• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

I've been lucky.

NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
look at the soil in the cup, it's got those little "bubbles" of nutes. i was hypothesizing that several of those happened to be in contact with the roots at the same time, and that's where the burn came from.....which is one reason i hate those things...
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Like time released nute? Light warrior doesn't use those? Could you be seeing perlite?
 
TacoMac

TacoMac

Well-Known Member
Roger A. Shrubber said:
look at the soil in the cup, it's got those little "bubbles" of nutes. i was hypothesizing that several of those happened to be in contact with the roots at the same time, and that's where the burn came from.....which is one reason i hate those things...
Click to expand...
According to the soil mix, that is perlite. The soil itself contains no time release nutrients.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
Looked real hard again....

I still say it's just setting her pH to the soil.....some minor blocking as the plant and her roots grow into, and set the soil pH...keep an eye on the new growth.....Bet the "problem" just go's away on it's own..

I see that same thing in some strains as they go from rapid rooters to setting roots and the soil pH in being moved to Solo's.
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I will say this... last run with the same genetics was challenging. She is a picky feeder, super sensitive to pH fluctuations, hates even a little too much N... just generally a bitch to grow. The final product is worth the ass ache.
 
ColoradoHighGrower

ColoradoHighGrower

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
Ahhhh... like a little microclimate betwen the top of the soil and the top of the cup? Never really considered that as I've never had a problem starting in solos.
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I still consider myself a noob, but here's some of my experience on topic: Just fill solo up all the way with your soil when you plant, if worried about excess humidity (which seedlings generally need anyway). Not really following that point, since all my seedlings/clones are kept in a humididome at about 95% rh for first week or so anyway. Also, big fan of up-potting to force root development in stages, and to avoid an overly large pot from sitting damp for weeks with no roots to use that moisture up. You'll find yourself asking "when was the last time i watered? Two weeks ago?"

I germ in seed starters or solo cup, up-pot to a quart>1 gal>5 or 7gal>final pot if going larger. One trick i saw here on riu is nesting a clear solo inside an opaque one, so you can easily monitor root development in the solo cup for optimizing timing of that first critical up-potting.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
ColoradoHighGrower said:
I still consider myself a noob, but here's some of my experience on topic: Just fill solo up all the way with your soil when you plant, if worried about excess humidity (which seedlings generally need anyway). Not really following that point, since all my seedlings/clones are kept in a humididome at about 95% rh for first week or so anyway. Also, big fan of up-potting to force root development in stages, and to avoid an overly large pot from sitting damp for weeks with no roots to use that moisture up. You'll find yourself asking "when was the last time i watered? Two weeks ago?"

I germ in seed starters or solo cup, up-pot to a quart>1 gal>5 or 7gal>final pot if going larger. One trick i saw here on riu is nesting a clear solo inside an opaque one, so you can easily monitor root development in the solo cup for optimizing timing of that first critical up-potting.
Click to expand...
I follow a very similar transplant regime. Has always worked well for me.
 
ColoradoHighGrower

ColoradoHighGrower

Well-Known Member
Those are def little nute nodules in the soil. Probably time-release, but who knows how hot that could get after a few days of dampness...
 
TacoMac

TacoMac

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
Trust me, they're not. I use FF LW as a seed starter all the time. No time released nutrients.
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You didn't happen to use an already opened bag, did you?

I mean, is it possible you had another mix you stored in that bag and those are in fact nutrient granules?
 
TacoMac

TacoMac

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
Brand new bag.
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Then it can't be nutrient burn (although it does look like it). According to the label, this is the mix:

Contains an organic blend of mycorrhizal fungi (a powerful root stimulator), sphagnum peat moss, horticultural perlite, earthworm castings, granite dust, humic acid and oyster shell (for pH adjustment). Great for starts, transplants, and growing plants indoors and outdoors.
Click to expand...
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
NanoGadget said:
I will say this... last run with the same genetics was challenging. She is a picky feeder, super sensitive to pH fluctuations, hates even a little too much N... just generally a bitch to grow. The final product is worth the ass ache.
Click to expand...
My Bruce Banner pheno is the bitchy one here. I got a few that are N sensitive but, that Bruce and a Dos-i-Dos cut I have are the worst.....

With all the strains I run....I have 3 different feeding mix's going right now.....Bloom.
Veg is always run towards the N sensitive one's....
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
TacoMac said:
Then it can't be nutrient burn (although it does look like it). According to the label, this is the mix:
Click to expand...
Thats the stuff... thats why i started leaning towards pathogens. I may quarantine it under a different light until i figure out the problem for sure.
 
grilledcheese101

grilledcheese101

Well-Known Member
Ive just recently ran into similar issues on a slifhtly larger scale, was chasing yellowing, slow growth and sad babies in an organic setup (havent had issues or needed to ph in 2 years) .. Took me atleast a week to realize maybe my soil mix wasnt to great, after reasearching and leaching some test pots, shitty cheap coco coir from sri lanka was essentially soaked in sodium chloride (salt water) and was not only stunting my plants but killing all my microbial life. I flushed about 20 gal thru 5 gal of coco and after sitting for a week it would drain almost fkn red. I say all this to say, go over your entire grow a couple times, and then tripple check, it will be something so stupid youll never think of touching said thing again.
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
grilledcheese101 said:
Ive just recently ran into similar issues on a slifhtly larger scale, was chasing yellowing, slow growth and sad babies in an organic setup (havent had issues or needed to ph in 2 years) .. Took me atleast a week to realize maybe my soil mix wasnt to great, after reasearching and leaching some test pots, shitty cheap coco coir from sri lanka was essentially soaked in sodium chloride (salt water) and was not only stunting my plants but killing all my microbial life. I flushed about 20 gal thru 5 gal of coco and after sitting for a week it would drain almost fkn red. I say all this to say, go over your entire grow a couple times, and then tripple check, it will be something so stupid youll never think of touching said thing again.
Click to expand...
I might be quicker to blame the soil, but I've had great success with the FFLW many times, and the other seedling is thriving in the same medium in the same exact enviroment. Oh well. Time to medicate and relax before I get too worked up about .. lol.
20181105_143203.jpg
 
NanoGadget

NanoGadget

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
It's not pathogen related.....NOT AT ALL!

Good grief....
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I was just being overly cautious. As I was saying earlier, the other seedling in my space is irreplaceable to me. I actually think I figured out the issue, and it is actually all grower error if I'm right.
 
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