Haven't bought it yet. Making sure everything is doableso you plan on running an extension cord to the outdoor condensor? Also what condensor model and type are you using?
I will have verify. Haven't bought it yet. I have a trusted relative that does commercial electric work and can add what I need for the unit I buy. I don't have a trusted relative for the refrigerant work on the split though.That looks like a 20 amp 240 volt receptacle. Are you sure thats gonna be enough for the AC unit? Usually they need more like 40 - 50 amps but they vary. Chances are you will need to run a new circuit for the AC.
I am not an electrician , I knew it was 220 but thought because it was double the size of the 20a 110v, that it was 40a, thanks for the info that could have been bad if the unit I get needs more than 20a. I need the smallest double split I can get. According to my area measurements I only need 10k btu for both spaces.I will have verify. Haven't bought it yet. I have a trusted relative that does commercial electric work and can add what I need for the unit I buy. I don't have a trusted relative for the refrigerant work on the split though.
Im a 10 year jman refrigeration mechanic. I rarely work on ductless splits because they are very reliable i avg 20 installs a year of single and multi head units. A properly installed system (properly flared or brazed) no issues. Ive had to change the odd contactor or board but by no means any more issues than any split system. The guys who tell you nothing but problems probably dont know how to fix or install properly if they do breakdown mitsubishi and carrier units have very knowledgable free tech support.wtf ?
if you read my message you will see i speak about models with premade connections
i say it again, these are not reliable, any guy working in HVAC will tell you
you want to use air conditionner ? learn the job or hire a real hvac guy to install PROPERLY your air conditionner
don't use supermarket AC with premade dudgeons connections in your grow room
maybe it is a good idea to start withI am not an electrician , I knew it was 220 but thought because it was double the size of the 20a 110v, that it was 40a, thanks for the info that could have been bad if the unit I get needs more than 20a. I need the smallest double split I can get. According to my area measurements I only need 10k btu for both spaces.
On the mini's the compressor is also variable speed. Normal split's the compressor is either on or off. So the mini's run more efficiently when it's cold.That being said, I've never used them on mini splits but I would assume the same principles apply.
i agree if he hasnt bought the unit yet has he calculated how many btus of cooling he will need. mini splits arent that tough to install either i did one at my place for the first time last summer it was fairly easy. i hired an electrician to connect it to the panel for me. if he doesnt want to hire an hvac guy to do the install might as well get one with precharged lines probably be less hassle for him.maybe it is a good idea to start with
the climate you are trying to cool in, and area
what amount of cooling you will need for the amount of lighting?
I think a full plan of the build you are thinking of will help everyone brainstorm with you to help you invest and plan the best we can
Already used 8 times. Just not year round. 600w hps with exhaust exiting out of space, 2nd space 400w MH with exhaust exiting space. All space is well insulated R15 and R30 with no insulation between space one and two. USDA Hardiness Zone of 7a,7b. Elevation aprox 1000feet.maybe it is a good idea to start with
the climate you are trying to cool in, and area
what amount of cooling you will need for the amount of lighting?
I think a full plan of the build you are thinking of will help everyone brainstorm with you to help you invest and plan the best we can
each space 8ftx4ftx8ft. 3ft square tables flood and drain, scrog on flowering side.Already used 8 times. Just not year round. 600w hps with exhaust exiting out of space, 2nd space 400w MH with exhaust exiting space. All space is well insulated R15 and R30 with no insulation between space one and two. USDA Hardiness Zone of 7a,7b. Elevation aprox 1000feet.
These are air cooled hoods? Are the rooms sealed? The intake and exhaust air form the hoods doesn't come from the rooms themselves right?Already used 8 times. Just not year round. 600w hps with exhaust exiting out of space, 2nd space 400w MH with exhaust exiting space. All space is well insulated R15 and R30 with no insulation between space one and two. USDA Hardiness Zone of 7a,7b. Elevation aprox 1000feet.
yes sealed. the air replacing the exhausted air enters through the leaks in the room from outside. I do have a portable ac/heater in the bloom side that works but it's too loud for my taste and doesn't do anything for the veg side when ambient temps get high. Also the whole building is completely shaded except for a few hours in the morning when the suns angle is low.These are air cooled hoods? Are the rooms sealed? The intake and exhaust air form the hoods doesn't come from the rooms themselves right?
missed part of what you said. the air from the room enters the hoods and exits outside. The flower side air is pulled through a carbon filter before passing through the hood, the veg side, air is pushed through and exited with no carbon filteryes sealed. the air replacing the exhausted air enters through the leaks in the room from outside. I do have a portable ac/heater in the bloom side that works but it's too loud for my taste and doesn't do anything for the veg side when ambient temps get high. Also the whole building is completely shaded except for a few hours in the morning when the suns angle is low.
They make low ambient kits down to 14F. Just have to mount 22" off grade by code. In MA anyways.The only real problem with most split AC units is they don't support low ambient temperatures. If it's gets lower than 60F outside the evaporator coil inside starts freezing into a block of ice. Sometimes you can install a freeze kit but it's not an energy efficient fix like the inverter style mini-splits have. On an inverter mini the power is converted to DC and back to AC to provide any frequency the unit wants in order to run the compressor and fans at variable speeds. When it's cold outside my mini's barely even run the compressor and the fans stop or barely turn on the outside unit.
So then it's not sealed?yes sealed. the air replacing the exhausted air enters through the leaks in the room from outside.
another timeIm a 10 year jman refrigeration mechanic. I rarely work on ductless splits because they are very reliable i avg 20 installs a year of single and multi head units. A properly installed system (properly flared or brazed) no issues. Ive had to change the odd contactor or board but by no means any more issues than any split system. The guys who tell you nothing but problems probably dont know how to fix or install properly if they do breakdown mitsubishi and carrier units have very knowledgable free tech support.
so negative room pressuremissed part of what you said. the air from the room enters the hoods and exits outside. The flower side air comes through a carbon filter before passing through the hood, the veg side, air is pulled through and exited with no carbon filter
yeah but it't kind of a balancing act. I already use mobile ac in flower room and exhaust out, with ac I can exhaust less. It works now but my veg room has no ac. I also supply CO2 during the hottest times in veg and all the time in flower and I know that it gets sucked out too but it works. I want a double split to cool both sides and help heat in winter, not use too much more elec and run quieter. With what I'm already doing I am getting satisfactory harvest.So then it's not sealed?
If you're pulling air from the grow room through the hoods and exhausting outside then the room is not sealed. Your AC air is going to get sucked through the hoods and exhausted correct?