ICE WAX (bubble hash) with Matt Rize

TerpCylia said:

watch the video... the bags go into the spin dry side not the water side. I have a complete 5gal washer set up with what you're talking about. and I do shake the bag.



I have the standard set up... 5gal Boldtbags washer... Some 25u 90u 190u in a bucket with the bottom cut out over another tub to drain into.

I'm familiar with all of the above techniques.... the bags don't drain fast enough period, I'm pretty sure we all end up waiting for the level to get low enough to actually shake it comfortably. Even when pouring the 5 gallon washer into the bags the 25u and 90u always slow down the process. I can shake a single 25u bag with a couple gallons of water but really that only makes since if you're running a single washer... and it still ends up taking longer than I would like to drain. I want to run more material at the same quality and faster. I think that speeding up the draining process would be a great way of minimizing the time the trichomes spend in the solution as well as the time it take to run material.

I'm not trying to be a punk ass or disrespectful just trying to refine my already good technique that I have learned from all of the masters on this forum and other platforms. Thanks for all effort you guys put into this thread and others as well as the quick responses.

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Not sure If I understand this correctly but are you pouring multiple washes through a single set of bags at the same time? If so that would be the culprit of slow draining.

Have you considered using FrenchyCannoli style bags?



I just really thinking buying a unit like that washer/spin dryer is a bit excessive, but I'm just a personal producer. If it works for what you're trying to achieve power to ya!

I have that exact same machine

hyroot said:

if you use a 45 you wont get much in a 25. all the micro plant matter ends up in the 25. so most people use it for edibles or rosin. I highly doubt 25u is full melt. maybe 3/4 melt with the 73 and 45 heads in there. even frenchy who only uses 3 bags doesn't use a 25u. he uses 160, 73, 45.

i make ice wax not hash. with rosin i make rosin from flowers. the 190, 160, and the 25 bag if i get anythingg.
material is at 4 min a wash. I place the work bag in the freezer while I clean the trichomes with a pump sprayer.

no i have not done that with washer. It just creates an extra step. I see it more as increasing work because you have to fiddle with and spin the washer with a bag in it while it drains. when i can manually drain it faster.


btw if you have the boldt mesh bags , you don't have a 25u

they're 45, 73, 160

https://boldtbags.com/product/frenchy-full-mesh-5-gallon-bags/

I use bubblebags not boldbags.


you are missing out on some good shit not using all the bags

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First off I want to thank you for your quick responses and lending your wealth of knowledge and experience. I'm thinking you're definitely right about the 25u-45u being mostly small plant matter. I haven't bought a Boldtbags set yet so I do indeed have the 25u, 90u, and 190u bags. I will probably be buying the Frenchy Fullmesh or just the standard set from Boldtbags soon though since I went cheap on my first set.

D_Urbmon said:

Not sure If I understand this correctly but are you pouring multiple washes through a single set of bags at the same time? If so that would be the culprit of slow draining.

Have you considered using FrenchyCannoli style bags?



I just really thinking buying a unit like that washer/spin dryer is a bit excessive, but I'm just a personal producer. If it works for what you're trying to achieve power to ya!

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I always keep the runs separate so that's not really an issue for slowing the bags but I am trying to maximize the amount of material I can run while keeping the quality at the top of my priorities. However I usually see the best product in the first and/or second wash and for the last two I wouldn't mind just doing a continuous wash to prevent the build of of chlorophyll in the water that the material is sitting in, which should result in better product in the end.

I will be trying out your suggestion of using all of the bags and see how that goes with draining each one and go from there.

I'm interested in your opinion on Boldtbags vs Bubblebags. Good/bad on both would be nice. Also I am looking to process a lot of material regularly so streamlining this is key. This is mainly for a rosin final product so using all of the bags doesn't seem necessary but I will be experimenting along the way.

Thanks again!

R&RHashman said:

I have that exact same machine

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Are you talking about the wackywilly's or the boldtbags washer? If you have the willy's one have you tried the method shown in the video?

wackywillys and yes. will do so again.

R&RHashman said:

wackywillys and yes. will do so again.

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Does this work as well as it looks? How much material are you able to process and how fast? What kind of difference in quality are you seeing?

if you are doing it by hand then this is a 100% faster. I cant remember how much we did but it was a cpl lbs and it took about 1.5 hrs to wash the trim and harvest the bags as far a quality I am not sure as it was the first time we used it.

Sorry for asking a question that's already been answered but I couldn't find the exact page number where Matt talked about the difference in freezing the wet trim for at least 2 days before running it through and the cured dry trim for at least 24 hours.. and making sure you let the wet trim soak in the machine for a decent amount of time before your first run? 5-10 minutes? Or longer than that? And do you re soak it longer for the second run ?

Lets talk about lab testing now that some peer reviewed research has been done in California.

BHO and hash were tested. 1/3 of the BHO failed for PGRs and pesticides. None of the hash failed. Make what you will of the facts.

The Emerald Cup also revealed some crucial information this year before the cover up. About 1/3 of the hash/rosin entries failed, many for spinosad, but also mold and other pesticides.

Uploaded is the entire research paper on concentrates. And many screen shots of failed Emerald Cup entires, some of which were posted as fails, then were changed to pass.

No pesticides in the hash group, probably some mold tho!

Some melt

Gallchobhar said:

Sorry for asking a question that's already been answered but I couldn't find the exact page number where Matt talked about the difference in freezing the wet trim for at least 2 days before running it through and the cured dry trim for at least 24 hours.. and making sure you let the wet trim soak in the machine for a decent amount of time before your first run? 5-10 minutes? Or longer than that? And do you re soak it longer for the second run ?

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Soak until the material, trim or nugs, are not frozen, feel with your hand. Frozen material shreds making green hash. Second wash should be at the right temp unless u refroze the material

Thanks Matt. I'm having some trouble dialing in my ice and water ratio I know Frenchy prefers less ice for less breaking but I know Nikka T likes to load his machine with ice and ive found better results with more ice actually. Also I pre freeze my water on my first two runs, will that also affect my temp being where it needs to be? Would it be bad to start my first run with room temp water then my next one or two with freezing cold water to ensure temp stays the same? Also do you prefer freezing trim over leaving it fresh? Just because I know frenchy also doesn't like to freeze his because of the cell walls bursting and allowing more potential chlorophyll and plant material ? Thanks again

Matt Rize said:

No pesticides in the hash group, probably some mold tho! View attachment 3583046

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"Most hash processing uses large quantities of water which could potentially wash away pesticides which are water soluble while the non-water soluble cannabinoids remain behind."
Like I said before there is far less chance of concentrating anything that is on the surface of the plant when you are washing it with copious amounts of water and only keeping what is trapped behind the lipid by layer.

could you make those text pics a lil bigger, theyre hard to read. @Matt Rize

greenghost420 said:

could you make those text pics a lil bigger, theyre hard to read. @Matt Rize

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PDF: https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jts/40/6/40_797/_pdf

who changed the fail to pass?

if you dont use any pgr or pesticides, should there be any worrys?

greenghost420 said:

who changed the fail to pass?

if you dont use any pgr or pesticides, should there be any worrys?

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I'm not sure what you're referring to in the first question...

If you don't use those chemicals then you shouldn't worry about them in your product but you will probably need to monitor how much mold and other natural contaminants you will be exposed to as there are some Mycotoxins that are harmful to human consumption. This study did not mention Mycotoxins at all it only focused on pesticides and fungicides.

Gallchobhar said:

Thanks Matt. I'm having some trouble dialing in my ice and water ratio I know Frenchy prefers less ice for less breaking but I know Nikka T likes to load his machine with ice and ive found better results with more ice actually. Also I pre freeze my water on my first two runs, will that also affect my temp being where it needs to be? Would it be bad to start my first run with room temp water then my next one or two with freezing cold water to ensure temp stays the same? Also do you prefer freezing trim over leaving it fresh? Just because I know frenchy also doesn't like to freeze his because of the cell walls bursting and allowing more potential chlorophyll and plant material ? Thanks again

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IMO less ice is better. I used to run more ice. But you need a washer with a soft or delicate setting with more ice. Being gentle is the key to quality.

I use way more water than ice. Just make sure the water is around 35 degrees and your'e fine. Just don't let it get over 40 degrees.

Make sure your ambient temp is 60 degrees or below.

This pic was taken 3 weeks after I made it. The last batch I made from my garden

TerpCylia said:

"Most hash processing uses large quantities of water which could potentially wash away pesticides which are water soluble while the non-water soluble cannabinoids remain behind."
Like I said before there is far less chance of concentrating anything that is on the surface of the plant when you are washing it with copious amounts of water and only keeping what is trapped behind the lipid by layer.

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Not really. Pesticides don't just rest on the surface. They get absorbed into the plant material and the trichome heads. So the pesticides will still be present.

The most failures were for microbial being mostly spinosad. Which a lot of growers use as a pesticide. Even subcool uses it during veg.