Is this nitrogen def or cal mag?

Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
NebulousPLM said:
Face palming for two reasons.
1. Not testing PPM - actually if you have time can you explain what PPM really is...
2. My plants are running off onto the concrete floor and sitting in their runoff. Which pretty much solidifies what you said- in essence, I need to elevate my plants.
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Well not as much as i feared. Most growers buy real drip carching saucers if they dont have a drain to waste system going on. The drip catchers dont let runoff go anywhere, an open floor usually lets the runoff go all over and its not as bad. So dont worry, until you get drip catchers and wash your floor. Cleanliness is godliness when it comes to growing, trust me, these are meds we grow. A responsibility not to be taken lightly.
Ppm is parts per million of dissolved solids in the solution. Water is the main part and elements like calcium, nitrogen, magnesium, and others are dissolved in the solution. Parts per million measures the concentration as illustrated on the side of the bottle, 3-2-4 is N-P-K or nitrogen phosphorus potassium. Its just the ratio of the amounts of the macro nutrients in the bottle. Most base nutrients also contain micro nutrients as well but they dont list them. Ppm and EC are the same but different. EC means electrical conductivity. The electrical conductivity of the solution is determined by how much dissolved solids are in the solution. Ppm and EC are measured on a different scale but essentially the same measurement.
Babies need a low ppm, like 200. One footers need more ppm, like 400, two foot vegging plants need more, like 550, early bloom three footers 650, heavy feeding mid bloom 850, finnishing plants dont feed much so back to 400 again. These are just approximate measurements but close.
A ppm meter lets you see into the rootzone and read the plant like a dip stick. You measure what goes in, and every now and then what comes out. And youll understand the plant much better. Cheap ones on amazon are twenty bucks, and get the calibration solution too.
 
NebulousPLM

NebulousPLM

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
Well not as much as i feared. Most growers buy real drip carching saucers if they dont have a drain to waste system going on. The drip catchers dont let runoff go anywhere, an open floor usually lets the runoff go all over and its not as bad. So dont worry, until you get drip catchers and wash your floor. Cleanliness is godliness when it comes to growing, trust me, these are meds we grow. A responsibility not to be taken lightly.
Ppm is parts per million of dissolved solids in the solution. Water is the main part and elements like calcium, nitrogen, magnesium, and others are dissolved in the solution. Parts per million measures the concentration as illustrated on the side of the bottle, 3-2-4 is N-P-K or nitrogen phosphorus potassium. Its just the ratio of the amounts of the macro nutrients in the bottle. Most base nutrients also contain micro nutrients as well but they dont list them. Ppm and EC are the same but different. EC means electrical conductivity. The electrical conductivity of the solution is determined by how much dissolved solids are in the solution. Ppm and EC are measured on a different scale but essentially the same measurement.
Babies need a low ppm, like 200. One footers need more ppm, like 400, two foot vegging plants need more, like 550, early bloom three footers 650, heavy feeding mid bloom 850, finnishing plants dont feed much so back to 400 again. These are just approximate measurements but close.
A ppm meter lets you see into the rootzone and read the plant like a dip stick. You measure what goes in, and every now and then what comes out. And youll understand the plant much better. Cheap ones on amazon are twenty bucks, and get the calibration solution too.
Click to expand...
Okay, so wash the floor? It's a concrete floor, so typically it dries under the lights within a day. Is this bad? It does leave behind a kind of film... I didn't think this would matter. Does it??

So, I take water out of the hose, and let it sit for 24 Hours to burn any chlorine out. I should test my PPM of my tap to determine the amount of nutes to mix in.

So does the NPK relate directly to PPM, as in can I calculate PPM from NPK (more or less since micros aren't listed)?
3-2-1 = 6 PPM?

I guess what I'm asking is how do you calculate the ratio of nutes to mix after you check the PPM of your water base.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
NebulousPLM said:
Okay, so wash the floor? It's a concrete floor, so typically it dries under the lights within a day. Is this bad? It does leave behind a kind of film... I didn't think this would matter. Does it??

So, I take water out of the hose, and let it sit for 24 Hours to burn any chlorine out. I should test my PPM of my tap to determine the amount of nutes to mix in.

So does the NPK relate directly to PPM, as in can I calculate PPM from NPK (more or less since micros aren't listed)?
3-2-1 = 6 PPM?

I guess what I'm asking is how do you calculate the ratio of nutes to mix after you check the PPM of your water base.
Click to expand...
The tap water is probably around 200, well 150-250. You want to take that into account but theres things like calcium and iron in there already and plants need those too. So theres food in that water. Just bring it up to the desired ppm mark and your good. And since there is already some elements in the water you cant use npk to calculate ppm.
The numbers are the concentration of the elements. Like a 16-16-16 fertilizer is going to be more potent than a 0.5-1-0.5. The concentration is stronger in the 16 one so you can dilude it more to hit the ppm you want, aka, use less ;)
 
NebulousPLM

NebulousPLM

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
The tap water is probably around 200, well 150-250. You want to take that into account but theres things like calcium and iron in there already and plants need those too. So theres food in that water. Just bring it up to the desired ppm mark and your good. And since there is already some elements in the water you cant use npk to calculate ppm.
The numbers are the concentration of the elements. Like a 16-16-16 fertilizer is going to be more potent than a 0.5-1-0.5. The concentration is stronger in the 16 one so you can dilude it more to hit the ppm you want, aka, use less ;)
Click to expand...
Alright man, I'm gonna take all of this into account. I'll keep you posted on how everything goes, I really appreciate your help!
Gonna run and get a PPM reader at lunch. So week 5: 650-850 should be my goal?
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
NebulousPLM said:
Alright man, I'm gonna take all of this into account. I'll keep you posted on how everything goes, I really appreciate your help!
Gonna run and get a PPM reader at lunch. So week 5: 650-850 should be my goal?
Click to expand...
I can tell ya if i see the plant size. Remember, the next time you water you need a really good flush.
 
Cl@rksville

Cl@rksville

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
What piece of advice did you give, other than just ask three questions?
To the grower with the problem, cut back on your ferts some.
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Its called qualification, we use it in this country to determine a problem. And although its getting like Poland here, the UK still retains a certain degree of British culture, for instance Polish only have 1 isle in Asda thats dedicated to garlic sausages, jarred onions, pickled cabbage, fish heads, tyskie lager and mayonaise :bigjoint:

@NebulousPLM yes the polish pollacks not talking bollacks the kids right, flush and lighten up the ferts but especially the N.
Be careful with your ppm content, its ok cutting back the ppm but you may be still feeding too much N yer get me? Read a basic NPK and PPM tutorial or PM me and I will send you an easy guide to how it all works.

Cheers and good luck but looking pretty good imo!
 
C

CC Dobbs

Well-Known Member
NebulousPLM said:
Title says it all... I can't figure it out.
This is my first grow, so we're just getting things going. The plants are actually looking really good for the most part, but I have two problem children that I'm dealing with.

The first, which is the focus of the thread is what does this look like to you?
At first, I was thinking nitrogen... But every picture I see of nitro-def doesn't quite look like this... But then I look at the most common, which seems to be Cal-Mag, and I see similarities in this also. Just wanted to see if you guys had any insight?



Sorry lights on for this one.



Diet:
Sensi Grow A
Sensi Grow B
Voodoo Juice
B52
Big Bud

* Been feeding them everyday, but read that may no be the best idea. So cutting back to a 2:1 Feed to Water ratio.
** Plant two:
Definite nitrogen tox right? Should be as easy as a flush?

Click to expand...
The real problem is that you are gullible and somebody talk you into using AN to feed your plants.
 
NebulousPLM

NebulousPLM

Well-Known Member
CC Dobbs said:
The real problem is that you are gullible and somebody talk you into using AN to feed your plants.
Click to expand...
What is your contribution to this post?
I find that RIU has some of the coolest, and some of the snobbiet growers online. Sad you chose the latter ...

Like I said man, it's our first grow. We're definitely still learning, and I'm 100% okay with that.
We honestly started this thinking we were gonna fail, and they've come far enough to a point that I'm proud of. Nowhere to go but up from here, right?

Cl@rksville said:
Its called qualification, we use it in this country to determine a problem. And although its getting like Poland here, the UK still retains a certain degree of British culture, for instance Polish only have 1 isle in Asda thats dedicated to garlic sausages, jarred onions, pickled cabbage, fish heads, tyskie lager and mayonaise :bigjoint:

@NebulousPLM yes the polish pollacks not talking bollacks the kids right, flush and lighten up the ferts but especially the N.
Be careful with your ppm content, its ok cutting back the ppm but you may be still feeding too much N yer get me? Read a basic NPK and PPM tutorial or PM me and I will send you an easy guide to how it all works.

Cheers and good luck but looking pretty good imo!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice man, I've been going a little crazy for Halloween and haven't been able to snap any pictures or really get in there to feed and split.

I went to a grow shop and he gave me something called revive by AN... I was wary, due to the fact that AN catches a lot of shade, but I thought I'd give it a shot..

PPM is still something I'm trying to wrap my head around, and I feel like since we're in the final 2.5 weeks it may be too late to implement on this grow, but it's definitely something I'm going to be keeping track of, come November.

Thanks again!

(Lights come on at 8 PST, so I'll go snap some around that time
 
SamsonsRiddle

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
lol, every time you go to the grow shop they'll have another AN product for you. I'm not trying to be a dick, but AN has endless products that will all be "needed" by time you get your grows going, that's why they catch a bad wrap. Maybe for your next grow if you're not too heavily invested into your products already try a simpler (and most say more effective) set of nutrients like DynaGro or Jack's Classic.

One more for reducing nutrients, say half or a quarter of what your were doing before, especially since you are coming towards the end. And feed every water.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Cl@rksville said:
So no replies in 7 days whats the pity eh! How are they coming along... lets see what the Pollack has to say about this piece of advice! Have you got your meter yet? Is the Ph meter calibrated? Is this HP Pro a cooco coir medium?
Click to expand...
Promix is a brand of soiless medium. Peat. No coconuts in it. The promix hp has added mycorrhizae.
Like in this guys case most new growers dont know that you have to feed it every watering. And then if they ever decide to go from soiless to soil they end up burning their plants from feeding every watering lol.
 
NebulousPLM

NebulousPLM

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
Promix is a brand of soiless medium. Peat. No coconuts in it. The promix hp has added mycorrhizae.
Like in this guys case most new growers dont know that you have to feed it every watering. And then if they ever decide to go from soiless to soil they end up burning their plants from feeding every watering lol.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm probably sticking with this. Might just add perlite for increased drainage. Someone told me worm castings but from what I've read they're high in nitrogen, which I seem to not have a problem with lol.

SamsonsRiddle said:
lol, every time you go to the grow shop they'll have another AN product for you. I'm not trying to be a dick, but AN has endless products that will all be "needed" by time you get your grows going, that's why they catch a bad wrap. Maybe for your next grow if you're not too heavily invested into your products already try a simpler (and most say more effective) set of nutrients like DynaGro or Jack's Classic.

One more for reducing nutrients, say half or a quarter of what your were doing before, especially since you are coming towards the end. And feed every water.
Click to expand...
What I've noticed about AN nute schedule is its really nitrogen heavy.

On half were using big bud and over drive ( one at a time, of corse )
BB 0-1-3 6 ML/ Gal
OD 1-5-4 6 ML/ Gal
---
Then in all of them using
Part A 3-0-0 10 ML/ Gal
Part B 0-0-8 10 ML/ Gal
B52 2-1-4 6 ML/ Gal

Since the problems though, lowering all nutes by 2-3 ML/gal... Seems to be helping the ones that aren't struggling.

I just feel like it's weird because it's inconsistent across the plants.
One of the plants is just killin it. I'll show you when the lights come on, it's doing really well.
Two are close behind it, doing good.
The one with the over fert was doing just as good until a few weeks ago.
There's one that's doing alright, no signs of stress... But not flourishing either.
And then the nitro tox is still in recovery even after the flush.

This entire process has been exciting and nerve racking at the same time! Ha.
 
Cl@rksville

Cl@rksville

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
Promix is a brand of soiless medium. Peat. No coconuts in it. The promix hp has added mycorrhizae.
Like in this guys case most new growers dont know that you have to feed it every watering. And then if they ever decide to go from soiless to soil they end up burning their plants from feeding every watering lol.
Click to expand...
Ah I see its peat... So who's that fat cunt in yer avtar AW is it that bell end comedian out of that crazy film? Ninja summat... farley is it? whats it about man I hope you in't a sausage jockey chap... :hump:
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
NebulousPLM said:
Yeah, I'm probably sticking with this. Might just add perlite for increased drainage. Someone told me worm castings but from what I've read they're high in nitrogen, which I seem to not have a problem with lol.



What I've noticed about AN nute schedule is its really nitrogen heavy.

On half were using big bud and over drive ( one at a time, of corse )
BB 0-1-3 6 ML/ Gal
OD 1-5-4 6 ML/ Gal
---
Then in all of them using
Part A 3-0-0 10 ML/ Gal
Part B 0-0-8 10 ML/ Gal
B52 2-1-4 6 ML/ Gal

Since the problems though, lowering all nutes by 2-3 ML/gal... Seems to be helping the ones that aren't struggling.

I just feel like it's weird because it's inconsistent across the plants.
One of the plants is just killin it. I'll show you when the lights come on, it's doing really well.
Two are close behind it, doing good.
The one with the over fert was doing just as good until a few weeks ago.
There's one that's doing alright, no signs of stress... But not flourishing either.
And then the nitro tox is still in recovery even after the flush.

This entire process has been exciting and nerve racking at the same time! Ha.
Click to expand...
im sprouting three more strains right away and i feed them all the same and they do great. Advanced works for me if i keep it simple. I just run the base A and B, calmag, silica, and ill hittem with a bloom booster once in there, and some rock resonator, oh and some humbolt magnum just because it has sulfer in it. I try to keep it pretty basic, like mostly just a and b plus calmag, silica just makes stronger branches. But i get a bunch of stuff to try for free so I use it. Advanced has lots of extra shit you can buy but if your adding it all at once its easy to run into over feeding problems. This is the best advice i have for you on nutrients....Fertilizer doesnt grow the plants, grower talent grows the plants.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Cl@rksville said:
Ah I see its peat... So who's that fat cunt in yer avtar AW is it that bell end comedian out of that crazy film? Ninja summat... farley is it? whats it about man I hope you in't a sausage jockey chap... :hump:
Click to expand...
Ya its farley. He died of a drug overdose in a hotel room but he made so many people laugh, and it was because he was high as hell. My avi is a tribute to the benifits of drugs. Theres many downfalls to fucking ones life away with drugs, but theres benifits too. Like the kemo patient i deal with that wont eat unless she gets high. Or the anorexic chick that wont eat unless i get her high.
 
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