Lady Newbie Got Probs

K

KandiLady

Active Member
Hiya guys

Been growing in 11ltr wilma pots using bio bizz all mix. They are 5 phat fruity plants under 2 x 125w blue cfl's & for the last 3 months all's been going well, until a few weeks back!

Ive also been ph'n my water but after about 2 months of growing i noticed that a few of the fan leaves (big leaves) were going a yellow colour so i read up & decided to buy some bio-bizz grow solution.

After using it once i now seem to have more problems & wondered if i might have used a too stronger strength even though i read the directions properly but have now read less is more. I feel now that i have a range of different nutrient problems! anyway i wanted to ask if i should cut off the bad leaves as its all realy on the fan leaves or should i leave them??

Im gonna try & attach some pics

Regards, Kandi









 
K

KandiLady

Active Member
Meant to also say that i gave them some epsom salts (2 tsp in a watering can) last week but havent seen a change :(
 
F

fureelz

Guest
PH test before watering and after (runoff) water. what size is that container? Its either a nute burn or root issue.
 
GreenphoeniX

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
Up to you whether or not you take of the bad leaves, the only minor reason to remove them is risk of bacterial growth, but other than that, they won't harm the rest of your plants.

The pics do look along the lines of 'pH spotting' which means the pH in your growing medium is a little out of whack, using Dolomite Lime is a lot better than using Epsom Salts as D-Lime contains everything Epsom Salt contains plus some other great stuff.
It will condition your soil and bring the pH to around neutral (pH 7) ... You can top dress with D-Lime and mix it in a little then water it in, or you can re-pot your plants mixing some D-Lime into the fresh soil before planting. This way will also help reduce any problems caused by your current soil mix.

Some nutrients do throw the growing mediums pH out of whack quite easily, and when learning to grow at first it can be hard to judge the correct application rates for different stages of growth as well as different strains.
When I grow in soil, I tend to stick to the Earth Juice (EJ) range of organic nutrients, as well as pre-mixing Dolomite Lime and Worm Castings into a peat based soil medium before planting.

Hope this helps, cheers!
 
K

KandiLady

Active Member
Thanks for your replys guys!!

Ive now plucked off most of the bad leaves, which as i said are mostly on the big old leaves. The size of my containers are 11ltr wilma pots. Ive been Ph to about 6.5. I havent been testing the run off water as ive been watering from the top & dont have saucers (i am gonna get sum today as i think watering from bottom would be better). Thanks greenpheonix i will get some dolomite asap.

The trouble with nutrient problems is that in the pics showing different problems they all show yellowing leaves so its hard to tell which problem youve got! until your a compitent grower that is lol.

Thanks again for your help!!

I just think ive come so far (as was gonna put em into flower in a couple of weeks) that i dont want things to do wrong now lol

Best Wishes, Kandi x
 
TheLastJuror

TheLastJuror

Well-Known Member
KandiLady said:
Thanks for your replys guys!!

Ive now plucked off most of the bad leaves, which as i said are mostly on the big old leaves. The size of my containers are 11ltr wilma pots. Ive been Ph to about 6.5. I havent been testing the run off water as ive been watering from the top & dont have saucers (i am gonna get sum today as i think watering from bottom would be better). Thanks greenpheonix i will get some dolomite asap.

The trouble with nutrient problems is that in the pics showing different problems they all show yellowing leaves so its hard to tell which problem youve got! until your a compitent grower that is lol.

Thanks again for your help!!

I just think ive come so far (as was gonna put em into flower in a couple of weeks) that i dont want things to do wrong now lol

Best Wishes, Kandi x
Click to expand...
Well good luck, i hope you can find exactly what you need to do to keep them babies alive to flower.
 
K

KandiLady

Active Member
Just to add: when i gave them a dose of nutrients (at just under the recommended dose on the biobizz grow instructions) i didnt ph as i had read that when growing in soil you didnt need to ph as the soil acted as a buffer?

Also as im growing in a purpose built grow cupboard in my loft, i have a big plastic box that i fill up to stop me having to carry watering cans up & down for which i was ph'n. I have just tested the water to see if over time it had changed its ph (ive also got a pump going in the box to stop stagnant water) after just ph'n i have found that the water ph has gone up again. Is this normal?

Today i have filled my watering can with clean water & ph'd to about 6.5 & watered them, so hope it sorts its self out lol

Any help is always appreciated!!

Kandi x
 
F

fureelz

Guest
soil has its own pH balance and with the varieties of soil out there youre gonna have to look at the bag and see what it says are the pH buffers. I do a true test of before water enters the soil and once some has drained out ill collect that and test..its of course higher, but by how much? thats whats important.
 
smokeybandit22

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
I would venture that they are lacking the proper nutes. the first pic is showing the later stages of K deficiency-the random spotting turning necrotic. pic 2 is showing the same with P deficiency evidenced by 'the twist'. 3 is showing the same with possibly Mg deficiency. 4 the twist again and the same as 1-3.
are you saying for 2-3 months you have not fed them anything and now u r feeding them bio bizz? as Twisty asked for, what are the NPK rations-should be clearly labeled on the bottle- N nitrogen, P phosphorous, K potassium.
I think ur girls are just hungry.

some fine dolomite lime or hydrated lime will help buffer your ph, but you really have to be out of range- like under 6 and over 8 before you would see any real issues-most of the time.

keep in mind all nutes are meant and designed for heavier fruit bearing plants-like tomatoes, not mj. so u will be better off using 1/2 strength. normally if u have been feeding for awhile, it should be water, water, feed, water, water, feed. but b/c they are deficienct, water, feed, water, feed, water, water, feed, water, feed, water, water, feed and so on.
also, r u looking to flower soon? b/c they are pretty big and will get ALOT bigger so if space is a problem, take your clones and after 2/3 feedings flower em.
 
F

fureelz

Guest
lol @ above....at over 1,000 posts I WOULD THINK you would read thru the thread before posting. wtf do i know tho.
 
GreenphoeniX

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
If you want to get a soil mix that contains no NPK so the only feed your plants get it from what you add, look into soiless mixes, they are used instead of soil but as a similar growing medium with the same, if not more of a pH buffer, and more control over what nutrients your plants receive and when they receive them.

A basic soiless mix is:

5 parts Sphagnum Peat Moss or Coir
3 parts Perlite (Medium Grade probably best)
2 parts Worm Castings (one of the best organic nutrient sources) ... or mushroom compost or home made compost.
2 tablespoons per gallon (3.78L - Round to 4L for ease) Pulverized Dolomite Lime

So for say a 10 Litre (2.6 Gallon) pot, you'd mix up:

5L Sphagnum Peat Moss
3L Perlite
2L Worm Castings
2.5 Tablespoons of Pulverized Dolomite Lime
Mix it all together thoroughly, and there you go, you have 10L of mix.

The natural organisms in the mix will help to buffer the pH and the Dolomite Lime will take care of the rest.
This mix is best suited for growing with organic nutrients, preferably in liquid form so they can just be watered in.

Cheers!
 
F

fureelz

Guest
lol I'm sure Mister Knowitall, sure sounds like you read the thread before posting. See the pictures of the harvest? sure. its awesome how seeing a picture can determine a Potassium deficiency, can you tell me the winning lotto numbers for next weeks drawing? I can list atleast 9 things that cause brown spotting or twisting. obviously not much, I know; only graduated from a respectful university last year... I just jumped your shiz because I'm sure its not the first time you've done this. ANYWAY I still love you and your goofy avatar. sorry if i ruined your evening.
 
smokeybandit22

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
fureelz said:
lol I'm sure Mister Knowitall, sure sounds like you read the thread before posting. See the pictures of the harvest? sure. its awesome how seeing a picture can determine a Potassium deficiency, can you tell me the winning lotto numbers for next weeks drawing? I can list atleast 9 things that cause brown spotting or twisting. obviously not much, I know; only graduated from a respectful university last year... I just jumped your shiz because I'm sure its not the first time you've done this. ANYWAY I still love you and your goofy avatar. sorry if i ruined your evening.
Click to expand...
so u r saying that the hundreds of marijuana books are wrong for displaying pics of nutrient disorders and their affect on leaves? gimme a break. and ur right-it is not the first time I have properly diagnosed a plant. sure, 9 things could cause it, but only a few that are probable. stupid ass punk. wow, u graduated a respected univerity. alot of us have. big fing deal.
and no, u couldnt ruin my night by a stupid post on someone making a diagnosis off of a picture. you are right, this site should close down, b/c there is no way to diagnose any plant symptons with pictures. so the million or so threads on RIU that pertain to deficiencies should all be neagted. man, you are brilliant.
 
smokeybandit22

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
and since you are so helpful, why dont you post the nine things so the OP can determine which one suits her needs. my opnion was helpful, your post was a lame attempt to bridge your own insecurities.
 
GreenphoeniX

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
Chiiiiiilllllllllllll people... Chill...

I too have seen other things cause markings like that, and a lot of the time it's not due to a Potassium (K) deficiency as such, can be due to lack of K from nutrient lock out, which is still technically a K def, but not caused by not providing the plant with enough K ...

For Mr. Grumpy Pants; I've said this before, and I'll say it again, this is a pot growing forum... So, smoke a bowl of your finest, and chill out, be happy, be friendly, be helpful ... Attacking other members isn't helping anyone, constructive criticism is fine, hopefully know one gets too offended by it!

Anyway, seen as K def is out most likely cause in this situation, here is some extra info:
Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
 
smokeybandit22

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
GreenphoeniX said:
Chiiiiiilllllllllllll people... Chill...

I too have seen other things cause markings like that, and a lot of the time it's not due to a Potassium (K) deficiency as such, can be due to lack of K from nutrient lock out, which is still technically a K def, but not caused by not providing the plant with enough K ...

For Mr. Grumpy Pants; I've said this before, and I'll say it again, this is a pot growing forum... So, smoke a bowl of your finest, and chill out, be happy, be friendly, be helpful ... Attacking other members isn't helping anyone, constructive criticism is fine, hopefully know one gets too offended by it!

Anyway, seen as K def is out most likely cause in this situation, here is some extra info:
Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Click to expand...
I have every right to defend myself against such a blatant attempt at stupidity. There was nothing constructive about his misguided attempt at criticism, so while your comments are appreciated, they are off base. And those markings are classic K deficiency and mg on the other pic. If you read the post, you would see she has just started giving nutes. lets see, 2 month old plants, not being fed, you are right, it is not a deficiency it is lockout. How ca it be lockout when she has even nuted? Jees
 
GreenphoeniX

GreenphoeniX

Well-Known Member
I have every right to defend myself against such a blatant attempt at stupidity. There was nothing constructive about his misguided attempt at criticism, so while your comments are appreciated, they are off base. And those markings are classic K deficiency and mg on the other pic. If you read the post, you would see she has just started giving nutes. lets see, 2 month old plants, not being fed, you are right, it is not a deficiency it is lockout. How ca it be lockout when she has even nuted? Jees
Click to expand...
Because lockouts can be caused by many things from over-watering to over-feeding, adding too much of a particular nute that locks out another, poor growing medium to start with etc. ... Merely suggestions and things I have personally experienced.
I don't recall saying it is definitely lockout... I might have, but pretty sure I suggested it could be lockout, there is a difference between the two. Calm people realize that lol ;) tickle tickle :P
Like I said before... Chiiill... I'm sure she's got the problem under control and that's that.
No need to get all crazy bout it.

P.S - Dolomite Lime is always useful when growing in soil, I'd recommend to always use it in your soil or soiless mix or add it to your nutrient routine for at least some part of the grow, it is reasonably water soluble so can pretty much be used in liquid form ... Cheers.
 
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