Humidity will not go under 50%, even with 2 dehumidifiers, please help!!!

Yeah CO2 isn't even worth the trouble involved. Having to keep the same air in there is contrary to what's practical for indoor plant growth. You screw yourself up on humidity and heat, the two biggest things growers have to deal with. Plus you have to bring the CO2 in, unless you generate it somehow. All that for what, maybe 30% higher yield? Just make a 30% larger room and don't bother with the CO2, same result, lot fewer headaches.
 
Bakersfield said:
I use to grow in Seattle back in the 90's, in a cool dank basement.
I had to ventilate constantly to keep the rh in the upper 40% range.
If your ventilating 1000 sq ft I assume you are growing a lot of vegetation, especially if 4 dehueys can't handle the load.
I'd recommend more air exchanges to combat the high humidity. Drop the dehumidifiers and any co2 equipment you might be running and save yourself the headache.
Maybe install a a 12 inch 1700 cubic feet a minute inline fan for exhaust and a slightly smaller intake running 24/7. If that is not enough install another.
You'll save a ton of money not running 4 dehumidifiers.
Click to expand...
Bakersfield: Thanks for your advice. With the 3 exhaust fans I have running, its at 1500 cfm. Air intake is really through the cracks in the building. All dehuey's are exhausted also. I can't run the exhaust fans 24/7 because it drives the temp down below 65 once the lights are out. We are not running CO2 since we are exhausting everything. With 1500 CFM, it takes 7 minutes to exchange the air in here. But its just getting replaced by colder/wet air from outside (50 degrees and 90% humidity). Wish someone could turn the rain off.
 
BobCajun said:
Nobody can see that forum unless they're a member, because it's a bunch of self important UK dicks. And they ban anyone who criticizes the fact that they're one big advertisement rather than an actual discussion forum. Needless to say I got banned long ago, like I care. If the link is a google result you can see the page by viewing the cached version instead of the main link. That's how stupid they are. They think nobody can see their precious shitty forum.
Click to expand...
Ouch, I felt that one! I had a similar experience with uk420 forums. The UK blokes are numpties
 
dkfowler1972 said:
Bakersfield: Thanks for your advice. With the 3 exhaust fans I have running, its at 1500 cfm. Air intake is really through the cracks in the building. All dehuey's are exhausted also. I can't run the exhaust fans 24/7 because it drives the temp down below 65 once the lights are out. We are not running CO2 since we are exhausting everything. With 1500 CFM, it takes 7 minutes to exchange the air in here. But its just getting replaced by colder/wet air from outside (50 degrees and 90% humidity). Wish someone could turn the rain off.
Click to expand...
If your not running lights 24/7 there's no need to ventilate too long after lights out.

I have a few additional questions:
How do you heat the structure?
Have you checked your hygrometer out to see if it works correctly and or move it around in the room to check for inconsistencies in the readings?
Do you have a leaking roof with moldy wet walls or huge puddles of water on the floor from drainage or hydro unit?

Remember that warm indoor air can hold a bunch more moisture than cold wet air. So as your 45f outdoor air may be 80% rh, as it is warmed to to 80f it will drop to under 20% as shown in the graph below.
psc_01.gif
Depending on how tight the trailer is, I'd say you need an active air intake.
 
dkfowler1972 said:
Bakersfield: Thanks for your advice. With the 3 exhaust fans I have running, its at 1500 cfm. Air intake is really through the cracks in the building. All dehuey's are exhausted also. I can't run the exhaust fans 24/7 because it drives the temp down below 65 once the lights are out. We are not running CO2 since we are exhausting everything. With 1500 CFM, it takes 7 minutes to exchange the air in here. But its just getting replaced by colder/wet air from outside (50 degrees and 90% humidity). Wish someone could turn the rain off.
Click to expand...
the dehueys r exhausted?? that's the nice dry air u need,unless iam missing something
 
I find it helps to split the flowering into 2 chambers with one turning on when the other turns off. Much less temperature swings in the building. Also probably less humidity buildup. Plus less power going through your electrical system at one time, which is just a little dangerous and also suspicious if a person isn't in a legal state.
 
BobCajun said:
I find it helps to split the flowering into 2 chambers with one turning on when the other turns off. Much less temperature swings in the building. Also probably less humidity buildup. Plus less power going through your electrical system at one time, which is just a little dangerous and also suspicious if a person isn't in a legal state.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a great cost effective way to do it. Maybe you could also have a double out take system on timers to drag cold air through lights on room and then through dark room and out. Then reverse the system at other side of 12 hours so that each dark room gets fresh warm air at no real extra cost. But I guess that would be a pain to set up initially.
 
chemphlegm said:
why bother paying to dehumidify the air you are ducting out? Its doing nothing more than exhausting air out like a fan and mechanically sucking in air where ever it can get it.
Click to expand...
Yeah I mentioned that to him earlier. He's getting it sorted out.
 
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