PLEASE people, let's stop highjacking this thread! GrowLightResearch started another thread for this argument!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/current-will-always-be-regulated-by-varying-the-output-voltage.956934/
If ordered from the site with a driver, and maybe communicated before hand... could those be attached prior to shipping?i throw in 10k resistor with the pots, i have a bunch
it would be in the queue. as long as you dont mind waitingIf ordered from the site with a driver, and maybe communicated before hand... could those be attached prior to shipping?
Not really. Pot manufactures understand that if the "End Resistance" if off that will make the pot useless for many [projects. That is why pots have the "End Resistance" spec. While the pot may have a 12 or 20% tolerance the end resistance will be like a few ohms or 1%. End resistance refers to both the low and high end.Yes. It is recommended to add a 10k resistor in series as many cheaper 100k pots are a little below 100k due to manufacturing tolerances. 100k or more is needed to get 100% power from a MW driver. http://cobkits.com/product/bourns-100k-potentiomenter/
There are many here much better suited to offer advice on technicals, but the Cree 3590's are not far off from the Citizens (CLU048 1818's) which can be acquired for a fraction of the price. Basically you can get relatively the same bang for your buck, with less investment.Hello.i have a question.im looking to fill in a 4x10 area x3 in the very near future.cost isn't a big deal.been reading your post and see you also sell the parts.i can put everything together just wondering what you would recommend for a 4x10 area.trying to keep it under 1200 watts per area.dont wanna go over 4000 watts total.
I was thinking 24 3590's and two of the 600 meanwell at 1400.
I have also been looking at the vero29s but can' get enough info to know what would be better
Any help is,appreciated.
Yeah i really dont know anything about them just want the best for a 10x4 foot area.Im not trying to be on a budget.I would rather get what works so i dont have to upgrade later on down the road.ive also been looking at the Vero29's 24 per 10x4 paired with 4 of the 320 1400's.But again i dont know nothing cause because there is just so much information scattered all over the internet and searches seem to bring up old year old post.the technology is changing.So if you was me and money wasnt an issue(I will get it back in 1 grow)what would you go with to light up a 4x10 foot area and stay under 1300 watts or do i need more wattage?3590s are pretty much obsolete until they start selling them for under $20
luminus cxm22 is a much better bet
they dont make 600W meanwells in constant current. you can run them at 1400 mA per cob but it will be in parallel
its really not changing that fast.the technology is changing
Will you be adding CO21300 watts or do i need more wattage?
Just trying to keep my electric bill down.Will you be adding CO2
If not then 1300W is 32.5W/ft2 in a 4x10 space & most people are going with 30-40W/ft2 so u should be good
meanwells are what 90% of people here use. they are the best.Any suggestions on drivers?
well any LED becomes more efficient when run softerhe' giving me roundabout advice and oh u can use 20 or 40.I have no clue what that shit means.
So let' just say 24 cobs over a 4x8 can u recommend what drivers to run? Also do you sell the chips your talking about?also do you give discounts on bigger orders.I would need 72 cobs and whatever drivers and heat sinks to run themmeanwells are what 90% of people here use. they are the best.
well any LED becomes more efficient when run softer
basically lets take the cob i was recommending, the luminus cxm22.
most people would run those at a max of 75W each.
lets pretend you run them at 100W each, which is within their safe operating range. and that 100W cob over a given area gives you the exact amount of light your plants need.
if you replace that 100W cob with two of the same cobs run softer, they are more efficient so 2 cobs at 45W each (90W total) would give you the same amount of light
if instead you used 4 cobs to light up the same space, you could run them about 20W each and get the same amount of light as the two setups above and are now using only 80W
to put in in perspective, 1000W of light 12 hrs a day at 15 cents/kWh is about $600 a year.
(10) 100W cobs = $600/year
(20) 45W cobs = $540/year
(40) 20W cobs = $480/year
as a rule of thumb depending on how efficient you design your rig to be, you will need between 550 and 750W of LED to replace a 1000W HPS.
as i said above id put 21 cobs in that space if it was mine. bottom line is that if you know absolutely nothing about LEDs take a week to read and ask questions before you part with your hard earned money. you want a rig that fits your budget and does what you want it to do... but you need to understand it a little to make that decision. any of those rigs above are going to be 30+% more efficient than HPS, but when you start to add cobs you get to a point of diminishing returns. if you want to spend twice as much on the rigs to save 400W of heat between the three spaces (and the cooling cost/capacity to deal with it) and save $500 a year in electricity, thats your call. you will recover that money in about 5 years and be in the black year over year after that