Hydro Nutrients Reviews

mpdegn

mpdegn

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
It is pretty near the same nutrient formulation as the 2 Part formulations sold by GH, AN and Dutch Masters.

Combined with Micro the Grow formulation is:
N=700, P=100, K=900, Ca=500, Mg=0, S=200, B=20, Cu=0, Fe=10, Mn=0, Z=56.9, Mo=7.96

Combined with Micro the Bloom formulation is:
N=500, P=600, K=600, Ca=500, Mg=100, S=20, B=20, Cu=0, Fe=10, Mn=0, Z=56.9, Mo=7.96

Average with the exception of higher nitrogen for budding then Blooming, and for some reason a lack of the trace nutrients Manganese and Copper and strangely no Magnesiun in the veg formulation. I would add 100 grams of Magnesium to a 1 gallon bottle of a 100x concentrate of the Grow formula. IE 1 gram per diluted gallon of nutrients. The Molybdenum level is laso very high but it comes as a trace contaminant from one of their nutrients salts.

A deficiency of copper shows up as wilted and distorted foliage. I find it difficult to believe they left manganese out of their formulation. I have only one record on each of Holland Secret's formulations however none of their formulations show a presence of manganese. Manganese deficiency would apper as a dull grey appearance followed by yellowing of the newest leaves between the veins which usually stay green. If the price is good and your happy with its results I would simply just buy a small amount of Manganeses Sulfate on eBay. It would only require 1/4 ounce fora 1 gallon bottle of 100X concentrate fertilizer to obtain the recommended concentration of 5 ppm. One pound can be bought for $4 on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/Manganese-Sulfate-Powder-32-Mn-1-Pound-/270341419492?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ef19ab1e4

Lkely the only way to spped up the budding is to provide more lighting. There is not a lot of intense light beyond 3 or 4 feet below the light. A sativa's bracts do not swell up as large as an Indica or Afghani. The bracts are the pod that the seed normally grows within. The calayxes are just the hairs. The easiest way to tell just how close your plants are to harvest is to use a mahnify glass and look at the shape and color of the resins. If the resins beads are still white and swollen and upright it is to early for harvest. You actualy want a resin bead that looks sorta exhausted and more amber to brown in color.
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Thanks for all the useful info Fatman. If you had a donate button man, I'd definitely throw you some :P
Ok, I'm not at home right now to check the back of the bottles, but if there really is no Manganese in the formulation, I will consider buying some online. I wish there were smaller amounts. 1lb seems like a lot. Are there any local places I should check first? What about copper? Can I buy copper online as well?
I remember reading your Lucas formula from scratch thread and I was wondering where to buy all those ingredients. $7 per gallon of fert seems very affordable and at the same time you know that you have all the important ingredients.

I was most likely referring to the bracts then. I thought the hairs are called pistils and the bracts were the calyxes. Thanks for clarifying that. Some of the bracts are not covered with trichomes or resin at all which kinda concerns me. That much hair and no resin? You think this is some BS strain or just another late sativa? I'm using 400W HPS with a DWC system and you've seen my nutes. I have no explanation right now. I grew 2 indicas in the same reservoir and they turned out sooo good. At some places the plant is also growing seeds. I have found 3 seeds so far. This is a very confusing grow, I have to admit.

Thanks for your opinion man.
 
mpdegn

mpdegn

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry, didn't mean to write 1lb seems like a lot. For some reason I thought it said 10lbs, which would be a lot. Not 1lb though.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
What many call pistils are properly called Stigmas. These fuzzy liitle white Stigmas in their traditional peace sign V form are attached to a ovule contained in a small pod that is formed by Bracts. Bracts are modified leaves. These pods contain the sex ovules which typically are not seen. The ovules swell as if going through a false pregnacy if unfertilized. The bracts remain around them. I can only assume when a person says calyx they are referring to the whole pod comprised of the ovule, bracts and stigmas.

Calyxs or sepals is a term used by florists for the same type of modified leaf covering found over female sex glands on many ornamental flowers. It is not a term that is really proper to mj plants.
 
UrbanAerO

UrbanAerO

Active Member
house and garden Van de zwaan products, also use M.O.A.B(mother of all bloom), few botanicare products and superthrive. Had okay results this harvest(2lbs) with 1-1000w(liquid cooled on light mover) and 40 plants, but a root rot issue slowed our growth. I dont use hydroton on clones through flowering(just foam inserts from an EZ cloner), I have cut back the watering cycle dramatically and they seem strive/ grow much faster plus were not seeing the dark slimy/fragile roots anymore. I spend more money on electricity than nutrients by far(600$/mo), so how to get the most lbs/per light is more appealing than saving money on nutrients. I only have 60amps to work with so 3 1000watt lights with pumps/fans/ozone is about all I can run and still watch TV. someone needs to start a thread on how to "hot tap" utility and not get caught. Its actually pretty safe to do with the latest hot taps out.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
With an electric boill like thatyou must be in Europe. Here, it runs $84 to run a 1000 watt light 12 hours a day for 30 days. Counting all electricity it only cost $0.20 per gram for electricity on my sog grows including the veg and clone lighting etc. That is with air conditioning, dehumidifier, chiller for lights and growing nethodology is air atomized aeroponics. It is drain to waste with CO2. 6 weeks to bud Indicas to a medium amber state. Average 19 dry grams per plant. Total cost less than 40 cents per gram to include maintenance etc.
 
jberry

jberry

Well-Known Member
yea, by the end of the first week its up to .48 cents a kwh... sad i know... for around ten grand u can get a upgrade service and then its a flat fee of like 11 cents a kwh... but just getting the upgrade may raise some eyebrows.
 
JohnnyGreenthumb

JohnnyGreenthumb

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
Insane prices.

For an example:
Dutch Masters Liquid Light
ppm
Nitrogen 15
Phosphorus 110
Potassium 269
Magnesium 29
Calcium 5
Sulfur 38
Iron .30
Zinc .30


Ounces

Potassium Nitrate 4.8
Calcium Chloride .2
Iron Chelate .04
MonoPotassium Phosphate 6.9
Magnesium Sulfate 3.9
Zinc Sulfate .017

Volume of Stock Solutions 1
Dilution Rate 100

Total Fertilizer Salt Weight 16.01 ounces

Nice, you pay $46 for a liter of a product that costs them less than a 27 cents for the fertilizer salts it contains (IE all 4.285 ounces of it). High retail cost for the salt ingrediants about $5 for a full gallon. That means including shipping the cost would be about $4 per liter for you to produce.

Yepper, nothing like the mj specific nutrient manafacturers rapeing growers. Sad.
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LOL not really I drop $350 for all my bloom enhancers,ect actually that seem pretty nice since you will still yield 1.5 to 1.75 lbs per 1000w INDICA dominate
I hear DM GOLD is some good stuff and the yellow bottle Bloom (ausi advanced horticulture or something like that,know this grower who love the stuff.all these are not cheap like GH or Fox and you will not receive the same outcome either
 
JohnnyGreenthumb

JohnnyGreenthumb

Well-Known Member
Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur avg $300 to $350(flowering)WORTH EVERY $$$$$$$$
I have used DM advance,GH"blah",fox farms"ok stuff"never much over 1 lb per 1000w.

IMG01419-20100513-1046.jpg
Week 5
pic of half room
2 gallon pots 4' to 5' tall
IMG01571-20100519-1732.jpgIMG01572-20100519-1732.jpgIMG01573-20100519-1736.jpgView attachment 947902IMG01522-20100518-1122.jpg
LOL I forgot the last photo the bottle is being held up by the lower buds
 
JohnnyGreenthumb

JohnnyGreenthumb

Well-Known Member
OH YEAH last but not least everyone,everyone
good ol unsulfered blackstrap molasses I use 30ml(two large spoon fulls of sugar) per 5 gallon or 16 or 18.something liters
 
H

hyerollin

Member
i am using house and garden root excell, top booster, multi zyme, bud xl, aqua flakes AnB, magic green, shootig powder the cost is $700 per harvest i am a first time grower i have a ebb n gro system wit 90 pots, should i use molasis? ay input would be great! anyone used H&G and compared ?
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
UrbanAerO said:
Ill definetely check out the lucas formula, good info and I agree with you about AN, money hungry scamers, but with my garden I dont really have time or know where to aquire these ingredients. How does House and garden compare to AN? I have never seen a comparison with House and Garden and AN, Im sure all the AN comparisons are biased. I spend a lot of money on nutrients and would like to know which one is better. Untill I get to making my own I will buy nutrients, I may be a sucker but I still am able to afford it.
I love the roots Closetgrowth, already have my mothers in 5 gallon buckets with hydroton and holes dilled to drain, but hydroton is such a waste of money!
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I would recommend that you simply replace the hydroton with rubber mulch. they are non absorbent so there is no CEC (nutrient scavenging) done by the rubber as done my hydroton. You have to understand d though that the rubber being non absorbent is like using gravel or another non absorbent material, meaning it requires watering more frequently. It is about as close to aero as you can get without actually being aero. Well actually Bio-balls would be closer but a lot more expensive.

When buying rubber mulch buy the reddish brown mulch as it is waste plastic that is cud bed. The black mulch is usually recycled old tires so there is always some oil, gasoline etc that leach from the rubber. This does not effect the plants except that an oil sheen on the waters surface lowers DO in the reservoir unless you aerate your reservoir.
 
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