Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients

ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
boostedhonda said:
all i ordered was the roots pack im seeing some people mix the roots and the foliar pack. i know next to nothing about running bennies
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Needs a solid substrate, like soil or soilless. There's nothing in water to give the bennies anything to hold onto.
 
indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
boostedhonda said:
does anyone use bennies with jacks? in either dtw coco or dwc. i have been running sterile with pool shock and although my roots look great i feel they could be better. i just ordered some og biowar and was wundering if anyone had any insight
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yes, i do high porosity coco soil dtw. i use two inoculants, espoma or dr earth
dry ferts and home made castings. when i dump my soil the worms are still
alive and kicking, whoever said that synthetics and organics can't be complimentary
can suck it.
 
indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Needs a solid substrate, like soil or soilless. There's nothing in water to give the bennies anything to hold onto.
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that doesn't matter, i have grown plenty of species of fungi and bacteria
in only water. it's called liquid culture in mushroom cultivation or liquid
nutrient broth in microbiology. now, your beneficials might not be growing
in your hydro reservoir because the conditions don't support their growth,
but that doesn't mean that other species aren't establishing themselves
in the reservoir.
 
B

boostedhonda

Well-Known Member
i have a few seedlings that dont have many roots yet, i was just going to try pouring some over the rockwool and hydroton just to try and help them along. there are no roots in water yet
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
indianajones said:
that doesn't matter, i have grown plenty of species of fungi and bacteria
in only water. it's called liquid culture in mushroom cultivation or liquid
nutrient broth in microbiology. now, your beneficials might not be growing
in your hydro reservoir because the conditions don't support their growth,
but that doesn't mean that other species aren't establishing themselves
in the reservoir.
Click to expand...
Some live, many won't. Most don't end up anyplace where they'll do you any good in a fully aqueous bare root environment.
 
indianajones

indianajones

Well-Known Member
on the subject of "some live, many won't"

the fascinating thing is that the indigenous effective species for hydroponics
will likely be different for each area of the country/world. i don't think i would
do full hydro without plenty of water turbidity, i messed around a bit with DWC,
but i think those styles of systems are limited in their effectiveness because
of the lack of water movement.
 
ruwtz

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
OutofLEDCloset said:
The 321 mix is what I meant. Lets say 1g .67g and .33g. Per gallon of tap. Was under the impression dtw uses half what a recirculating system uses.
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1g Jacks 5-11-26 gives you N 14ppm, P13ppm, K 58ppm.

.67g cal-nit gives you N 28ppm, Ca 33ppm.

.33g mag sulfate gives you Mg 8ppm, S 10ppm.

All of these are dangerously insufficient, unless your water is grow formula right out the tap.

The 3-2-1 is exactly that: 3g 5-11-26, 2g cal-nit and 1g epsom per gallon.
 
ruwtz

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
Also on bennies:

I run Recharge - "organic superpack" (myco, trico, bacillus, humic, fulvic, amino + molasses as feed) - in coco dtw with dry salts and very happy with root vigor and health. It is basically a soil amendment product, so I don't expect it would run well in full hydro.

I honestly don't think you can round up this range and quality of micros for less money and for less effort. I pay $50 for a tub that lasts me several months, with twice weekly applications.

I bubble it for 30-60mins only to get it going (it foams like crazy) but it does not need a full brew as with tea. No mess, no stink.

Also at transplant I scratch a tsp of Bioag Vam mycos into the medium, which colonizes upon contact with roots, however I have heard these don't play so well once tricoderma are introduced by the Recharge later. Can't attest to this myself as i'm still learning on this one.

My only other additive is Hydroguard start to finish.

I am currently trialling Mammoth P in this "tea", but have no comment on it at this stage.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
indianajones said:
on the subject of "some live, many won't"

the fascinating thing is that the indigenous effective species for hydroponics
will likely be different for each area of the country/world. i don't think i would
do full hydro without plenty of water turbidity, i messed around a bit with DWC,
but i think those styles of systems are limited in their effectiveness because
of the lack of water movement.
Click to expand...
That's a mechanical problem, and my waterfalls solved it very well indeed.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
ruwtz said:
1g Jacks 5-11-26 gives you N 14ppm, P13ppm, K 58ppm.

.67g cal-nit gives you N 28ppm, Ca 33ppm.

.33g mag sulfate gives you Mg 8ppm, S 10ppm.

All of these are dangerously insufficient, unless your water is grow formula right out the tap.

The 3-2-1 is exactly that: 3g 5-11-26, 2g cal-nit and 1g epsom per gallon.
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Nonono, it's a ratio dude! Mix up plenty and then dilute to your desired EC. Personally, I ran about 2.0-2.2 EC in RDWC and I was very happy.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
ruwtz said:
Also on bennies:

I run Recharge - "organic superpack" (myco, trico, bacillus, humic, fulvic, amino + molasses as feed) - in coco dtw with dry salts and very happy with root vigor and health. It is basically a soil amendment product, so I don't expect it would run well in full hydro.

I honestly don't think you can round up this range and quality of micros for less money and for less effort. I pay $50 for a tub that lasts me several months, with twice weekly applications.

I bubble it for 30-60mins only to get it going (it foams like crazy) but it does not need a full brew as with tea. No mess, no stink.

Also at transplant I scratch a tsp of Bioag Vam mycos into the medium, which colonizes upon contact with roots, however I have heard these don't play so well once tricoderma are introduced by the Recharge later. Can't attest to this myself as i'm still learning on this one.

My only other additive is Hydroguard start to finish.

I am currently trialling Mammoth P in this "tea", but have no comment on it at this stage.
Click to expand...
Both Recharge and Mammoth P were developed by personal friends right here in northern Colorado. They're both good products; use Mammoth P with restraint because it really boosts phosphorus uptake.
 
ruwtz

ruwtz

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Both Recharge and Mammoth P were developed by personal friends right here in northern Colorado. They're both good products; use Mammoth P with restraint because it really boosts phosphorus uptake.
Click to expand...
Mammoth sent me a generous 300ml sample and i'm adding it to my tea instead of the res to stretch it further, and hopefully this way I can avoid overdoing it.

I'm still fussing with fertigation rates which relates to overall EC. This run i'm going with multiple short fertigations instead of fewer and longer. 7 ferts of 1min each throughout 12/12 will refresh nutes at the root zone more regularly and provide a more accurate profile every time whilst avoiding an imbalance due to takeup of one element over another, and caters for evaporation in a hot/low humidity room that can promote salt buildup.

I can therefore feed with lower EC and I get less excess runoff/wastage.

Some good reading here: https://manicbotanix.com/coco-substrate-and-hydroponics/
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
ruwtz said:
Mammoth sent me a generous 300ml sample and i'm adding it to my tea instead of the res to stretch it further, and hopefully this way I can avoid overdoing it.

I'm still fussing with fertigation rates which relates to overall EC. This run i'm going with multiple short fertigations instead of fewer and longer. 7 ferts of 1min each throughout 12/12 will refresh nutes at the root zone more regularly and provide a more accurate profile every time whilst avoiding an imbalance due to takeup of one element over another, and caters for evaporation in a hot/low humidity room that can promote salt buildup.

I can therefore feed with lower EC and I get less excess runoff/wastage.

Some good reading here: https://manicbotanix.com/coco-substrate-and-hydroponics/
Click to expand...
You're still going for at least 10% runoff, yes? That will do a lot more for balanced nutrient availability than more frequent waterings will.
 
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