Hydroponic system desinfection while plants in res

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
What he uses and how he uses it is incredibly simple, though. Premix the coco with fert when filling his pots, feed by top dressing a couple times throughout the entire grow. Hand water with PH'd RO when it needs it. Here I am on hydro trying to make sure my watering schedule is on point, check the PH and PPM daily, dump and refill the res weekly, following a nutrient schedule and adjusting as necessary. There's a lot more room for error that detracts from the best-case hydro payoff.
As far as terp profile, I haven't really been able to experience that... I've tried what I grew and I've tried a lot of strains on the Colorado recreational market and I haven't really liked anything store bought as much as what I've grown myself. And that might just be my own bias.
Nice reply sir! Friendly and not confrontational!

It is more what he use's and how he use's it.....You confirmed that... His media of choice is part of that "how"....

I find soil as my best resulting method in so much as growing for potentials...
The difference between Hydro and soil?
Maybe some more exposure can make it easier to find the diff......

"I" and longtime friends. Can taste the diff right off the bat.....experience?
FOR SURE I have had some exceptional hydro though! No doubt about it!

Peace on..
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
It's been used in kitchens, households, water purification tablets, etc for decades.

You do what you want, I'll do the same.
The water purification tabs?
Totally different form of chlorine..

It's chlorine Dioxide

Chlorine from a home bleach bottle is Sodium hypochlorite..

Now any "color safe bleach" - the actual active ingredient? Hydrogen peroxide!!!!
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
I never liked bleach for sanitizing hydro equipment. Time in contact, residue and difficulty rinsing it away....

Get 40% Hydrogen peroxide from a beauty supply store and mix a 10 or 12 % solution and use that....Kills everything , and I mean everything....on contact! USE GLOVES at all times when handling the 40% and the sanitizing 10-12%!

4 parts water to 1 part 40% makes 10%
Ever since running a living reservoir, I've always bleached my systems between runs. It rinses away just fine, and I always have beautiful, white root balls.

It always takes a few days for my PH to stabilize, so I don't add bennies during this time. Any residual bleach(if any) that is in the system is more than welcome.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
The water purification tabs?
Totally different form of chlorine..

It's chlorine Dioxide

Chlorine from a home bleach bottle is Sodium hypochlorite..

Now any "color safe bleach" - the actual active ingredient? Hydrogen peroxide!!!!
I was in the military for 6 years. Those big potable water carriers... Yea, that's bleach in there, few gallons actually. I know because I put it in there. Straight out of the jug. I'm not saying it's the best, but when you need drinkable water from an almost undrinkable source... Bleach works. Unless you prefer malaria or dysentery lol.

I have always used bleach to clean my stuff and even poured it in a few wells to get rid of ecoli after floods.

The only argument for this would be if somebody used straight bleach and it wasn't diluted. Anybody who uses bleach knows to dilute it, so I see no harm.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
No, it does not rise period. If it's constantly rising you have an issue.

I don't know what in the hell you are talking about, but I was taught much differently apparently.

If ppm rises, add water. If ppm drops, add feed. If ppm stays the same, empty, refill, and rinse roots. It's THAT simple.

As politely as I can. I'll say you might read up on hydro growing..a bit more detailed
Plants add waste back to the water. That causes the ppm to rise.
That is NOT a good indicator to "add water"....
Following the old school 33% add back method would likely give you better results....Faster too...

Not that what you do is "wrong"!
Just less effective in the long run.

In reality. When I ran hydro....I hated ppm metering. We were taught to always use volumetric measuring of in-going nutrients..
You simply varied the % used to match the plants needs..

The 33% method is very conductive to "pushing" your plants.....But the key is in the amounts used in the 100% solution and not the 33%...That's just your add back %..

I'm sure your method works for you...!!!
But the 33% is less work overall, in the long run.....At least it always was for me... I tested a shit ton of Products for different makers back then too.... Some where pretty nasty as far as charting and results went... Others were spot on...

I still say that your not understanding how the plant and the res are intertwined and how they react to each other....
Every book on hydro will mention somewhere that the ppm's will always rise in growing a healthy plant It's part of why you dump and refill.

Ok? peace dude...
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Ever since running a living reservoir, I've always bleached my systems between runs. It rinses away just fine, and I always have beautiful, white root balls.

It always takes a few days for my PH to stabilize, so I don't add bennies during this time. Any residual bleach(if any) that is in the system is more than welcome.

Nicely answered John!

I'll respect your choice..
I never like the extended contact times...One of those always in a hurry guys....would heat the sanitizing solutions up to about 150 to make the time only a 1 minute contact time. Then was mindfully torn on if it was enough and let it sit for 2..... I just went to a 10% HP after that.... For some reason I thought I had less issues....

Choices eh?

Peace on...
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
As politely as I can. I'll say you might read up on hydro growing..a bit more detailed
Plants add waste back to the water. That causes the ppm to rise.
That is NOT a good indicator to "add water"....
Following the old school 33% add back method would likely give you better results....Faster too...

Not that what you do is "wrong"!
Just less effective in the long run.

In reality. When I ran hydro....I hated ppm metering. We were taught to always use volumetric measuring of in-going nutrients..
You simply varied the % used to match the plants needs..

The 33% method is very conductive to "pushing" your plants.....But the key is in the amounts used in the 100% solution and not the 33%...That's just your add back %..

I'm sure your method works for you...!!!
But the 33% is less work overall, in the long run.....At least it always was for me... I tested a shit ton of Products for different makers back then too.... Some where pretty nasty as far as charting and results went... Others were spot on...

I still say that your not understanding how the plant and the res are intertwined and how they react to each other....
Every book on hydro will mention somewhere that the ppm's will always rise in growing a healthy plant It's part of why you dump and refill.

Ok? peace dude...
I agreed with you that waste makes it rise, didn't dispute that. Feeding makes it drop... It's using up the nutes.

Maybe I don't understand your percentages because I don't understand how you could tell what percentage of what nute is used up, and I find that ineffective and conducive to buildup or other issues, but guess it boils down to how we were taught. That's why I rely on ph AND ppm.

For the record, I have no quarrel with you other than different methodology, and you took the crack thing as an insult which is something I say to everyone (live about 20 miles away from a meth town), so there was no offense meant and no way you could tell. Context doesn't carry well over the Internet.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I was in the military for 6 years. Those big potable water carriers... Yea, that's bleach in there, few gallons actually. I know because I put it in there. Straight out of the jug. I'm not saying it's the best, but when you need drinkable water from an almost undrinkable source... Bleach works. Unless you prefer malaria or dysentery lol.

I have always used bleach to clean my stuff and even poured it in a few wells to get rid of ecoli after floods.

The only argument for this would be if somebody used straight bleach and it wasn't diluted. Anybody who uses bleach knows to dilute it, so I see no harm.

Thanks for dialing back the personal stuff!

I'm dot trying to attack your opinions. I'm adding my own.. Sometimes I"m rather direct and to the point. I do not intend to insult.... Apology of you felt insulted too.

Oh, read your last post above before posting this...Thank you!
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
Thanks for dialing back the personal stuff!

I'm dot trying to attack your opinions. I'm adding my own.. Sometimes I"m rather direct and to the point. I do not intend to insult.... Apology of you felt insulted too.

Oh, read your last post above before posting this...Thank you!
I'm not trying to personal attack either. I blame the fucking internet lol.

It's just different methodology. Like curing, defoliating, training, etc.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Maybe I don't understand your percentages because I don't understand how you could tell what percentage of what nute is used up, and I find that ineffective and conducive to buildup or other issues, but guess it boils down to how we were taught. That's why I rely on ph AND ppm.

The 33% add back method or "rule" is a general starting point that covers the bulk of strains out there. It is effective but, if you see an issue...you adjust... The 100% solution. Then the adjustment carries over to the add back solution..
BUT
Yes you do some adjusting for strain needs. Like Mg hog's and such.
Mostly for advanced growers that are "pushing" or specific result supplementing. That generally needs some basic nute adjustment....
In volumetric feeding in hydro... I generally measured my nutrients by weight....
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
Nicely answered John!

I'll respect your choice..
I never like the extended contact times...One of those always in a hurry guys....would heat the sanitizing solutions up to about 150 to make the time only a 1 minute contact time. Then was mindfully torn on if it was enough and let it sit for 2..... I just went to a 10% HP after that.... For some reason I thought I had less issues....

Choices eh?

Peace on...
After I chop a flowering room, I empty the rez, refill with just enough tap water to get the buckets to their fill point, then add bleach. I let the system run over night, rinse it out, clean the room, then drop the teens into the buckets. It's pretty easy, and I can get the rooms up and running again within a day of finishing up trimming.

I change tubing once a year, and that's more extensive. Scrubbing each and every part(elbows, tees, pumps, brain buckets) by hand, then dropping them in a bucket of water and bleach. Rinse and reassemble.
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
The 33% add back method or "rule" is a general starting point that covers the bulk of strains out there. It is effective but, if you see an issue...you adjust... The 100% solution. Then the adjustment carries over to the add back solution..
BUT
Yes you do some adjusting for strain needs. Like Mg hog's and such.
Mostly for advanced growers that are "pushing" or specific result supplementing. That generally needs some basic nute adjustment....
In volumetric feeding in hydro... I generally measured my nutrients by weight....
I suppose that makes a little more sense, though I still don't have the full grasp.

I was taught that when ppm drops, you top off with the same feed you out in, based upon the ph swing.

When ppm rises, you top off with water. Principle being, you add salts and salt doesn't evaporate, only water does, so concentration of salt/waste is higher. This also shows in ph.

When ppm is unaffected, time to rinse, clean and refill because it's mostly waste or on the verge of a salt buildup, though buildup is dependent upon nutes used. Hence, the residue in the bottom of the res and even sometimes on the roots. Ph is usually unaffected as well at the onset.

I usually rinse, clean and refill when I notice ppm starting to drop less and less.

I have never encountered an instance where ppm going higher than what you started out with to be a good thing. Perhaps that's just the OCD of something is not right for me. Perhaps that would be fine. If ppm goes higher than what I start with I'm still rinsing, cleaning and refilling, whether good or bad. I consider the roots to be sitting in their own piss and shit at that point.

Also, never had a root rot issue that way... Ever.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
when i was running my rdwc, i'd use Star San sanitizer after a grow was over. self foaming so it gets in all the nooks and crannies.

had it from my homebrewing days.

edit: and is a no rinse too.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
I never liked bleach for sanitizing hydro equipment. Time in contact, residue and difficulty rinsing it away....

Get 40% Hydrogen peroxide from a beauty supply store and mix a 10 or 12 % solution and use that....Kills everything , and I mean everything....on contact! USE GLOVES at all times when handling the 40% and the sanitizing 10-12%!

4 parts water to 1 part 40% makes 10%
Thanks for advice man and thanks for jumping in as ALWAYS truly apreciate your every word! Today is holiday so could not get 40% h2o2 so I added bleach 0.05 ml per litre. lets see what will happen tomorrow. I hope tomorrow I'll get a hand of the strong h2o2 solution. How much of a 10% stuff should use?

Here are pictures of roots BEFORE the haizenbergs recipe...









and here is day after I added this molasses spore "tee"





I fill like a cheap bustard... Tried to save a little buck on this overpriced Great white and ended up with root rot again :(((
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
No possitive effect of clorox seen in 24 hours, should I add more? I'll get some h2o2 on monday so there is still time for root rot to dance... ;(
 

Nabbers

Well-Known Member
when i was running my rdwc, i'd use Star San sanitizer after a grow was over. self foaming so it gets in all the nooks and crannies.

had it from my homebrewing days.

edit: and is a no rinse too.
:shock:

That's genius. I never put that 2 and 2 together.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
No really, FUCK the clorex no effect at all looks like made things even worse. (8 drops per gallon)
H2o2 instead that I got today (30%) made roots white in about a minute!!! (teaspoon per gallon)
 

3rd Monkey

Well-Known Member
No really, FUCK the clorex no effect at all looks like made things even worse. (8 drops per gallon)
H2o2 instead that I got today (30%) made roots white in about a minute!!! (teaspoon per gallon)
Wait, what? You added Clorox to the res?

That's not what we were saying. Clean and sterilize everything with Clorox, not put it in the res.

Only EVER peroxide in your res, NEVER Clorox.

Sorry for the misinterpretation.
 

AngryMexican

Active Member
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