Is this a russet mite?

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I'm in veg right now. Most of them are a foot tall give or take, about a month old, then I have one bigger one that is about 2 and a half months old, also still vegging and yes I have I believe a 56 oz sprayer.

How critical is it to spray during lights off? Lights are only off while I'm at work. I started some spinosad Sunday evening, I will be shooting them again with it tomorrow. They were sprayed during lights on but I turned all fans off for about a half hour.
There didn't seem to be any negative effects on the plants as far as spraying with the lights on. Is the chance of scorching the plants spraying lights on the main worry or does it make the treatment less effective spraying during lights on?
If they are T8s or T5s it is okay. LED or HID - turn the bright lights off. Spray undersides mainly and some on top of leaves. Also turn the fans off. Let them sit for 45 minutes or so then turn on the fans. Let the fans blow on them for an hour or so then turn the lights back on.

A gallon sprayer is 128 oz I think. Just adjust your mix by 1/2. Soaps, essential oils, canola oil, etc are fine in veg. Neem oil is also very good when in Veg.

If you are in the USA you can get this stuff at grow stores, Home Depot, Lowes. and surprisingly Ace Hardware. My local Ace has a great selection of spinosad, insecticidal soaps, pyrethians.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
theres less risk of getting burnt spots on your leaves, sometimes drops of water (or other clear liquid) will act as magnifying glasses and concentrate the light into points that will burn spots on your leaves. if you do it at the beginning of lights off, you can raise the risk of pm and mold. its best to do it about 20 minutes or so before the lights come on. effectiveness will be the same, lights on or off. however, if you're ever trying to foliar feed, you have to do that during lights on, foliar feeding only works when stomata are open, and stomata are only open when lights are on
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
If they are T8s or T5s it is okay. LED or HID - turn the bright lights off. Spray undersides mainly and some on top of leaves. Also turn the fans off. Let them sit for 45 minutes or so then turn on the fans. Let the fans blow on them for an hour or so then turn the lights back on.

A gallon sprayer is 128 oz I think. Just adjust your mix by 1/2. Soaps, essential oils, canola oil, etc are fine in veg. Neem oil is also very good when in Veg.

If you are in the USA you can get this stuff at grow stores, Home Depot, Lowes. and surprisingly Ace Hardware. My local Ace has a great selection of spinosad, insecticidal soaps, pyrethians.
my ace didn't have shit, till i started harassing them about it, then they got some spinosad, and they'll order bricks of coco for me, guess not too many hillwilliams ask for it round here
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
I'm in veg right now. Most of them are a foot tall give or take, about a month old, then I have one bigger one that is about 2 and a half months old, also still vegging and yes I have I believe a 56 oz sprayer.

How critical is it to spray during lights off? Lights are only off while I'm at work. I started some spinosad Sunday evening, I will be shooting them again with it tomorrow. They were sprayed during lights on but I turned all fans off for about a half hour.
There didn't seem to be any negative effects on the plants as far as spraying with the lights on. Is the chance of scorching the plants spraying lights on the main worry or does it make the treatment less effective spraying during lights on?
Also - I would check after a few days to see if spinosad is doing the job. If not, I would also hit them with on of my cheap solutions too. Neem oil in flower with a drop or two of dish soap will also pound these little f**ks.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Also - I would check after a few days to see if spinosad is doing the job. If not, I would also hit them with on of my cheap solutions too. Neem oil in flower with a drop or two of dish soap will also pound these little f**ks.
Yeah well the thing is that I've actually only found that one young spider mite and ive looked several times on several different plants, so I'm thinking I caught it right at the beginning. So that'll make it a bit tough to see if the spino is working since I'm having a tough time even finding mites. But I do plan on using neem oil as well and atleast one other treatment.

How many times in a row should i spray the spino before switching up to a new treatment? I've heard only 2 times in a row and I've heard for 2 weeks straight..

Also as far as the forbid goes, it's already long shipped and should be here in a couple days. However with all of the great info I've got from you guys, I won't be using it unless Im seeing mites alive 2 to 3 weeks from now. Which considering I'll be treating for a couple weeks and having trouble even finding mites I'm sure that the spino, neem, and one of treatment will be just fine.

If I find a population of russet/broads then I'll consider using the forbid just to be safe, this stuff isn't going to dispensaries or anything like that anyway. But I looked more lastnight for the micro mites and still not seeing any so it's highly doubtful I'll have to go that route.

I'll try to post some pics this evening and see what you guys think. The bigger plant looks like it has tmv but everytime I bring that up people say it's never been proven to effect cannabis
 
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Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i start off spraying spinosad every three days, and i spray it 4 or 5 times, just to make sure i get them all. three times should be enough, really.
if its a tough bunch, i'll switch and spray pyrethin 3 times, 3 days apart, then i'll alternate with spinosad, twice more with each.
i started off doing the same thing with neem in place of pyrethin, but i believe i've made my opinion of neem clear enough.
i've never had them bad enough to have to do more than this, usually, the initial 4 or 5 sprayings of spinosad will be enough.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
The bigger plant looks like it has tmv but everyone I bring that up people say it's never been proven to effect cannabis.

it hasn't been, but there's something that looks the same, acts the same, is treated the same....but it ain't the same....call it Cmv...call it Batman....a virus is a virus is a virus.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Yeah well the thing is that I've actually only found that one young spider mite and ive looked several times on several different plants, so I'm thinking I caught it right at the beginning. So that'll make it a bit tough to see if the spino is working since I'm having a tough time even finding mites. But I do plan on using neem oil as well and atleast one other treatment.

How many times in a row should i spray the spino before switching up to a new treatment? I've heard only 2 times in a row and I've heard for 2 weeks straight..

Also as far as the forbid goes, it's already long shipped and should be here in a couple days. However with all of the great info I've got from you guys, I won't be using it unless Im seeing mites alive 2 to 3 weeks from now. Which considering I'll be treating for a couple weeks and having trouble even finding mites I'm sure that the spino, neem, and one of treatment will be just fine.

If I find a population of russet/broads then I'll consider using the forbid just to be safe, this stuff isn't going to dispensaries or anything like that anyway. But I looked more lastnight for the micro mites and still not seeing any so it's highly doubtful I'll have to go that route.

I'll try to post some pics this evening and see what you guys think. The bigger plant looks like it has tmv but everyone I bring that up people say it's never been proven to effect cannabis
If you want Forbid 4F, you can get a 10 or 20 ml repackaged vial on eBay for $15 to 30. In a gallon you only use 0.6 to 1 ml so it will last forever.

You can switch things up between spinosad and pyrethian or soaps or neem. Just keep pounding them in veg.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
The bigger plant looks like it has tmv but everyone I bring that up people say it's never been proven to effect cannabis.

it hasn't been, but there's something that looks the same, acts the same, is treated the same....but it ain't the same....call it Cmv...call it Batman....a virus is a virus is a virus.
You lost me there lol
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
people will tell you its not tmv....but they can't tell you what it is. it has all the same symptoms, is treated the same way, has the same effects, so i don't understand why they have to keep telling you its not tmv. how about telling me what it is then? that was kind of my point
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Got
people will tell you its not tmv....but they can't tell you what it is. it has all the same symptoms, is treated the same way, has the same effects, so i don't understand why they have to keep telling you its not tmv. how about telling me what it is then? that was kind of my point
Gotcha. So how is it treated then? I didn't know there was a treatment for tmv
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
people will tell you its not tmv....but they can't tell you what it is. it has all the same symptoms, is treated the same way, has the same effects, so i don't understand why they have to keep telling you its not tmv. how about telling me what it is then? that was kind of my point
I'll also say that this plant popped up as a seedling already having the strange curves to the leafs but it didn't start the weird yellow blotchy coloring until it was about a month old
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
theres not really a treatment, but you can grow the plant out as long as you aren't cloning. the real threat is that it can spread between plants, but it usually doesn't show up till the next generation, so the only real problem with it is if you're breeding your own beans.
i'd recommend not reusing the medium that plant is in, as well, and its a good idea to clean your grow room after you cut that plant.
i use physan 20 between grows anyway, if that don't kill it, you need nuclear intervention.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
theres not really a treatment, but you can grow the plant out as long as you aren't cloning. the real threat is that it can spread between plants, but it usually doesn't show up till the next generation, so the only real problem with it is if you're breeding your own beans.
i'd recommend not reusing the medium that plant is in, as well, and its a good idea to clean your grow room after you cut that plant.
i use physan 20 between grows anyway, if that don't kill it, you need nuclear intervention.
Yeah I did take clones off it but that was mainly just to get some practice cloning plus it's already a pretty big plant anyway and i only have 7 foot ceilings, been having to tie it down to try keeping it short.

The clones though are in cubes inside a clone dome and the lower leaves turned bright yellow just a couple days after taking them and they also have black spots on the lower leaves.
I know the yellow is nitrogen deficient but what are the dark black spots?
And with clones am I suppose to be foliar feeding? I have some cal mag plus, maybe I should be misting with that until I have roots popping out of the cubes?

Those clones from the bigger plant will probably be junked. Just want to get some practice in so I don't screw up when I take clones off each of my phenos of alien rift and malibu pie, the bigger plant is different genetics, a bubbilicious cross from a buddy.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
The clones. What would these black specs on the leaves be from?

I've kinda been letting them go because I'm not going to keep any clones anyway until I've finished treating for pests so it looks a little rough. Cloned 6, all 6 survived then I got lazy with the misting because of the bug thing so a few have died.
 

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NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
The bigger plant. Result of a male bubbilicious that was missed outdoors and pollinated a few different strains of female.

It sprouted with the strange hooking of the leaves but was nice and green and vigorous until about a month of age, then it started getting the weird yellow patterning but for some reason most leafs with the patterning only have the yellow blotching on one half of the leaf and not the other. Was transplanted from 3g to 7g with ffof about a week and a half ago.

I'm going to be using organicare organic nutes for this grow and the plant is light green so I'm going to begin mixing in the organic pellets starting on it's next watering.

Any idea what is wrong with this plant though? I found one thrip on it a few weeks ago so I put it in its own tent and treated it with neem oil 3 times, also treated the other plants with neem as precaution when I did that (obviously didn't treat enough since I found a spider mite).
 

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NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
The malibu pies. Not all are able to be seen from these pics. I believe I've got 4 nice bushy looking ones, the other 7 are mostly runts. They were a lot slower getting started than the alien rift but have caught back up because apparently 85 degrees is too hot for my alien rift. Before the cold weather finally came the canopy was hitting highs of 85 to 86 degrees. That's what got me started thinking i had mites because of the leaf cupping of the alien rift at 85 degrees. Temps got up to about 80 lastnight and there was some slight stress/droopyness/cupping with the AR before the lights went out. Anyway, enough on the AR, here's the MP's.
 

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