Is senessence required for a smooth smoke?

Hey, so I recently harvested some purple haze with a flowering time of 8-9 weeks @ the 10 week and 3 day mark.

I did not notice the plants dying off (senessence) anywhere near as much as my previous run (1st go at LSO).

So my flower is burning harsh with a dark ash and I'm trying to pin point the cause.

If I did overfertilize I feel it must have been very minimal, any nute burn was extremely minimal and could only have come from slightly too much top dress (gaia green powerbloom + worm casting).

I hang dried for 15-17 days until stems just started to snap, the room I was burping in had too high rH and I'm just now getting the flower to the right moisture after 4-5 weeks of burping.

So back to the initial question at hand. If senescence is not allowed to occur (early harvest in a soil grow) are you more than likely to retain the crap we are avoiding similar to not flushing with a soilless/hydroponic grow? Side question, as soil grows can take slightly longer could this even be an issue for me pushing to 10+ weeks?

Here's pics pre-harvest

I wanted to add that I used a lot of dehumidifier water in the last few weeks of the run and my pH meter being toasted I had never checked it. If my water was very acidic and I used it for prolonged periods would that negate the pH buffering abilities of the soil and still cause excess accumulations to be intaken?

Edit : Black swollows KIS mix, black swollow worm casting, and gaia green powerbloom would be main sources of NPK, lots of freeze dried coconut powder, decent bit of malt barley and bokashi

I don't know man, your plants look good and your buds look chronic.

Maybe the drying process was the issue? That seems like a long time to have to burp after hanging for 2 weeks.

A healthy plant is a good one. No reason to have a dead plant at harvest. Some show lots of cool colors cuz of colorful genetics or because their growers flush at the end forcing fall colors to come out real fast before harvest. But if your plant is dieing on its own your not doing it right.

Regarding flushing no matter how much water goes thru the plant in its last week its not gonna change what it was grown out of. Worry less about flushing and more about good nutrients. A final feed with just water should be sufficient

10+ weeks in flower isn’t unheard of. I’ve ran hybrids just as long.That could have fone another week or two. I don’t think it was ready to chop. Since you did, and even with the long drying period, imo the high humidity kept too much moisture in those buds. It needs to dry more. Do you use hygrometers in jars? Did you know how high the RH was while they hung? You shouldn’t be burping to release moisture for 5 weeks. It just doesn’t sound normal.

HydroKid239 said:

10+ weeks in flower isn’t unheard of. I’ve ran hybrids just as long.That could have fone another week or two. I don’t think it was ready to chop. Since you did, and even with the long drying period, imo the high humidity kept too much moisture in those buds. It needs to dry more. Do you use hygrometers in jars? Did you know how high the RH was while they hung? You shouldn’t be burping to release moisture for 5 weeks. It just doesn’t sound normal.

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Im using 3 hygros, 2 are junk. The one that seems to be quite accurate is reading 59%-62%, and the 59% jar is still burning dark, little harsh with bad flavour translation.

The plan is to throw the entire run into bubble bags, so I'm not too worried there. My main concern is my next run that has been transplanted back into the same re-amended soil.
My 15gal. were not quite full at end of the purple haze run (10-12gal.) so I've since filled them with black swollow KIS mix. Hoping if I run mostly water (no NPK) this following run I may have better luck... Assuming I applied too much top dress.

I know they say a slow dry is best, but 6-7 weeks to get to 60% rh seems a bit excessive... It might still be too wet to burn right.

Have you tried leaving a bud out in a dry place for a couple days, so it gets like totally bone dry, then smoking it?

weedstoner420 said:

I know they say a slow dry is best, but 6-7 weeks to get to 60% rh seems a bit excessive... It might still be too wet to burn right.

Have you tried leaving a bud out in a dry place for a couple days, so it gets like totally bone dry, then smoking it?

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Left some out overnight last night but I will try for a few days before I decide to not save any from the bubblebags.

Yea, I still had some bendy branch's when I got stem snaps and pulled them down, going to lower rH for my next dry. I believe my living room had high rH (60%-75%) while I was burping jars, is it absolutely necessary to get ambient rH to approx 55%-60% during burping/sweating. I feel like I got nowhere for the first 2-3 weeks of my burp/cure.

Take the following as my 2 cents
( this only my opinion )

They needed more time. Final weight and hardening off / pistil recede. Regardless of flower week time.
Another 2 maybe.

Budzbuddha said:

Take the following as my 2 cents
( this only my opinion )

They needed more time. Final weight and hardening off / pistil recede. Regardless of flower week time.
Another 2 maybe.

View attachment 5172356View attachment 5172357View attachment 5172358

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What are all the lines for?

PadawanWarrior said:

What are all the lines for?

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In my opinion the area for final swell and more recede.

Budzbuddha said:

Take the following as my 2 cents
( this only my opinion )

They needed more time. Final weight and hardening off / pistil recede. Regardless of flower week time.
Another 2 maybe.

View attachment 5172356View attachment 5172357View attachment 5172358

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In the case of the pistils I believe the light was a little too close to some tops causing some extra white pistils to pop and some mild foxtailing, very common with haze genetics from what I've read.

I also was starting to see amber trichs. not sure about the purple haze, but I would not expect to be going another 2 weeks with most haze genetics after amber trichs. 10+ weeks in.
But I have little experience, that's why I'm here asking a pretty basic question. Appreciate your opinion.

They could have went a bit longer…..they’re ripe when they’re ripe and the date on the calendar is not relevant…..but I don’t think that would cause your issues. IMHO it has to be something that occurred during your dry and cure. It’s possible they are still not dry enough….evidenced by the black ash…
And by staying wet so long, perhaps they acquired a little mildew that you’re not seeing. That’s purely a wild guess though.

TrentSteel said:

In the case of the pistils I believe the light was a little too close to some tops causing some extra white pistils to pop and some mild foxtailing, very common with haze genetics from what I've read.

I also was starting to see amber trichs. not sure about the purple haze, but I would not expect to be going another 2 weeks with most haze genetics after amber trichs. 10+ weeks in.
But I have little experience, that's why I'm here asking a pretty basic question. Appreciate your opinion.

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10 weeks is a short flowering haze.

PJ Diaz said:

10 weeks is a short flowering haze.

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Yea I do agree with that for sure, but purple haze is a short flowering haze is it not? I guess I said "most haze genetics", my bad. I just figured I wanted very minimal amber trichs on a haze as it was mainly intended for a daysmoke. Would pushing an extra 2 weeks after 5%-10% amber trichs. not push me too far?

When would you typically see first amber trichs. on an 11-12 week strain? I know it would vary but would it typically be week 9 or 11~

TrentSteel said:

Yea I do agree with that for sure, but purple haze is a short flowering haze is it not? I guess I said "most haze genetics", my bad. I just figured I wanted very minimal amber trichs on a haze as it was mainly intended for a daysmoke. Would pushing an extra 2 weeks after 5%-10% amber trichs. not push me too far?

When would you typically see first amber trichs. on an 11-12 week strain? I know it would vary but would it typically be week 9 or 11~

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I don't look at trich shades, it isn't the best way to judge maturity IMO.

Trichs are a terrible gauge of maturity, in my tent at least plants display receded pistols and swollen calyxes before the trichs start to colour up, during the colouring up they look they're not growing any but they're still putting on weight in the last 7/10 days you can expect a lot of branches folding under their own weight, with most hybrids i find 90 days is about average for 20/30% amber.

I agree with @Budzbuddha.
While they look fantastic, they were not even close to finished. That, in and of itself, does not really explain the harshness you're describing.
In my experience, almost everything takes between 75 and 90 days of 12/12 to actually finish properly.

TrentSteel said:

Hey, so I recently harvested some purple haze with a flowering time of 8-9 weeks @ the 10 week and 3 day mark.

I did not notice the plants dying off (senessence) anywhere near as much as my previous run (1st go at LSO).

So my flower is burning harsh with a dark ash and I'm trying to pin point the cause.

If I did overfertilize I feel it must have been very minimal, any nute burn was extremely minimal and could only have come from slightly too much top dress (gaia green powerbloom + worm casting).

I hang dried for 15-17 days until stems just started to snap, the room I was burping in had too high rH and I'm just now getting the flower to the right moisture after 4-5 weeks of burping.

So back to the initial question at hand. If senescence is not allowed to occur (early harvest in a soil grow) are you more than likely to retain the crap we are avoiding similar to not flushing with a soilless/hydroponic grow? Side question, as soil grows can take slightly longer could this even be an issue for me pushing to 10+ weeks?

Here's pics pre-harvest

I wanted to add that I used a lot of dehumidifier water in the last few weeks of the run and my pH meter being toasted I had never checked it. If my water was very acidic and I used it for prolonged periods would that negate the pH buffering abilities of the soil and still cause excess accumulations to be intaken?

Edit : Black swollows KIS mix, black swollow worm casting, and gaia green powerbloom would be main sources of NPK, lots of freeze dried coconut powder, decent bit of malt barley and bokashi

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I don't know what you actually grew but there is no real Haze with a flowering time of 8-9 weeks. 10 weeks is not even long enough for a true Haze. If it was advertised with an 8-9 week flowering time then it's not a true Haze. Nice looking plant but it's a hybrid. Black ash is due to incomplete combustion not from green leaves at harvest.

xtsho said:

I don't know what you actually grew but there is no real Haze with a flowering time of 8-9 weeks. 10 weeks is not even long enough for a true Haze. If it was advertised with an 8-9 week flowering time then it's not a true Haze. Nice looking plant but it's a hybrid. Black ash is due to incomplete combustion not from green leaves at harvest.

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Yea, they were free seeds my buddy won at a contest through ILGM, I really don't have much confidence in that company. I've google searched purple haze on many difference sources all of which state 8-9 weeks.
Youve already posted and told me that black ash is from incomplete combustion. I'm trying to figure out why... Could there not be multiple reasons for this?
Not sure what your referring to when you use the word "hybrid" but yes it is 60% sativa, not even sure if it is considered a "true haze"

Hot Diggity Sog said:

I agree with @Budzbuddha.
While they look fantastic, they were not even close to finished. That, in and of itself, does not really explain the harshness you're describing.
In my experience, almost everything takes between 75 and 90 days of 12/12 to actually finish properly.

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75-90 days in your IMO, I'm assuming this is referring to soil grows only? Will different phenotype/genotypes generally all finish at the same time? These 2 plants were vastly different, the one swelled while the other stayed slim and dense.