im pulling my hair out

so I have some barneys blue cheese growing. I currently have t5s over them until I can buy some 600watts hps lights. they are on a 24/7 light cycle. I'm using fox farm soil and in week 3 of veg. I've been using a liquid ph tester to balance it. I'm going to get a proper ph tester soon. I've been watering about every three to four days. I've been trying to figure out my problem for the pat two weeks and haven't felt like I've came to the right answer. it seems like there are endless possibilities. I'm thinking boron, mag, and or calcium, maybe ph lockout. the problem started with yellow/rust spots on the leaves. the new growth appears fine, its mainly older growth. newer stems near top of plant appear redish in color. there is some twisting and distorting of the leaves.

it's time to transplant

make sure whatever soil you put it in, has a good buffering value. I find FFOF doesn't buffer long enough and i see problems late flower. For this you gotta be ready to hit it with dolomite lime. I would mix it in prior to planting, but instead i use happy frog cause they use dolomite and oyster shell instead of just oyster shell like ffof.

I think its the soil. They start off ok but as the plant is needing more nutes the soil is useless, salt build up and ph issues. When you repot usegood soil from the garden shop it will make a big difference. eg

there root bound and have eaten up every last drop of trace nutrients and needs room to spread its roots out... thats what happens when they grow.. seriously ,put it in there final pot like a 3-5 gallon pot so they can get nice and healthy INSTEAD of adding a bunch of stuff to a plant in a tiny pot.. you won't need to add much of anything after transplanting.. good luck and KEEP ON GROWIN...

I'm sure a transplant wouldn't hurt, but I think they look dry, and possible heat issues too. They need fed now too, the soil nutes are gone.

oldsmobiler said:

so I have some barneys blue cheese growing. I currently have t5s over them until I can buy some 600watts hps lights. they are on a 24/7 light cycle. I'm using fox farm soil and in week 3 of veg. I've been using a liquid ph tester to balance it. I'm going to get a proper ph tester soon. I've been watering about every three to four days. I've been trying to figure out my problem for the pat two weeks and haven't felt like I've came to the right answer. it seems like there are endless possibilities. I'm thinking boron, mag, and or calcium, maybe ph lockout. the problem started with yellow/rust spots on the leaves. the new growth appears fine, its mainly older growth. newer stems near top of plant appear redish in color. there is some twisting and distorting of the leaves.

Click to expand...

OK Friend, so I've been TRYING to stay out of these threads but you are SO CLOSE to perfection that I have to say something.

I've been growing high times award winning material for 30 years now and one can take that or leave it, but it's a fact.

Do NOT waste you money on further tools like a ph tester or further accouterments like this supplement or that supplement. You are already RIGHT THERE.

Your ONLY issue is that you're keeping them in beer cups PERIOD.

Please ignore everything else.

I have used every mix I could make or find on the market and I'm back to straight Fox farms out of the bag.

This is an overview of my regular garden.

This is Chem 4 tested at 22%




My award winning "Duh"



And my namesake "Demosthenes Rainbow / Urkle"



So here's the deal friend.

Ignore everything else, you do NOT need ph meters and supplements and anything else except a final size pot.

I would advise 5 gallon (you can do 3 plants with one $13 bag of Fox Farms) or as in my case I use 7 gallon and collect 6 ounces per plant.

Plant from beer cups to final pot and veg them out.

Keep it simple friend, you are trying to do way too much.

You are on the right track as far as watering them, I only water when the container is light, doesn't matter if it's 3 days or 3 weeks, I water by need not by schedule.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and stop trying so hard. Just up plant them, IGNORE PH, IGNORE EC and PPM meters, it's ALL a scam.

NEVER add ph up or ph down unless you know you have a problem out the gate, otherwise the plant requires the drift through the ph table in order to uptake different nutes at different phases.

If you adjust to a specific window, then you will only uptake whatever uptakes in that window.

Repot your babies in 5 gallons and then do not water for 3 weeks. they will not start to wilt until runners have been sent to the edge of the pot and all available water has been consumed in pot.

Then when you water the plant will double it's size in 5 days. I GUARANTEE.

As far as nutrients go, yes I'm sure you are experiencing salt buildup in the beer cup. Think about it.

Otherwise...we can get into line ups if you want but I'm really done preaching to people who really don't want to hear it so if you respond in a positive fashion I will move forward with you, if not then best of luck growing.

Demosthenes

PS here are babies in beer cups and then again 2 weeks later in veg.





Final product 60 days later. No PH meter, no E meter. Just the basics.



Best of luck grower.

.

Yea def time to transplant. I just killed a white widow in 2 gal pot because I didn't transplant in time. It's weird, in rockwool with synthetics I can keep a plant happy that's bound for weeks before it gets real pissed, now that I'm back in soil the thresh hold is far smaller. Gotta stay on top of it now or plants get real pissed. I could have saved the plant but she went through a good amount of stress so I figured I'd put her to sleep lol.

this pic is like what was mentioned above if you transplant on time and have a good quality soil you won't need to feed much because the soil takes care of it. I only used roots organic soil and og tea to get it to this stage, now it's in its finishing pot with tga supersoil so cruise control has been initiated lol. It hasn't hit the hot soil yet as it was transplanted two days ago.

Effendi said:

OK Friend, so I've been TRYING to stay out of these threads but you are SO CLOSE to perfection that I have to say something.

I've been growing high times award winning material for 30 years now and one can take that or leave it, but it's a fact.

Do NOT waste you money on further tools like a ph tester or further accouterments like this supplement or that supplement. You are already RIGHT THERE.

Your ONLY issue is that you're keeping them in beer cups PERIOD.

Please ignore everything else.

I have used every mix I could make or find on the market and I'm back to straight Fox farms out of the bag.

This is an overview of my regular garden.

This is Chem 4 tested at 22%

My award winning "Duh"

And my namesake "Demosthenes Rainbow / Urkle"

So here's the deal friend.

Ignore everything else, you do NOT need ph meters and supplements and anything else except a final size pot.

I would advise 5 gallon (you can do 3 plants with one $13 bag of Fox Farms) or as in my case I use 7 gallon and collect 6 ounces per plant.

Plant from beer cups to final pot and veg them out.

Keep it simple friend, you are trying to do way too much.

You are on the right track as far as watering them, I only water when the container is light, doesn't matter if it's 3 days or 3 weeks, I water by need not by schedule.

Do yourself a HUGE favor and stop trying so hard. Just up plant them, IGNORE PH, IGNORE EC and PPM meters, it's ALL a scam.

NEVER add ph up or ph down unless you know you have a problem out the gate, otherwise the plant requires the drift through the ph table in order to uptake different nutes at different phases.

If you adjust to a specific window, then you will only uptake whatever uptakes in that window.

Repot your babies in 5 gallons and then do not water for 3 weeks. they will not start to wilt until runners have been sent to the edge of the pot and all available water has been consumed in pot.

Then when you water the plant will double it's size in 5 days. I GUARANTEE.

As far as nutrients go, yes I'm sure you are experiencing salt buildup in the beer cup. Think about it.

Otherwise...we can get into line ups if you want but I'm really done preaching to people who really don't want to hear it so if you respond in a positive fashion I will move forward with you, if not then best of luck growing.

Demosthenes

PS here are babies in beer cups and then again 2 weeks later in veg.

Final product 60 days later. No PH meter, no E meter. Just the basics.

Best of luck grower.

.

Click to expand...

Good, but not that good

Orlandocb said:

Good, but not that good

Click to expand...

lol....yea probably but it pays the bills.

I figure someday when I grow up, I'll learn to grow as well as you do.

Happy Holidays.

.

Orlandocb said:

Good, but not that good

Click to expand...

Yeah, I just think it was a super arrogant post. He said to ignore everyone else' advice but his own but everyone else basically said the same thing as our award winning friend here: it's time to transplant.

Any tool that makes work easier is a good thing. That's what tools are for.

this problem (aka the yellow and rust spots) started showing up a few days into the they're first leaves growing. I haven't really done too much other than spray a revive with a ratio of 1-0-0 after I noticed the spots. I'm doing the transplant later tonight, I didn't want to shock them and screw them up more or anyrhing really until I figured this out. after I sprayed the revive on them they seemed to bouce back fine butbjust within the past day or twoive noticed its the new growth that looks good but the older leaves start to get the spots and then half the leaf is crispy and dead. so wwhat's the consensous? transplant and they'll be ok, transplant and give them a light feeding, or what I've come up with is a calcium and or p dose and transplant. I watered them a day ago so they still have a little moisture. I go by weight to water them. also some leaves look healthy but theyre twisted which makes me think boron def. that's causing the spotting because its not getting calcium. but to be truthful I have no idea what's wrong and I'm shittin my pants that I'm goin to lose them all.

point is they had the spots when they were young. its been a persistant problem. also I know they need to be transplanted. the problem existed before transplanting came into the picture.

sikkinixx said:

Yeah, I just think it was a super arrogant post.

Click to expand...

Yea, I'm kind of a (well earned) super arrogant grower.

He said to ignore everyone else' advice but his own but everyone else basically said the same thing as our award winning friend here: it's time to transplant.

Click to expand...

Well reading isn't your strong point is it.

I AGREED with everyone else in the fact that he needed to up plant. I disagreed with the majority of OTHER ignorant posts on this bored that claim one requires ph meters and supplement adjustments mid stream.

it's almost ALL Hype, but folks should do what works for them.

Any tool that makes work easier is a good thing. That's what tools are for.

Click to expand...

Sure, but any tool that believes that any and every item produced is an effective tool, is ...well still just a tool.

Like I said, if you are a successful producer using the tools you use, then no need to change something that isn't broken.

But if ones uses these tools and still has problems, then I guess it's really not the tool is it.

.

sikkinixx said:

Yeah, I just think it was a super arrogant post. He said to ignore everyone else' advice but his own but everyone else basically said the same thing as our award winning friend here: it's time to transplant.

Any tool that makes work easier is a good thing. That's what tools are for.

Click to expand...

Yeah well the problem is people over do it all the time. a pH meter incorrectly calibrated will ruin more grows than a guy without one. Most of the pro's use drops anyways if they even HAVE to adjust or take a pH reading into their grows. Most of them have it dialed in with water type, and what kind of fertilizer they use and know how much does what. So many growers on this site try to MICROMANAGE everything and completely screw it up. I see it over and over and over again......

oldsmobiler said:

point is they had the spots when they were young. its been a persistant problem. also I know they need to be transplanted. the problem existed before transplanting came into the picture.

Click to expand...

Not likely friend. How long have they been in the beer cups? Why aren't they already in their final pot?

Just do it. Transplant them, water with plain water, do nothing else for two weeks and you will not see any such spots on new growth.

I get spots on babies on occasion because I do my regular preventative dip in Forbid and eagle 20. This can cause damage to the oldest and lower leaves, ignore it.

The new growth on it's way will be fresh and green and in two weeks you could even remove the offending spotted leaves if it makes you feel better.

You don't have a problem grower, you just seem hesitant to actually START growing for some reason. Pull the trigger, up plant TODAY and by the new year you'll have new growth.

.

I'll agree with you there. Sprays to "fix" problems almost never work. The only spray I use is mighty wash as a routine mite prevention, because those little fuckers are the absolute worst to get rid of.

Larger pot and some fresh soil should do the trick.

plaguedog said:

Yeah well the problem is people over do it all the time. a pH meter incorrectly calibrated will ruin more grows than a guy without one. Most of the pro's use drops anyways if they even HAVE to adjust or take a pH reading into their grows. Most of them have it dialed in with water type, and what kind of fertilizer they use and know how much does what. So many growers on this site try to MICROMANAGE everything and completely screw it up. I see it over and over and over again......

Click to expand...

Very well put grower. obviously a seasoned voice of experience.

There is only one time one needs to check their ph (imho) thats when they first start a new grow in a new place. You need to baseline your primary supply to see what you are working with.

After that, as long as you are close to the general range of neutral (90% of water supply is) you really do not need to keep checking it every time. Like you said, i have seen MANY more growers screw things up for themselves under the guise of fixing it then the other way around.

GanjaPharma once said. "If you have a problem and you haven't fixed it, try. If you have a problem and you've been fixing it, stop fucking with it".

words to live by.

sikkinixx said:

The only spray I use is mighty wash as a routine mite prevention, because those little fuckers are the absolute worst to get rid of.

Click to expand...

This is a POLITE and serious question, not intentional trouble.

Hey Sik, have you found that mighty wash to be effective for you friend? To the point of not needing anything else?

I only ask because there is no one way to control the borg and I know ALOT of people with ALOT of their own personal choice methods for combating such issues.

Heard many things about mighty wash and nukem and the like and it seems that the faithful believe in them and live by their effectiveness, has this been your experience?

I stopped playing with the borg in the 1980's. Yes I know there are more natural ways to combat them but I'm well over the hoops that such natural remedies require...lights out, application Q 72 hours for 3 weeks.....only if it's raining and on a thursday...

Forbid and forget.

reminder that this is a POLITE question and response, I'm way past shooting at folks for their own choices, one should do what works.

.