It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
skiweeds
Active Member
under michigan medical laws, plant count is determined by the amount of root structures. yes it would be considered 1 plant because the scions(plants to be grafted) would have no roots. at least in michigan anyway. hell as long as you had it locked indoors, you could legally have a 20 foot plant. i know a guy that literally has a tree of a pot plant over 10 feet in a green house. he actually keeps a step ladder next to it. check your state laws to be sure though. i dont know if all states go by root count.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Bleaching occurs when plant tissue is killed, for whatever reason. If the tops get overheated, the tissue will die & bleach. with cooltubes, it's pretty hard to get that to happen. Keep about 6-8" spacing between tops & a 1000 in a cooltube and you should not need diffusers.
Not everyone has as much success with aero cloners but if yours works, go with it. I like to clone in RW cubes because the roots are supported within teh cube and are more difficult to damage when planting in the grow media.
Yep, sounds OK.
It's easier to hit the correct pH by dosing the tank after you have topped up with plain water. You'll be prone to overshooting low when you try to top up with pH adjusted water.
Perlite works pretty well. I've never heard of diatomite/higromite/dyna rock 2.
400 & 1000 are, as you note, much more common in public lighting and are thus easier to find. All I can tell you is shop hard, baby.
The commercially made Adjust-a-wings reflectors are made in 2 sections, split down the centreline of the lamp tube. No reason why you can't emulate that style.
No, I don't filter my cooltube air intake, but it's certainly possible. Try some pantyhose material stretched tightly across the intake. Should pass enough air but will catch larger dust particles. Works on my bud dryer. Clean or replace the filter material periodically. You can tell if you're not getting enough air if the surfaces of the cooltube get warm.
Yep, I take the buds off the stem before putting them in the dryer. When I manicure, the fan leaves and larger bud leaves get trimmed off first, then I snip the buds off the stems and finish leaf removal. This way, once the dryer has done its job, the buds are ready to bag up or smoke.
Some ppl use cold water filtration extraction to make hash out of the rather resinous bud leaf material. Me, I can't be fucked to mess with it. All my plant waste (a solidly packed 10L bucket every 2 weeks) goes through a branch chipper, then into the compost. The branch chipper shreds everything into a relatively fine mulch that breaks down in compost really fast, about a week or so until the plant matter is unrecognisable as cannabis cuttings.
Yep, that's what I do around here.
It's always better to be safe than sorry. Where possible, buy from hydro shops, pay cash and do not give a name or address. Operation Green Merchant targeted hydro shops- customer lists were confiscated and used as evidence. If there's no records, there's no evidence. However, this doesn't stop coppers from surveilling vehicles which are used to visit hydro shops. All by itself, though, the appearance of your car at a hydro shop will not constitute probable cause to obtain a warrant to search your house for a grow op. If a cop gets a warrant based on a number plate surveilled at a hydro shop, any good lawyer should be able to get all ensuing evidence suppressed as 'fruit of the poison tree' and any resulting charges should be dismissed (provided you are in the US & exercised your 5th Amendment right to remain silent, throughout any contact with LEO).
VPN isn't a bad idea. Remember, paranoia is just a heightened state of awareness (apologies to Hunter Thompson). If you use Gmail as the interface between you & the hydro shop, better yet. Gmail does not reveal an originating IP.
Get rid of the organic nutes. Return them to the shop & exchange for inorganic nutes. Problem solved.
Some ppl, but far from all, who have used beneficial bacteria report success. ALL ppl who use inorganic nutes & H2O2 have success.
Sorry joe, you MUST follow the mfr's mixing instructions EXACTLY. If the plants are cooked, start over. Make sure you clean, clean, clean and vacuum, vacuum, vacuum your grow op before starting again.
No, it's not possible to graft hundreds of plants together. Impractical. When LEO is counting plants, they're counting rootmasses.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
hey AL im on a full line of inorganic nutes now and have been hiting it with H202 at 7mil per gal. its helping but not 100% killing
this shit im also trying bleach and thats not working either. theres no light leeks in the res and ive got x4 air stones in there
and a pump on a closed loop running 24/7. water temp is 66 to 69F so my Q is how high can I up the H202? its 29% H202
without plant damage.
this shit im also trying bleach and thats not working either. theres no light leeks in the res and ive got x4 air stones in there
and a pump on a closed loop running 24/7. water temp is 66 to 69F so my Q is how high can I up the H202? its 29% H202
without plant damage.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Plants are highly tolerant of H2O2. You can increase the dose by a factor of 10 with no ill effects.
DO NOT USE LAUNDRY BLEACH IN NUTE SOLUTIONS. EVER.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
K say I up the H202 dose from 7ml to ?ml per gal with 29%
at what point if there is will it be a waist, knowing it
wont hurt the plants.
at what point if there is will it be a waist, knowing it
wont hurt the plants.
Encomium
Active Member
Hello and thank you for the extremely informative posts.
I have a few questions on my first grow regarding flushing and replacing my organic nutrients to inorganic.
Some general info: Using ebb and flow with rockwool cubes (roughly 5x5 inch squares) and plants that are 4 days into 12/12 light cycle.
After reading about the Lucas formula I've decided that on my next res change I'll be switching from organic nutrients to the Flora series from General Hydroponics (which I understand is inorganic). I'd also like to use H2O2 as preventative measures. Since I'm using RW as my medium. What would you recommend flushing with? I've read that using 1/4 strength nutrient solution would get rid of more salt buildup than just regular water. What I had in mind was roughly 1 gallon per plant of Ph'd 1/4 strength nutrient solution to flush. Do you think this is enough since RW is such a moisture retaining medium? Should I use both the Bloom/Micro combination when making this weak solution in order to flush? I'm worried about residual organic nutrients being exposed to the H2O2 which I hope to introduce on my next res change so I want to make sure my medium is flushed out enough.
Anyways, thanks for taking the time to help!
I have a few questions on my first grow regarding flushing and replacing my organic nutrients to inorganic.
Some general info: Using ebb and flow with rockwool cubes (roughly 5x5 inch squares) and plants that are 4 days into 12/12 light cycle.
After reading about the Lucas formula I've decided that on my next res change I'll be switching from organic nutrients to the Flora series from General Hydroponics (which I understand is inorganic). I'd also like to use H2O2 as preventative measures. Since I'm using RW as my medium. What would you recommend flushing with? I've read that using 1/4 strength nutrient solution would get rid of more salt buildup than just regular water. What I had in mind was roughly 1 gallon per plant of Ph'd 1/4 strength nutrient solution to flush. Do you think this is enough since RW is such a moisture retaining medium? Should I use both the Bloom/Micro combination when making this weak solution in order to flush? I'm worried about residual organic nutrients being exposed to the H2O2 which I hope to introduce on my next res change so I want to make sure my medium is flushed out enough.
Anyways, thanks for taking the time to help!
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Did you read my last post to you?
Flushing isn't necessary. You can change nute types at will. Flushing with plain water will cause an ionic imbalance in the rootmass and suck nutes out of the plant. Just change nutes to inorganic and keep using them. Don't use the Lucas silliness. Mix to the mfr's specifications. They have done this before!
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
guess there was some cofusion in my Question, what I was asking was knowing theres no danger to my plants at a higher amount, and adding more will
help solve the issue with the slime. how high of a dose have you done?
help solve the issue with the slime. how high of a dose have you done?
medicine21
Active Member
Never made compost. Will it stink of weed?
Encomium
Active Member
Thank you for the info. I'm primarily flushing to remove possible salt buildups in my rockwool. As for the Lucas formula I figured it was the easiest method of measuring and maintaining nutrient solution for a newbie like me. The appeal of having to worry about only 2 nutrients rather than 3 plus additives seems rather nice.
Cheers.
PS. - So I tried ph balancing my GH Micro/Bloom solution and noticed that no matter how much Ph Down (organic) I added it never had any effect? Do I need to get Inorganic PH Up/Down to resolve this?
skiweeds
Active Member
i agree, it would be impractical, and i would never do it, but wouldnt it only count as 1 root mass from the stock plant? of coarse get rid of all root masses of the scions(plants to be grafted) so LEOs dont know. im not experienced with grafting, but its pretty much just sticking the branch of a plant, into another plant right?
on a side note, i say its impractical because if someone wants a big plant, why not just use the LST technique. only down side is longer veg time.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I already told you.
Nope.
Follow GH's mixing instructions, not Lucas.
pH Down is phosphoric acid. Added to a nute soln (or plain water), it will lower the pH (make it more acidic). If your pH meter does not measure a drop in pH, either the pH Down sauce you have is bad or the meter is broken. Test the meter with a known value calibration solution. You will need pH 4.0 & 7.0 calibration solutions to calibrate your meter. Please don't bother with 'colour match' pH measurement kits. Get a proper pH meter and learn how to use it.
Won't work. Wasting your time.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
k well I back track the thread and you said you can up it by a factor of 10. but my Q and I cant find a answer that has been given on how high you
have ever gone with the H202, if this has been already somewhere stated I cant find it.
have ever gone with the H202, if this has been already somewhere stated I cant find it.
Encomium
Active Member
Yea I have a Milwaukee brand Ph meter that I recalibrated right after coming up with no results adding Ph down to my 1/4 strength GH nute solution. Frustrated I added a hefty quantity of Ph Down to the bottle and absolutely nothing happened. Interestingly, adding the same solution to one of my reservoirs did end up with the result I wanted. (reservoir was using organic nutes and the Ph Down labeled "use with botanicare line nutrients" blah blah). I went out and purchased GH Ph Up/Down, dumped the other 1/4 strength nute solution and restarted. The new Ph down worked as intended leaving me with the conclusion that organic Ph up/down doesn't work with inorganic nutrients.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I don't think it's a case of nutrient incompatibility. Try some with plain water. If it doesn't shift the pH, the 'organic' pH down is no good (i.e. just a bottle of water).
The retail hydroponic supplies industry is rife with opportunities for sellers to commit outright fraud. Face it, if you're using the goo to grow cannabis, exactly what consumer protection agency are you going to whinge to?
sparkafire
Well-Known Member
I always report all indiscretions of the hydroponic nature to the YJGF agency, they seem to be on top of it.
DIRTHAWKER
Well-Known Member
Hey AL thanks for the response regarding switching to inorganic...and i will. I was reading up on the harvest a lb every 2 week thread.. and i think you mentioned that you never add nutrients to a half eaten reservoir beacuse you never really know whats in there. my question is how do keep your ppm levels up and steady (1000PPM)during the 2 weeks between res changes? I run a sealed room with co2 and the plants drink up alot of water. I have to top off my tanks every other night and this will throw off the ppms.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
What's a YJGF?
If your res size is well matched to the number of plants, the TDS will remain relatively constant as the solution level drops. 5L/plant is about right. If the TDS is remaining constant as the nute level drops, you don't need to top up. If the TDS is rising as the level drops, the res tank is too small. If TDS is falling as the res level drops, the tank is too large for your application.