I've come to the terms that I'm a total idiot growing this. I need any and all help.

Sage Nyx

Member
Alright. This is my first time growing and definitely a first of delving into the depths of weed paraphernalia. Of course, me being the silly self I am, planted the seeds first and looked up information afterward. Hooray! I have realized I r n00b and all that, haha so please bear with me.

So I planted them October 10th and they look like this now:


The medium; which I now see as bad because upon closer inspection is called " 'Gardenese' Top Soil ".


And this is the area in the attic; which has good sun coverage.
I live in Louisiana which hardly recognizes the definition of winter. So it seams pretty safe for now to keep them there.


I need to get a hydrometer and many other things as well... But I need major advice for a completely novice grower; any and all is appreciated on what my next steps should be :)


I have been questioning some things for a while.
First and foremost is, should I begin the process of making them flower now, and when I see the differentiation between them, immediately separate the females from males?
Also, I still want to have seeds, so should I grab a few males n' females to stick outside together, or something?
If the temperature happens to drop below 60 for the colder months, should I go ahead and buy something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Atlantis-Hydroponics-Complete-Propagation-Kit/dp/B0012BGXF2/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1256155774&sr=1-12

Thank you for taking the time to read this; hopefully someone out there can shake my stupidity >.<
 

Anjinsan

Well-Known Member
A) One plant per pot. Those roots will be a tangled clusterfuck in about 2 days. (they will not show sex for ATLEAST one month...they will be atleast 10" tall each by then...and probably just as wide) Good luck separating them then.

B) Never use clear containers. Roots are harmed by light...light can pass through clear containers.

Other than that though you are off and running. (Oh did I forget to mention that each plant will grow to be bigger than that window?)
 

Clevelandblazn5

Active Member
well you need a couple basic things (lighting, some pots, good soil, fans, etc.. this is my first grow i got all my shit from htgsupply.com i reccomend foxfarms ocean forest soil, you can get a 1.5 cubic ft bag for 20 bucks on there its a good amount, i spent 300 and got a 600w mh and hps bulb with hood and balast and if your gonna grow in a closet you need some sort of ventalation so you would need a fan to push the air out of the room and a oscelating fan to just move air around the room
 

keico

Well-Known Member
"Alright. This is my first time growing and definitely a first of delving into the depths of weed paraphernalia. Of course, me being the silly self I am, planted the seeds first and looked up information afterward. Hooray! I have realized I r n00b and all that, haha so please bear with me."

No problem we were all noobs at one time

So I planted them October 10th and they look like this now:

Well very good at least they sprouted. Only mistake is putting all those seeds in one container.

The medium; which I now see as bad because upon closer inspection is called " 'Gardenese' Top Soil ".

You can use top soil, but you need to mix it with some peat moss, coco, promix, etc.

Also some perlite for drainage.

While seedlings are young they don;t need fertilizer at least for the two weeks.

Also clear containers are not good as sunlight can get to the roots, and that is a no no

And this is the area in the attic; which has good sun coverage.
I live in Louisiana which hardly recognizes the definition of winter. So it seams pretty safe for now to keep them there.

You can grow in a window sill but I definitely advise against it. You can use direct sunlight, but starting off the plants will need continuous light more than 12 hours.

I need to get a hydrometer and many other things as well... But I need major advice for a completely novice grower; any and all is appreciated on what my next steps should be.

You do not need a hydrometer to grow. You need light (CFL or HID)

Soil a good mixture

Grow medium (Pots 1qt, 3gal, 5gal) all depending on how much space you have to work with

Ventilation

You need to keep temps 70 - 85

Also some type of fertilizer for vegging and flower.

I would suggest to aquire all the supplies, then setup a closet grow, or some grow box.

You will get out what you put into this grow

I have been questioning some things for a while.
First and foremost is, should I begin the process of making them flower now, and when I see the differentiation between them, immediately separate the females from males?

They are way to young to sex. They have to grow for a while and mature, then you can sex them.

Also you can't grow all those together in that pot. The roots will compete for space and nutrients. It will be one tangled mess of roots

Also, I still want to have seeds, so should I grab a few males n' females to stick outside together, or something?
If the temperature happens to drop below 60 for the colder months, should I go ahead and buy something like this?

Before you jump into breeding get a couple grows under your belt. Start with bagseed. Collect seeds from what you have been smoking. That is what I did. I have a couple hunderd seeds from collecting

Thank you for taking the time to read this; hopefully someone out there can shake my stupidity

The only stupid question is the question not asked.

Finally take it slow. Get your supplies and ask questions

Hope the advice helps
 

Sage Nyx

Member
Thanks so much for all of the replies, and especially to keico for being so descriptive :D

With more answers comes more questions!

Would it be a good idea to get a box with reflective paper on its walls, having the separated seedlings in there with a lamp, fan and still have it in an attic?
-I just have so much more space in there, I would love to have it in there versus my closet-

As far as the medium goes, should I just use one singular soil, (ie: FoxFarms Ocean Forest Potting mix, or Black Gold) or have a mix of some good quality soil + Perlite + Coco Peat? Or maybe just getting Pro-mix?

Would it be better to have a pot with holes for drainage or a sealed one?

I'm not sure how much wattage I need; what would be sufficient for about 10 plants?
 

Anjinsan

Well-Known Member
Thanks so much for all of the replies, and especially to keico for being so descriptive :D

With more answers comes more questions!

Would it be a good idea to get a box with reflective paper on its walls, having the separated seedlings in there with a lamp, fan and still have it in an attic?
-I just have so much more space in there, I would love to have it in there versus my closet-

As far as the medium goes, should I just use one singular soil, (ie: FoxFarms Ocean Forest Potting mix, or Black Gold) or have a mix of some good quality soil + Perlite + Coco Peat? Or maybe just getting Pro-mix?

Would it be better to have a pot with holes for drainage or a sealed one?

I'm not sure how much wattage I need; what would be sufficient for about 10 plants?
10 plants? 1000 watts. That is being conservative. I use 280 watts PER plant using cfls.

There are stickied threads at the top of every forum and sub-forum in this web site. FULL of useful info...you will get your answers 100 times faster by reading.
 

keico

Well-Known Member
Thanks so much for all of the replies, and especially to keico for being so descriptive :D

No problem I am always glad to offer advice

With more answers comes more questions!

Would it be a good idea to get a box with reflective paper on its walls, having the separated seedlings in there with a lamp, fan and still have it in an attic?

-I just have so much more space in there, I would love to have it in there versus my closet-

I agree if you have more space in the attic, go for it. This will give the plants plenty of room to grow. Just watch your temps. Try to keep them in the range I said earlier.

As far as the medium goes, should I just use one singular soil, (ie: FoxFarms Ocean Forest Potting mix, or Black Gold) or have a mix of some good quality soil + Perlite + Coco Peat? Or maybe just getting Pro-mix?

The mix I use works great.

1 part foxfarm Ocean forest

2 parts peat moss

30% perlite

you can start seedlings in that after they have been started in jiffy starter cubes. From there you can transplant into a 1 quart container.

It all depends on what size pot you want to use 3 gallon or 4, 5 its up to you.

But based on your pot size you can then add blood meal, bone meal, dolomite lime.
(There are a lot of different mixes out there). It all depends on whats available in your area.

If you want more info onsoil mixes I can point you in the right direction.

Would it be better to have a pot with holes for drainage or a sealed one?

You definitely need drainage. Don't use a sealed one. If that's all you have you can always drill holes for drainage

I'm not sure how much wattage I need; what would be sufficient for about 10 plants?

All depends on if you are using cfls or HID. CFLs work but in my opinion plants grow slower under cfls, and require more work because of maintaining a certain proximity to the plants.

If this is your first grow save your self a head ache and just get an HID system.

Good luck and feel free to keep asking
 

keico

Well-Known Member
Here are some soil mixes you can use

I am sure there are more

Blazeoneups soil recipe

2 cubic- feet Miracle Grow Organic Choice (green bag)

3.8-4.0 cubic feet- Promix/Sunshine Mix #4 (If not, it can be substituted with Peat Moss)

1 Cup Miracle Grow Blood Meal

1 Cup Miracle Grow Bone Meal

1/2 cup dolomite lime (1 cup if you're using peat moss)

30% perlite (chunky perlite is preferable)

Mix the soil well and just plant or transplant into it.

It can be seedling or clone friendly, but if you're dealing with seedlings, I'd start them in small containers with this mix minus the bone and blood meal.

This mix can last up to 20-30 days veg and throughout all of flower WITHOUT adding any nutrients in your feedings at all. All you need to do is water them from your tap and you do NOT need to PH at all. That's probably the most noob friendly it can get.


LC’s Soiless Mix #1:
5 parts Canadian Spaghnam Peat or Coir or Pro-Moss
3 parts perlite
2 parts wormcastings or mushroom compost or home made compost
Powdered dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.

Or, if you use Pro Mix or Sunshine Mix...
LC's Soiless Mix #2:
6 parts Pro Mix BX or HP / Sunshine Mix (any flavor from #1 up)
2 parts perlite
2 parts earthworm castings
Powdered (NOT PELLETIZED) dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.
If you use a 3 qt. saucepan as “parts” in the amounts given above, it equals about 1 cu. ft. of soiless mix and you can just dump in a cup of powdered dolomite lime.
But, a "part" can be anything from a tablespoon to a five gallon bucket. Just use the same item for all of the "parts".

Now for the plants organic food source

Choose one of these organic plant food recipes to add to LC's Soiless Mix.

RECIPE #1
If you want to use organic nutes like blood, bone and kelp...
Dry Ferts:
1 tablespoon blood meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
2 tablespoons bone meal per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
1-tablespoon kelp meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix or Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract as directed
1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of Jersey Greensand to supplement the K (potasium) in the Kelp Meal and seaweed extract.
Mix all the dry ferts into the soiless mix well and wet it, but don't soak it with Liquid Karma and water @ 1 tbs./gal. Stir and mix it a few times a week for a week or two so the bacteria can get oxygen and break down the bone meal and make it available. And don't let the mix dry out, keep it moist and add water as needed. It'll also have time to get the humic acids in the Liquid Karma going and the dolomite lime will be better able to adjust the pH of a peat based mixture too.
With this recipe, all you need to do is add plain water until harvest.
When I'm working with seeds, I punch a hole in the bottom of 16 ounce cups and fill them with plain LC's Mix. Lightly wet the mix in the cups and germ one seed in each cup. At the same time I mix enough LC's mix along with the blood/bone/kelp to fill all the 3 gallon flower pots I'm going to use for the grow. After about two weeks, the seedlings and the blood/bone/kelp mix are ready. I transplant the seedlings into the 3 gallon pots and just add water until harvest.
When you go to flower and pull up the males, save the mix in the pots. It is ready to be used again immediately. Just remove the root ball and transplant another seedling into it.

RECIPE #2
If you want to use guano in your soil mix...
Bongaloid's Guano Mix.
Use all these items combined with one gallon of soil mix.
1/3C hi N Guano (Mexican Bat Guano)
1/2C hi P Guano (Jamaican or Indonesian Bat Guano)
1TBS Jersey Greensand
1TBS Kelp Meal


RECIPE #3 (My favorite)
If you want to use guano tea and kelp...

Guano Tea and Kelp:

Seedlings less than 1 month old nute tea mix-
Mix 1 cup earthworm castings into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.
Add 5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses.
Use it to water your seedlings with every 3rd watering.

Veg mix-
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 1 cup of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.
To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
Use it to water with every 3rd watering.

Flowering nute tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 2 cups of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.
To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
Use it to water with EVERY watering.

You can use queen size knee high nylon stockings for tea bags. 3 pair for a dollar at the dollar store. Tell 'em you use them for paint strainers. Put the recommended tea in the stocking, tie a loop knot in it and hang it in your tea bucket. The tea should look like a mud puddle. Agitate the bag in the water vigorously. An aquarium pump and air stone will dissolve oxygen into the solution and keep the good bacteria (microherd) alive and thriving. Let it bubble a day or two before you use it. If you find you are making too much tea and having to throw it out, use 2 1/2 gallons of water and cut the nute amount by half.


RECIPE #4
Three Little Birds Method
40 gallons used soil
4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups bone meal
4 cups kelp meal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .
That’s the basic recipe . . .
However we also like to use
4 cups of Greensand
4 cups of Rock Phosphate
4 cups of diatomaceous earth


RECIPE #5
Fish and Seaweed (This is sooo easy)

For veg growth…
1 capful 5-1-1 Fish Emulsion
1 capful Neptune's Harvest 0-0-1 Seaweed or Maxicrop liquid
1 gallon H2O

For early flowering…
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-3-1 Fish/Seaweed
1 gallon H2O

For mid to late flowering…
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1 Fish
1 gallon H2O


Here are some tips also to remember

Organic pH issues

I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.
Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.
A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.

Chlorine tap water

Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.

Flushing

There is absolutely no reason to "flush" organic nute solutions from your soil mix. In an organic grow, the plants don't take up the organic nutes (guano, bone, blood or kelp). The bacteria eat the organic nutes and excrete food that the plant can feed off of. So the organic nutes don't need to be flushed because they never enter the plant. And besides, meals like kelp, bone and blood along with worm castings and dolomite can't be flushed from your soil mix anyway. If you use guano and seaweed, try using plain water or worm casting tea for your last watering or two so the plant can use up what's left in the soil. But drowning your soil with water isn't necessary.


By far, the most important part of organic soil growing is the grow medium. And, the most important part of the grow medium is humates. The base of the medium can be peat or coir or both. Worm castings, home made compost or mushroom compost will provide humus which among other things will "buffer" the pH of the medium and the liquids you pour into it. Powdered dolomite lime provides calcium and magnesium as well as adjust the pH of the medium. And finally perlite is for drainage so the medium doesn't soak the roots and suffocate the microheard. This is the foundation. And as you know, building on a solid foundation is paramount if you are building for success.

As far as Neptune's Harvest Fish/Seaweed 2-3-1 goes, if you can only get one liquid nute for flowering this is it. If you also have the 2-4-1 Fish, I suggest you use that for the last four weeks of flowering and use the 2-3-1 for the first part of flowering. You don't need much potassium in late flowering.

You don't need Maxicrop if using the 2-3-1 because it already has seaweed in it.

If you have worm castings, Maxicrop, (or Neptune's Harvest 0-0-1 seaweed) Peruvian Seabird Guano and Indonesian or Jamaican bat guano you can make this guano tea for flowering...

Flowering nute tea mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tbs. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract
5 tbs. Black Strap Molasses
@ 2 cups/5 gallons of water EVERY watering.
You can use queen size knee high nylon stockings for tea bags. 3 pair for a dollar at the dollar store. Tell 'em you use them for paint strainers. Put the recommended tea in the stocking, tie a loop knot in it and hang it in your tea bucket. The tea should look like a mud puddle. Agitate the bag in the water vigorously. An aquarium pump and air stone will dissolve oxygen into the solution and keep the good bacteria (microherd) alive and thriving. Let it bubble a day or two before you use it. If you find you are making too much tea and having to throw it out, use 2 1/2 gallons of water and cut the nute amount by half.

...If you only have high P guano, you can make a tea with it alone to supplement in flowering. But you'll need seaweed and a little nitrogen as well. High P guano can be used alone in late flowering though.

I'm not familiar with the other nutes and supplements you mentioned.

With a good organic grow medium you can go with any organic nute recipe with a ratio close to 3-1-2 in veg and 1-3-2 in flower.

I take no credit for the soil recipes or tips. This is information I have compiled and learned a great deal from.
 

Sage Nyx

Member
Haha.
Thanks again you guys :D

Now, I've been looking at different lighting systems for a while, and I can't seem to find a good one. The system can't be nailed, or anything of the like, to a wall.
I've seen the prices of the HID systems and I need to save up a bit more to be able to buy that.

I was thinking something like the lamp positioned this picture-

I was hoping to have a setup similar to this.


Would this be as effective as an HID system, at least if there is enough wattage?
 

keico

Well-Known Member
Haha.
Thanks again you guys :D

Now, I've been looking at different lighting systems for a while, and I can't seem to find a good one. The system can't be nailed, or anything of the like, to a wall.
I've seen the prices of the HID systems and I need to save up a bit more to be able to buy that.

I was thinking something like the lamp positioned this picture-

I was hoping to have a setup similar to this.


Would this be as effective as an HID system, at least if there is enough wattage?
Well I was in the same boat when I first started. I think that the lighting system can be your largest investment, and yes the prices make you wonder.

However a fellow RIU member here pointed me in a direction of HID system that were much cheaper than the digital ballast systems you see for sale.

They are low and high bay fixtures that warehouse were and still some use.

They may require some modifictaions but it really isnt that hard

I have gotten mine from ebay

Here is a 400 Metal Halide cost $70.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/DAYBRITE-HIGH-BAY-FIXTURE-FITTING_W0QQitemZ290321600766QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item43988410fe

Don't let the 480 volt deter you these things can be wired for 120, 240, 480

They were cheaper before but I think someone caught on to this and started jacking up the price.

Mine was $ 40.00 total

Here is a 400 watt HPS cost $63.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/LITHONIA-HIGH-BAY-LIGHTS-400W-HPS-277V-N660A_W0QQitemZ400071965755QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5d2625bc3b

Here is the RIU link that shows how to rewire and setup

https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/164853-how-use-industrial-low-bay.html

Lets not forget bulbs. The cheapest place is http://www.1000bulbs.com/

Now that doesn't mean you can't find a digital ballast at a good price
http://cgi.ebay.com/400-watt-Electronic-Ballast-Works-Metal-Halide-MH-HPS_W0QQitemZ320438486318QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0

Cost about 103 dollars

I actually paid 129.99 for mine and have it as a backup

I believe in buying two of everything just in case

everything depends on your setup

There is always a cheaper alternative.

Take your time save your money and start collecting supplies.

After your initial investment it will pay for itself in time


I use a wardrobe closet $15.00 at a thrift store

anyway hope all this helps
 
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