I've been hit with powdery mildew help..

FLoJo

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
milk, greencure, h202, potassium bicarbonate, baking soda spray, all this shit is just a bandaid!!

PM is a systemic fungus, which will NEVER go away unless you fix it.. all it needs is a few hours of proper conditions, and you have another problem.

Meltatox is a systemic fungicide that is proven to work, Eagle EW20 is a fungicide which is proven to prevent PM on dogwood trees OUTSIDE, in optimal breeding conditions.. i have no doubt it will work for indoor eradication.

sulphur burners are the only other practical way of controlling PM since they create a fine fog which will coat ALL surfaces in your grow room and prevent the propogation of PM. sprays and all that shit will work, but you have to hit EVERY spore in the room, every leaf, every nook and cranny, EVERYWHERE otherwise within a few days you will see it again.

sulphur burners coat the entire room, and destroy every living spore in its radius, as well as prevent the hyphae from colonizing the leaf surfaces.

i believe that a combo of systemic fungucides and sulpher burning can eradicate pm completely.. i will know in a couple weeks and will keep yall updated..
 
FLoJo

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
oh ya and got the eagle ew20 at tampa agricultural products google tampa ag... i think you can also get it at rosemania.. it stays in the plant for 30 days so i wouldnt spray it past a week or 2 in flower
 
vapedg13

vapedg13

New Member
FLoJo said:
milk, greencure, h202, potassium bicarbonate, baking soda spray, all this shit is just a bandaid!!

PM is a systemic fungus, which will NEVER go away unless you fix it.. all it needs is a few hours of proper conditions, and you have another problem.

..
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I think we covered.... that even sulfur is a bandaid...got the website http://www.tampaagriculturalproducts.com/eagle-20-ew.html

vapedg13 said:
PM is freakin herpes for weed....you can control it but it always comes :backkiss-ass:

Powdery Mildew (PM) is a systemic problem coming from within an infected plant. What you are seeing (the white powderey looking substance) on the leaves is the flowering body of the fungus- the hyphae live within the plant. By the time you can visually identify the problem it's already well established within the plant. No external treatment (like sulphur) can fix the problem.

PM proliferates in shaded and low-light areas of gardens where the humidity is raised; obviously countering these grow room conditions will slow the spread but it won't truly eliminate the fugus from the plants.

The same is true for sulphur applications; be it from a sulphur burner or from a solution such as Safer's Defender. Sulphur will prevent the growth of PM where it is present on the leaf, but the PM still exists within the plant.... not to mention sulphur applications negatively affect the taste of the final product; it seems to concentrate on the resins and an experienced or trained palate will always be able to tell if there was sulphur applied to the plants from how the hash smokes. I recommend using sulphur on vegging plants NOT flowering plants

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Sulphur inhibits the growth on a cellular level by interfering with biological processes opf the fungus this is also well documented on the scientific literature.

A higher pH spray does help to slow the fungal growth, but this is not the reason sulphur and potassium bicarbonate are used to combat PM.
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FLoJo

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
yes i will agree that a sulphur burner by itself is a bandaid, however it is still the most effective method of prevention.

a single spore can sit in your carpet, on a wall, or on a fan blade, and propogate a whole room, even if you spray down every single plant..

a sulphur burner on the other hand, will fill every single nook and cranny with sulphur, and kill all spores in the area. the REASON that a sulphur burner is not a cure all is because it can only kill the spores, however it cannot kill off the actual fungus that resides inside of the plant. this means that when conditions become favorable it will reproduce again...

that is why if you use a burner, to kill and steralize everything, and then a systemic fungus to actually attack the fungus itself (and not the hyphae) complete control can be achieved...

if you just use the fungicide by itself, spores can remain in your room, and after the 14-30 day life of the fungicide wears away, the remaining spores can reproduce and you will have a vicious cycle on your hands..

PM can be eradicated, but several means of attack must be used in order to kill what is inside the plant, and outside the plant.. i will keep yall updated on my progress.... seen a friend battle it now for 3 grows and its time to annihilate this shit
 
vapedg13

vapedg13

New Member
I love the smell of Rotten Eggs in the morning...it smells like my neighbor is using his sulfur vape again :)
 
J

JoeCa1i

Well-Known Member
Gotta lower your humidity,you should also get a dehumidifier.Grow mildew resistant strains next time.
 
DTR

DTR

Active Member
3weeks into flower with pm greencure otw its been ten days since the sulphur spray i see no visable signs of the mildew theres alot of new growth at the bud sites and id hate to cover all that green in sulphur should i reaply the sulphur spray then a week later use the greencure for the last month or should i wait till it gets here and just use greencure till the end also should I wash the sulphur off with high Ph water or should I leave the sulphur on?
Thanks again for your help.
 
saycheese

saycheese

Member
im 4 weeks into flowering and just starting to see a bit ona few leaves show up again. my question is if i use milk or greencure will i have issues when im drying and curing the bud after harvest. and if there is a bit of mold in the bud and i smoke it is that bad? if the bud is caked in mold id throw it out but i doubt it will get that far...
 
FLoJo

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
pm doesnt really effect the buds except in really bad cases.. 99 percent of the time you can trim off the small leaves effected
 
MeJuana

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
Good thread.. I want to use a sulphur burner through my whole grow, right up to harvest. I run an Aero NFT Stinkbud system, which is partially open res. Now I assume I will have to seal it up, but how sealed will my water system need to be?

Thinking I use 4 inch square PVC so I will chop 4 inch cut outs in the side of the res to lay the square pvc into for a tight seal and then just use a full lid on top. I have holes in the top now and it sets over it to drain in, way exposed...
 
PurfectStorm

PurfectStorm

Well-Known Member
MeJuana said:
Good thread.. I want to use a sulphur burner through my whole grow, right up to harvest. I run an Aero NFT Stinkbud system, which is partially open res. Now I assume I will have to seal it up, but how sealed will my water system need to be?

Thinking I use 4 inch square PVC so I will chop 4 inch cut outs in the side of the res to lay the square pvc into for a tight seal and then just use a full lid on top. I have holes in the top now and it sets over it to drain in, way exposed...
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#1 im pretty sure you cant use a sulphur burner up to harvest, because it will make ur buds smell like rotten eggs. and yes, ur system will need to be sealed or ur gonna have some serious ph issues.
 
MeJuana

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
I am spraying them with 1/5th milk water ratio and they are two weeks out right now.. Now true I have harvested and smoked buds sprayed up to 3 days before harvest and didn't taste any milk.

Researching people whom use this up til the day of harvest say the bud smells like bud, the room smells like rotten eggs. So I thought I have a couple weeks on these ones, maybe I could just run a burner to see what it was like. I realize sulfur is going to effect PH and cause lockouts, gotta deal with that.

Any others using this through the whole grow? I am dying from PM here.
 
C

Coals

Active Member
vapedg13 said:
I never had pm until i was given a clone with it ....Yes it spreads on to other plants ...some strains are pm resistant like bubba kush ...white widow
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ya, I never had any powdery mildew untill today. I picked up 10 bubba kush clones 5 days ago. 6 of the 10 clones have PM just starting on them. I dont think bubba kush is all that resistant, the PM definetly came from them and they are in the same chamber as my blue cheese mommy. I'll shit if she gets infected but after reading this thread, I think its probably too late.
 
MeJuana

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
Coals said:
ya, I never had any powdery mildew untill today. I picked up 10 bubba kush clones 5 days ago. 6 of the 10 clones have PM just starting on them. I dont think bubba kush is all that resistant, the PM definetly came from them and they are in the same chamber as my blue cheese mommy. I'll shit if she gets infected but after reading this thread, I think its probably too late.
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I am in the same boat, my beloved HeroJuana OG is now infected too. It's been a month or more since I have known and I still have a lump in my throat when I think about it. Pisses me off, now I am looking for a clean copy.
 
BizarroOH!

BizarroOH!

Well-Known Member
contrary to popular belief, you can use sulfur burners in the flowering period. Set your sulfur burners timer to 30-45 min a day, and stop using it 2 weeks before harvest. For those last 2 weeks I spray actinovate on my ladies if there is another outbreak. The "america fuck yeah!" guy on here told me this, so it is not bullshit. I have had great results with this method. My super lemon haze mom seems to be resistant, and I feel like og kush, or other og crosses are really susceptible to PM. I use to grow banana kush (banana x og kush), but it gets PM to easily..
 
MeJuana

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
I am using Clevis with MJ with no ill effects, it is a mix of Eagle 20EW and another product. It is very hard to deal with you have to use PPE just like Eagle, but once applied that is it for PM for 30 to 45 days.. Also the application rate isn't real clear but I used it pretty heavy with no ill effects. (1 level tsp per 5 gallons)

If you miss a shoot off the plant it will be localized out breakers on that shoot of the plant only.. Pretty funny shit, and especially lets you know the rest of the plant is protected! So treat only that shoot you missed. If you are doing this right you will have to fight out the last couple weeks by hand because the Clevis should be degrading by the time harvest happens.
 
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