SPLFreak808
Well-Known Member
Do the pots smell like damping off? Sour stink ass smell?
Janky Seedlings - PLZ HALP!1!!
- Thread starter Lord Kanti
- Start date
Lord Kanti
Well-Known Member
When I found the worms, not really, but I noticed a slight BO-like smell when I was checking on them a few days after I planted so I opened up or removed the dome. I think domes might be more useful for fabric pots or rock wool.
Alienwidow
Well-Known Member
domes are for clones. You dont want 100% humidity and no air movement when sprouting seeds.
Lord Kanti
Well-Known Member
Alienwidow
Well-Known Member
Well either that or it could be totally hollow lol. Floating really means nothing about the seeds integrity.
Buzz Buzzilla
Well-Known Member
Sorry I'm late to this but I used to run organic only using coco...and FYI neither coco or peat are inert. Styrofoam glass or even clay would be a good example of something that is inert. Coco and peat do break down ...at a much slower rate but this isn't your problem. The problem is either fungus or the larvae in the soil...when using a sterile soil you either need to intruce a healthy living bacteria to combat any unwanted bad bacteria or pests via worm tea, or guano tea...or if you want to run a Sterile soil I'd suggest using h2o2 (hydrogen peroxide) every watering and as a foliar spray furring veg which will kill both bacteria or larvae.
Buzz Buzzilla
Well-Known Member
Also perlite is a must! Coco has a tendancy to get compacted and perlite prevents this also helps with drainage...stay away from vermiculite i always notice increased growth of algae and fungus when combining coco with it.
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
I at one time screwed with all those mediums. Now I'm a floaty hydroton, lava rock grower, 100% inorganic. There are no bugs in my grow-op. I go out of my way to get town water
I was once employed at the Annapolis valley peat moss bog where we put all those mixes together and bail them during the 1970's. Believe me...it is entirely possible for bugs to get past the huge cyclone dryer that heat treated all the mediums before the mixes were bailed. Heat sterilization is practical for these types of mediums because they don't initially contain any active organics, otherwise inert and never did harbour active organics, not in our lifetimes anyway.
Peat moss or spagnum moss is nothing more than a dead moss that grows in on lakes with white sand until the lake is totally filled with this stuff. The only thing spagnum is any good for is loosening up clumpy soil and holding water like a sponge.
Algae usually occurs when the medium or res goes above 72F. A lot of people like to run h2o2 but I prefer to just keep the temps in the 60'sF in the res and change out the water as needed. When the res is spent I'd rather change it than add more NPK fertilizer etc. When algae happens the plant stems usually go red from a build up of magnesium caused by the algae community, and other unwanted microbes living in the medium or res. Active organic decomposition is not what a plant wants or needs. All organic plant nutrients should be fully composted before using.
I find it easier and just as efficient to start my seedling directly in the F&D budding table in a very small piece of rockwool using a 1kw hps set at about 44" from the bulbs glass to the surface of the medium
Just put the seed(s) in there and forget it until it's time for a FIMM
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
For all the new members; FIMM means "F*ck I Missed", when topping and got too much
I and others decided it needed another FIM"M"
I and others decided it needed another FIM"M"
Buzz Buzzilla
Well-Known Member
Idk about a build up of mag but usually algae will cause ph swings locking out several nutrients...the easiest way to combat this is to remove it from the light source.I at one time screwed with all those mediums. Now I'm a floaty hydroton, lava rock grower, 100% inorganic. There are no bugs in my grow-op. I go out of my way to get town water
I was once employed at the Annapolis valley peat moss bog where we put all those mixes together and bail them during the 1970's. Believe me...it is entirely possible for bugs to get past the huge cyclone dryer that heat treated all the mediums before the mixes were bailed. Heat sterilization is practical for these types of mediums because they don't initially contain any active organics, otherwise inert and never did harbour active organics, not in our lifetimes anyway.
Peat moss or spagnum moss is nothing more than a dead moss that grows in on lakes with white sand until the lake is totally filled with this stuff. The only thing spagnum is any good for is loosening up clumpy soil and holding water like a sponge.
Algae usually occurs when the medium or res goes above 72F. A lot of people like to run h2o2 but I prefer to just keep the temps in the 60'sF in the res and change out the water as needed. When the res is spent I'd rather change it than add more NPK fertilizer etc. When algae happens the plant stems usually go red from a build up of magnesium caused by the algae community, and other unwanted microbes living in the medium or res. Active organic decomposition is not what a plant wants or needs. All organic plant nutrients should be fully composted before using.
I find it easier and just as efficient to start my seedling directly in the F&D budding table in a very small piece of rockwool using a 1kw hps set at about 44" from the bulbs glass to the surface of the medium
bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
When I bought a pump from an aquarium shop I figured I should grab one of their info magazines on aquatic plants. In this magazine it related algae growth with lockout and excessive magnesium caused by the algae living and decaying in the water.
I cut 6"x6" square pieces of reflective poly and cut a strip to the middle and a diamond shaped hole in the center large enough to accomodate the stalk. I place one of these at the base of each plant or seedling to keep the light out of the medium.