Janky Seedlings - PLZ HALP!1!!

Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
2015-11-06 10.51.42.jpg 2015-11-06 11.00.25.jpg 2015-11-06 10.56.18.jpg 2015-11-06 11.02.25.jpg 2015-11-06 10.57.06.jpg This is my first time having issues with seeds and I'd appreciate any help and advice.

I ordered 10 White Widow seeds by seedsman and I've only had 50% germination. I cracked the dome 50% open yesterday and the remaining humidity escaped. The inside still smells pretty dank, however. The medium is damp and I have not watered since planting. Medium is a mix of coco, perlite, vermiculite, and a wee bit of FFOF. This is day 7 and for now they are indoors. Also using a 24 hour light schedule via Aerogarden on lowest vertical setting.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
ffof is too hot of a soil for seedlings. this is why you seeing some yellowing. you're suppose to use ff light warrior for seedlings, then transplant them into ffof later on. a lot of people are having issues with ffof but when you walk into a grow supply store, they typically don't ask why are you buying something to make sure you're doing the right thing. they will sell you whatever you want because that's what they're there for, to sell you stuff. many of these people are just young retailers who don't know squat about growing or the products they sell.
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
ffof is too hot of a soil for seedlings. this is why you seeing some yellowing. you're suppose to use ff light warrior for seedlings, then transplant them into ffof later on. a lot of people are having issues with ffof but when you walk into a grow supply store, they typically don't ask why are you buying something to make sure you're doing the right thing. they will sell you whatever you want because that's what they're there for, to sell you stuff. many of these people are just young retailers who don't know squat about growing or the products they sell.
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It's not even a third though, and the soil was cut. I popped my Alien X Triangle seeds in the same mix sans vermiculite and coco plus the majority of the pot is ocean forest straight out the bag. I used a lighter mix just around the seed just to be safe.

Besides, I've read that your seeds will be fine in whatever soil you sprout them in so long as they were germinated in it.
 
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polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
if that were the case, then why come here with this problem? have you done anything else to the soil or the plants that you haven't mentioned?
don't bother with either coco or vermiculite. you don't want to breathe in vermiculite dust. it's like asbestos and will never leave. ffof soil has fert in it and the ff light warrior is the one designed with less ferts for seedlings.
anyway, it's too late to change now, so just watch what happens and take it as a learning experience.
by the way, too many plants in a small space. if they survive they will outgrow such small space. people always do this. they forget that the plants will grow and cram a lot of pots into a small space.
 
Buzz Buzzilla

Buzz Buzzilla

Well-Known Member
They are both right, ffof is for after seedling and the immature stage as it has a ppm of about. 450-500 light warrior is a good choice to start in, I also like to use ff happy frog before I go to ffof as it is a nice transition and helps get out if the juvenile stage.
Miracle grow sells seed starting soil also that is very low nutes 0.7-0.7-0.7 I have had great starting results with this as well!
 
tropicalcannabispatient

tropicalcannabispatient

Well-Known Member
Lord Kanti said:
View attachment 3536999 View attachment 3537000 View attachment 3537002 View attachment 3537005 View attachment 3537006 This is my first time having issues with seeds and I'd appreciate any help and advice.

I ordered 10 White Widow seeds by seedsman and I've only had 50% germination. I cracked the dome 50% open yesterday and the remaining humidity escaped. The inside still smells pretty dank, however. The medium is damp and I have not watered since planting. Medium is a mix of coco, perlite, vermiculite, and a wee bit of FFOF. This is day 7 and for now they are indoors. Also using a 24 hour light schedule via Aerogarden on lowest vertical setting.
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please halp? lmao
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
tropicalcannabispatient said:
please halp? lmao
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*plz

I've done cuttings in a 50:50 mix of perlite and vermiculite, would that work for seeds? That way there would be no fertilizer. And yeah, I definitely mix those with some respiratory protection. The only thing I worry about is if the wind catches it and blows it into the dogs.

So wilted / mushy leaf tips is definitely nutrient burn and not too much heat, light, or a humidity issue? The only other time I've seen this is when I start the hardening process from my germination station I have outdoors and move the plants out into the yard with the wind and sun.

The A x T seeds main difference other than being sprouted directly in soil is that they were planted outside directly in their final 5 gallon pot. They get 24ish hours of light between the sun and the 600W that's at least 2 feet above them, if not more. I took the humidity domes away temporarily at 1 week, and permanently at 2. They've never has mush leaf after a month and look similar to other growers results.

It was mentioned that I had too many plants in my germination area. Care to elaborate? Does the Aerogarden fail to completely illuminate it's base? The seedlings aren't stretching much, and in fact I'm a little worried that the nodes seem so tight.
 
Buzz Buzzilla

Buzz Buzzilla

Well-Known Member
It's so early I wouldn't worry about node spacing. As far as nute burn no, although it should happen starting in even a lil ffof. After looking at your picture more I'm noticing what appears to be algae on your perlite ;s I have a lot of experience with algae coco, vermiculite, and perlite..when you add vermiculite and light to the equation you get algae! Algae is notorious for causing high and fluctuating ph and locking out Fe as well as K. So I would use 5ml h2o2 at 3% in 16oz misted to kill algae and do this every 2 days until the soil is somewhat shaded.
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
Buzz Buzzilla said:
It's so early I wouldn't worry about node spacing. As far as nute burn no, although it should happen starting in even a lil ffof. After looking at your picture more I'm noticing what appears to be algae on your perlite ;s I have a lot of experience with algae coco, vermiculite, and perlite..when you add vermiculite and light to the equation you get algae! Algae is notorious for causing high and fluctuating ph and locking out Fe as well as K. So I would use 5ml h2o2 at 3% in 16oz misted to kill algae and do this every 2 days until the soil is somewhat shaded.
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It had rained before and the wheel barrow got wet. The algae came from outside. Should I worry about killing it now or just wait for it die once the plants are moved out with the others?
 
Buzz Buzzilla

Buzz Buzzilla

Well-Known Member
Lord Kanti said:
It had rained before and the wheel barrow got wet. The algae came from outside. Should I worry about killing it now or just wait for it die once the plants are moved out with the others?
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I'd kill it ASAP or your soil ph is going to fluctuate every day. Algae is very strange, it lives in the presence of light producing oxygen which is good...but in the absence of light it dies and creates low oxygen high co2 causing ph to change wildly in the process.
After seeing all this I'm wondering myself if leaving lights on 24/0 might
solve this problem as well.
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
Buzz Buzzilla said:
I'd kill it ASAP or your soil ph is going to fluctuate every day. Algae is very strange, it lives in the presence of light producing oxygen which is good...but in the absence of light it dies and creates low oxygen high co2 causing ph to change wildly in the process.
After seeing all this I'm wondering myself if leaving lights on 24/0 might
solve this problem as well.
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I bumped the light up a few inches away from the dome and opened the vents 100%. The light is still set to 24/7 on. Some seedlings are light, others are darkly colored.

Should I sprinkle some Great White now, or wait until transplant? I can't remember if I had inoculated these pots or not. I'm going to add a checklist to my next grow journal. :!
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
I dug up a pot and found a tiny white worm wiggling away from a slightly sprouted seed. Any idea if this worm is beneficial? It was very small and thin. Like something you'd see in the parasite section of a textbook.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
too many plants in that space means they will outgrow the space. the tents like yours aren't really designed for so many plants. you'll have leaves against the walls, provided they live. no light exposure to them then, moisture buildup, mold.
 
bird mcbride

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
Considering that you are using an inert grow medium you should have heat sterilized the medium before planting.

When the plants get overcrowded just cut out the less active plant material allowing room for the more active growth.
 
polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
inert doesn't have anything to do with bugs. inert means the material won't break down and cause problems, not necessarily infected with insects or disease of any type. bird, I don't know where you get your info. are you just dreaming this stuff up? all of the plant material will be active as long as it's healthy and green.
in·ert
iˈnərt/unmoving, motionless, immobile, inanimate, still, stationary,

 
bird mcbride

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
polishpollack said:
inert doesn't have anything to do with bugs. inert means the material won't break down and cause problems, not necessarily infected with insects or disease of any type. bird, I don't know where you get your info. are you just dreaming this stuff up? all of the plant material will be active as long as it's healthy and green.
in·ert
iˈnərt/unmoving, motionless, immobile, inanimate, still, stationary,

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In the organic world of mj gardening heat treating an organic soil could potentially cause harm to the medium which relies on microbes etc to establish a natural growing enviroment. I don't do organic but I understand it. This is a grow being done in an inert material meaning that other than suspension these types of grow mediums offers little more. It is ok to heat sterilize these types of mediums as well as soils that will be relying on chemically based or so-called synthetic NPK's. Heat sterilizing minimizes the potental of parasitical out breaks.

I get my info from my grow-op:)
 
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polishpollack

polishpollack

Well-Known Member
Contradictory.
Inert doesn't mean "free of fertilizer." It means that the material itself, like peat for example, will not interact with anything else. You are confusing inert as "free of fertilizer," but this isn't right. All grow mediums, including outdoor dirt, is free of fertilizer unless there is plant material broken down to its elements by bacteria. In this way nature recycles these elements for a new generation.
How can you say you don't do organic yet give information on it and say you get info from your grow op? How can your info come from a grow op that you plainly state you don't do?
The soil should be pretty clean from the factory. I suppose you could heat treat if you wanted to put that much soil in your oven. (I'm guessing this is what you're talking about.) Good organic ferts have the necessary bacteria in them to promote the same material break down that is done outdoors. Interesting that you switch your post from organic to synthetic mid-paragraph though. hmmm.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
Lord Kanti said:
View attachment 3536999 View attachment 3537000 View attachment 3537002 View attachment 3537005 View attachment 3537006 This is my first time having issues with seeds and I'd appreciate any help and advice.

I ordered 10 White Widow seeds by seedsman and I've only had 50% germination. I cracked the dome 50% open yesterday and the remaining humidity escaped. The inside still smells pretty dank, however. The medium is damp and I have not watered since planting. Medium is a mix of coco, perlite, vermiculite, and a wee bit of FFOF. This is day 7 and for now they are indoors. Also using a 24 hour light schedule via Aerogarden on lowest vertical setting.
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Ok so heres the problems.
You used a dome. Wrong. It can work but if you want better results try the same dirt mix you made and let it breath. Seeds after a 12 hour soak mind you, will pop in 2-3 days. You need airflow.
Looks to me that your on day seven, half the seeds have sprouted and the lights on. Wrong. Sprout seeds in the dark. Like a box with a bunch of holes poked in it or a top that doesnt close well but still keeps it dark. THEN, when they sprout, as they sprout, one by one, put them under the light.
Lastly, heat. You most likely have good heat because you have that light on, unfortunately the light has to be on to get the heat....boo. Heat is a really important factor in germination. 78-81 is perfect. Warmer is definitely better than cooler. Getting it that temp is your problem.

I just ringered another 100% germ rate plus one sprouted twins in ffof straight, no pearlite or mixing. So whoever keeps saying its too hot is wrong. 100% ffof and 100% germ with no burn....again ;) id use seedling starter mix if i had it but i dont lol.
Damp dirt, 12 hour seed soak, 1/4 inch down, put in dark at 78 degrees with ventilation, 48 hrs later youll have around 70% germ. As the rest pop takem out of the dark and to low light. Dont even open the door for 48 hours, dont. This works every time.
 
Lord Kanti

Lord Kanti

Well-Known Member
Alienwidow said:
Ok so heres the problems.
You used a dome. Wrong. It can work but if you want better results try the same dirt mix you made and let it breath. Seeds after a 12 hour soak mind you, will pop in 2-3 days. You need airflow.
Looks to me that your on day seven, half the seeds have sprouted and the lights on. Wrong. Sprout seeds in the dark. Like a box with a bunch of holes poked in it or a top that doesnt close well but still keeps it dark. THEN, when they sprout, as they sprout, one by one, put them under the light.
Lastly, heat. You most likely have good heat because you have that light on, unfortunately the light has to be on to get the heat....boo. Heat is a really important factor in germination. 78-81 is perfect. Warmer is definitely better than cooler. Getting it that temp is your problem.

I just ringered another 100% germ rate plus one sprouted twins in ffof straight, no pearlite or mixing. So whoever keeps saying its too hot is wrong. 100% ffof and 100% germ with no burn....again ;) id use seedling starter mix if i had it but i dont lol.
Damp dirt, 12 hour seed soak, 1/4 inch down, put in dark at 78 degrees with ventilation, 48 hrs later youll have around 70% germ. As the rest pop takem out of the dark and to low light. Dont even open the door for 48 hours, dont. This works every time.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about switching to coco + perlite after I found the worms eating my seeds and maybe sterilizing the medium, though that wouldn't help with flying insects sneaking in.

I'll try your recommended approach. I'll look for a box, but at the very least I'll try the 12 hour soak and keep them in the dark. My A×T seeds sprouted flawlessly outdoors in fabric pots, so I'm hoping to have my indoor seeds be just as successful. It's frustrating to be successful in one area, but not the other.
 
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