Hi,
I just got a new timer board and need help understanding how it works and how to get it working.
I will be running 4 x 1000w. Any help is appreciated.
Heres the board
You say that is not a DIY thing, claiming that it was purchase from a hydroponic supply store, however it does appears to be designed and constructed by someone who is a DIY. None the less, there are a few NEC codes violations I see in its construction. This is not to say that your timer board will not work, nor am I saying that purchasing a "brand name" manufactured lighting controller from a hydroponic supply store will resolve the code violations...as I have seen that most brand name lighting controllers on the market do lack having any proper overcurrent protection (fuse or circuit breaker) to the lighting controller output receptacles, which lead me to believe that someone in the industry is trying to side step the NEC compliance by using the clause "to be installed by a license electrician". So then what should the DIY do? Cheat the NEC compliance by making the lighting controller "plug and play"? You say "most likely will be getting a electrician"...now I'm curious what an electrician has to say and is willing to do?
Heres how the contactor is wired. The top cord that exits the junction box leads to a female end. The bottom cord that exits the junction box leads to a male end. What are these cords for?
Needless for me to say anything more, as you have already correctly figured it out when you stated that "These are used to act as a trigger cable for my high heat shut off. I think these two wires will sandwich the high heat shut off as seen below."
Heres how the timer is wired
The wiring scheme shown in the photo appears to be the same wiring scheme use in wiring an Intermatic T103 timer. Whoever wired the three wires twisted together to the far right terminal failed to used the correct color. Using the wrong color serve only to confuse people and tells me that the person was either too lazy or too cheap to buy red wire.
I don't really understand the labelling here. Clarification would be awesome.
Starting from the far left, it easy enough to understand the three pair of receptacles are wired to 240 volts on your timer, to be turned on and off by the timer switches. I would assume that the last pair of receptacles on the right would be wired to 120 volts (as indicated by the "120V" label), but I do question if the "CON" label is correct, because in the photo of timer wiring it appears to be wired to a switched terminal on the timer.
I want to incorporate this cruise temp as a emergency high heat shut off. How should I do this?
Verify that your cruise temp is configured for heating. It is my understanding that cruise temp come pre-wired from the factory for cooling, but it may have been reconfigured for heating if it was included with the timer board.
So, how do I go about hooking this up?