It's over 90 degrees in here?!

hepzibah

hepzibah

Active Member
RetiredMatthebrute said:
yes seems the ballast is witchable to different wattages. it also looks like a magnetic ballast so it may be a bit loud, the new age thing is digital ballast.

i would go with the 250w setting for your space, mj is a light whore of a plant it gets difficult to provide too much, so long as you can keep your temps down.

that light prob wont be any easier to cool because it dosent have a air cooled reflector. the ballast is remote so you wont have the heat from that (magnetic ballasts do run hotter than digital ones)

yes im sure you would see a difference in yeilds with a 150w HPS.

if your going to buy a new light get one with a air cooled hood or you wont be resolving any issues you have right now. when i vought my 600w light all i ran was a 6" inline booster fan and ir kept that bad boy nice and cool, finally i upgraded to the 1kw light and a big can charcoal filter so i had to get a vortex fan.
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I think its finally sinking in about the cool tube. I am now looking at this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250w-Watt-HPS-MH-Grow-Light-Kit-Dimmable-Digital-Ballast-6-Cool-Tube-Reflector-/380807014738#rpdCntId

The reflector is only 17-18 inches long so that gives me more wiggle room in my cab. I have no idea what brand it is though... so I don't know if its any good. If I got this 250W light would I need to supplemtent with any CFLs or would this be it?
That LED is up to $77 now and I know NOTHING about LEDs so I hesitate. Although I know nothing about HIDs but am considering it.
 
skrcro

skrcro

New Member
put the carbon at the other end (exhaust intake) so its sucking through it before the journey out the pipe it will work better there also put the intake above your light as close to the roof as possible and your thermometer in the shade at plant level and you can never have to many fans in-line work best for air removal.
 
AdamBlack760

AdamBlack760

Well-Known Member
Get the 250w you want the power
Cool tube is optional. If you do run the tube you want the tube, duct, fan all a straight shot every 90* can cut 20% cfm.
Run 2 3 gal pots set up a trellis net and train your plants.

My first cab grow when I was a kid had a 250 hps in a cab I made 3x3x4 and one 4in pc fan intake and one 4in pc fan exhaust and usually 5* over ambient temps. All lived in my closet.
 
RetiredMatthebrute

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
AdamBlack760 said:
Get the 250w you want the power
Cool tube is optional. If you do run the tube you want the tube, duct, fan all a straight shot every 90* can cut 20% cfm.
Run 2 3 gal pots set up a trellis net and train your plants.

My first cab grow when I was a kid had a 250 hps in a cab I made 3x3x4 and one 4in pc fan intake and one 4in pc fan exhaust and usually 5* over ambient temps. All lived in my closet.
Click to expand...
i would kindly dissagree, wiith his temp problems already i would highly trcomend getting a cool tube.

also the 400w apollo ballast is dimmable to 400/250/150 so....you dont have to run it at full power.
 
hepzibah

hepzibah

Active Member
AdamBlack760 said:
Also check the specs on your fan I've never seen a 4in do over 150cfm
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This said 230 cfm on the box but it is not a typical inline fan. I think it is used to cool a boat motors.....it might have different specs in a closed system. It was only $25. I know nothing but I am just going by what it says on the box.
IMG_1241.JPG
I think I am going to get that cheap 250W kit form ebay. I can't find another cool tube that short. Even if it craps out I can use the cool tube part with another ballast.
 
AdamBlack760

AdamBlack760

Well-Known Member
Looked up that blower. looks like it's rated at 100-125 cfm. It's used to vent engine compartments when going slow from fumes so no explosion. That 230 cfm rating is passive when the boats at speed side scoops grab air into compartment ect. Ramble over.
How are you powering that 12v fan? If not the right power source it's going to spin slow not pulling enough air.
1. Check that fan is power right. 12-14v should draw about 5 amps.
2. Get rid of the duct useless to you with that set up.
3. Check air flow with cab open close cab and check if air flow. Should be close to the same.
 
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hepzibah

hepzibah

Active Member
AdamBlack760 said:
Looked up that blower. looks like it's rated at 100-125 cfm. It's used to vent engine compartments when going slow from fumes so no explosion. That 230 cfm rating is passive when the boats at speed side scoops grab air into compartment ect. Ramble over.
How are you powering that 12v fan? If not the right power source it's going to spin slow not pulling enough air.
1. Check that fan is power right. 12-14v should draw about 5 amps.
2. Get rid of the duct useless to you with that set up.
3. Check air flow with cab open close cab and check if air flow. Should be close to the same.
Click to expand...
I have it wired with this:
IMG_1268.JPG
The output seems to be the same whether door is open or closed.
Duct has been removed from light.
Still have temp issues with door closed.
For now, I am keeping one door open and I will order the cool tube when I am a little closer to flower.
 
hepzibah

hepzibah

Active Member
I finally got my cool tube and after some creative engineering and duct tape it's hooked up and running!
For DIY elbow/reducer see: https://www.rollitup.org/t/reducer-elbow.845133/

I tested today. So far it has been on for 12 hours with the doors closed and it has only gotten to 2 degrees above ambient! (Ambient= 75F)
I only have the ballast at 75%, though. But I am hopefully that 100% won't be much hotter. My temp issues may finally be under control!
image.jpg
 
Flagg420

Flagg420

Well-Known Member
i didnt like my cool tubes, they sit in the hallway now, finally got a pair of vented hoods not long ago :)
 
RetiredMatthebrute

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
looks good man, 77 is not bad and low 80'd is tolerable..

I have a cool tube and a hood. if I had to pick I would pick the hood but the cool tube has served me well in the past.
 
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