I need electrical help!!! Grow room possibly fucked my Dryer up lol... Pics inside

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, so I made a thread awhile ago where I re-connected some old wires in my house to make some outlets work for my room. After I re-connected these wires, same night my dryer stopped heating. The outlets and washer/dryer are on the same fuse or breaker, so is it possible there was a voltage overload that tripped the heating sensor in the dryer or somethin? or the fuse in the dryer.. Thing is everything still works back there, the outlets work fine, the washer works fine, the dryer turns on just doesnt get hot.. I even got a replacement one (free off craigslist) and it doesnt get hot either.. now it is VERY possible the lady just fucked me over and gave me a fucked up dryer.. but its also possible that I maybe fucked somethin up myself I think.. Id love some opinions..

So heres the pics to explain a bit..

These outlets were used in this back closet to grow before by a prior tenant, everything was all set up, but they got busted and im assuming the landlord dissconected the wire cuz when I moved in the outlets didnt work. The dryer did get hot tho lol.. and the blue cord in the pic goes up into the attic 12386599_1029577080417261_1292325940_n (1).jpg

So I went up into the attic and followed the cord over to here.. this lil box
12367028_1029576720417297_2040138108_n.jpg

I connected the blue cord to those wires, red to the reds, black to the blacks, white to the whites and ground to the grounds.

The outlets all started working. But shortly thereafter the dryer stopped heating.. Any thoughts?
 

caveman117

Well-Known Member
did you follow the wires to see whatyou were tapping iinto by tying the blue cord into that junction? if what you tied into isnt 120 than you may want to disconnect immediatiely. I ay that because most washer/dryers run on 220/240, and those outlets in the pic are120.

your waswasher/dryer are probably, on their own 240/20 amp. amd should be easy to differentiate between the smaller 120 stuff. so just follow your cords and find out what's what.
 

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
pretty sure the washer and dryer run up to that same box.
The breaker that I turned off before re-connecting the blue cord controls the outlets as well as the washer dryer and back room, so i would assume its wired to the same shit?
 

Igotthe6

Well-Known Member
What the guy did was split his 240 into 2 120s.I couldn't tell you why your heating element isn't working.I would assume you hooked something up wrong
 

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
What the guy did was split his 240 into 2 120s.I couldn't tell you why your heating element isn't working.I would assume you hooked something up wrong
Okay so reconnecting that blue romex was safe? like as far as voltage goes, im not overloading anything by hooking that back up? I mean everything works, except the dryer doesnt heat, so for the most part I think its hooked up right, and if there was an overload than everything on that breaker wouldnt even power up right? Thats not the case tho..cuz shit still works just the dryer doesnt heat.. I mean a wire could have easily slipped out tho.. Could a loose wire cause the dryer to work but not heat?
 

2ANONYMOUS

Well-Known Member
you need to find find where the 240 line goes there is no dam weight they would run it to a junction like that no fucking way normally there will be a seperate breaker box for the dryer
 

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
you need to find find where the 240 line goes there is no dam weight they would run it to a junction like that no fucking way normally there will be a seperate breaker box for the dryer
Okay well thats comforting, so what your saying is theres no way that connecting that blue romex to the junction would have fucked with the dryer then?
 

fandango

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, so I made a thread awhile ago where I re-connected some old wires in my house to make some outlets work for my room. After I re-connected these wires, same night my dryer stopped heating. The outlets and washer/dryer are on the same fuse or breaker, so is it possible there was a voltage overload that tripped the heating sensor in the dryer or somethin? or the fuse in the dryer.. Thing is everything still works back there, the outlets work fine, the washer works fine, the dryer turns on just doesnt get hot.. I even got a replacement one (free off craigslist) and it doesnt get hot either.. now it is VERY possible the lady just fucked me over and gave me a fucked up dryer.. but its also possible that I maybe fucked somethin up myself I think.. Id love some opinions..

So heres the pics to explain a bit..

These outlets were used in this back closet to grow before by a prior tenant, everything was all set up, but they got busted and im assuming the landlord dissconected the wire cuz when I moved in the outlets didnt work. The dryer did get hot tho lol.. and the blue cord in the pic goes up into the attic View attachment 3580616

So I went up into the attic and followed the cord over to here.. this lil box
View attachment 3580617

I connected the blue cord to those wires, red to the reds, black to the blacks, white to the whites and ground to the grounds.

The outlets all started working. But shortly thereafter the dryer stopped heating.. Any thoughts?

Looks like the #10 30amp white romex is the original dryer wire...the j-box and blue wire seem to be added to the house.

The dryer has a breaker in the main panel...disconnect at breaker and replace breaker.
 

koda7225

Well-Known Member
Im thinking its all wired incorrectly....undo it, get your dryer fixed and have someone hook it up correctly.....i cant really tell from the pictures but based on the wiring and outlets (would need to see whats runing where in the junction box by the extra outlets the blue cord is running to to be able to really tell you.) Ill bet something is mixed up in the junction box by the outlets.
 

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
Im thinking its all wired incorrectly....undo it, get your dryer fixed and have someone hook it up correctly.....i cant really tell from the pictures but based on the wiring and outlets (would need to see whats runing where in the junction box by the extra outlets the blue cord is running to to be able to really tell you.) Ill bet something is mixed up in the junction box by the outlets.
If something is messed up in the junction box by the outlets tho then it wouldnt affect the dryer because that junction box only houses the 3 outlets, the blue romex powers that junction box. The blue cord then runs into the attic where it was previously dis-connected and I re-connected it to the box up there.. so I think if anything the mix up would be in the attic junction box, no? because that is the only box that had other wires running back down thru the house, 2 white ones, and the dryer is powered by a white one too..
 

2ANONYMOUS

Well-Known Member
Most all-electric clothes dryers use 240 volts to power their heating element and usually 120 volts for turning the drum and blowing the air through. So sometimes when it seems as though the heating element must be burned out, it is actually one of the dryer's two fuses or half of its double breaker that is blown, tripped, or having connection trouble. Don't automatically get a new dryer.

Another question I get about the dryer is the type of receptacle and cord that is appropriate. In general, an existing 3-hole dryer receptacle should not be replaced with 4-hole dryer receptacle because there will not usually be a fourth (ground) wire in that box. A 3-prong dryer cord should be installed from the dryer for an existing 3-hole receptacle and a 4-prong dryer cord for an existing 4-hole receptacle. In the dryer a metal strap at the neutral (center) terminal should be connected to the frame of the dryer when the cord is 3-prong and should be disconnected from the frame or from neutral for a 4-prong cord (whose green 4th wire connects to the frame).

Recently household dryers have become available which run 26 amps along the circuit, rather than the usual 21 or 22. This may cause the 30-amp breaker which did fine with a previous dryer to trip for one of these new ones (after a few minutes of operation). True, a 30-amp breaker should be able to handle the load, but any imperfection in the contacts or wire connection of the breaker, or even its closeness to other warm breakers, will produce more breaker-tripping heat, due to the higher current being run through it.
 

William Shatter

Well-Known Member
can you tell me how you would have gone about reconnecting the blue romex Koda? If you were to do something so stupid, i know lol.. I mean it clearly was connected there before, so If I did something wrong while re-connecting it, I would love to know the proper way.. Im not really wanting to call an electrician as I have a room full of pot plants haha, so if at all possible i'd like to figure it out myself, although it was that same thinking that got me into this mess haha
 

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
110 is one hot (black) and one neutral (white) which is referenced to ground.220 uses 2 110 hot wires( typically black and red)and no neutral.Both systems will utilize a ground for safety.Dryer elements require 220v at 110 the amperage draw of the element would be too excessive.Honestly if you dont know your way around a volt meter,you may want to do some research before messing with it.
 

koda7225

Well-Known Member
If something is messed up in the junction box by the outlets tho then it wouldnt affect the dryer because that junction box only houses the 3 outlets, the blue romex powers that junction box. The blue cord then runs into the attic where it was previously dis-connected and I re-connected it to the box up there.. so I think if anything the mix up would be in the attic junction box, no? because that is the only box that had other wires running back down thru the house, 2 white ones, and the dryer is powered by a white one too..
No with electrical if it is messed up anywhere in the circut the whole circut is messed up.
 
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