Indefinately's - AERO GROW

UrbanAerO

UrbanAerO

Active Member
no the pump should not run 24/7 in an aero. Ive been doing it for years https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/341141-1-1000w-liquid-cooled-light.html . I run 24/7 on clones only. what is Rhizo? I would say thats doing it. I use 1ml superthrive per gallon of water and 20ml clonex per gallon all the way up until theyre a couple ft tall. your system is kinda like mine where as the roots dont stand in water. I use my timer 15min on/75min off right now because the strain I have doesnt like overwatering, whereas I used to have a G13Xskunk that loved 15minon/15minoff and I would get insane yields but had hermaphrodite issues innherrent with that strain so I tossed it.
 
Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
The Aero Grow is DEAD!

I took all of them out of the Aero tray and planted some in Coco and some in FLOC.
Im going to have a look at changing the sprinklers and tubing and start again in a month or so, once i have clones of some Trainwreck.
I Planted the Seed 2 Days ago.
In the meantime i will do some reading on other peoples threads who are succesfull at Aero.

I will get this thread started againg once i have everything in the background sorted out.

Thanks for your help people.....
Be back soon.
 
Jozikins

Jozikins

Well-Known Member
How very sad, I was hoping to see them come back! It's too bad I just started reading. I was about to say, in my experience, whenever I combine organic and non-organic nutrients I have crazy PH fluctuation, by leaps and bounds! And I would follow UrbanAerO's advice! He seems to know his stuff real well, and with his pump schedules you could get a basic analog timer for 15 bucks at any grow store, or even a grocery store.

Oh well though. Good luck on the transplants! I am actually more interested in how they will go from here after the transplant than if you left them in the aero system, actually. I have never seen plants vegd so long in aero go to coco.
 
B

Bob Smith

Well-Known Member
I'm sticking by my diagnosis in your other thread - the high water temps (>80F) are a breeding ground for pyth and other anaerobic conditions to attack your roots - even though you eventually lowered the temps (70F is good but still not great, something in the 65-68F range is perfect), it seems to have been too late.

If you ever give aero another shot, clean your system thoroughly (like bananas thoroughly) and get a good quality water chiller that will keep your system at 67F steady.
 
Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
Hey Bob

Cleaned the aero table today actually...
I want to get it full with the next batch of clones that i will prepare this weekend.
I think it was mainly the over fert (nute burn)......
at one stage i think i was at 900-1000ppm and a guy told me i should of been on 400.

Roots looked really good.

I hope i dont have any issues this time round......
I will keep temps and nute lower thats for sure!
 

Attachments

Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
Hey peeps,

About 6 years since I've had any fresh green.

Thinking about cracking some seed soon.

Let's hope I get something green happening again soon.

It's been tooooo long.

Indefinately........
"Let there be Green in 2016"
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Indefinately said:
Hey peeps,

About 6 years since I've had any fresh green.

Thinking about cracking some seed soon.

Let's hope I get something green happening again soon.

It's been tooooo long.

Indefinately........
"Let there be Green in 2016"
Click to expand...
I ran sprayer's for 2-3 runs and it was a bitch so I converted the trays back to flood and drain which has never failed me. You will always be fighting root issues if your Res temps are over 70 and ideally around 65-66 seems to work best for my setup. Your roots are not great, just on the verge of turning brown and falling off lol. I did find that the sprayer's when dialed in actually required a higher EC than a flooded root zone, but not that much. Also your root chamber temps are probably really high, insulate the lid so the lights don't heat it up. All I use is a two part nutrient, hydroguard, and amino/fulvic acid product. As soon as the roots start to clump you have a problem and it needs to be addressed or all hell will break lose. Temps (Res and root chamber) are the key, get that under control and your golden. When I transfer into the grow trays I flood very sparingly until roots are established and found the same with the sprayer's, once established then I run 15 on 15 off. You really don't need a cycle timer for spray nozzles unless your true aero which your not, actually a lot of veg growers leave sprayer's on continuously and I have as well, it just means more heat added to the Res though.
 
Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I ran sprayer's for 2-3 runs and it was a bitch so I converted the trays back to flood and drain which has never failed me. You will always be fighting root issues if your Res temps are over 70 and ideally around 65-66 seems to work best for my setup. Your roots are not great, just on the verge of turning brown and falling off lol. I did find that the sprayer's when dialed in actually required a higher EC than a flooded root zone, but not that much. Also your root chamber temps are probably really high, insulate the lid so the lights don't heat it up. All I use is a two part nutrient, hydroguard, and amino/fulvic acid product. As soon as the roots start to clump you have a problem and it needs to be addressed or all hell will break lose. Temps (Res and root chamber) are the key, get that under control and your golden. When I transfer into the grow trays I flood very sparingly until roots are established and found the same with the sprayer's, once established then I run 15 on 15 off. You really don't need a cycle timer for spray nozzles unless your true aero which your not, actually a lot of veg growers leave sprayer's on continuously and I have as well, it just means more heat added to the Res though.
Click to expand...
Hey bud,

Haven't had an op running in many years.

What do you mean by "true aero"

My roots where in absulutely no medium.
Suspended completely in the air.
No access to the reservoir.
So i though it was true aero

I'm cracking some seeds soon
Not sure if i will do aero again though.
Allot more successfull with my flood and drain system.

Indefinately
" let there be Green in 2016"
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Indefinately said:
Hey bud,

Haven't had an op running in many years.

What do you mean by "true aero"

My roots where in absulutely no medium.
Suspended completely in the air.
No access to the reservoir.
So i though it was true aero

I'm cracking some seeds soon
Not sure if i will do aero again though.
Allot more successfull with my flood and drain system.

Indefinately
" let there be Green in 2016"
Click to expand...
True aero IMO is high pressure, over 65 and preferably 85 PSIG pushing the water out the nozzles creating water droplets around 50 microns. And your system is the same as mine pretty much. These are roots in my flood and drain two weeks after cutting them off mom.image.jpeg
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Try Hydroguard and nutrients only to start next time and keep those temps below 70. Also absolutely no light leaks thru net pots, bigger ones let less light thru or cover with something. The roots hate to grow into light. I just went through this with rot and learned a shit load. Here's a pic of the roots from the run that had rot after 30 days of running chilled water and hydroguard image.jpeg. These were like 1 or 2 strands of brown root lol.
 
Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Try Hydroguard and nutrients only to start next time and keep those temps below 70. Also absolutely no light leaks thru net pots, bigger ones let less light thru or cover with something. The roots hate to grow into light. I just went through this with rot and learned a shit load. Here's a pic of the roots from the run that had rot after 30 days of running chilled water and hydroguard View attachment 3699496. These were like 1 or 2 strands of brown root lol.
Click to expand...
Hey Bud,

Not sure if I will be trying Aero again in the near future.

If I do, I'll make sure to follow your suggestion and ask for some more tips as I'm going.

Thanks Budley

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Indefinately said:
Hey Bud,

Not sure if I will be trying Aero again in the near future.

If I do, I'll make sure to follow your suggestion and ask for some more tips as I'm going.

Thanks Budley

Indefinately
" Let there be Green in 2016 "
Click to expand...
I hear ya, seems to be more prone to issues and growth was comparable to flood and drain IMO. If I didn't add chilled water Id switch to drain and waste.
 
Dumme

Dumme

Well-Known Member
@Indefinately,

Just in case you ever wanna rebuild you Aeromist DIY style:

1 - 25 Gal Reservoir, SKU:HGRES25B, Brand:Active Aqua

2 - "Orbit" Cut-Off Sprinkler Riser, 0.5" x 6"

3 - Antelco Rotor Rain Mini Sprinkler

4 - 27.125in × 27.125in cut of Starboard (for top)

5 - Active Aqua, 250 gph pump

For my sprinklers, I used a 1.5in pvc cap that I glued a thin piece of 1.5in pvc to, to hold on the screen (as seen in picture). This help keep out roots from tangling the sprinkler head.

This old system was a little different, but the idea is the same. Its also no longer used.
 
bird mcbride

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
For light and pump timers I go with a 40 amp 12vdc activated relay from the accessory isle at a Canadian Tire store for five bucks Canadian. Then I trip off to Lowes or Walmart to pick up one of their ten dollar digital timers, if Canadian tire hasn't got one. I grab a 15 amp power bar to mount it on. Usually I notice 12-9vdc adapters kickin' and I plug this in the timer to activate the relay and the load goes through the relay. I got one that is using a nine volt adapter to activate the twelve volt relay and it works without problems.

I've noticed that these cheap timers are prone to forgetting the programming when set on am-pm. I don't have any problems with them forgetting their sh*t when set on twenty-four hour or army time.
 
bird mcbride

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
And for those people that are compelled to grow through out the hot summer months I'd have to recommend one of those twelve volt beer coolers for a res. You may need to rig an external water temperature control thermostat and set the cooler on max. They even comes with a lid where you can cut some holes or do whatever :) 65-69F
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
bird mcbride said:
For light and pump timers I go with a 40 amp 12vdc activated relay from the accessory isle at a Canadian Tire store for five bucks Canadian. Then I trip off to Lowes or Walmart to pick up one of their ten dollar digital timers, if Canadian tire hasn't got one. I grab a 15 amp power bar to mount it on. Usually I notice 12-9vdc adapters kickin' and I plug this in the timer to activate the relay and the load goes through the relay. I got one that is using a nine volt adapter to activate the twelve volt relay and it works without problems.

I've noticed that these cheap timers are prone to forgetting the programming when set on am-pm. I don't have any problems with them forgetting their sh*t when set on twenty-four hour or army time.
Click to expand...
Why not just use a 120v relay and just plug it directly into timer?
 
bird mcbride

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Why not just use a 120v relay and just plug it directly into timer?
Click to expand...
It would be best if you can get one cheap ($5Can) and easy to get.

A lot of cars in junk yards have 20-30-40 amp relays plugged into their fuse sockets but they're all twelve volts activation coils also. The relay contacts will handle the specified amperage regardless of the voltage going through them. So ie: if the relay contacts will handle 20 amps at 12vdc it will handle 20 amps at 120/240vac.
 
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Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
bird mcbride said:
It would be best if you can get one cheap.
Click to expand...
You can but you may have to go to HVAC supply, ask for a 120v coil, single or double pole contactor, their a bit louder when closing but beefier than a relay. I get my stuff that is geared for HVAC so pretty much all 24vac and 120/240. I guess it's all access really. With 24 I can match to a lot of HVAC controls re thermostats etc.
 
Indefinately

Indefinately

Well-Known Member
Hey guys

I got the intelligent timer as i was under the impression that you would be able to get great results by cycling the pump 1 min on and a few minutes off.

I won't be playing with this system again for a while, but curious to hear what you guys hink about feeding schedule.
I think everyone says 24 hours on because they don't have timers that allow minute to minute.

Eg : 1 minute on 2 minutes off

Curious to the pro growers opinions.......

Indefinately
" Let it be Green in 2016 "
 
Dumme

Dumme

Well-Known Member
Indefinately said:
Hey guys

I got the intelligent timer as i was under the impression that you would be able to get great results by cycling the pump 1 min on and a few minutes off.

I won't be playing with this system again for a while, but curious to hear what you guys hink about feeding schedule.
I think everyone says 24 hours on because they don't have timers that allow minute to minute.

Eg : 1 minute on 2 minutes off

Curious to the pro growers opinions.......

Indefinately
" Let it be Green in 2016 "
Click to expand...
You could go even more than that if you want. 1 on 10 off, won't hurt the plant, as long as the humidity is high in the aero chamber.
 
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