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whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
8 cxb3070's @50W (1400mA) run very nicely in my 4x3 area.
Each cob produces *approx 9500 lumens
4'x3'=12sq/ft
400W/12sq.ft = approx 34W per sq ft is what I average.
The cxb3070's put out approx 9500Lu per cob
9500Lu x 8 cobs =76000Lu total
76000/12 sq. ft =6334Lu per sq. ft.
If you have 7000+ Lu per sq. ft you are doing VERY well on your lighting in my humble opinion.
If you get 3590's you will be doing a bit better on Lu and efficiency over the 3070's. Theres an $8-$10 gap in the price between the 2 though.....
What driver you using?
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Im happy with the performance I've seen with them this far, but I haven't had the opportunity to really work em since I only have 1 small grow with the cobs. You could always go 400W with 2 bars and use potentiometers. You can dial it down but its there if you ever need it.
 

weed-whacker

Well-Known Member
perhaps this has been answered but im struggling to find it now.


the bees knees has been the cree cxb3590 80cri 3500k @ aprox 50w


with these citizen cobs we have seen graphs showing they r more efficent than the 3590.

my question is which cobs should we drive at which currents?(R we still sticking with 3500k for citizen? 90 or 80cri?)

also looking at the graphs from @BOBBY_G as far as efficency goes the citizen only win when driving harder right?

like i figure ill need 150w of cob power in my next micro set-up, original plan was 3x CXB3590 on an ELG-150-C1400B(50w per cob)

but if i go citizen....shall i get the CLU481818 in the same config?

what citizen=3590?

sorry so many questions maybe someone can help me compare those cobs


also @CobKits how about some cute heatsinks for running cobs at 15-30w? that would make the 1212s more appealing especially in a micro situation as no optics will be used hence more cobs and more spread is more better

keep up the good work
 
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CobKits

Well-Known Member
the bees knees has been the cree cxb3590 80cri 3500k @ aprox 50w
yes that is most popular

with these citizen cobs we have seen graphs showing they r more efficent than the 3590.
realtive to a 3590 on efficacy at a given watt the 1825 and 3618 are more efficient across the board
1818 is less efficient below 60W, about the same 60-90W, more efficient above 90W
1212 is less efficient across the board but makes up for it with its low cost. so multiple chips can be used to be more efficient at a lower price
also looking at the graphs from @BOBBY_G as far as efficiency goes the citizen only win when driving harder right?
see above

but if i go citizen....shall i get the CLU481818 in the same config?

what citizen=3590?
1818 is the closest in the range we usually operate

also @CobKits how about some cute heatsinks for running cobs at 15-30w? that would make the 1212s more appealing especially in a micro situation as no optics will be used hence more cobs and more spread is more better
well you can use the 105mm ones, they would just run a little cooler its hard for me to stock every possible combination
 
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weed-whacker

Well-Known Member
yes that is most popular


realtive to a 3590 on efficacy at a given watt the 1825 and 3618 are more efficient across the board
1818 is less efficient below 60W, about the same 60-90W, more efficient above 90W
1212 is less efficient across the board but makes up for it with its low cost. so multiple chips can be used to be more efficient at a lower price

see above


1818 is the closest in the range we usually operate


well you can use the 105mm ones, they would just run a little cooler its hard for me to stock every possible combination
Thanks for ur info

Do we have efficiency % to calculate par watts to ppfd for these?

I'm thinking 10 1212s at 10w each
Or 15 at 10w each
Or 10 at 15w each

Uma sucker for even light spread but don't really know how many I'll need
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
Aren't you running over 400 with the T5?
Yes. Even with cob I would still have a t5 bulb or two.

I'm going to try to setup a couple solar panels and batteries to run it off of. If I stick to cobs I don't need drivers or an inverter. I would build the dc system to match the cob requirements. I would use three 12 volt batteries to make a 36 volt system, as an example.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
But you will need a constant current buck converter, they are cheap though... However, modern 12 volt, 120/ah ( typical ) glass mat or gellcell batteries are designed for moderate steady loads typical in a solar home. They are very inefficient at low amperage draws. Get 6 Trojan T105, 6V, lead acid batteries. Mine lasted over 10 years of hard use.

A 250 watt panel or two, and you could charge the batteries AND run that light.

Yes. Even with cob I would still have a t5 bulb or two.

I'm going to try to setup a couple solar panels and batteries to run it off of. If I stick to cobs I don't need drivers or an inverter. I would build the dc system to match the cob requirements. I would use three 12 volt batteries to make a 36 volt system, as an example.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
But you will need a constant current buck converter, they are cheap though... However, modern 12 volt, 120/ah ( typical ) glass mat or gellcell batteries are designed for moderate steady loads typical in a solar home. They are very inefficient at low amperage draws. Get 6 Trojan T105, 6V, lead acid batteries. Mine lasted over 10 years of hard use.

A 250 watt panel or two, and you could charge the batteries AND run that light.
I got a friend that runs those big 2 volt batteries. A whole garage full of them. He has a wind turbine to.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
I designed and installed my own solar system for a home I use to own. I also had a small, 400 watt, 24V wind turbine. I've seen those big, railroad batteries, they'll last a long time!

I got a friend that runs those big 2 volt batteries. A whole garage full of them. He has a wind turbine to.
 
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