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Walterwhiter

Well-Known Member
Going for ×4 1212 at 4000k

Thanks
Based off the chart the 4000k seemed to have the most rounded our spectrum ranges. Can I assume from the likes that it's sounds well...sound. hits my three biggest marks: coverage, efficiency,price point. This is with hlg-185h-48A driver
 

Big smo

Well-Known Member
Cobbit u gonna sell the cutter strips? Fak I just ordered 6 of the samsung strips as a seedling starter connected into my veggie light. I think I paid less for the lights than I would have paid for postage though
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
if they ever get here lol. i got past the putting in the order part, im now into the shipping phase.
 

MrTwist1

Well-Known Member
Cobbit u gonna sell the cutter strips? Fak I just ordered 6 of the samsung strips as a seedling starter connected into my veggie light. I think I paid less for the lights than I would have paid for postage though
The Samsung strips are great regardless of how good the Cutter strips are... and so cheap. I'll be surprised if the cutter strips are any better or cheaper.
 

MrTwist1

Well-Known Member
Hey Cobby I wanted to ask you about the Active coolers on the light engines... These IceLED fans push the heat down towards the plants, right? Is it possible to reverse the polarity of the fan in order to draw the heat out the top of the heatsink and towards my exhaust instead? I guess pulling instead of pushing would hamper the cooling performance of the fan but I'm not sure to what extent. It might be worth it in my case as I'm only running an 1818 at 1050mA anyway heat is a constant battle here. What say you?
 

CryBby247

Active Member
i don't think it'd matter since they running so soft it'd be like a passive with a little air assist more than good enough just guessing though since my eco rocks the party. no reverse polarity protection no fan..hahahha gotta flip the fan homie
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
built this 4-banger today
CLU1825 3500k 80cri
140 x 80 pinfin
hlg320h-1400b

71W/cob w/dimmer maxed
gonna add a toggle to open dimmer leads to get to 74W ea
pinfins are pretty cool, 45C with my ir thermometer.

just bjbs on there, no provision for reflectors ill try to take some 3x3 tent measurements.

i feel like after my 5th or 6th one i know what i want in the rack. im gonna reduce the 4 banger from 24x24" to 21x21", eliminate those two center rails, flip the inner rails holding the heatsinks around and that will be my driver shelf. maybe 2 more passes before i go to the metal shop and say "ok make me 100 of these rails"

by keeping it as simple as possible and reducing material i hope to make it an affordable bolt-together project for anybody. Were approaching $1/watt at high efficiency in kit form thats a goal for me
 

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CobKits

Well-Known Member
Hey Cobby I wanted to ask you about the Active coolers on the light engines... These IceLED fans push the heat down towards the plants, right? Is it possible to reverse the polarity of the fan in order to draw the heat out the top of the heatsink and towards my exhaust instead? I guess pulling instead of pushing would hamper the cooling performance of the fan but I'm not sure to what extent. It might be worth it in my case as I'm only running an 1818 at 1050mA anyway heat is a constant battle here. What say you?
they move a lot of air, its not like the air is overly hot. i think the canopy would like the movement
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
The Samsung strips are great regardless of how good the Cutter strips are... and so cheap. I'll be surprised if the cutter strips are any better or cheaper.
yeah but does samsung sell 450, 660, and 730, cuz that was half my order :bigjoint:
 

Evil-Mobo

Well-Known Member
built this 4-banger today
CLU1825 3500k 80cri
140 x 80 pinfin
hlg320h-1400b

71W/cob w/dimmer maxed
gonna add a toggle to open dimmer leads to get to 74W ea
pinfins are pretty cool, 45C with my ir thermometer.

just bjbs on there, no provision for reflectors ill try to take some 3x3 tent measurements.

i feel like after my 5th or 6th one i know what i want in the rack. im gonna reduce the 4 banger from 24x24" to 21x21", eliminate those two center rails, flip the inner rails holding the heatsinks around and that will be my driver shelf. maybe 2 more passes before i go to the metal shop and say "ok make me 100 of these rails"

by keeping it as simple as possible and reducing material i hope to make it an affordable bolt-together project for anybody.
How long until available?
 

MrTwist1

Well-Known Member
they move a lot of air, its not like the air is overly hot. i think the canopy would like the movement
They like the movement but not the heat. When your ambient is 87f the air is kinda hot... hence the original question.
 

eminiplayer

Well-Known Member
engine 100 driver 105 less riu, ~$200
I'm interested in buying this light, the 3618... could you give me a parts breakdown of a package, including driver? I have a 20" x 17" x 42"grow box... so that's 2.65sq/ft and quite limited with height at 3.5'. I'm terrible with DIY and just want to hang one big light. Do you think it would work in my space? What amp would you recommend running the driver? Obviously I want as much light as the space will allow.
 

mx5spd

Well-Known Member
If my math is correct would like to order. Any suggestions appreciated.

1.56sqft popsicle continuous grow cabinet with passive cooling. Exhausting heat from Cabinet non issue.

2 CLU 1818 90 CRI @ 1.05 amps
10x14 finned USA Heatsink profile
68.59 Total watts per sqft
29.49 PAR watts per sqft
PPFD 1542.55
Meanwell HLG 120 H 48A


Do these Numbers seem adequate?

Thanks
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
the 120 will run 2 of those up to about 75 w each. make sure to dim, its kinda hard to tell exactly how bright youre running, a wattsup is handy.
 
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