I got the Bayer too. But after looking into it more I decided against it. It seems that the bee dying may be related to imid.
But I was able to take out my root aphids by mechanical means.
I took the pot with soil and covered the top with ground cloth (the kind used to keep weeds from popping up).
A string around the top keeps the cloth on and holds the soil from being washed away....AND it doesn't allow the aphids easy access back to the roots.
Now the top is covered. I put the pot into a 28 gallon tub.
I put fertilizer solution into the tub and recycle the water from the tub onto the top of the pot.
What water can will drain down into the pot through the ground cloth.
The rest of the water runs off the top and is now getting oxygenated as it splashes into the reservoir tub.
This makes a slow moving layer of water that moves down the roots with enough oxygen for the roots but not enough for the aphids to breathe.
Sometimes, I let the roots dry a bit but with my plants using two gallons a day I can't do it too long or the salts will concentrate.
I think this is when the aphids "wake up" for another cycle.
On the top of the ground cloth I put a bowl with apple cider vinegar.
This will attract them and I am still getting very small ones but essentially they are gone.
On top of all this I put a plastic sheet to keep the splash contained and to minimize humidity from the splashing water.
I noticed in my disaster crop that died either of root aphids or my attempts to kill them that the root aphids lived above the water line.
So, I think they have no scuba gear and can't take being drowned.
I think they can persist even now though should I change tactics or let my guard down for a second.
They are born ready to produce more without sex.
As they are getting smaller and smaller I think each generation is having less and less to invest in the next generation.
If you are going to use the IMID on clones that is one thing but on a well developed plant I would not consider a systemic poison in my KILLER plants.
The thinking is that if you get them full of poison at a small size by the time they grow up the % is so low as to be negligible.
Submerging the plant leaves and all is a good way to get full coverage. If you miss one root aphid you will have the back again.
Depending on the size of your plant you may want to pruchase a 55 gallon drum and take the top off, fill with water and use it to dunk your babies in.
**********The root aphid you really want to kill is the last one.***************
Until it is gone you will be at risk.
Root aphids are the new terror for MJ.
I talked to a bug man who raises nematodes and other beneficial insects and he said just last Saturday that they didn't take out the root aphids.
I would like to hear otherwise or if XYZ nematodes work well.
I would much rather use something that has no chance of hurting me or my plants.
I am growing my plants under LED lights and they are doing very well now.
These LED lights really put out the effective light with much less heat.
The growth is so thick it is like a jungle bush.
There is essentially no light around the base of the plant which makes it hard to see the water level.
I hope they slow their upward growth though.
Two weeks in from turning the light cycle down and they are about 1.5 to 2 feet taller.
Not sure if this is just the flower cycle kicking in or they are starting to capture more of the light in the room.
I was skeptical of the LED's and some are junk but the ones I am using are impressive.
I just worked up a sweat to get them just a bit higher in the closet they are in because my plants are growing too fast and will soon be too close.
Note to self...put the lights up as high as you want them to start with or it will be a two shower day.
With the LED's I have the beams are made to well mixed at 2 feet or more from the light.
And I should have put them to the very top of the room.
Being farther away is not so bad because the light is made to go in a single direction.
With a HPS or MH the light goes out all around and you need reflectors.
The farther away you go the more the light drops off.
So, if and when you go to LED you have to rethink your strategy for optimizing them compated to HPS and MH lights.
I think in a year or two HPS and MH lights will be much less used for indoor growing.
The initial cost of the LEDs will be dropping and even now I would have a hard time except in winter to go back to HPS.
Then I can use the waste heat from my HPS lights but in the summer I really like the limited heat they put out.
I put two lights (about 500 watts total) into a 3 x 4 foot room which is overkill.
The growth is impressive, especaially after the inital battle with root aphids.
In the interest of open and honest communication I am also sell these lights and I really believe in them after testing them out.
I don't want to abuse my posting ability so I won't mention the brand, prices or any specifics.
There are some cheap and low quality lights on the market and they do suck.
I am sure there are some competitors that are also good so don't count LED lights out.
