It's A Fuct World

nothingtodeclare

nothingtodeclare

Active Member
talking about your led grows has anyone tried the bi-spectrum plasma grow lights range in various sizes 150w 200w 300w 400w 600w wondered if anyone uses these done a side by side with hps i am really liking but jus want info if a 200w say will out perform a 600w hps also one other thing that puts me off is the size they look like the lowbay lights factorys have heres a pic jus incase some of you are unknow
an here are some claims like led
1000W Hps : LightPros 300W Bi-Spectrum Induction Grow Light. 300W= 450W LED and 1000W HPS! BETTER THAN LED AND HPS Features

  • 300W induction will REPLACE 450W LED and 1000W HPS! BETTER and MORE EFFICIENT THAN LED AND HPS!!
  • Full light spectrum for plants emitted to help accelerate growth, budding, and flowering!!
  • BULB LASTS 100,000 HOURS and MUCH LOWER DEGRADATION than LED, HPS and T-5/T-8 fixtures!!
  • Light Efficency per watt is 3 TIMES HIGHER compared to LED!!
  • Light stays 75% COOLER and offers 65% ENERGY SAVINGS OVER HPS, but PRODUCES approx. EQUAL YIELDS!!
so yes to all i would like your take on this or shall i just stick with my switchable ballast 400w/600w?????
 
Al B. Fuct

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
whuh said:
Cool so I'll use H202 instead of the Hygrozyme. Is there any specific reason for that? Just wondering out of curiosity since I don't really know 100% what hygrozyme does. Would it be beneficial to use both together?
Click to expand...
Hygrozyme is an enzymatic cleaner. Enzymes are proteins. Proteins are organic matter. H2O2 will break down enzymes as though they were pathogens. So, no, you can't use them together.

So your saying run netpots with hydroton in them and don't put anything at all in the tray? Thats whole lot easier! and less hydroton I'll need! lol
Click to expand...
Yup.

2 questions with that though. My pots are 6" in diameter and 4.5" tall, are those big enough?
Click to expand...
That'll be fine.

Also do I have this right - fill pot with hydroton then stick rockwool in and cover it completely with a 1-2" layer of hydroton then flood my table so the water JUST touches the bottom of the rockwool? If that's right then i will only be able to flood my table 1-2" assuming I'm using 1.5" rockwool cubes. Can you explain this to me if I'm not understanding it correctly?
Click to expand...
No. Fill the netpots with clay pellets. When your clones in RW cubes have rooted, nest them in the pellets 1/2" above the floodline. 40mm (about 1.5") plastic wrapped RW cubes are preferred. See the link in my sig to cloning in rockwool.

Last thing I can think of right now - When you say 1000ppm... My tap water is 133 so does that mean run 1133 or 867? I assume I'd use 1133 but want to be positive.
Click to expand...
The TDS reading you see in your tapwater is from dissolved Ca & Mg. Fert burn is caused mostly by an excess of N. If your tapwater is 133 and you want a nute strength of 1000ppm, aim for 1133ppm.

lowerarchy said:
Automation seems hard, probably because it actually is hard. I was looking into building an arduino-controlled pH doser but when I realized how much time I'd have to spend learning the language, finding the actuators and sensors and stuff, learning how to build it, building it, testing and all that I realized I'd be better off just going into the room every now and then.
Click to expand...
Meh. Timers, for the most part, are generally reliable and don't usually lose programming- but sometimes they CAN. That's why I've invested in an industrial quality tiemr for my water pumps.

Good to hear. That's a good school of thought and one that I'm trying to follow myself. I don't really see the point of getting a massive yield on a gram per watt basis if it takes thousands of dollars worth of equipment, is like working two full-time jobs and takes and extra six months of setup and veg to pull off. Work with the equipment you have, learn the capabilities of your genetics and everything works out well in the long run.
Click to expand...
Simpler is better, every time.

There's a trend in the hobby growing community to buy whatever the fuck comes out in hopes of making astounding personal breakthroughs in growing expertise. I was in my local hydro shop and saw a dozen magnetic ballasts on the used rack for fifty bucks, asked "what's wrong with them?" and the guy just sighed and said "they're from a customer who just learned about digital ballasts." I guess we're easy prey for salesmen because this hobby may lead to a bit of disposable income for some, and what better than to "re-invest" back into the source?
Click to expand...
Some growers are pretty susceptible to a sales pitch. Some are smarter than that...
One more question. Did you ever experiment with staggered lighting? Thread about it:
https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-marijuana-cultivation/376157-staggered-lighting-anyone-tried.html
Click to expand...
That's a silly idea that's been making the rounds for a while. The problem is that cannabis plants don't work like that. Cannabis needs a continuous, uninterrupted 12 hour dark cycle to build up flowering hormone to produce tight, dense buds. This goofy flowering idea tends to yield hermaphroditic plants and wispy buds. Ignore it.

nothingtodeclare said:
talking about your led grows has anyone tried the bi-spectrum plasma grow lights range in various sizes 150w 200w 300w 400w 600w wondered if anyone uses these done a side by side with hps i am really liking but jus want info if a 200w say will out perform a 600w hps also one other thing that puts me off is the size they look like the lowbay lights factorys have heres a pic jus incase some of you are unknow
an here are some claims like led
1000W Hps : LightPros 300W Bi-Spectrum Induction Grow Light. 300W= 450W LED and 1000W HPS! BETTER THAN LED AND HPS Features


  • 300W induction will REPLACE 450W LED and 1000W HPS! BETTER and MORE EFFICIENT THAN LED AND HPS!!
  • Full light spectrum for plants emitted to help accelerate growth, budding, and flowering!!
  • BULB LASTS 100,000 HOURS and MUCH LOWER DEGRADATION than LED, HPS and T-5/T-8 fixtures!!
  • Light Efficency per watt is 3 TIMES HIGHER compared to LED!!
  • Light stays 75% COOLER and offers 65% ENERGY SAVINGS OVER HPS, but PRODUCES approx. EQUAL YIELDS!!

so yes to all i would like your take on this or shall i just stick with my switchable ballast 400w/600w?????
Click to expand...
The lights you're describing are just fluorescents. The claims being made about them are pure bullshit. "INDUCTIVE!" means it's got an iron-cored ballast, like all fluoros. "PLASMA!!!!" means the plasma you find in every single fluorescent light ever made.

This is an absolutely deceptive shyster ploy to make you think these are some sort of special light. Despite all the absurd claims and MULTIPLE CAPSLOCK FAILURES and overuse of exclamation points!!!!! do you see any claims of luminous output? No? Huh, why is that? BECAUSE THEY'RE JUST FUCKING FLUOROS. FOR $995.00!!


Assholes like the sellers of this ridiculously oversold fluoro light should have their balls worked over with a cheese grater.
 
mrduke

mrduke

Well-Known Member
Ahh,, everyone loves the tales of Stoney McDoper. Just wondering do you still prefer your cloning to be done in RW as in your sig. or haveyou moved to a different method? I never seem to have any luck with RW. So I've been using Rapid Rooters at about 80% rate and taking about 15-20 days, can you make a suggestion to speed this up and have a better rate of success. THanks again Al for all your knowledge
 
phxfire

phxfire

New Member
Thanks Al B for the info... This is the (1) of few threads that hAS VERY useful info....

Back to where I left off on the ventilation question... Using cooltubes makes sense but what would you recommend for getting rid of the smell... The budget is LOW... I was looking into carbon filters... I am trying to figure pressure in the room... What size tubes and fans should be used?
 
skinnyone

skinnyone

Well-Known Member
Al B whats your opinion on CMH vs HPS? I have an old bloombox and have been reading on CMH 400w and wondering if it would be worth trying.
 
Ronjohn7779

Ronjohn7779

Well-Known Member
Hey Al do you use 1400 ppm or 1100-1200 ppm start to finish? In your get a harvest every 2 weeks thread you say you do 1400 PPM start to finish and in this thread you're recommending 1100-1200.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks-185.html#post843687
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks-194.html#post866167

I'd like to know since I'm pretty much mirroring your setup to a tee (2 1000w setups, air cooled magnum xxxl hoods, flood tables with 40 gal res, 40 plants to a table, ect..). I'll be basically using Canna A/B aqua flowering and a few additives CANNA PK 13/14 and cal-mag (if needed). The other canna additives seem like a ripoff (one looks to be septic bacteria i.e CANNAZYM, and the other RHIZOTONIC seems kind of hype-ish).

Also what PPMs do you recommend for light, medium, and heavy feeders? My current plant was to use cannas at 1400 ppm flush every 2 weeks and top off the res with tap every few days and ph correct if need be.

FYI tentative setup is (2) 1000w setups, 4 flood tables, 4 40 gal res, 40 plants a table, CO2 generator (got it on the low and will be running it during feeding every 90 mins for 4 mins), Dehumidifier, 4 air stones, and maybe a ductless AC setup if need be, also all the obvious ventilation (fans to air cool the hoods, another to bring fresh air to the room, and one to scrub the air).

Also some quick general questions what size is your dehumidifier (I was looking at 30 pints a day, but it's cheaper to buy a 70 pint a day unit my room is only 9x5x8)?
What sized pumps do you use...I was looking at 250 gal a min or 360 gal a min (for each 40 gal res and table).

P.S. thanks for the kick ass work. Your threads have been highly informative and well written. Thats a true rarity on web forums.
 
Kaptain Kron

Kaptain Kron

Well-Known Member
i like how you can tell me my plants cooked like you were inside my room watching them every day man. I dont care what you guys spend your money on but you honestly make yourself look ignorant when you refuse to recognize something that works i could link you to a bunch of LED grows. If your in so cal and a med patient feel free to hit me you can come look and see for yourself. I follow ALOT of your advise al, because its simple and it straight fucking works. ALL THE TIME. I didnt want to go LED i think your missing that point but since i was forced into it i've learned many things. It's like trying to explain to someone why fuel injection is so much better than a carbuerator. The carb works reliably and great but theres better stuff out there but it costs. Im not asking for you to like LED's but to completely ignore them as even capable of growing decent herb is absolutely ridiculous. un subed to this thread its a pointless waste of time as you said.

Al B. Fuct said:
Yeah. All that. I DO believe that high intensity LED technology will eventually come along that will make growing plants with them a functional possibility, but the limitation right now is the thermal dissipation of the LED semiconductor junction into the substrate. Serious LEDs like Luxeons have to be on a big fuckin' heatsink even now to avoid cooking the junctions and still don't develop the luminous intensity necessary to grow cannabis. Fluoros are a better bet at the moment and even the highest-output fluoros are not up to the task of flowering cannabis.

It sorta works like this: anyone claiming that LEDs outperform HPS lighting almost certainly didn't have a room setup suiting removing the heat generated by HPS lighting. They got a crappy result from HPS because the room was running at 37-40C, reckoned that was the normal result from HPS, so they chucked the HPS & got an LED panel that makes 1/10 the light as HPS. Naturally, it did somewhat better because the plants weren't getting totally cooked, but the result was still shitty, wispy buds as you'd expect from insufficient light.

*sigh*

LED EVANGELISTS: Last time- don't try on the 'LEDs are better than HPS' garbage with me. I know better, mkay?



Heh, sorry... I got a bit windy on that one, but I had a lot to say! If you plan a grow op correctly from the start, you won't fumble through months or years of trying to make a bad setup work correctly.



Oh, OK. Good deal. That sounds pretty good.



Makes sense. Good for your op plans, tho! Lucky you. :)



Yup.



Your cooltube/air cooled hood will allow you to place the lamp a lot closer to the maturing tops than without it. Cooltubes are fantastic for reducing the radiant IR. You can put the maturing tops 6-8" away from a 1000 in a cooltube. The height mismatch isn't that big of a deal; the little 'uns will catch on & catch up within a couple of weeks.



No wucking furries. The way you can pay me back is to get proficient and help other people navigate the learning curve. I've only got so much time to put into commenting on cannabis boards and I'm probably going to have to bail out on RIU again, likely sooner than later.
Click to expand...
 
Kaptain Kron

Kaptain Kron

Well-Known Member
the reason people buy these is because there is no fucking mercury in them they are safer however they cost out the ass to not have to worry about, wow light nazi's in here next i bet you will tell me that CMH is complete bullshit too.

Al B. Fuct said:
Hygrozyme is an enzymatic cleaner. Enzymes are proteins. Proteins are organic matter. H2O2 will break down enzymes as though they were pathogens. So, no, you can't use them together.

Yup.

That'll be fine.

No. Fill the netpots with clay pellets. When your clones in RW cubes have rooted, nest them in the pellets 1/2" above the floodline. 40mm (about 1.5") plastic wrapped RW cubes are preferred. See the link in my sig to cloning in rockwool.

The TDS reading you see in your tapwater is from dissolved Ca & Mg. Fert burn is caused mostly by an excess of N. If your tapwater is 133 and you want a nute strength of 1000ppm, aim for 1133ppm.



Meh. Timers, for the most part, are generally reliable and don't usually lose programming- but sometimes they CAN. That's why I've invested in an industrial quality tiemr for my water pumps.

Simpler is better, every time.

Some growers are pretty susceptible to a sales pitch. Some are smarter than that...
That's a silly idea that's been making the rounds for a while. The problem is that cannabis plants don't work like that. Cannabis needs a continuous, uninterrupted 12 hour dark cycle to build up flowering hormone to produce tight, dense buds. This goofy flowering idea tends to yield hermaphroditic plants and wispy buds. Ignore it.



The lights you're describing are just fluorescents. The claims being made about them are pure bullshit. "INDUCTIVE!" means it's got an iron-cored ballast, like all fluoros. "PLASMA!!!!" means the plasma you find in every single fluorescent light ever made.

This is an absolutely deceptive shyster ploy to make you think these are some sort of special light. Despite all the absurd claims and MULTIPLE CAPSLOCK FAILURES and overuse of exclamation points!!!!! do you see any claims of luminous output? No? Huh, why is that? BECAUSE THEY'RE JUST FUCKING FLUOROS. FOR $995.00!!


Assholes like the sellers of this ridiculously oversold fluoro light should have their balls worked over with a cheese grater.
Click to expand...
 
jojodancer10

jojodancer10

Well-Known Member
hay al, have you ever thought about starting a class on growing, half of riu will be there no matter where it is. your name is golden. even if you put your name on plant food it will sell. just got done replacing the circuit panel for the whole house, now its time to play with some hydroton. thanks for eveything "DR. AL"
 
W

whuh

Active Member
Al B. Fuct said:
No. Fill the netpots with clay pellets. When your clones in RW cubes have rooted, nest them in the pellets 1/2" above the floodline. 40mm (about 1.5") plastic wrapped RW cubes are preferred. See the link in my sig to cloning in rockwool.
Click to expand...
My pots are 4.5" tall, so can I fill them with 3.5" of hydroton then have the 1.5" rockwool sticking out 1/2" over the pot so I can flood my table 3"? or does the entire rockwool cube have to be in the hydroton?

also since I'm using netpots how do I deal with light hitting the roots growing on the outter part of the pot? Not outside of the pot but the roots circling just inside on the edges.
 
jojodancer10

jojodancer10

Well-Known Member
i dont think so, u want the r/w to be a 1/2 inch above the flood line so the roots can grow into the hydroton. then fill the rest of the pot with hydroton. use 1.5 inch r/w. remember only 1/2 inch above the water line
 
W

whuh

Active Member
Thats what I'm saying since my pot is only 4.5" tall,If I put 3.5" of hydroton THEN put the rockwool ontop and fill around the edges with more hydroton. Then flood 3" so my rockwool is 1/2" above the water.
 
jojodancer10

jojodancer10

Well-Known Member
i think you got it boss.but may i ask why do you have 4.5 inch pots? what size is your table? we are all learning here each one teach one
 
W

whuh

Active Member
I see what you mean now. Your saying you think I need to put the hydroton ON TOP of the rockwool too? That's what I thought too, but it seems like Al was saying you don't have to... I'm sure he'll will clear it up lol.

My table is 4'x4'x7" tall. I have no clue why they're only 4.5" tall lol. I just bought 6" netpots thinking they'd be 6" diameter & height.. Anyone know if net pots are usually this short or what the reason is? They're from 2 different places too and they were both that size.
 
jojodancer10

jojodancer10

Well-Known Member
whuh i dont think al will be on rui long, his last post was 2008! he said he was just checking in but if each one teach one we will be ok. im on the same page as u 4x4x7 table 4x4 tent 1000w light, aircool hood, 7 inch square pots lol we are on our way
 
drgreentm

drgreentm

Well-Known Member
if your rockwool is not physically touching the water you shouldnt have anything to worry about exposing the top of the wool for the fact that it should be dry all the time and not the slightest bit damp if its above the water level at all times just the roots should be in the wet hydroton. now if your rw cube is getting wet and not under the hydroton you could get algae and mold from it being damp and exposed to the light.
 
W

whuh

Active Member
jojodancer10 said:
whuh i dont think al will be on rui long, his last post was 2008! he said he was just checking in but if each one teach one we will be ok. im on the same page as u 4x4x7 table 4x4 tent 1000w light, aircool hood, 7 inch square pots lol we are on our way
Click to expand...
He was just here today answering questions. I hope he's not gone yet. I still have a few things to ask. lol
drgreentm said:
if your rockwool is not physically touching the water you shouldnt have anything to worry about exposing the top of the wool for the fact that it should be dry all the time and not the slightest bit damp if its above the water level at all times just the roots should be in the wet hydroton. now if your rw cube is getting wet and not under the hydroton you could get algae and mold from it being damp and exposed to the light.
Click to expand...
cool so it should NEVER get wet? I read somewhere like once a week or maybe month you should flush it or something.. I don't need to do that?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top