I used systemic pesticide , should I throw it away ?

I emailed to syngenta technical support for this shit , this is question and answer :
Message

Hello , I have a question about product ACTARA (thiamethoxam) - I'm a tobacco gardener and grow for a personal supplier , I have used ACTARA 4 month ago on plants and now I want to harvest them , just wonder is this safe to harvest these tobaccos as they will combust by end user ? Is 4 month enough time to have safe harvest of tobacco plant ? I mean the amount of pesticide residual on plants .

answer :
James,


The Actara pre-harvest interval on tobacco is 14 days so it can be applied up to 14 days from harvest.


Thank you,

and again question :

The average age of tobacco in smokes is 5 years , but our is about 1 month , mean within 1 month leaves will cured and used by end user ( combust ) , I'm worried if this make any change in pesticide residual between our business and usual tobacco business when tobacco leaves stay usually about 5 years before used by end user , we sell fresh tobacco leaves ( 1 month old ) , this cause any difference ?

(waiting for answer of this )

sorry for the tail of lies about tobacco

baxbax said:

we sell fresh tobacco leaves ( 1 month old )

Click to expand...

If I didn't know this is done for native religious purposes, this would sound shady as fuck.
In my experience, the driving force of pesticide elimination is primarily the sun's rays, maybe tobacco's broad leaves can eliminate it quicker....

well, according to them, after two weeks, there should be a negligible amount. i'm not sure i trust them, but there are tests they have to do to determine those things. so it should be as safe as anything else that says that....if you trust them.
i try to stick with spinosad, which is very effective when you follow the instructions. it has a low toxicity to humans, a short half life, and while it does penetrate the surfaces of plants, its not considered systemic. if you quit using it a week before flower, there should be no trace of it in your finished product.

Miyagismokes said:

If I didn't know this is done for native religious purposes, this would sound shady as fuck.
In my experience, the driving force of pesticide elimination is primarily the sun's rays, maybe tobacco's broad leaves can eliminate it quicker....

Click to expand...

or perhaps tobacco and weed absorb toxins and heavy metals differently, so whats safe on tobacco, may not be on weed

Roger A. Shrubber said:

well, according to them, after two weeks, there should be a negligible amount. i'm not sure i trust them, but there are tests they have to do to determine those things. so it should be as safe as anything else that says that....if you trust them.
i try to stick with spinosad, which is very effective when you follow the instructions. it has a low toxicity to humans, a short half life, and while it does penetrate the surfaces of plants, its not considered systemic. if you quit using it a week before flower, there should be no trace of it in your finished product.

Click to expand...

And it's cheap, too.

yeah, i'm actually buying the smaller bottle of concentrate, i got a quart two years ago, and am just now needing more. it's supposed to still be good, but i'd rather spend a dollar or two more for the pint and know it's fresh, than save a couple of bucks on a quart and end up using stale product for the last three or four months i have it

Roger A. Shrubber said:

yeah, i'm actually buying the smaller bottle of concentrate, i got a quart two years ago, and am just now needing more. it's supposed to still be good, but i'd rather spend a dollar or two more for the pint and know it's fresh, than save a couple of bucks on a quart and end up using stale product for the last three or four months i have it

Click to expand...

Shit, I'd be buying one quart every two weeks...
I go through a lot of spray.

of the concentrate? a tablespoon makes a quart spray bottle full, you must grow a lot more plants at one time than me.

Roger A. Shrubber said:

well, according to them, after two weeks, there should be a negligible amount. i'm not sure i trust them, but there are tests they have to do to determine those things. so it should be as safe as anything else that says that....if you trust them.
i try to stick with spinosad, which is very effective when you follow the instructions. it has a low toxicity to humans, a short half life, and while it does penetrate the surfaces of plants, its not considered systemic. if you quit using it a week before flower, there should be no trace of it in your finished product.

Click to expand...

I use spinosad myself. It can be used as a systemic.

I rarely use pesticides. I definitely don't use anything poisonous.

The health of the plant plays a big role in pest control. Healthy plants don't attract as many pest.

Silica helps as well. It thickens plant tissue and makes it harder for to eat.

Look into companion plants that repel pest.

I do this with everything from cannabis to vegetables.

If you need something stronger you can make your own nicotine pesticide with organic tobacco. Works great.

I also make homemade insecticidal soap. Grate a 1/4 of a naptha laundry bar into a quart of water and heat until the soil is melted. That's the concentrate. Mix a tablespoon to each qaurt of water for a spray.

I will use neem on vegetables or cannabis in veg. I won't use it on cannabis in flower. I ruined a plant by doing that at mid flower. It tasted like ass.

one of the things i like about spinosad is that if you spray it, it will penetrate surfaces well enough to kill leaf miners, but breaks down so quickly it's still not considered a systemic. if you have a problem with root aphids or russet mites, you can apply it as a soil drench, and it does act as a systemic, but it still breaks down very quickly, so as long as you haven't gone into flower yet, i would feel pretty safe about saying that plant isn't going to be contaminated by harvest time.

they are eggs of some pests I found under of my untreated seedling 2 weeks life , if I don't remove them they will grow and eat leaves , do you know what they are ? the total batch is about 0.5 , I could not remove them without damaging leave , it's now dry , but they should be so sticky

baxbax said:

they are eggs of some pests I found under of my untreated seedling 2 weeks life , if I don't remove them they will grow and eat leaves , do you know what they are ? the total batch is about 0.5 , I could not remove them without damaging leave , it's now dry , but they should be so sticky

Click to expand...

Probably some type of moth.
Seems to check out on an image search as well.

these are butterfly eggs, moth eggs look similar. if you see them get the hell rid of them, because they'll hatch a load of hungry caterpillars.....not a good thing

Roger A. Shrubber said:

of the concentrate? a tablespoon makes a quart spray bottle full, you must grow a lot more plants at one time than me.

Click to expand...

Takes me three gallons of mix to spray... 6oz a go of Organocide.

try the captain jack's dead bug brew. not sure if its as strong as the organocide, but it's one tablespoon per quart, 4 per gallon, or a little over a cup per 5 gallon bucket

they are eggs of shield bugs ? I lost desire to eat food after seeing this type of eggs ouuugh

baxbax said:

they are eggs of shield bugs ? I lost desire to eat food after seeing this type of eggs ouuugh

Click to expand...

it's possible, i don't know how to differentiate between different species' eggs. i just play it safe and get rid of any eggs i see on my plant. the only exception is praying mantis egg cases, i learned what they look like, and leave them alone if i see them.

Didn't read whole thread but if the genetics were special I would take a clone, then kill it after taking another from it. Basically just take a clone of a clone of a clone until the poison was no longer something I worried about.

as you can see, quite different