It's A Fuct World

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
Shit touchpads suck for typing sorry.

ill cut to the chase. i have been thinking about implementing either your flood system (albiet with less plants) or dwc buckets as i think that with my prior hydro knowledge that i can get faster growth in dwc than in a flood set up and bigger plants. Im quite high and being overly verbose.

Do you think that your system( with a veg period done in seperate room) would perform as well as a dwc set up?
 
Hey Al was wondering if u had any preference over a white vs black flood tray. Also fytocell isnt availabe at my local hydro shop, any comments on hydroton. thanks
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hi al thanks for that. I'm gonna go the denser buds and less work lol. Especially as the yield would probably be the same. Same money+ less work = success!.
Yep.

I was wondering if I could pick ur brain abit on the use of bottled co2 in a grow room. I'm not fully commited yet but pretty sure I will be investing in CO2. I live in the uk and even though we run 240v I don't have the available load capacity to add aircon. I can maintain constant 28`c all day and only really use my exhaust system to replenish the air. I did a test with no plants in the room and a thermostatic fan controller and the temp only got high enough twice throught the day to trigger a air exchange. I have a de humidifier which keeps rh at 40-50%. Knowing this I think I could get away with no aircon, seeing as I'll only be using my fans 2 times per light cycle. I read that plants favour a higher temp and rh when growing in a co2 enriched environment (say 1400 ppm). So al my questions to you are as follows; what is the ideal air temperature?
With CO2, you can run up to about 29C. Above that, THC begins to break down.

What is the ideal rh?
40-60%

How would I recirculate the co2 that isn't used, because its heavier than air and sinks to the floor doesn't it?
Your oscillating circ fans will keep the room air homogenised.

Oh and also could you tell me how I would have the co2 controller doser and monitor rigged up to a fan controller so that when the room reaches a set temp the co2 is shut off and the fans run to cool the room, then when the fans shut off the monitor senses how much co2 has been lost and releases another dose to replenish the room. I found one I like the look of its by echotechnics its the complete co2 package (doser monitor controller) it says it can be used in conjunction with their own fan speed controller but that's an extra £210. Am I going to need this or is there some other way I can rig it up. I know you're a whizz with the tech stuff n thought you'd probably be the best person to ask. Thanks al!
Integrated controllers are really the best way to go if you're going to run CO2- and none of them are cheap. In fact, I have elected not to use CO2 because the cost of the controller, gas & gas bottle rental are so high that I don't think I can justify the expense in my own op. Your mileage may vary. However, if you're going to go to the expense and effort of running CO2, I would recommend that you atomate as much of it as possible. If your op is big enough to justify CO2 (mine isn't), you'll be earning back the purchase price of the system pretty readily. 210 squids isn't that much in the general scheme of things.
Nope I shouldn't lol :eyesmoke: But I've seen mother plants outgrow 5 gallon buckets in DWC.
I really don't think I'd bother with running mums in DWC. It's too easy to run them in a small flood system. Moreover, I'm not a fan of DWC in general due to complexity & reliability issues. If you have an air pump or power failure lasting more than about 3 hours, you can lose the lot. Flood systems are much more tolerant of power failures. a 24 hour power outage is no big deal for a flood system. Much more than that and mums will start to flower- and this can be disastrous. It takes a number of weeks to revert a mum in flower back to full veg mode. This completely fucks the workflow in a SoG op.

Al, I'm growing in a crawlspace where even in the summer temps stay realitivly cool but I'm running six 600 watt hps on three 1000w ballasts with splitters. Right now my temps are around 75-80F but will warm up. I think I read somewhere you recommended cool tubes? If that could drop my temps 5-10 degrees that would be significant. I don't know anyone that uses them but had someone tell me they weren't that good. Would appreciate any input as I'm tired of adding more equipment to my ever growing collection. Thanks in advance.
Hang on- you're running a 2x 600W HPS bottles on a single 1000W ballast? How's that work?

Your flowering room should never exceed 26C.

Anyone who recommends against cooltubes frankly doesn't know WTF they're talking about. Cooltubes are brilliant for controlling room airmass temps. Dramatically improves temp stability. They should run on a closed air circuit; this is to say they should source & dump their air from outside the room airmass. They're essential in ops running CO2 & aircon as they significantly reduce the load on the aircon while preserving the CO2 in the room's airmass instead of blowing it out every time the lighting heats up the airmass. Cooltubes will knock at least half the power cost of aircon in CO2 equipped systems as well as significantly reducing the amount of gas that needs to be dispensed into the room. Crazy not to use them, even if you're not using CO2.

Cooltubes are an excellent investment and well worth there money. Probably pay for themselves after the first crop due to better yield cos u can have ur lights much closer. The glass of my cooltubes sits about 8" from canopy. Since getting cooltubes and dropping them down I have been getting much tighter harder buds.
And fuckin' how.

Normal cooltubes will have a built in reflector which isn't very good as far as reflectors go. This can usually be taken out. I have 2 runs with 2 600s in each. 8" cooltubes 8" ducting and 8" fan. This is overkill for 2 600s but when I bought the cooltubes the plan allways was to upgrade to 1000s. As far as reflectors go you want a wing shaped one like an ajusta wing or something similar. I have cheap imitations which will soon be getting changed for adjustawings. They allow all of the available light to be used that would otherwise be trapped in the reflector or reflected back at the bulb. It would depend on what shape your grow room was as to how efficiently you can cool the lights. If you could have a straight run with rigid aluminium ducting from a 6" centrifugal fan blowing cold air from outside the rooms airmass thru the cooltubes to somewhere else outside the rooms airmass, then I would reckon you could definatly have 3 600s in series. So 2 runs of 3. It also depends on the temp of the air ur blowing from outside. Als thread get a harvest every 2 weeks has quite a lot on the importance and workings of his cooltube system. I think its around page 90 ishhh aswell as a lot of repitition of the information throughout.
Yep, all that. The refs included with most cooltubes are crap. This is why I've fitted mine with Adjust-A-Wings double-parabolic reflectors. 3 cooltubes in series is as many as I'd do- and really does require a centrif blower. Depending upon the centrif blower, you may be able to drive 2x 3 seriesed cooltubes with a single blower. 2 in series can be done with an axial blower. When the air in the cooltubes gets warm enough compared to room airmass temp, heat will be transferred through the ductwork surfaces, into the room airmass, defeating the purpose. If your ductwork is warm to the touch, heat is being transferred into the room airmass. The solution is to wrap the ducts with insulation of some sort or increase the airflow through the ducting with more blower power. Centrif blowers can cope with more bends & airflow restrictions as they can generate a fair bit of pressure, where axial blowers, by their nature, just can't. Pressure leaks backward between the blades of axial blowers.

Hey Al,


Been lurking here for quite a while reading your posts and i have a question or two if you do not mind?

I am in the process of putting together a medical grow op in which i am limited to 45 flowering plants at any given time. In the pre medical days i ran a fairly large NFT op and more recently several quite small personal ops. I am once again in it for the numbers as i am supplying one medical patient and my local coop. or rather will be. Since i was able to run as many plants as i wanted in my large NFT o ( it was illegal so 5 plants or 99 same diff)
While I sympathise with ppl trying to keep an op 'legal' under medical grower restrictions, if you are concerned that LEO will ever be in your op counting plants, your security culture behaviour isn't up to scratch. You can only fuck that up once, so don't. Build up a good op & crank it out- and always remember- silence.

Shit touchpads suck for typing sorry.

ill cut to the chase. i have been thinking about implementing either your flood system (albiet with less plants) or dwc buckets as i think that with my prior hydro knowledge that i can get faster growth in dwc than in a flood set up and bigger plants. Im quite high and being overly verbose.

Do you think that your system( with a veg period done in seperate room) would perform as well as a dwc set up?
Oh, so you're saying you're going to stick to plant count limits? OK. This puts a bit of a damper on things. SoG is not the best way to go if you are sticking to plant count limits, but any method where you are vegging before you flower is going to give you tall plants. Tall plants do not work well under artificial lighting to to limitations on foliar penetration. Any bud more than about 700mm from a 1000HPS bottle (or the focus point of a double parabolic reflector) is going to come up fluffy, wispy & be barely worth your time to manicure in a system where the flowering period is limited to 8 weeks. Somewhat longer flowering periods (to 10 wks) can compensate to a degree for tall plants, but there's other complications that come with longer flowering periods.

DWC is complex, especially when there's a large number of plants, and has an Achilles heel, notably in times of power failures or if an air pump dies. In my not so fucking humble opinion, all DWC ops should have backup power, such as from an uninterruptible power supply capable of sustaining the system for at least 3 days. You should also keep a spare air pump on hand, as a defence against failure of a pump on a weekend or other time when you can't get a replacement pump within a couple of hours.

I'd strongly recommend a flood system; the reliability factor trumps any improvement in yield from DWC. NFT systems are more resistant to power failures than DWC and provide similar levels of root oxygenation, but NFT has its own set of complexities, notably in limited plant portability within the op.

http://www.drugs-forum.com/growfaq/1275.htm I seen this a while back. What do you guys think of the 9 plants per square foot crack? I think this would only work with a sativa. I don't think my whappa girls would be happy that densley packed! What do you think?
I don't think much of it. Packing plants in at that level of density invites poor bud density lower down on the stalks- and powdery mildew is almost a sure thing. Yes, might work- to some degree- with sativas, but I'd never attempt it with an indica dominant hybrid.

Hey Al was wondering if u had any preference over a white vs black flood tray. Also fytocell isnt availabe at my local hydro shop, any comments on hydroton. thanks
The only benefits I can think of for white trays is being able to readily see any mould, algae or fungi growth on the surfaces and to some degree, reflectivity. If your plants are packed in at an appropriate density, the leaves will be using all the light anyway, so the reflectivity is not a big plus. I think I'd stick with plain old black trays.

If you can't get Fytocell, try perlite in pots with a bit of rockwool floc packed in the bottom of each pot- just enough to keep the perlite bits from faling otu of the pot drain holes.

not organic= unatural = effect on natural world
So, water is 'unnatural'? Water is an inorganic substance.

Let's get clear on our definitions here... 'Organic' doesn't mean 'good.' 'Organic' means a molecule was created as an output from a biological system. Also, 'natural' doesn't mean 'good' or 'good for you.' It means 'occurs in nature.' Bubonic plague is 100% natural. Cyanide is also 100% natural. I don't think you want either one in your breakfast.

Far too many people have been sucked in by the marketing tropes applied to the terms 'natural' and 'organic.' No shit- I have seen bottled water labelled 'organic.' The facepalming was painful. If your water is 'organic' then you kinda have to wonder whose kidneys it was pissed out of.

Few things piss me off more than pseudoscience and marketing bullshit. The co-option of terms like 'natural' and 'organic' to mean 'good' is all that.

'Organic' is not always the best way to go- and hydroponic cannabis growing is most definitely one of those situations. In particular, organic nutrients create all manner of problems in hydroponics. You can't use H2O2 with organic nutes; H2O2 is a highly effective system steriliser that releases oxygen into the rootmass whilst stopping pathogens dead in their tracks. Organic nutes demand use of competing microbes for pathogen control- and sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. H2O2 works every single time, when applied regularly. Also, the N, P & K you get from organic nutrients are identical to the N, P & K you get from inorganically sourced nutes- however, organic nutes must break down from their source molecules into the N, P & K that the plants can actually assimilate. The rate of breakdown can be unpredictable. With inorganic nutes, you know what you're getting, every single time. There's simply no comparison to the reliability & predictability you get from inorganic nutes.

If you want to push airy-fairy tree-huggin' hippie crap, there's plenty of places on innumerable cannabis growing boards where you can do that. Don't do it in my threads.
 

Shivaskunk

Well-Known Member
Wow i typed out a huge thank you pressed enter and poof gone. in any case thanks for your input Al. Maybe ill just try your method anyway. No one knows where my op is i just remember the paranoia from my 12k watt days. that was before the medical scene though. Doubt cops are raiding much now.

cheers
 

jasman

Member
Thanks for all that al. Its crazy this is like a job for you. Your away for a day or two and you come back to a ton of messages and still take the time to write back to everyone. Can't knock your devotion to the sport mate. Thanks a bunch!
 

akpaco

Active Member
Thanks for the response Al! I'm using sunpulse splitters which allow me to run two 600W hps off a single 1000w "has to be magnetic" ballast. I will be investing in some cool tubes come this June. I believe the newer ones have a wing type reflector available on them now.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Wow i typed out a huge thank you pressed enter and poof gone. in any case thanks for your input Al. Maybe ill just try your method anyway. No one knows where my op is i just remember the paranoia from my 12k watt days. that was before the medical scene though. Doubt cops are raiding much now.

cheers
No worries. This forum software appears to have some flavour of auto-save for text input boxes. Sorry it didn't work for you! You might consider getting the Lazarus plugin for Firefox. Saves your text and makes it recoverable. Downside- you have to clear out its cache from time to time if you're writing sensitive material that you would prefer not to be recovered at a later date.

Don't fool yourself- cops would be more than happy to raid any grow op they learn about. Paranoia is just a heightened sense of awareness. Use it to your advantage.

Thanks for all that al. Its crazy this is like a job for you. Your away for a day or two and you come back to a ton of messages and still take the time to write back to everyone. Can't knock your devotion to the sport mate. Thanks a bunch!
No worries. I try to keep up with replies but some days (and months!) it's just impossible to do so. Right now, I should be in the op manicuring...

Thanks for the response Al! I'm using sunpulse splitters which allow me to run two 600W hps off a single 1000w "has to be magnetic" ballast. I will be investing in some cool tubes come this June. I believe the newer ones have a wing type reflector available on them now.
I did a little sniffing around on the Sunpulse splitters. Could not find any wiring diagrams. This much I know- magnetic ballasts are L-C (inductance-capacitance) networks that are designed to couple electrical energy into a load of a specific impedance. That specific impedance is an HPS lamp matched to the L-C network of the ballast. The splitter must be comprised of an impedance matching network that will mimic the impedance of a 1000W HPS lamp on the input and not care about the impedance of the load. However, all this means is that the 1000w ballast will deliver 1000W to the splitter, which then couples it to the pair of 600W HPS bottles. There will be some losses in the matching network; how much is hard to say without seeing the schematic, but let's guess and call it 5%. This means that there's 950W available to drive the pair of 600W lamps. Each lamp will be driven with ~425W. Naturally, this means that they're not being driven to full brightness. To be quite honest, I don't think I'd use such a setup.
 

jasman

Member
No worries. This forum software appears to have some flavour of auto-save for text input boxes. Sorry it didn't work for you! You might consider getting the Lazarus plugin for Firefox. Saves your text and makes it recoverable. Downside- you have to clear out its cache from time to time if you're writing sensitive material that you would prefer not to be recovered at a later date. Don't fool yourself- cops would be more than happy to raid any grow op they learn about. Paranoia is just a heightened sense of awareness. Use it to your advantage.No worries. I try to keep up with replies but some days (and months!) it's just impossible to do so. Right now, I should be in the op manicuring...I did a little sniffing around on the Sunpulse splitters. Could not find any wiring diagrams. This much I know- magnetic ballasts are L-C (inductance-capacitance) networks that are designed to couple electrical energy into a load of a specific impedance. That specific impedance is an HPS lamp matched to the L-C network of the ballast. The splitter must be comprised of an impedance matching network that will mimic the impedance of a 1000W HPS lamp on the input and not care about the impedance of the load. However, all this means is that the 1000w ballast will deliver 1000W to the splitter, which then couples it to the pair of 600W HPS bottles. There will be some losses in the matching network; how much is hard to say without seeing the schematic, but let's guess and call it 5%. This means that there's 950W available to drive the pair of 600W lamps. Each lamp will be driven with ~425W. Naturally, this means that they're not being driven to full brightness. To be quite honest, I don't think I'd use such a setup.
Hats off al u da man. I'm switching the last rooms 4 600s for 4 1000s tomorrow. The first room which was switched from 600s to 1000s came out last week. I fucked up abit with them by letting em veg for abit and trying to get a bigger cola, result was whispy buds at the bottom which got hashed and the same 20g ish colas on top. But the 2nd cycle in there is just under week 5 now and I didn't veg those ones, I can allready tell they're gonna b fatties. I'm glad I made the change from the 600s to the 1000s. The cooltube glass sits at 10" from canopy, with the 600s its 8" from canopy. I'm having problems with my first run of mothers tho. I've got 16 in a 4x4 f+d in pots of grodan cubes. But I fucked up and only got a 100l res. They're looking bad and ph is flyyying on a daily basis each is only about a foot tall but I cut the tops to devide growth like u said and they've really bushed out. Allmost to the extent that I feel there's not enough space for them. There is probably enough material to take my 96 cuts allready but I don't wanna take cuts from a mom that isn't happy if u know what a mean. I think I'm just gonna have to cut my losses and rebuild the mother area.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hats off al u da man. I'm switching the last rooms 4 600s for 4 1000s tomorrow.
That ought to make some bitchin' buds.

The first room which was switched from 600s to 1000s came out last week. I fucked up abit with them by letting em veg for abit and trying to get a bigger cola, result was whispy buds at the bottom which got hashed and the same 20g ish colas on top.
Yep. Vegging only makes 'em taller, doesn't help with cola size. Flowering longer may help with cola size but fucks up the flow through the chain.

But the 2nd cycle in there is just under week 5 now and I didn't veg those ones, I can allready tell they're gonna b fatties.
Good news. :)

I'm glad I made the change from the 600s to the 1000s. The cooltube glass sits at 10" from canopy, with the 600s its 8" from canopy.
Cooltubes are brilliant. I've heard ppl carp about light loss through the glass but you more than make up for any loss by being able to run the lamps a lot closer to the canopy.

I'm having problems with my first run of mothers tho. I've got 16 in a 4x4 f+d in pots of grodan cubes. But I fucked up and only got a 100l res. They're looking bad and ph is flyyying on a daily basis each is only about a foot tall but I cut the tops to devide growth like u said and they've really bushed out. Allmost to the extent that I feel there's not enough space for them. There is probably enough material to take my 96 cuts allready but I don't wanna take cuts from a mom that isn't happy if u know what a mean. I think I'm just gonna have to cut my losses and rebuild the mother area.
100L should be OK for 16 mums; pots of mini-cubes or floc should be OK. Are you dosing the mums' tank with H2O2 every 3-4 days? Got any fungus gnat/sciarid fly in there? If the pH is jumping up on you then there's likely some pathogen problems in the mums. Gnats spread fungus & other pathogens. Yellow (or blue) sticky card traps will help sort them out. A flea bomb (set off during a 6hr lights-off period) will help smack them down also. May have to do this once every 2 weeks or so until they're eradicated. Dropping mum pots in the leg from an old pair of pantyhose will stop gnats entering their rootmass. Secure the open end of the stocking with a cut & knotted rubber band, tied rather loosely around the stem. Get any gnat affected mums out of the area quickly and replace them with new clones with pot stocking covers ASAP.

Rotsaruck.
 

itchybans

Member
I need to keep reading your posts. I've been so tired of changing dirty coagulated reservoirs every week cause the hydro guys sold me on organic nutes.

And I stopped using RO water cause of the cost. Now I feel more confident about it. Thanks again!!
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
Al do you buy Canna nutes this size or smaller? big diff in price to the hydro shops with 1L bottles.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I need to keep reading your posts. I've been so tired of changing dirty coagulated reservoirs every week cause the hydro guys sold me on organic nutes.

And I stopped using RO water cause of the cost. Now I feel more confident about it. Thanks again!!
No worries. Nothing beats a clean, clear tank of inorganic nutes. It's so easy to be certain your tanks and plants are pathogen-free with inorganic nutes & regular dosing of the tanks with H2O2. Also, as I've said for many years, and as I'm sure you've just read, RO is unnecessary if you're on 1st-world municipal tapwater.

Al do you buy Canna nutes this size or smaller? big diff in price to the hydro shops with 1L bottles.
Have never bought 1L size; I use 2L per tank dump every 2 weeks. I buy 5L jugs (each, A&B). The next size up available from my supplier is 25L (ea, A&B). The larger size would save me some dough, but is harder to handle. I'm giving it some thought.
 

akpaco

Active Member
Al, This is my fourth grow and my first in hydro. I'm using cap ebb and gro 16 pot system. I'm in my fifth week of veg. I'm using heavy 16 veg a&b,heavy 16 prime,superthrive,sensizyme and calmag. I have a hannah grochek and my ph is steady between 5.7 and 6.0. ppm is around 800 and water temp is around 64-66 degrees. I initially had a little leaf discoloration and added the calmag and it seemed to help. The next res change i eased up on the calmag because it really shoots my ppm up. So this week I upped the calmag again. It's only been a few days but haven't noticed any improvement. The third picture with the rust spots on it seem to be the most common. I've attached some pics. Appreciate any info. Thanks in advance


photo 2.JPGphoto 3.JPGphoto 1.JPG
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al, This is my fourth grow and my first in hydro. I'm using cap ebb and gro 16 pot system. I'm in my fifth week of veg. I'm using heavy 16 veg a&b,heavy 16 prime,superthrive,sensizyme and calmag. I have a hannah grochek and my ph is steady between 5.7 and 6.0. ppm is around 800 and water temp is around 64-66 degrees. I initially had a little leaf discoloration and added the calmag and it seemed to help. The next res change i eased up on the calmag because it really shoots my ppm up. So this week I upped the calmag again. It's only been a few days but haven't noticed any improvement. The third picture with the rust spots on it seem to be the most common. I've attached some pics. Appreciate any info. Thanks in advance


View attachment 2123271View attachment 2123272View attachment 2123270
Pic 1 is straight nutrient burn, the other two could be related, but could also be pH error related, indicative of nutrient lockout caused by wrong pH.

Heavy 16 prime is sold as a bloom enhancer but they give very little information about what's actually in it. From the sales literature, I'm inclined to believe it is an 'organic' nutrient additive and not a flowering nutrient by itself. Strongly suggest you discontinue using it and get a standard inorganic nutrient, such as Canna Aqua Flores or something equivalent from GH, etc. Superthrive is primarily a vitamin B additive. I'm unconvinced of the benefits. CalMag is unnecessary if you are using municipal tapwater in most locations. Most water catchments in North America, UK & Europe have limestone substrata and quite a lot of Ca & Mg are leached into the water as it is stored in reservoirs and travels through rivers & streams. If you have sufficient Ca & Mg in your tapwater, you'll see a TDS reading around 100-300ppm right out of the tap. Sensizyme is an enzymatic agent intended for pathogen control. Enzymes are proteins and are instantly broken down by application of H2O2 (which I don't see in your list of things you're using...) and sometimes work, sometimes don't- mostly don't.

Discontinue use of Heavy 16 prime, Sensizyme & CalMag. Get some proper inorganic nutes as suggested. Dose tanks with 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L every 3-4 days.

Correct pH with a phosphoric acid based pHDown solution as available from hydro shops. Make sure you calibrate your pH meter using standard 4.0 & 7.0 reference solutions before EACH use of the meter. If the meter is not properly calibrated, the readings you get from it are meaningless.

Don't expect damaged leaves to change appearance. Look for new growth to be absent this sort of damage.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al do you buy Canna nutes this size or smaller? big diff in price to the hydro shops with 1L bottles.
Did some checking, found that the 20L size ($308) saves me $2/litre over the 5L packaging ($87). Was coincidentally placing an order with my supplier today & will be getting the 20L size. Hoping there is a tap on these jugs to make refilling 5L jugs a bit easier. I usually keep a pair of 5L jugs in the grow room for handy access- but there's no room for 20L jugs in there. Cheers for the suggestion.
 

akpaco

Active Member
Pic 1 is straight nutrient burn, the other two could be related, but could also be pH error related, indicative of nutrient lockout caused by wrong pH.

Heavy 16 prime is sold as a bloom enhancer but they give very little information about what's actually in it. From the sales literature, I'm inclined to believe it is an 'organic' nutrient additive and not a flowering nutrient by itself. Strongly suggest you discontinue using it and get a standard inorganic nutrient, such as Canna Aqua Flores or something equivalent from GH, etc. Superthrive is primarily a vitamin B additive. I'm unconvinced of the benefits. CalMag is unnecessary if you are using municipal tapwater in most locations. Most water catchments in North America, UK & Europe have limestone substrata and quite a lot of Ca & Mg are leached into the water as it is stored in reservoirs and travels through rivers & streams. If you have sufficient Ca & Mg in your tapwater, you'll see a TDS reading around 100-300ppm right out of the tap. Sensizyme is an enzymatic agent intended for pathogen control. Enzymes are proteins and are instantly broken down by application of H2O2 (which I don't see in your list of things you're using...) and sometimes work, sometimes don't- mostly don't.


Discontinue use of Heavy 16 prime, Sensizyme & CalMag. Get some proper inorganic nutes as suggested. Dose tanks with 50% grade H2O2 at 1ml/L every 3-4 days.

Correct pH with a phosphoric acid based pHDown solution as available from hydro shops. Make sure you calibrate your pH meter using standard 4.0 & 7.0 reference solutions before EACH use of the meter. If the meter is not properly calibrated, the readings you get from it are meaningless.

Don't expect damaged leaves to change appearance. Look for new growth to be absent this sort of damage.
Thanks Al, I have h2o2 and was adding it till one day I had a bunch of brown slime in my control bucket and res. So I stopped adding it and used it only at nutrient change by adding to fresh water and running it through my system. I'm assuming now that it might of reacted with that heavy 16 prime? I'm getting ready to switch over to 12/12 can I change my nutes to canna at that time? What canna products should I use for bloom and should i use any of there additives? What should the ppm's be? I believe my ph has been correct as my OCD has me not only calibrating my meter but also checking it with the liquid almost daily. I have to tell you as a new grower and a first time hydro grower. It's pretty frustrating getting info from these grow shops as its pretty clear they're just interested in selling you the latest and greatest. Also I'm on city water that has an initial ppm reading of 130 and a ph of 6.8 a 7.0. And I have 29% h2o2. Should I do any type of flush before a change my nutes over and because I have possible nute burn? Thanks Al!
 
Top