eyderbuddy
Well-Known Member
Will you be pumping 112 watts to those 1818s?? Or is it 81w?
Introducing CobKits.com - specializing in DIY and Citizen COBs
Will you be pumping 112 watts to those 1818s?? Or is it 81w?
JimmyJames905
Member
I contacted you about 6 of your Econmy heatsinks and a HLG-240H-C2100 driver.
If you can get what I need I'll move all my business to you and stop using DigiKey and Mouser. I'd rather go with one small company that can get everything I need instead of 3 companies for 3 items. My company is expanding exponentially and I will be licensed to grow 300 plants come April. Gonna need lights.
Sincerely
James
DankBuds Canada
Licensed ACMPR grower and BioMed Engineer.
If you can get what I need I'll move all my business to you and stop using DigiKey and Mouser. I'd rather go with one small company that can get everything I need instead of 3 companies for 3 items. My company is expanding exponentially and I will be licensed to grow 300 plants come April. Gonna need lights.
Sincerely
James
DankBuds Canada
Licensed ACMPR grower and BioMed Engineer.
JimmyJames905
Member
I have no idea. I drive mine high at around 75-90 watts. I get better effacy and efficiency at that wattage. I use top bin COBs and only Meanwell drivers so with the right cooling I can "drive the hell out of them" and turn those 11000 lumen COBs into 18000 lumen COBs.
Maybe some people are using cheap China COBs and drivers. I tried them once. Not worth the money. The diodes go and the drivers burn out.
visajoe1
Well-Known Member
For now, yes sir I am. Its 81 watts/sq ft, but that doesnt matter too much. These cobs can handle up to 250 watts and 4.14amps. I'm running them at about half power and I think it may be a little overkill? Im trying to figure out PPFD and get tuned into about 1000, anything more than that is a waste since I dont run CO2. I think I'm somewhere between 800-1300 right now? Been trying to figure this out for days
visajoe1
Well-Known Member
I wonder the same thing about why most seem to run around 50w. Most have larger builds tho, and I'm sure I would have a similar setup if I needed a 4,6, or 8 cob setup. I give a crap about efficiency, we're talking about cents/day for most small grows, so its all about light output and quality for me.
JimmyJames905
Member
I don't know about Cree but I had my Vero29's put under a PAR meter and at 50w I got 850 U/mol at 3 feet. At 75w I got 1186 at 3 feet and at 90w (I started getting a 60 cycle hum above 90) I got 1490 u/mol. That's 4x what a 300w HPS puts out at 3 feet. I didn't have a laser thermometer so I couldn't tell you how hot they got but the Vero's will handle 125°C at the LES.
This was testing 1 Vero29 BXRC D-73 cob at 3 feet rated at 11k+ lumens.
So ya....overdrive gets great results.
They were tested with a Apogee PAR meter.
visajoe1
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the input Jimmy. I found a great research study article in another post that we all should take a look at. Turns out, we're good to go up to 1500 PPFD before growth performance starts dipping. Co2 helps of course. Im going to keep mine pumping 100%
Conclusion:
In view of our results, it is concluded that C. sativa can utilize a fairly high level of PPFD and temperature for its gas and water exchange processes, and can perform much better if grown at ~ 1500 μmol m-2 s-1PPFD and around 25 to 30 oC temperature conditions. Furthermore, higher PN, WUE and nearly constant Ci/Ca ratio under elevated CO2 concentration, reflects its potential for improved growth and productivity in drier and CO2 rich environment.
File attached below
Conclusion:
In view of our results, it is concluded that C. sativa can utilize a fairly high level of PPFD and temperature for its gas and water exchange processes, and can perform much better if grown at ~ 1500 μmol m-2 s-1PPFD and around 25 to 30 oC temperature conditions. Furthermore, higher PN, WUE and nearly constant Ci/Ca ratio under elevated CO2 concentration, reflects its potential for improved growth and productivity in drier and CO2 rich environment.
File attached below
JimmyJames905
Member
Wow. You're the Best.
I was ready to run out and buy an apogee meter at $600.
I'll be assembling close to 300 COBs in the next year as I've applied for my LP cannabis license and have been approved for a 100 plant R&D grow.
The only reason I joined is because I spoke to the OP on Thursday (via his eBay ad) for heatsinks and I haven't heard back from him in 3 days.
Unfortunately if I don't hear from him by the end of the week I'll have to go elsewhere for my heatsinks which really sucks because a) I want to go with one small company that can provide COBs, drivers and heatsinks and b) I'll need 300 of them in the next 4 months.
Right now I only need 6 so that I can take the new cobs to my lighting guy and have them spec'd but if the OP (cobkits) doesn't get back to me I have to go ahead with the test using the Aavid heatsinks...and they require fans.
visajoe1
Well-Known Member
Thats an exciting operation you're undertaking. Good luck to you! I got my setup from Cobkits, hes a great guy, had what I needed, and is domestic. I think getting everything you need from one spot is going to be tough because your quantities is so large, but its possible.
What cobs are you using for your 6? Is it one light or two?
What cobs are you using for your 6? Is it one light or two?
Plant Lobbyist
Well-Known Member
The higher quality brands let you run harder current with smaller efficiency penalties. You are paying for the luxury to run hot as this tech is primarily used for high bay lighting.
All LEDs get more efficient as they are under driven. This is where things get cloudy. There is a point (5-10w) where all brand name CoBs match efficiencies. At that point it is whichever chip is cheapest.
But it is still a much larger upfront cost; 5 to 10 times the CoB cost of running 1 @ 50w. If going this route then you can also save on cooling since the chips are running low enough for passive cooling.
For Vero g7s, the C series @ 69v are gems to run ~45w @ 700ma. Through my recycling of LED parts, many drivers from chinese made fixtures have cc of 700ma so I have been mating 1 CoB to each driver with great results.
Recycling is good for LED. You can pick up some great deals on used equipment that can be modified or used for parts. Most panels using small discrete LEDs are running too hot (heat and current wise) which can be made useful again by under driving them. I have several cheap panels running at 25% that still put out 300ppfd at 12" that are passively cooled on 1/8th aluminum sheet. These run on the walls for supplemental lighting similar to the Quantum Boards but running at only 40-70w and augment the CoBs from overhead. This also allows for better airflow using one large fan up top blowing air down.
JimmyJames905
Member
I'm using the Bridgelux Vero 29
BXRC-40E10K0-D-73-SE. It's a brand new chip.
I just got 3 and I'm testing them against the
BXRC-40E10K0-E-73 from last year.
But I need passive heatsinks.
BXRC-40E10K0-D-73-SE. It's a brand new chip.
I just got 3 and I'm testing them against the
BXRC-40E10K0-E-73 from last year.
But I need passive heatsinks.
Plant Lobbyist
Well-Known Member
From people selling them cheap because they don't know how to grow, that is the easiest. Universities that have been doing plant research are often upgrading. If you are lucky, you may even get some demo equipment for free. I even got 10 epistar generic fixtures for $10.
The study you are referring to saying 1500ppfd for growing sativa has been thoroughly debunked. Sure the plant will handle that much light (peak at noon is around 2000) but it won't use it to increase photosynthesis. You are better off distributing the light to less exposed areas of the plant.
As for what is the best, that is strain and environment dependent. The good news is that there is a huge buffer between optimal and maximum so lots of room to play.
JimmyJames905
Member
Posted reply above.
Plant Lobbyist
Well-Known Member
Those are decor series which have a premium cost over the other cobs in the gen 7 line. The version you listed would be for a 4k CCT version but isn't even listed as available in the product sheet from bridgelux, so I think you are incorrect. Regardless, you will have a hard time cooling passively at those currents.
Anyhow not to derail, but you should get Citis from Cobkits and Bridglelux from Future Electronics being up in Canada.
You should also hone up on your game quite a bit if you want to be successful up here. Basic lighting knowledge is mandatory to survive. Regardless of your opinion on LPs, they are much further ahead research wise when it comes to technology and that is what you are competing with. Unlike the Americans, we have been studying this for many years.
Plant Lobbyist
Well-Known Member
Funny.
Someone with your incompetence doesn't work for any of the LPs up here. That's fairly obvious to one who does. We don't let 'clowns' into our special club. Lulz.
Here is the product sheet from Bridgelux for the Decor SE series:
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...ro SE Series Data Sheet Rev A 20161026_0.pdf
So either you are wrong with your listing or you got taken by DigiKey. I just took a look at digikey and it wasn't them so you are wrong.
Now back to knocking you back into line for being such an embarrassment to your claimed profession. The large LP installations going up are all using LED tech much of which they are doing themselves regarding design and requirements. Your obvious lack of knowledge precludes you from being involved in such matters.
The only involvement you might have in an LP is that of a janitor. If there is anything in what you said as being true in your posts regarding where you claim to be at, you better swing by the office and clean out my garbage can.
Plant Lobbyist
Well-Known Member
I don't think it is hostile. He made certain claims and got called out on them.
Personally, I think it is best for society that people such as him aren't allowed to make products, let alone medicine, for human consumption. People like him make it more difficult for mainstream society to accept the industry.
Silver or lead
Well-Known Member
He does not even know the difference between far red and infrared. He is acting this way in 3 threads now. He's a troll.
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