I need help setting up the legendary stinkbud grow

G

garddd

Member
Hello!
So, im new growing indoors, and i need some help setting up the grow tents. First, I am going to leave this link here so that you understand me better, because my explanation would leave details out. https://www.rollitup.org/t/harvest-a-pound-every-three-weeks.116859/
Well, now that we have entered the context, we are going to go by parts.

- I would need to know which would be better for the flowering grow tent, 3 or 2 LED lights for a 7'x7'x8', which could change to
a little less. In total I would like them to be equivalent to +2000w HPS. The equipment that goes inside the grow cabinet, which, being relatively large, is not clear to me, and in the future I would like to add CO2.

- In the grow tent where I will put the mothers, I don't know whether to put the clones in vegetation there too and buy another big grow tent or have them separated. I am thinking of an LED equivalent to a 250w HPS for the clones, and it is not clear to me how much I need for the mothers, I would like to have about 10 genetics.

- Going into the nutrients, I have seen that both Floraflex and Athena have very good results, what do you think? Do you know of another one that gives better results?I know this is going to be trial and error until I find the correct dosage.

(2000-3000$ is my budget)

At the moment I have no more doubts. I'll try to make a thread of my grow, to see if the apprentice can overcome the master StinkBud!

Thank you very much to everyone who tries to help me and I hope that seeing my grow will serve as compensation for the help:-D:-D:-D:weed::weed:
 
Tracker

Tracker

Well-Known Member
I previously built several systems based on the stinkbud thread. It is very productive. I have a couple of concerns, since you say this will be your first indoor...

Do you ever have power outages?
This system is not forgiving if you lose power. The watering cycle has a short period. The plants wilt quickly if there is a loss of power. If you lose a pump, timer goes out, or get clogged spray lines, but the lights are still on, the plants wilt within an hour. All of those problems happened in my system, and it'll make you want to cry when you've been out for a while and come back to wilted plants.

You want many different varieties?
You should do only one type per rail since you'll have to harvest all plants in the rail and clean out the rail. I only ran one type in my systems, so I got very familiar with how it behaved, growth structure, what nute mix and light intensity it liked. if you're running different varieties side by side, you'll find that some grow too tall and some grow too wide, so you'll have to figure out optimum spacing. Not all types like the same nutrient inputs. If you have heavy feeders and finicky/light feeders on the same reservoir, you'll have to adjust nutes so you don't fry the light feeder, but the heavy feeder will not be at it's best possible.

As for the space you have to work with...
However you set it up, you need to be able to access all the plants. So if you use lights that have a 4x4 to 5x5 footprint, you'll need to allow space on opposite sides to reach into the canopy and get inside the rails if you need to. Using the basic design idea of the rails, you can easily build any size to suit your space and lights.

I don't mean to discourage your ambition, but if you've never grown indoor hydro, I suggest you start with one light (640w to 800w LED) in a 4x4 or 5x5. Build the fence post system, cloner, and early veg (two tote stack) system. Try it out for a few cycles to see how to dial in the workflow before you spend and build out the larger system.

If you want to get lights and larger tent to get more growing right away, I suggest to start in soil or coco. Those are much more forgiving. If it turns out that you really like the stinkbud fence post system after testing on the smaller scale, you can always build it out for pretty low cost.

Good luck! Peace :peace:
 
G

garddd

Member
Tracker said:
I previously built several systems based on the stinkbud thread. It is very productive. I have a couple of concerns, since you say this will be your first indoor...

Do you ever have power outages?
This system is not forgiving if you lose power. The watering cycle has a short period. The plants wilt quickly if there is a loss of power. If you lose a pump, timer goes out, or get clogged spray lines, but the lights are still on, the plants wilt within an hour. All of those problems happened in my system, and it'll make you want to cry when you've been out for a while and come back to wilted plants.

You want many different varieties?
You should do only one type per rail since you'll have to harvest all plants in the rail and clean out the rail. I only ran one type in my systems, so I got very familiar with how it behaved, growth structure, what nute mix and light intensity it liked. if you're running different varieties side by side, you'll find that some grow too tall and some grow too wide, so you'll have to figure out optimum spacing. Not all types like the same nutrient inputs. If you have heavy feeders and finicky/light feeders on the same reservoir, you'll have to adjust nutes so you don't fry the light feeder, but the heavy feeder will not be at it's best possible.

As for the space you have to work with...
However you set it up, you need to be able to access all the plants. So if you use lights that have a 4x4 to 5x5 footprint, you'll need to allow space on opposite sides to reach into the canopy and get inside the rails if you need to. Using the basic design idea of the rails, you can easily build any size to suit your space and lights.

I don't mean to discourage your ambition, but if you've never grown indoor hydro, I suggest you start with one light (640w to 800w LED) in a 4x4 or 5x5. Build the fence post system, cloner, and early veg (two tote stack) system. Try it out for a few cycles to see how to dial in the workflow before you spend and build out the larger system.

If you want to get lights and larger tent to get more growing right away, I suggest to start in soil or coco. Those are much more forgiving. If it turns out that you really like the stinkbud fence post system after testing on the smaller scale, you can always build it out for pretty low cost.

Good luck! Peace :peace:
Click to expand...
Do you ever have power outages?

Very few times, but I already had it in mind, at first I was thinking of buying a PandaAero, but just before doing so I came across the StinkBud thread. Yes, when I buy everything I will also have to buy spare parts. And no, as long as the grow is active I won't go anywhere.

As for the space you have to work with...

I'm going to follow your advice and start with one, and if I see that things are going well, I'll add two more. I have been reading different posts, blogs and websites for a long time and I know that air is more important than light, so, could anyone who reads this recommend me a good complete system? :)

Thank you very much Tracker for taking a piece of your valuable time to answer me!
 
Oldreefer

Oldreefer

Well-Known Member
Just pull the trigger and force feed yourself by planting something. 20 yrs ago, I snuck a few seeds into my GFs winter flower room...week later I HAD to do something. Been a bunch of upgrades since so expect it.
 
G

garddd

Member
Oldreefer said:
Just pull the trigger and force feed yourself by planting something. 20 yrs ago, I snuck a few seeds into my GFs winter flower room...week later I HAD to do something. Been a bunch of upgrades since so expect it.
Click to expand...
Soon I will begin to germinate for the outdoor season, about 6 photoperiods and another 8 autoflowering:hump:
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
I got some random tips for ya:

Go with the bigger sized 5"x 5" vinyl post sleeves for your rails.
1645190656518.png

Ecoplus inline pumps are pretty reliable.
1645190294902.png1645193070752.png


Nearpow digital cycle timers work good. Down to the second. Program 43 seconds on 3 minutes off, etc. Built in battery keeps the time and settings.
1645189916611.png

Big oversized 2" + BANJO Y-strainer w/ reducer fittings is the way to go. More surface area on the mesh = go longer between cleanings, less chance of clogging up. They make awesome cam-locks too, for quick disconnecting of your rails/sprayers/manifolds, etc..
1645192629991.png1645193179866.png


A UPS battery backup system will save your grow. Run the pumps for days.
1645190503013.png


Redundancy is good with LPA/NFT systems. Double up on all the pumps and sprays bars per rail for ultimate security.





Oh, you know.. just some gold plated vinyl wrap to make your aero system rails really bling.
1645192141374.png
 
Drop That Sound

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Oh I almost forgot. You just need the one tent to keep the mothers/veg.

If you learn to Air Layer your clones, you can do away with anything else to do with propagation, or any additional areas needed. No taking cuttings or fooling around with varying success.

Leave the clones hooked right to the mother plant until they root out, and then cut them away. They even veg still while the roots form. Fool proof with best success rate of all techniques. Can take massive clones that are 10-20 times bigger than normal cuttings, to plop into your golden stinkbud system.

Learn the ancient technique and clone like a king.
 
Mellow old School

Mellow old School

Well-Known Member
NFT systems like the Aeroflo are nice in my opinion, even nicer when you build them yourself as mentioned here.

Since I didnt back in the hydro days had the option of using square tubes I opted for drainage pipes, eg. 110mm also possible to go bigger eg. 160 mm...
 
G

garddd

Member
I am thinking of placing a 2'x4' LED for each aeroponic system, do you think it would give better results? Any recommended lights?
 
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