Jacks (JR Peters) nutrients

Growerguy420 said:

That is a well thought out plan and solution to the low nitrogen problem, well done my friend. Only thing I'd say is that you don't have to worry about that extra step with a product like jacks. See the whole idea is to minimize risk of fucking something up and the more things you have to add and mix is just greater odds of effin something up. Jacks makes a great hydro feed def worth checking out if your a dwc guy.

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I ran Jacks for years before switching. The high K formula from Jacks is the same as I'm using now, the only difference is the label.

TonightYou said:

Your girls definitely look healthy! Part of the reason I cut my medium with perlite is to have better drainage. I kept over watering them and if the root structure wasn't in place it would really slow down the girls

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Thanks bro, obv yours do too but that's because we follow the same school of thought. Drainage can be a big issue with promix I believe because this stuff is so spongy it absorbs water and holds onto it real tight, I would like to try and get my temps up higher into the 80s as Ben was suggesting in our convo to induce faster wicking. I believe this is the issue with the girl we have been discussing earlier with UB...too much water not a big enough root structure to wick all that away and thus it is leaching it out through the tips of the new growth?... I guess she is the runt of this rounds clone litter at least based on root mass since foliage seems to be the same as the rest of the tent. I would also like to kill the myth that if you continue to clone a clone and then clone that clone ect that quality goes down...I have been cloning clones of the same seed sometimes up to 4 or 5 harvests (took breaks from growing over the years) and have never once seen a decrease in yield or quality.

ttystikk said:

I ran Jacks for years before switching. The high K formula from Jacks is the same as I'm using now, the only difference is the label.

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Actually, there's between half again and twice as much of all the micros in Hydrogardens as Jacks. My bad!

Growerguy420 said:

Thanks bro, obv yours do too but that's because we follow the same school of thought. Drainage can be a big issue with promix I believe because this stuff is so spongy it absorbs water and holds onto it real tight, I would like to try and get my temps up higher into the 80s as Ben was suggesting in our convo to induce faster wicking. I believe this is the issue with the girl we have been discussing earlier with UB...too much water not a big enough root structure to wick all that away and thus it is leaching it out through the tips of the new growth?... I guess she is the runt of this rounds clone litter at least based on root mass since foliage seems to be the same as the rest of the tent. I would also like to kill the myth that if you continue to clone a clone and then clone that clone ect that quality goes down...I have been cloning clones of the same seed sometimes up to 4 or 5 harvests (took breaks from growing over the years) and have never once seen a decrease in yield or quality.

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Yep, I think like a gardener/farmer. That's the best way to grow anything.

Like i said, your girls look lovely and I wouldn't be overly concerned. See I make my soil mix difficult to over water because, well I had a tendency to over water! Lol

Clones of clones, I can see plants changing and losing vigor after a while. Haven't experienced it yet because that's how I keep strains goin . Remember cannabis is an annual so it's suppose to go through its life cycle and die. When we clone, we are bypassing part of its life cycle. Nonetheless take my Goji plant, she's been clones of clones for over a year and a half or so. No issues with vigor, health or anything but this type if discussion seems to affect older plants (think decades). I can't say on either side who may be correct but my experience so far suggest it isn't a problem

Welllllll...

I just got rid of a couple of favorite cuts because try as I might, their old vigor is gone.

Once a cut shits out, it's done. No amount of rehab brings it back.

TonightYou said:

Yep, I think like a gardener/farmer. That's the best way to grow anything.

Like i said, your girls look lovely and I wouldn't be overly concerned. See I make my soil mix difficult to over water because, well I had a tendency to over water! Lol

Clones of clones, I can see plants changing and losing vigor after a while. Haven't experienced it yet because that's how I keep strains goin . Remember cannabis is an annual so it's suppose to go through its life cycle and die. When we clone, we are bypassing part of its life cycle. Nonetheless take my Goji plant, she's been clones of clones for over a year and a half or so. No issues with vigor, health or anything but this type if discussion seems to affect older plants (think decades). I can't say on either side who may be correct but my experience so far suggest it isn't a problem

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Until I learned to read my plants and pick up the pots I actually used to toss my plants on a scale to see how much they weighed when dry and then again when they were wet and if I wasn't sure if I needed to water I just weighed them (this was years ago) Of course I since learned how to read my plants by picking up the pots. But this works.
Just like your goji, my widows have no issues taking clones of clones. I guess I just get tired of a strain before I get to "decades" of cloning and onto something new. I base my reasoning on experience and if neither you nor myself have ever had an issue with this, then it sounds good to me.

ttystikk said:

Welllllll...

I just got rid of a couple of favorite cuts because try as I might, their old vigor is gone.

Once a cut shits out, it's done. No amount of rehab brings it back.

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That is interesting, I have not experienced that yet. I wonder what factors led to that. Was the plant that it was taken from deficient in any way?

Growerguy420 said:

That is interesting, I have not experienced that yet. I wonder what factors led to that. Was the plant that it was taken from deficient in any way?

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It was old, but had never seen bloom.

The reason hydrogarden's hydroponic mix is low N is because it's designed to have the majority of the N provided by the calcium nitrate, like with most hydroponic mixes. These 2 part dry mixes like Jack's professional hydro, hydrogardens mix, and cropking's mix are all designed to be used with calcium nitrate as a part B. That is why they all have such high P and K. They contain the potassium nitrate and monopotasium phosphate, and magnesium sulfate.

Hydroponic systems without a medium should be supplied nitrogen in the form of nitrate, and must supply a soluble form of calcium. The only suitable form soluble calcium is calcium nitrate, which supplies the majority of both nitrogen and calcium in hydroponic mixes.

Soil and potting mixes fortified with lime, however, are meant to be fed with urea/ammonia based N, like jacks classic, miracle grow, shultz, peters, etc. These mixes do not provide any calcium as it's expected to be built into the medium.

With potting mixes, you can either omit limestone and use a hydroponic formula, or build with limestone and use a urea (lawn) formula.

Lucky for pure hydro growers, calcium nitrate is the cheapest ingredient and needed in the highest percentage by mass.

If I didn't make my own mixes from scratch, those 2 part dry hydroponic mixes where 1 is calcium nitrate is what I'd be using. What's great is you can mix any match any brand of calcium nitrate with their part A and it's compatible.

Obviously that means buying yara calcium nitrate instead of jack's brand as it's WAY cheaper..

@churchhaze good to see you explaining things for those who haven't tried dry nutes and don't understand the bottles they ARE using.

I've always bought Yara Liva brand calcium nitrate. While at Hydrogardens, I also bought a 50lb bag of Epsom salt and another of MKP, aka 'MOAB', LOL

This is a great thread. I'm new to this hobby, but I have grown a lot of mums in my day, and this seems to follow along those lines. I have a small grow tent with a 80*3W LED light. I have been using Jack's 20-20-20 for the entire growth and things are doing well so far. I am sure I have made a ton of mistakes, but things will get better witheach grow. Cheers everyone.

anyone tried this Jack’s Professional 16-4-17 Hydro FeED

I've been growing with Jacks for almost 2 years and cannot think of a reason to ever consider another manufacturer.

I've played with different NPK's and for me I like the Bloom Booster (10-30-20) from beginning to end. I too use Happy Frog as I find it stable and consistent.

I know a lot of growers that prefer the lower P of Orchid FeEd, but for me I found my bud growth suffered when I ran it. The 20-20-20 certainly is a safe bet too.

I DO have to read my plants and some need extra cal/mag, and other's require an occasional dose of bat guano.

lilroach I see you use the bloom booster what other line of Jacks are you using?

Not a lot of info on the Jacks 16-4-17 So I went ahead and ordered it, and the bloom booster. It will be awhile till I report how well it works, because I shut my operation down for a month. Will start back at first of year. I've been using Dyna FP, Bloom Mag Pro and Pro tekt. I know all of you have been getting great results with the 2 part system. but I can't find where anyone is kicking ass with 16-4-17. I'll you all know.

I don't like the N in the bloom booster. Would prefer to add that myself if I want some. I'm going to try the 5-12-26 + calcium nitrate and also use the calcium nitrate with my KoolBloom powder if I want some N with my bloom boost.

Jacks 20.20.20 all purpose in veg
Maxsea 3.20.20 bloom for flower

Most growers don't know that the secret nute for potency is sulfur, the Citrus FeED has 4.9% and the Aquagold has 9%. I also add Potassium Sulfate (which I get from JR Peters) as it is 18% sulfur and a 0-0-50. Tis also why I prefer Gypsum and Epsom for Cal/Mag issues as they both are Sulfates. I've been gardening over 40 years