Late-bloom period - PPM vs Suggested Dosages
- Thread starter Ingvar
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- bloom feeding schedule ppm
Rambo8577
Member
Th
thanks man, you as well , hard to get it to purple up like that gotta do it just right
Rambo8577
Member
Y
just playing with moab as well cut it down by 3/4 , trying to figure out the ration of ppm of p and k by gram weight, any idea how to do that math trying keep p at 60-70ppm or lower, k around 60-80...
rickyrozayyy
Well-Known Member
Crank it up. Only way to find out if your strain can take it. Especially in late bloom. If you're a week out. It may give you a slight gain.
Thanks guys, appreciate all the input, even when it's all different in opinion 
So is the consensus that K is more important in last 2-3 weeks universal then? Because most supplement charts seem to emphasize P (given the ratios they make these nutrients). What's a good K booster I can get?
So is the consensus that K is more important in last 2-3 weeks universal then? Because most supplement charts seem to emphasize P (given the ratios they make these nutrients). What's a good K booster I can get?
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys, appreciate all the input, even when it's all different in opinion
So is the consensus that K is more important in last 2-3 weeks universal then? Because most supplement charts seem to emphasize P (given the ratios they make these nutrients). What's a good K booster I can get?
synthetic - give Atami blossom builder a shot. Terpinator is higher K - Look in the "Do It Yourself" section and learn how to make your own for less then $5 a gallon......If label shopping for bottled ingr. high in K... skip K Nitrate - your adding N, and you want to avoid that in late bloom
Way too much attention is given to P, by nutrient makers....Too early too!
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
N=0% P=52% K=32% You can't get a ppm of P AND K around the same thing. The binders and carriers of the nutrient are adding ppm too. You would need single nutrients to get to the ppm values your wanting.
jarvild
Well-Known Member
No teas used here. All my indoors is straight synthetics.
If you want straight K I would check on some Potash for supplementation.
Also use of mag late in flower with high K levels is detrimental as K is often absorbed first before Mag. This is common knowledge in the AG world.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
I like a mix of K and Mg sulfate. The added S is helpful too.
jarvild
Well-Known Member
Yes S is helpful, as its a major player in amino acid production.
What I was stating is that high K levels are detrimental to mag uptake as the K+ ion will be taken up before the Mg+ ion will.
Flowki
Well-Known Member
I think it's a really good idea to try and grow with an experimental pot that you water fully but with no run off. That is if your setup/medium will allow such a practice.
It does not work if the neuts used are crap, too strong or wrong ratios. A hydro neut line with only the required elements you can have more control over N, sulfur etc as DR.who was saying. Around 800ppm while slightly playing with ratio (if you reduce N a little, increase pk by same ppm amount etc) seems ok but no doubt will vary. If the plant was healthy with 800 ppm then implement it next time and feed all 900ppm with run off as a safety net.
Probably not worth the hassle if you are always changing strains. I suppose you will still learn a lot instead of relying entirely on run off, so maybe worth it regardless.
It does not work if the neuts used are crap, too strong or wrong ratios. A hydro neut line with only the required elements you can have more control over N, sulfur etc as DR.who was saying. Around 800ppm while slightly playing with ratio (if you reduce N a little, increase pk by same ppm amount etc) seems ok but no doubt will vary. If the plant was healthy with 800 ppm then implement it next time and feed all 900ppm with run off as a safety net.
Probably not worth the hassle if you are always changing strains. I suppose you will still learn a lot instead of relying entirely on run off, so maybe worth it regardless.
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