Hydroponics

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Hi Potroast. I would like to put six plants in my drip irrigation system using only Hydroton with 1 1000 wt. light. The pots are two gallon bato buckets. Can you suggest a feeding schedule that I could use for this scenario throughout the plants' lives? An archetype would be extremely helpful.

Thank you in advance.

There are too many variables to just say do this. If the environmental factors are controlled you would do well with a 800-1000ppm veg mix, and a 1200-1500ppm flowering mix. Temperature extremes will change this, as will the addition of CO2.

The easiest way to start is to follow the label instructions/website formula, and use less, say one-half or two-thirds, and see how your plants react.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

gvega187

Well-Known Member
I'm a little confused, are you saying you leave your plugs in standing water? I would not suggest that, I only use rockwool, it should always be wet, but it should never be left in water. I've never had grimey roots. Is that 50 percent H2O2? What else are you putting in your soup?

Yes, I've always used SuperThrive. It's mostly vitamin B, but it's so concentrated that it's cheap and easy to use. For rooting solution I use 20 drops/gallon, about 1ml. Then for veg and the first 3 weeks of flowering I use 2 drops/gallon.

HTH :mrgreen:
Yes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw?

Has anyone EVER seen a good thread on rapid rooter cloning? It must royally suck for some reason which is beyond explaination.

no, 35% h2o2...where are you buying 50% and is it worth it for some reason? Thanks a lot pot and anyone else who may reply. :eyesmoke:
 

sleeper05

Well-Known Member
Hey roast, I did a switch from my 400w hps to a 1000w hps thinking that all will be better. Well it has only brought about problems with heat. I have read a few different posts on how to keep root rot from forming in my rez. There isn't a hydro store in my town so the closest place to getting them is 2 hours away. I'm not using any hydro zone or whatever the stuff is called that I've heard will help to stop root rot. I've raised the light up up and up trying to stop so much heat from warming my rez temps. Lately I've been adding little containers with frozen blocks of ice to try and keep the temps down but I'm sure they melt away within half an hour and could also be shocking the plants. I've looked into chillers *wow they're expensive* and the possibility of just getting a deep freeze or even an a/c for the house but they seem like it's alot of money to spend on the set up for now. We have just started to get into our hot season too.... 30 d. celcius is becoming a regular day. On my next water change... which would be tomorrow if all goes well I will lower nute concentrations, right now i'm at about 800 ppm. Oh... I also bought a little fan to blow air across the rez 24/7.

Don't suppose you have any other suggestions for tryin to keep these babies alive?
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
Yes the bottom of the coco starter plugs are left in standing water. For how long is uncertain, but they do dry ALOT quicker than RW. All i ever hear about RW is that it never dries out....would someone like to tell me something good about rw?

Has anyone EVER seen a good thread on rapid rooter cloning? It must royally suck for some reason which is beyond explaination.

no, 35% h2o2...where are you buying 50% and is it worth it for some reason? Thanks a lot pot and anyone else who may reply. :eyesmoke:
I used the Rapid Rooters, its posted in my first journal. You are correct, they will dry out faster then the rockwool, I found I had to water them every few days. Properly prepared rockwool cubes are excellent for clones because they hold a lot of moisture and as long as you don't overwater them, give you a good anchoring point, they seem to get bigger stems. VV
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Hey roast, I did a switch from my 400w hps to a 1000w hps thinking that all will be better. Well it has only brought about problems with heat. I have read a few different posts on how to keep root rot from forming in my rez. There isn't a hydro store in my town so the closest place to getting them is 2 hours away. I'm not using any hydro zone or whatever the stuff is called that I've heard will help to stop root rot. I've raised the light up up and up trying to stop so much heat from warming my rez temps. Lately I've been adding little containers with frozen blocks of ice to try and keep the temps down but I'm sure they melt away within half an hour and could also be shocking the plants. I've looked into chillers *wow they're expensive* and the possibility of just getting a deep freeze or even an a/c for the house but they seem like it's alot of money to spend on the set up for now. We have just started to get into our hot season too.... 30 d. celcius is becoming a regular day. On my next water change... which would be tomorrow if all goes well I will lower nute concentrations, right now i'm at about 800 ppm. Oh... I also bought a little fan to blow air across the rez 24/7.

Don't suppose you have any other suggestions for tryin to keep these babies alive?

With any HID lamp you've got to exhaust the heat from the room. Fix that first, and your res temp problem will go away. In the meantime, maybe move your res out of the growroom.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

kermitthepermit

Active Member
Hey im growing in an nft system and i want to keep my plants small.
How long should i veg before switchin to 12/12, i was thinking wait till they develop
the first set of leaves then switch,will it work? Im growing barneys G13haze and Blue Cheese
 

gvega187

Well-Known Member
I used the Rapid Rooters, its posted in my first journal. You are correct, they will dry out faster then the rockwool, I found I had to water them every few days. Properly prepared rockwool cubes are excellent for clones because they hold a lot of moisture and as long as you don't overwater them, give you a good anchoring point, they seem to get bigger stems. VV
hey thanks a lot VV. I am working on the theory that you leave about 3/16th water level in the tray for the first 4-5 days before roots potentially pop. Then, soak the cubes periodically from that point on to avoid rotting the roots off in standing water. The rapid rooter tray method has worked in the past for me, but varies greatly. Anywhere from 60-95% success. I think it would be best for me to master this technique before trying the possibly superior RW method.

Thanks for the reply and anyone else with rapid rooter input/experience please comment.
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
I have used Rapid Rooters, Jiffy Pellets, rock wool, dirt and no medium at all. all of them work. When I first started the Rapid Rooters were a little bigger than they are now. I point this out because I saw one of AL's responses about the rockwool cubes, He tried the one inch cubes and says they are a little to small, he uses the 40mm size with better success. VV
 

Emperor2008

Well-Known Member
I have a question..I will be flowering in a 3x3 flood table...I want to harvest 2 or 3 plants every couple weeks or something like that..I am reading where you need to flush with water for a week before harvest and I am wondering what about the plants that are not being harvested...How can I do this or is it really necessary?..Thanks...Peace:blsmoke:
 

gvega187

Well-Known Member
just dont flush them...it is not at all necessary.

hot topic as to whether taste is affected or not.
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Hey im growing in an nft system and i want to keep my plants small.
How long should i veg before switchin to 12/12, i was thinking wait till they develop
the first set of leaves then switch,will it work? Im growing barneys G13haze and Blue Cheese
Most nft systems won't support a tall plant, so you must keep them small. When to switch to 12/12 will depend on the amount of light, and the strain. The general rule is to figure that your plant will triple in height after the switch, so if you want an 18 inch plant, switch the lights when they are 6 inches.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
I have a question..I will be flowering in a 3x3 flood table...I want to harvest 2 or 3 plants every couple weeks or something like that..I am reading where you need to flush with water for a week before harvest and I am wondering what about the plants that are not being harvested...How can I do this or is it really necessary?..Thanks...Peace:blsmoke:
You need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.

Flushing of the medium is necessary when you use an aggressive chemical load of nutes, and your medium holds a lot of water. I use rockwool slabs, and I need to flush them regularly.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
You may be able to, but why would you want to? They are inexpensive, and you want to give your plant a nice place to live.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

ratman

Active Member
You need to have a different reservoir for each stage of flowering. I give them 3 different soup mixes during flowering, and then the flush. You'll also find that the plants at different heights will limit the placement of your lamp over the plants.

Flushing of the medium is necessary when you use an aggressive chemical load of nutes, and your medium holds a lot of water. I use rockwool slabs, and I need to flush them regularly.

HTH :mrgreen:
pot roast please share your soup recipes for the three stages of flowering you are using. thx, rm
 

Emperor2008

Well-Known Member
I just installed a 800cfm squirrell cage fan in the flowering room and the temps are still around 82-84 degrees..I also have a 16"circulating wall mount fan and have only tested the light but have no flowering plants in there yet...that is with the light on of course..anyway is this temp going to be a problem??:blsmoke:
 

VictorVIcious

Well-Known Member
I just installed a 800cfm squirrell cage fan in the flowering room and the temps are still around 82-84 degrees..I also have a 16"circulating wall mount fan and have only tested the light but have no flowering plants in there yet...that is with the light on of course..anyway is this temp going to be a problem??:blsmoke:
Yes.
The size of your fan doesn't matter unless we know the size of the room, for that size of fan, doesn't really matter, I will go out on a limb here and guess that you don't have your light air cooled?? a 150cfm fan will do that job for ya if you have to chain 2-1000watt lights together. If your 800cfm squirrel cage fan isn't doing it, there is something wrong. Squirrel cage fans sometimes have adjustments that can be made that change the size of the pulley so the belt will fit tighter, some have a way to move the motor and tighten the belt?? Maybe yours isn't operating at its maximum efficiency?? In any case, those temps won't kill your plants, you will not get good growth and god help you if you find you have a humidity problem with those temps. The exception to that would be co2 addition in later flowering, then 82-84 might be a little low. VV:eyesmoke:
 

DrkArt456

Active Member
Hey everyone I'm new to the forum and just started my first grow a week ago after a lot of planning and researching. Here is a pic of one of my plants. I have nine growing right now and they are all white widow and all about 4 inches tall. The only thing I'm worried about is that they all seem to have weak stems. Idk if this is a problem this early or not. Let me know what you think.
 

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potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
pot roast please share your soup recipes for the three stages of flowering you are using. thx, rm

Easily said, it's about 800-100ppm in the first 3 weeks, and 1200-1400ppm in the second 3 weeks, and 800ppm in the last 3. I add a PK booster starting on Day 35.

HTH :mrgreen:
 
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