Late-bloom period - PPM vs Suggested Dosages

I

Ingvar

Member
Hey folks, wanted to pick your brains on the following dilemma I'm facing in second half of bloom. When I mix in most of my nutes at recommended dosages (not even conservative), the solutions ends up being around 900 PPMs. This is well short of the recommended 1200PPMs a lot of growers target at this stage of flowering. My question is:

Should I add more nutes to hit the 1200 PPMs or should I keep using only at recommended dosages?

The culprit for lowered PPMs is the cutting out of FloraMicro & CalMag at this stage. My primary concern is that if I keep adding the PK-heavy supplements to hit 1200 PPMs, will it cause some sort of nute imbalance/lockout/deficiency? But if I don't, I feel like the plants will be slightly underfed and won't grow to their potential.

The nute lineup I'm using at this stage contains the following (not every time, but most of it is used at least every other watering):

ProTekt (until flush)
FloraMicro (half strength or none, depending on which week)
FloraBloom (until flush)
CalMag+ (half strength or none, depending on which week)
GH KoolBloom (Week 5-7)
Liquid Karma OR Floralicious Plus (half-strength or none, depending on which week)
DripClean
CarboLoad (until flush)

Appreciate the help!
 
Mr.5280

Mr.5280

Member
I personally max out @ 900-1000 ppm and yields have been getting much better with these lower numbers (almost hitting 2 a light) so I would suggest leaving it.
 
I

Ingvar

Member
I also recently started adding Avalanche to hard
Mr.5280 said:
I personally max out @ 900-1000 ppm and yields have been getting much better with these lower numbers (almost hitting 2 a light) so I would suggest leaving it.
Click to expand...
Thing is, my yields are nowhere near that high - I'm lucky if I get a pound a lamp. There are other factors at play for that, but I do wonder if I can make up some of the lost weight by staying at the higher end of PPMs. The plants certainly are not stressed (zero nute burn issues, ever) which only encourages me to keep targeting the higher PPMs.
 
Mr.5280

Mr.5280

Member
I have read higher PPM will get you better quality but less yield and vice versa but lowering PPM in my garden didnt effect quality and had big impact on yield. So I wouldnt suggest trying to hit 1200PPM but you need to play around and figure out what works best for you and your garden.
 
K

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
Here's a couple things to consider.
1) Go by your plants appearance. As long as they're green and healthy why mess with em
2) The labels on the bottles are only a suggestion the nute companies don't know what kind of plants you're growing. Their suggestions are usually high for obvious reasons.
3) Flushing is for toilets. Taste and burn comes from genetics and a proper dry and cure.
4) When you're measuring ppm different meters read different depending on brand.
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
Environment & plant size will play a HUGE roll in nutrient uptake requirements, the correct EC levels will need to be found for your specific environment & plant size because it varies. You'll need to "find" your strains sweet spot in whatever environment you use.
 
I

Ingvar

Member
KryptoBud said:
Here's a couple things to consider.
1) Go by your plants appearance. As long as they're green and healthy why mess with em
2) The labels on the bottles are only a suggestion the nute companies don't know what kind of plants you're growing. Their suggestions are usually high for obvious reasons.
3) Flushing is for toilets. Taste and burn comes from genetics and a proper dry and cure.
4) When you're measuring ppm different meters read different depending on brand.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input!

Question for your third point.. I perform the flush out of courtesy to the smokers (I don't smoke myself) to give them less harshness & fewer/no chemicals. Are you suggesting flushing is a waste in regards those two? (and if yes, would me feeding up to harvest increase yield?)
 
Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
Im running gg4 right now week 5 bloom and going in 12-1300, run off 17-1800 and happy as can be , my personal philosophy is run them hot all week tea on monday then boost them up again, when they hit 2000 i do a tea to bring them back down, i also push them super hard right from veg, got 2 per last round with 1000 hps's, also run co2 that help greatly with environment, what strain are you doing?
 
Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
Ingvar said:
Thanks for the input!

Question for your third point.. I perform the flush out of courtesy to the smokers (I don't smoke myself) to give them less harshness & fewer/no chemicals. Are you suggesting flushing is a waste in regards those two? (and if yes, would me feeding up to harvest increase yield?)
Click to expand...
Ingvar said:
Thanks for the input!

Question for your third point.. I perform the flush out of courtesy to the smokers (I don't smoke myself) to give them less harshness & fewer/no chemicals. Are you suggesting flushing is a waste in regards those two? (and if yes, would me feeding up to harvest increase yield?)
Click to expand...
Moab pk is awesome but dangersous 0-52-32 npk, i use that and hydroplex up until 5 days before harvest then do big time enzymes and terpinator 2 days then straight water second to last day, one ppms drop to 200 or so stop and let them dry out . Im going to try moab and hydroplex mix starting at 8 days before harvest and run em hot to see what happens, just in 2 pots though, cant really do all to much damage that close to harvest , hope that helps
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Using 600 hps, my nutes max out on my hungriest strains at 1.2ec (600 ppm) with most of my strains liking between 400-500 ppm. Coir DTW.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
My 600 in a 4x4 gets me between 24-30 ounces.
All I use is veg a&b, bloom a&b, cal-mag+ and hydroplex.
 
Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
jarvild said:
Using 600 hps, my nutes max out on my hungriest strains at 1.2ec (600 ppm) with most of my strains liking between 400-500 ppm. Coir DTW.
Click to expand...
Makes sense with 6 hundo, my buddy running same strain same lights as me is around 8-1200, i think glue will take just about anything you throw at it, also believe reading the plants is huge , if it works go with it...
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
Rambo8577 said:
Same here slica base bloom and hydrogaurd, cal mag once in a whie but the base and bloom i use has those in
Click to expand...
Running RO so I use 2.5 ml. per gallon to start to make sure my coir is charged with enough cal. After that just once a week.
I'm using Hydroplex as a bloom booster at 2.5 ml weeks 3-5 of flower.
 
Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
jarvild said:
Running RO so I use 2.5 ml. per gallon to start to make sure my coir is charged with enough cal. After that just once a week.
I'm using Hydroplex as a bloom booster at 2.5 ml weeks 3-5 of flower.
Click to expand...
Very wise jarvildson, starting with hyrdoplex last round worked great, everyones on a mammoth kick but not sure its worth the money,just changed my r/o filter , they say 7500 gallon life span , i figured about 5 maybe, waters running twice as fast now. You do any teas?
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
How about you follow the nutrient makers charting! The big 1200 number is not figured with your chosen nutrient - is it?

Hitting them hard late, depends on what with!

A realistic pattern for feeding MJ plants is to follow a well balanced nutrient program. Start out with a base ratio of around 3-1-2 or 3-2-2 and at the flip it should be like 3.5-2.5-3.5 or simply run the veg ratio till week 3 and then raise the P by at around dbl and increase slowly to trpl by week 5 and the K too, but not yet as much till week 5. At late bloom week 6. You drop the N and P back down to early bloom and boost the K by at least half. You can leave the P around 6 and still raise the K....

Late bloom use of super high P products aren't really helping - K is more important here, so is S..

Here, read what I say to this guy next

Rambo8577 said:
Moab pk is awesome but dangersous 0-52-32 npk, i use that and hydroplex up until 5 days before harvest then do big time enzymes and terpinator 2 days then straight water second to last day, one ppms drop to 200 or so stop and let them dry out . Im going to try moab and hydroplex mix starting at 8 days before harvest and run em hot to see what happens, just in 2 pots though, cant really do all to much damage that close to harvest , hope that helps
Click to expand...
Your NOT doing shit with anything 5 days before harvest! What you pour in a soil plant won't get there till that day 5!

In hydro you look to 3-5 days for a plant to begin to show effect from a feeding.
In soil - 5-7 days!

Anything you do in that last week - ain't doing enough!

0-52-32 is simply stupid for cannabis! During those last 2 weeks. The plants use of P is falling off. This starts slowly around week 5 and increases as it goes. K is used in an increasing amount to build bulk.....ALL macro nutes are still in use! Just at levels not many growers understand! Nutrient companies BS you with all kinds of nasty shit.....Your buying into one of them.

The use of that stupidly high priced "terpinator" should be done like they say to! Want to save real money on "Terpinator"? Look in the "Do it yourself" section and find my homemade formula for it!

S is critical for tric production and terp production. You can increase S by using a Mg sulfate or as in the case of Terpinator, a K sulfate! The nice part is that the Terpinator is increasing the K for the budswell too! I like to use a mix of Mg and K sulfate to increase the terp profile evenly!

K sulfate will give you a more "lemon or citrus" flavor and smell.
Mg sulfate will give you a more "berry" like result.

All those flavor increasing bottled nutrients, that have grape and pineapple and what ever on the labels or say they increase those....Are a mix of Mg and K sulfate and carbs. they are the exact same thing in different labeled bottles!

This is GG#4 at exactly 60 days in a 100% organic water only soil......You don't need "magic" elixirs or "potion's" to grow!
This was a higher N and K soil. You can see what that did to the plant - plainly.

20161102_095818.jpg

She was given a lighting change to kick her finish, and harvested 7 days later!
 
Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
The chart is a guideline, if you follow it a tea the ppms goin in are much high i cut them back by 2-3 mls at a time to get correct mix, i use as little nutrients as possible , putting a pk booster into a mix isnt magic, just basic, then a tea once a week for good measure, seems to be doing just fine, this was end of week 3
 

Attachments

Rambo8577

Rambo8577

Member
Dr. Who said:
How about you follow the nutrient makers charting! The big 1200 number is not figured with your chosen nutrient - is it?

Hitting them hard late, depends on what with!

A realistic pattern for feeding MJ plants is to follow a well balanced nutrient program. Start out with a base ratio of around 3-1-2 or 3-2-2 and at the flip it should be like 3.5-2.5-3.5 or simply run the veg ratio till week 3 and then raise the P by at around dbl and increase slowly to trpl by week 5 and the K too, but not yet as much till week 5. At late bloom week 6. You drop the N and P back down to early bloom and boost the K by at least half. You can leave the P around 6 and still raise the K....

Late bloom use of super high P products aren't really helping - K is more important here, so is S..

Here, read what I say to this guy next



Your NOT doing shit with anything 5 days before harvest! What you pour in a soil plant won't get there till that day 5!

In hydro you look to 3-5 days for a plant to begin to show effect from a feeding.
In soil - 5-7 days!

Anything you do in that last week - ain't doing enough!

0-52-32 is simply stupid for cannabis! During those last 2 weeks. The plants use of P is falling off. This starts slowly around week 5 and increases as it goes. K is used in an increasing amount to build bulk.....ALL macro nutes are still in use! Just at levels not many growers understand! Nutrient companies BS you with all kinds of nasty shit.....Your buying into one of them.

The use of that stupidly high priced "terpinator" should be done like they say to! Want to save real money on "Terpinator"? Look in the "Do it yourself" section and find my homemade formula for it!

S is critical for tric production and terp production. You can increase S by using a Mg sulfate or as in the case of Terpinator, a K sulfate! The nice part is that the Terpinator is increasing the K for the budswell too! I like to use a mix of Mg and K sulfate to increase the terp profile evenly!

K sulfate will give you a more "lemon or citrus" flavor and smell.
Mg sulfate will give you a more "berry" like result.

All those flavor increasing bottled nutrients, that have grape and pineapple and what ever on the labels or say they increase those....Are a mix of Mg and K sulfate and carbs. they are the exact same thing in different labeled bottles!

This is GG#4 at exactly 60 days in a 100% organic water only soil......You don't need "magic" elixirs or "potion's" to grow!
This was a higher N and K soil. You can see what that did to the plant - plainly.

View attachment 3868848

She was given a lighting change to kick her finish, and harvested 7 days later!
Click to expand...
image.jpg Last round week 7,no magic elixirs just given them what they want
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Rambo8577 said:
View attachment 3868853 Last round week 7,no magic elixirs just given them what they want
Click to expand...
NIce!

Not saying what you do doesn't work in the end result. I'll admit it. I played with MOAB for awhile. I left it behind and moved to a lower P and K of around 0-6-19 and did better then with the MOAB.......Just goes to show that dial in is everything!

Just some plant info.....In your case with Coco, you are getting things done the last week - sorry, I missed the coco part!

Again, nice op and good looking results..
 
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