I'm Ready- Blue OG, White Lavender, OG #18, and Sour Kush.

mycomaster

mycomaster

Well-Known Member
The "Mist" isn't an expensive product, and is 100% natural and organic. So I think the benefits of sacrificing one plant to make an endless supply of female seeds would pay for itself in the first use and return of seeds. Could be a fun and exciting way for a novice breeder to have a small business of sorts. You still have to select for greatness, you can't start chucking this fem pollen around and expect to get great results, but it's a start I think we can all have fun with and get in on. I'm also gonna start to collect pollen from my males that I end up with from my Gage Green gear that blow me away. Maybe keep a clone of an kick @$$ dude, and see what I can pull from a batch of seeds. Kind of cool to be able to collect all these genetics, and start making crosses of some of the ones I'd like to keep around and take clones of all the amazing results. I like your immediate enthusiasm about the spray Prosperian, I can tell your all about getting dank, and keeping it around! Peace out.
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member
I know where Gandalf's head is at with all the recent seed seizure by US customs.

It makes sense to start thinking about stockpiling some beans just in case things get worse before they get better.

I can't walk down the street and pick up a clone like some of you. And seeds, stored correctly, are an investment I'm willing to make.
 
mycomaster

mycomaster

Well-Known Member
Yeah, no clone for me either unless I beg one from a buddy. I wouldn't want to bring in those diseased things they have in alot of those dispensaries anyways. I'll collect some bomb genetics while I can and make my own seeds. I think as long as you put some work into it and really do some selection with your parents it would work fine. Keep all the parents alive until you grow some of the seeds out, test the seed stock to make sure your germ rates, and fem rates are good, and to also see what the progeny grow and smoke like. After that you just keep clones and hit the same parents up to make your seeds if you like them. Alot easier than colloidal silver and all that junk, and I would think better for you and your plant as well. Worth looking in to it. You're completely correct, if you store your seeds right some of them can last for a long time. I've germed seeds that were over 6 years old before, and the plants were awesome. Peace out.
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member
mycomaster said:
Alot easier than colloidal silver and all that junk, and I would think better for you and your plant as well.
Click to expand...
My smoking buddy takes colloidal silver, handfuls of vitamins (seriously 15-20 pills), apple cider vinegar, and other homeopathic stuff. Her sis is a licensed nutritionist in Cali and supports her healthy lifestyle. Taste terrible to me and I can't do it. She won't even pop GNC and other popular vitamins off the shelf because of the poisons used in the processing.

I watch from the sidelines, but she is the picture of health and prefers my vaporized organic bud over other sources. She's always been my inspiration for putting local, organic, non-processed food into my body and limiting the amount of chemicals around my home.

However, I tell her to use "real" deodorant around me because that tree-hugger shit doesn't work! :mrgreen:
 
mycomaster

mycomaster

Well-Known Member
prosperian said:
However, I tell her to use "real" deodorant around me because that tree-hugger shit doesn't work! :mrgreen:
Click to expand...
That made me shoot juice out of my nose when I laughed. I thinks it full of ascorbic acid for vitamin C cause it burns like hell!! That's what I get for buying juice blends and not 100% juice. Oh well, thought I would share. Peace out.
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member

(5-month curing Pineapple Express)

Shared this on another thread, pasted it here too. I use SD's curing and add the hydro packs at the end.

1) Dry your stems in a dark room with air movement, but not pointing at the bud. Don't over dry because if moisture drops below 55% all curing stops and your bud will never get any better. (Dry room RH should be low, use a dehumidifier, I like 40%).

2) I place the bud in mason jars when the stem snaps, for me about three days, but don't rush this step.

3) Buy a small hydrometer from cigar shop or online for $10-15 and throw it into one of the jars. Here is a sample: click

4) Burp the jars every 12 hours for about an hour.
(This is very important step don't skip it. Burp until the hydrometer reads 70% or below for several days - set an alarm on your phone to burp)

5) Once I get the jarred bud to a stable 60-65%, I use Boveda humidity packs and they do the rest. 62% packs work best.
website: http://www.bovedainc.com/store/herbal/


I use SimonD's chart as a guideline:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap (similar to when you were drying earlier), the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place.

More details on curing available on SimonD's thread: A perfect cure every time​
 
D

~Dankster~420

Well-Known Member
So what's your method of producing beans tthen bro :??: you grow out males, or force them to show the male organs :??: imo CS takes to long...
mycomaster said:
Yeah, no clone for me either unless I beg one from a buddy. I wouldn't want to bring in those diseased things they have in alot of those dispensaries anyways. I'll collect some bomb genetics while I can and make my own seeds. I think as long as you put some work into it and really do some selection with your parents it would work fine. Keep all the parents alive until you grow some of the seeds out, test the seed stock to make sure your germ rates, and fem rates are good, and to also see what the progeny grow and smoke like. After that you just keep clones and hit the same parents up to make your seeds if you like them. Alot easier than colloidal silver and all that junk, and I would think better for you and your plant as well. Worth looking in to it. You're completely correct, if you store your seeds right some of them can last for a long time. I've germed seeds that were over 6 years old before, and the plants were awesome. Peace out.
Click to expand...
 
D

~Dankster~420

Well-Known Member
Yeah, this is whaT I do. I just started using the Boveda bags, I can't say really how I feel about them yet, hadn't had them in there long..


prosperian said:

(5-month curing Pineapple Express)

Shared this on another thread, pasted it here too. I use SD's curing and add the hydro packs at the end.

1) Dry your stems in a dark room with air movement, but not pointing at the bud. Don't over dry because if moisture drops below 55% all curing stops and your bud will never get any better. (Dry room RH should be low, use a dehumidifier, I like 40%).

2) I place the bud in mason jars when the stem snaps, for me about three days, but don't rush this step.

3) Buy a small hydrometer from cigar shop or online for $10-15 and throw it into one of the jars. Here is a sample: click

4) Burp the jars every 12 hours for about an hour.
(This is very important step don't skip it. Burp until the hydrometer reads 70% or below for several days - set an alarm on your phone to burp)

5) Once I get the jarred bud to a stable 60-65%, I use Boveda humidity packs and they do the rest. 62% packs work best.
website: http://www.bovedainc.com/store/herbal/


I use SimonD's chart as a guideline:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap (similar to when you were drying earlier), the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place.

More details on curing available on SimonD's thread: A perfect cure every time​
Click to expand...
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member
Dank, just caught up on your thread, always a good read.

I replaced my Bovedas packs this week. I went two months past the recommended replacement period (total of five months) without any issue. I think I got more life because I sucked most of the moisture out of the bud in advance of using the packs. Not too difficult for the Bovedas to maintain a 16 oz. jar of dried herb that's 75% full and never opened.

FYI: The packs get hard and crunchy at the end of the life cycle.
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member
It's here! I will unbox my new toy in the next 24 hours and post the photos on here. It's going to be fun and a game changer for my closet!



navyfighter04 said:
Im digging this grow man..Good Job!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks Navy. You have some serious upgrades in your room. Looking forward to seeing your results this year. Keep me posted.
 
navyfighter04

navyfighter04

Active Member
prosperian said:
It's here! I will unbox my new toy in the next 24 hours and post the photos on here. It's going to be fun and a game changer for my closet!


Thanks Navy. You have some serious upgrades in your room. Looking forward to seeing your results this year. Keep me posted.
Click to expand...
Exactly what is your new toy? Sorry i didnt read through everything in the thread..Just skimmed through it and looked at the pics of your good looking plants.
 
prosperian

prosperian

Well-Known Member
New toy: Area 51 SGS-160 LED Grow Light

Time to replace the 400 watt MH/HPS fixture and light ventilation with this LED veg/flower unit.

I had the fixture in just six days! I like their warranty and upgrade policy, that sealed the deal for me.

Website: http://area51lighting.com/the160.html
Unit Size: 12" wide, 18" long, 2.5" thick
Power Source: 48x Cree XPG Outdoor White + 24x Cree XPE Red
The white LEDs are 5w Cree XPG 4000k, and the reds are Cree XPE 630nm.
The white LEDs cover spectrum from about 415nm to 780nm, and provides enough 660nm.
Electrical Consumption: 120w Veg Mode; 155w Flowering Mode (actual draw -/+ 5w)
Coverage: Minimum 24" x 24" ; Maximum 36" x 36" ; Recommended 24" x 36"
Recommended Height Above Canopy: 18"
PPF: 1156 Umol'/s @ 12", 762 Umol'/s @ 18", 527 Umol'/s @ 24", 326 Umol'/s @ 36"
Cooling: Finned Aluminum Heat Sinks + (2) 120mm 73cfm/10dba ball bearing fans
Operating temperature: 77F - 86F / 25C - 30C (generally operates a few degrees higher than ambient temps)
80 Degree secondary Optics
Limited Lifetime Warranty


Top view



Bottom view



Veg lights on



Flowering lights on



Shipped fast and good packaging



Mounting hardware



More pics to come as I get this bad boy hooked up over the next day or two.

Area 51 SGS-160 LED Grow Light
 
mycomaster

mycomaster

Well-Known Member
Love the new light bro! Like Slipon, I can't wait to see what this baby can do. The white leds should be a whole lot better with taking pictures than the purple led colors, although I really do like the outerspace feel to them. I definitely think you'll dig the way it'll be a game changer for sure with your heat issues. I would like to be able to run leds, but have to wait until I move and re-invest in equipment. I know that they do work great though from Slipon's success with them, and now I'll be able to check out the white leds, and see how they do thanks to you. Way to pioneer bro. Have fun with your new toy, I thought for sure you would have it hooked up already. All in due time said the Kemosabe. Peace out.
 
Slipon

Slipon

Well-Known Member
now thinking back on it, is there any other way of indoor growing when we talk Texas ?


p.s.

what kind of Red`s is it ? 630nm or 660nm ?
 
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