Learning Annex

Growing Marijuana - THC marijuana potency.

Variations in marijuana potency

The potency of a particular marijuana sample will vary because of many factors other then the variety. Many of these have to do with the natural development of the plants and their resin glands. Environmental factors do affect potency but there are large differences in any variety. These inherent factors must be explained before we can talk of factors outside the plant that affect relative potency.

Variations in Marijuana Potency Within Varieties of Marijuana

There are noticeable differences in THC concentrations between plants of the same variety. Differences are large enough so that you can tall (by smoking) that certain plants are better. This is no news to homegrowers, who often find a particular plant to be outstanding. Five-fold differences in THC concentration have also shown up in research. However, when you consider a whole group of plants of the same variety, they're relatively similar in cannabinoid concentrations. Type II plants are the most variable, with individual plants much higher than other in certain canninbinoids.

Variations by Plant Part

The concentration of cannabinoids depends on the plant part, or more specifically, the concentration and development of resin glands to plant part. The female flower bracts have the highest concentration of resin glands and are usually the most potent plant parts. Seeds and roots have no resin glands. These shoe no more than traces of canninbinoids. Smoke seeds will give you a headache before you can get high. If you got high on seeds, then there were probably enough bracts adhering to the seeds to get you high

On the right are the potencies, in descending order, of the various plant parts

Female flowering clusters. In practice you don't separate hundreds of tiny bracts to make a joint. The whole flowering mass (seeds removed), along with small accompanying leaves, forms the material.

Male flower clusters. These vary more in relative potency depending on the strain (see "Potency by Sex," below). Growing shoots. Before the plants flower, the vegetative shoots (tips) of the main stem and branches are the most potent plant parts.

Leaves (a) that accompany flowers (small); (b) along branches (medium);(c) along main stem (large). Generally, the smaller the leaf is, the more potent it can be.

Petioles (leaf stalks). Same order as leaves.

Stems. Same order as leaves. The smaller the stem (twig), the higher the possible concentration of cannabinoids. Stems over 1/16" in diameter contain only traces of cannabinoids and are not worth smoking. The small stems that bear the flowers can be quite potent.

Seeds and Roots. Contain only traces (less then .01 percent) and are not worth smoking or extracting.

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Pruning Tips For Marijuana Plants

From Project 420

Each time a growing tip is clipped, the stem branches into two shoots, which begin to grow from the nearest leaf axils. Pruning a growing marijuana plant is an easy way of controlling uneven growth without seriously harming the plant. Don't prune the growing tip of a young seedling until after the first five-bladed leaves have formed, and the vegetative stage has begun. Many growers prune the growing tips after four to five weeks growth to develop lower branches which will quickly fill all the horizontal space. The greatest potency of the growing plant is found in the growing tips, and by three months, they should make a high quality smoke. You can basically prune growing tips at any stage of the plant's development, but just don't overdo it. Severe pruning can harm the growth of the plant. It is always better to plan a pruning strategy for your developing plants, rather than haphazardly clipping off growing tips on an irregular basis. Each time a growing tip is removed, the plant takes a few days to recover before new growth resumes on that branch. The amount of new growth formed with continued pruning is limited by the genetic structure of the seed, and the conditions of the environment. It is better to prune your plants at an early stage of their development, than towards the end of the vegetative stage or during flowering. It is always better to prune growing tips in the morning than in the evening, as it gives the plant a full day to recover and heal the wounds. It is not recommended that you prune every new node in a developing plant. Rather prune every second or third node to allow the plant time to recover. Wait for the new node to start growing before clipping the young branch a few millimeters above the previous node's newly formed leaves. It is always better to use a small scissors to prune your plants, than to simply pluck off the growing tips by hand. Do not prune any growing tips if you notice that your plant's health is declining and it has started losing leaves. Although you should always smoke the pruned growing tips, plants should be pruned to develop their growth rather than for smoking purposes. While it may be tempting to prune female buds during early flowering, your harvest will be severely reduced by doing so. Cannabis Indica is a genetically smaller and more bushy plant than Cannabis Sativa and usually requires less pruning. Never prune more than the single growing tip, or upper-most node, from any branch on the growing plant.

The upper-most growing tip of an unpruned marijuana plant will always be more potent that the top buds of a pruned plant grown in similar conditions. Pruning the tallest branches ensures that the lower branches grow upwards, forming a larger surface area for the light to cover. The clear fluid that often flows from the end of a newly pruned branch, contains substances which seal the wound and aid the healing process. Although it is recommended that you remove all dying leaves from the plant, you should resist the temptation to prune too many healthy leaves. To grow seedless marijuana, you should remove all the male plants as soon as they are discovered, by pruning the main stem right above the ground if grown in soil, or removing the plant from a hydroponic garden. Although it may be better developed, a pruned marijuana plant does not always produce more buds than an unpruned plant. Another good reason for pruning is to take cuttings from a strong growing, favorite plant for further hydroponic development. Marijuana growers often prune their plants in an attempt to limit their height and prevent unwanted detection. An alternative to pruning for developing growth, is to bend the tops of the branches over and tie the growing tips down with string or wire. Remember that by pruning a growing tip, you are removing the most potent part of the plant, thereby spoiling it's chance of reaching full maturity. By pruning all the buds at harvest time, rather than cutting the stem off above the ground, you could easily harvest your plant a second time. By severely pruning your marijuana plants you are lowering their resistance to harmful natural enemies such as insects, fungus and frost. You can make a great cup of tea, by chopping up some pruned growing tips and soaking them in boiled water for a few minutes. Cannabis is a very hardy and adaptable plant, and will endure serious harm to it's leaves, branches and stem before it dies.

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How Do You Prune Marijuana Plants

(Q) I've tried to read everything on pruning and I still don't get it. My plants are almost a month old, have three and four sets of leaves and seem very healthy.
(A) First off, you might not have to prune them. Second, leaves are not usually the purpose or the target of pruning. Third, knowing why you prune, and what happens when you do so will probably answer all the rest of the questions.

You Prune For Two Reasons:

1) To control the upward or outward growth of your plants. In other words to keep them short.
2) To promote node sites (or bud sites). In other words to create more branches (growing tips).

When you look at the mainstem of the plant and how the leaves grow from it, you will find it will be identical to any branch that grows from it, or any branches that grow from them, etc. So any reference I make to the mainstem here, holds true for any branches, or any branches that grow from those branches, etc. The point at where a leaf joins the mainstem (or branch) is the node, at the node and just above the leafs' stem (petiole) you will find a **bud**. This bud will become a branch. Under the right conditions branches will grow. Now, keep in mind that some varieties of plants are good branchers, some are not. Now let's assume the reason we're pruning is #2 above, to promote node sites or branching. If you cut the top of the mainstem off then look at the plant, there will be some leaves and associated nodes. Since the top of the plant is gone, the growth energy that would go there is now going to the remaining nodes because it has nowhere else to go. What you did by topping the plants was to FORCE growth at the nodes thus promoting branching. The nodes nearest the light will grow the fastest. You would do this if you don't want a plant to grow too tall, but would rather want it to grow out. If this is your first crop you'll understand much better what you want once you've watched a plant through its entire life cycle. If you topped the plant for reason #1, all the above would still occur as a by-product, and most likely you would have to deal with the top branches eventually becoming too tall.

(Q) Where exactly do I make the cuts?
(A) Appx 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the node that will remain on the plant.

For cutting off leaves, cut them midway on the petiole.

(Q) Which set of leaves do I cut?
(A) You don't cut leaves off, you're just using the leaves as an easy way to identify the nodesites. I believe every leaf feeds energy to its nodesite, cut off the leaf and the branch at that nodesite may not develop as expected.

(Q) And why am I cutting them?
(A) Usually you don't cut leaves off unless there dying, or you have a big fat juicy bud that's trying to grow underneath a big leaf. If the bud would benefit from the light the leaf is shading, you decide which you'd rather have

(Q) My logic would be the more leaves the better opportunity for photosynthesis.
(A) As long as the light can get to them.

The only leaves that are going to use the light are the ones facing the light. A few leaves deeper into the canopy and the extra leaves wont do you any good. HID lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than fluorescent. Side lit systems like the phototron require you to prune to promote branching * AND* to remove larger leaves that tend to grow nearest the lights in order for direct light to benefit the newer inner branches. The main reason this works in a phototron is the side lightings ability to get under leaves that want to grow horizontally. Without removing leaves near the light the trons fluorescent wouldn't penetrate. Top lit systems depend on light penetration qualities of the lamp going through and around the leaf to do this. I'd say a top lit garden would have enough leaves (full canopy) when you don't see much light when looking up at the lights from the bottom of the canopy. A phototron is like a top lit garden only on its side and rolled up into a circle. Its canopy are the sides of the unit. One thing about pruning to remember is that one thick stemmed shoot tip is being replaced by two or more much thinner shoot tips. Buds may be more numerous but they will be smaller. A pruning rule of thumb: The thinner the shoots, the smaller the fruits.

(Q) I have seven plants and plenty of room . Thanks in advance.
(A) As I said, you might not have to prune.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to do it on one plant just to get the experience. Just be prepared for a shorter bushier plant than the rest. In the end you might find that 1 or 2 pruned plants can do as well as the 7 you have now.

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Can I start flowering after 6 weeks? I have been growing my seedlings in a wick system set-up for almost a month and a half now. There are three female plants that are over a foot tall with a large amount of leafy growth. When is it time to start flowering them? If I were to start the flowering regimen now would it hurt my mature flowers in any way later on?

It depends on what size you want the ripened plant to be and the variety that you are growing. Once the light regimen is switched from vegetative (18 to 24 hours of light daily) to flowering (12 hours of darkness daily) the plant's growth changes to flowering. After the light regimen is changed, varieties with mostly Indica characteristics grow another 25-50% before they stop vegetative growth. Most varieties offered by seed companies are hybrids with many Indica characteristics. They are suitable to grow as medium-sized plants, growing two to three feet tall with a canopy of about a square foot. Many of these varieties can be used in sea of green set-ups. The plants are forced to flower at a height of 6-12 inches and are 15-24 inches tall at ripening, with a canopy of one-quarter to one-half square foot per plant. Sativa plants tend to continue growing vegetatively for a while. Some pure Sativa varieties continue to grow to a certain size, usually three feet, even when forced to flower at 12 inches. Many Sativas are also insensitive to 12/12 light regimens. The reason is that at the equator, which passes through Colombia, Congo, Borneo and near Panama, the light is near 12 hours all year around. They use other indicators of flowering time. These may include other factors, but the plant size and possibly its age are factors that determine flowering. With some Sativas, flowering can extend for four months or more. The first flowers appear as the plant is still growing vegetatively and the plant puts more energy into reproduction as time passes. Sativas from the 20th parallel have some light sensitivity but are still sensitive to their size regarding flowering. Land-races from Vietnam, Thailand, Jamaica and southern Mexico fit into this category. Most commercial varieties of Sativa are actually hybrids with some Indica in their background. They are sensitive to light and generally ripen late in the season. Indoors, they are easiest to grow by giving them some room to spread out, at least two square feet of canopy per plant. They also need three to four feet of vertical space. They don't do well in sea of green set-ups. Hybrid Sativas and Indicas can be forced to flower at any size. The quality of the buds is not time dependent, nor is it a factor of the size of the plant. Buds maturing on two clones from the same plant, one newly rooted and the other a large plant growing vegetatively for three months, will produce equal quality buds. Ultimately, the decision is yours. Figure out how big you want the plant to be when it's ripe. The smaller the plant is when it is forced to flower, the smaller the bud will be at ripening.

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What is color temperature of a bulb?

The color of a light source entails a complicated relationship of different factors, that are important in determining the right light source for your garden. The advantage of Metal Halide lamps is that they provide high-quality, crisp white light in a variety of different color temperatures that meet the needs of many different users.

Correlated Color Temperature(CCT)

The first factor in choosing a color of lamp is to determine whether you need a warm or cool light source. The CCT, expressed in Kelvin degrees, relates to actual thermal temperature. If you've ever seen a piece of metal being heated, you know that as the metal gets hotter, it's color changes. The CCT rating of HID and flourescent light sources indicate how warm or cool the light source is. For instance a lamp with a CCT of 2700 Kelvin is considered warm; with a CCT of 4200 Kelvin is considered neutral; and one of 6000 Kelvin is considered cool.

Spectral Energy Distribution

When you look at a light source, you perceive seeing a single color, but you are actually seeing thousands of hues. The combinations of different wavelengths of light make up the color we see. The relative intensity of the various wavelengths are used to determine a light source's Color Rendering Index(CRI).

Color Rendering Index(CRI)

The CRI is an indication of a lamps ability to show individual colors relative to a standard. This value is determined from a comparison of the lamp's spectral distribution compared to a black body at the same color temperature. Light sources, such as metal halide lamps, are rated with a CCT; however, CCT does not provide any information on the quality of the color. For this, a CRI is also necessary. In general, the higher the CRI rating of a lamp, the better the different colors will show.

5K - 7K Kelvin: Strong Blue Light Promotes bushy growth. Ideal for rapid growth phase of plants. Greatly enhances all-around plant growth when used with super high output, high pressure sodium or 3K warm metal halide lamps.

4. 2K - 4200 Kelvin: Cool white Flourescents Can be used as supplimental blue lighting when used with a 3K source.

4K - 4000 Kelvin: Neutral Metal Halide Best single source for plant growth, producing shorter, bushier growth than 3700 Kelvin and color rendition. Used in general plant lighting.

3. 7K - 3700 Kelvin: Softer Metal Halide(coated) This coated lamp is used in general plant lighting and for more rapid growth than 4000 Kelvin produces.

3K - 3200 Kelvin: Warm Metal Halide Highest photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) value of all HID lighting for all phases of plant growth. PAR watts account for the nutritional value of light and are a direct measure of the light energy available for photosythesis.

2. 7K - 2700 Kelvin: High Pressure Sodium Lamps Redder color mix, used for propagation, blooming, supplemental greenhouse lighting.

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How do I foliar feed?

Foliar feeding instructions:

You can use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants. To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage.

* The best temperature is about 72 degrees (when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open); at over 80, they may not be open at all. So, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer part of the day if it is cold out.
* Use a good quality sprayer -- should atomise the solution to a very fine mist.
* Always be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding! For extra safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.D lights are raised to a safe distance (double the distance is a good rule of thumb) to prevent burning.
* Make sure the PH of your solution is between 7 and 6. 2.
* To prevent the water from beading up (acting as small prisms) and thereby burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of liquid detergent (wetting agent).
* Spray leaf surface -- the tops and the undersides -- until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. Stop spraying 2 weeks into flowering -- use sparingly on bud sites.
* Dispose of excess spray according to manufactures instructions— home made fertilizer sprays will be fine for at least 2 weeks.
* Spray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the foliage with plain ph'd water to reduce salt build-up.

EDITORS NOTES: Personally, I do not foliar feed in any situations other then those mentioned below, as, IMO, it does not seem to be necessary if using a well-managed hydroponic set-up. The reasons I foliar feed, are mainly to reduce nutritional stress situations. I avoid spraying bud sites, as nitrate salts (the "n" in NPK) are very unhealthy to smoke, fish emulsion smells, and Bat guano could be highly unsanitary so stick to hygenic solutions.

Benefits of foliar spraying:

* To provide a quick nutrient fix for root-zone nutrient problems or deficiencies; this allows more time to solve the problem(s).
* To prevent excess yellowing on clones.
* To instantly provide nutrients via the leaves, which reduces stress on the suffering plant.

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Grow Lights FAQ

The purpose of this FAQ is to help limit the spread of misinformation regarding effective artificial lighting systems, and help those who choose to grow plants under artificial lighting make an informed decision before buying a lamp. Most of the information contained in this FAQ comes from printed sources, and some from electronically distributed files. Very little comes from my own experience, as I have not owned, used or examined most of the systems discussed here. This FAQ is not going to tell you how to use your lamp, that information can be found in most grower's guides.

Introduction:

There are three major types of lighting systems available right now: incandescent, fluorescent, and high intensity discharge. Incandescent lights are horribly inefficient (especially the screw-in grow bulb type) and really not an acceptable option for plant growth. Although they are inexpensive to purchase, their cost of operation makes them the costliest source of light.

Florescents:

Until the early 1980's most indoor growers used fluorescent lights to illuminate their garden. These tubes have tremendous advantages over incandescents. They emit about 3 times as much light as an incandescent (given the same wattage), and the light spectrum is one that plants con use more effectively. However, they do certainly have their limitations. Light is emitted over a large area, so it is not concentrated. Because of this, the lights have to be hung very close to the plants, and constantly moved to accommodate plant growth. This makes garden maintenance rather difficult. Florescents are, however, very useful in cloning, and starting seedlings. Because in these stages, a plant is not growing vertically very quickly, the disadvantages of moving the lights are reduced. They also put out a more gentle light than the HID lamps, and release less heat. If you choose to use florescents, it is best to purchase the 'cool white' variety. The ones that are sold as grow lamps (including grow-lux, vitalite, etc.) are much less efficient than a standard fluorescent, and just do not put out enough light to be useful. The slightly different spectrum produced by these lamps does nothing for most plants.

High Intensity Discharge Lamps (HID's)

High intensity discharge lamps are easier to use, and more efficient. Low wattage HIDs are sometimes sold for household outdoor use. Large Wattage lamps are used for lighting streets, parking lots, stadiums and other large areas. They come in two basic flavors:

METAL HALIDES or MH lamps emit a white light that looks slightly bluish. They are used to light stadiums, convention centers, gymnasiums, and other large areas where a natural looking light is desired.

HIGH PRESSURE SODIUM or HPS lamps emit a pink or amber light. They are used for lighting parking lots and other areas where the color of the light is not important. HPS units are much more efficient than MH ones, producing more light and less heat per watt of energy consumed. They are often used alone with no detrimental effect on the plants, and will promote faster plant growth than MH lamps during both vegetative growth and flowering. Combinations of bulbs are NOT required, as the HPS lamp does produce all of the light spectrums necessary for healthy growth. MH lamps are available in 175,200, 400 and 1000 watt sizes. HPS lamps come in 50, 75, 150, 400 and 1000 watt sizes. Each lamp requires its own ballast, which comes with the fixtures that are designed to use these lamps, and are also available separately.

The following chart shows how much light each lamp emits, and the area that it covers adequately:

Lamp # of Lumens Sq. Ft 4'FL
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](CoolWhite-40W) 2,960 1-2 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]8'FL (CoolWhite-75W) 5,800 2-4 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]MH 175W 14,000 5-10 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]MH 400W 40,000 12-20 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]HPS 70W 7,600 3-6 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]HPS 150W 16,000 6-11 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]HPS 400W 50,000 15-30[/FONT]

Gardens should receive 1000-3000 lumens per square foot. Successful gardens usually are lit at around 2,000 lumens per square foot. During the vegetative stage, plants stretch out when they receive low levels of light. During flowering, the flowers are looser and sparse. So what is the best lamp for growing? It depends on your budget. HPS lamps are by far the best overall, but they are also the most costly to purchase and setup (although some less honest growers have a tendency to steal them from college campuses and the like). However, they are the cheapest to operate, and the utility savings does eventually add up. A quick warning: At least in the US, there are large government agencies whose only purpose is to eliminate the growth of marijuana. Although purchasing a high powered lighting system does not mean that you will be growing pot (and many people grow other things artificially), it is still not a really good idea to link your name with the purchase of one of these lamps (especially the larger ones). 1) Order online with someone elses credit card (person with no record, like Granny), and have the items delivered to a squeaky clean house. Wait a while before picking the stuff up. 2) Or go into the store knowing exactly what you want, pay for it in cash, and do not give them your name (or give them a false one if they even ask). Most lighting distributors will not ask any questions.

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Got any tips for hard to clone plants?

Some varieties are easier to clone than others. There are Sativas that will sprout roots so easy, you can (almost) stick them in the ground and forget em. But then there are some early Indicas that you can baby and they will just sit there and starve to death. So there are a few things you have got to look at. Help the roots grow. Figure out where the roots will grow on your cutting before you actually cut it. Keep this portion of the stem dark for a week or two by wrapping some tape around it. This is called "etiolation" and will encourage rooting. Make the cutting with a sharp anvil pruner or very sharp scissors, and sterilize them after each cut. A dull pruner will crush the stem and it will be harder for the roots to form. A razor blade will make an even cleaner cut, which will also help rooting, but don't blame me if you cut yourself. Try to make the cut at angle to increase the surface area it has to absorb water. The plant needs air to help the roots form, but don't let any get in the stem. This will cut off the capillary action and make the poor cutting work harder. Immediately dunk the cut end in water or rooting solution to prevent this from happening. You could even take it over to the sink and make a second cut under running water if you're really worried about it. Leave it in the rooting solution for a day or so. If you just leave it in the water, you might get lucky and sprout some roots, but they really need some oxygen. You can actively provide O2 by aeration or passively aerate by using an airy medium. Another thing that makes the cutting work harder is breathing itself. Use a plastic dome or humidity tent to limit transpiration and keep the medium from drying out, and. Half of a 16 oz plastic drink bottle fits right on top of a 3 inch clay pot. Another way to limit transpiration is to cut about half off of each leaflet. You will still have the same number of leaves on the stem, but the surface area has decreased. This also helps control fungus by preventing the leaves from contacting the dome or the medium. The proper lighting is also important. Direct sunlight will heat the air in the dome too much, but they're not going to root in the dark either. Fluorescents are ideal for this. An HID is OK if it’s not too close, or you could even give them a bit of indirect sun from a window if you can keep them warm. You’ve kept an eye on the pH and the nutes, and you see it’s starting to grow again, so its safe to assume that it has roots and you can remove the humidity dome. Occasionally a cutting may wilt a little at first, but give it a mist and it should perk up. If none of these tips help, either consider tissue culture or finding a different mother.

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General Hydroponic Recipes Salt Fert Recipes

Geeezz i like answers like this. This is the kind of discussions i am looking for. I wish i was as diplomat and fine writer like you. But unfortunatly i am not I am a rough, short fused ,undiplomatic and grouchy old fart. maybe reading messages like yours and ~shabang~ will teach me how to act properly here. I am working on it You got it right bro. If i would be newbie, i would not start with salt fert. It is simply too complicated. But when i did start growing many years ago, GH wasn't on the market yet,so i have had to learn to work with salt fert. And since then i can compare the difference between both type of fert. from seeing other crop of my friends who are using GH. And they keep asking me how to get the harsh taste out of their weed. But they wouldn't switch for salts, so i sure don't expect to convert everyone here I never did work with organic fert, since i wouldn't have a clue about what is going on in the substract when i would be adding some chem fert like GH. Impossible to know because of the large amount of mineral in organic fert, combine with Chemical fert, end up being a brew too hard to control. I don't like to not knowing what is going with my fertilization. The only thing i can say is as long as urea nitrate is used, it will be very hard to get a smooth taste with the finished product. urea Nitrate seem to stick forever in the plant and is so hard to wash out. My friend have tried to rinse with water only for 2 weeks prior harvesting and they still have this harsh taste, and i don't. I don't cure neither. It is on the market 5 days after harvesting with no harsh taste and very sweet. Those who are using organic fert should not add micronutrient before half way thru the growing process. It is less harmfull to lack a bit of micronutrient than to have too much of them. Many peoples are overfeeding, wich create super problems. Don't forget that the guys selling the product wants you to use as much as possible , they want to make money. I suggest to those who want to do a test, to have a few plants with half the fert you are using for the other plants and see for yourself. Can you beleive i have been fertilizing my KONG weed only twice a week so far? and do they ever grow fast these guys. You can see when your plant is ready for another shot of fert because of the top leaves getting paler green. The main thing is better less fert than too much. when nutrient start to lock up it is very hard to know what to use to undo this since we can't know exactly what is locked up with what. if you don't overfertilize you won't get fert lock up. Micronutrient are the most touchy part about fertilizing. It has to do with the kind of water you are using. Other thing that growers should know is the amount of oxygen the roots system get. OK ,P2O5 has 5 atoms of oxygen for 2 phosphorus,but as soon as you balance your ph the O5 is reacting and oxydize turning iron to rust and zn to who knows what, instead of giving the oxygen to the roots. This is why it is an incredible mess to describe. If anyone wants to learn more about all of this go to this url . EVERYTHING is there. Full course on nutrient and all.:http://res.agr.ca/harrow/bk/toma99.htm Doesn't matter if they talk about tomatoes, super site to learn about ferts. read the section about Soil reaction (ph) they know what they are talking about. Will save me a lot of typing i hope this help Bye for now and thanx for the input. I needed that

I would give some tricks about salt fert only if there are someone using this kind of fertilizer right now,or intend too. It would be useless for me to post on salt fert if nobody plan to use it. If there is someone who is starting with salt fert, let me say this: don't be surprise to see larger leaves and paler as well. Don't overuse Nitrate to try to get the same dark green as GH would do, the leaves are very happy with this paller green. The plant will grow much faster than with other type of fert so you will have to watch closely cause it will go fast and you will have to keep track of the calcium Nitrate ,because it is the only Composant of all the familly to watch for. Calcium Nitrate does wonder but can kill the plant too if missused. The other composants will stay the same ratio during all the plant life, only the amount will vary. You don't have to use K2SO4 ,instead raise the KH2PO4 and KN03, slightly. Overfeeding is easily recognised with salt Fert because of the rapidity of this type of ferts to work. If you start seeing Nitrate overfert, Rinse the medium and let the plant drink the water. you won't burn them unless you fertilize when the medium is too dry. Over feeding with P or K is very rare with salt fert . The only one to watch for will be the Micro nute, don't overuse it, and the Calcium Nitrate. If i get some peoples interested on this subject, i will post later on the WONDER of Calcium Nitrate and all the Good things this stuff can do to your plant. Friendly yours Frenchie ... O.M. is gonne

I hand water ,in Promix#4, i use a garbage container about 80 liter. One is filled with water and Monophosphate potassium KH2PO4 (one small plastic fert cup) Micro nutes and one tea spoon of MgSO4 (half a fert cup)depending if the water in your locality is hard or soft. hard water contain enough Magnesium , Calcium and sulfates to do the job. I use this Mix for Washing twice a week. If the promix is too dry, use plain water ,wait 2 hours then fertilize. The other container is filled with the full recipe.Smaller the plant ,more water i use (to let the medium get dry ,good for the roots). The solution has to be as fresh as possible, not cold.When you fill up the reservoirs, make sure to make as much bubbling with the hose to oxygenate the water. At the rate the plants will drink,you should never have some old solution. When flowering,i use half and half (both reservoir)so i can play with the Nitrates. Fresh Promix should keep his PH in good shape aqll the way. Overwatering degrade the peatmoss . With salt ferts to tell you the thruth, the last time i did check the PH was 15 years ago and was neutral so i never checked it again since. The only way i can see if something goes wrong is by looking at the leaves and the way they grow. The growth will be very consistant, so if something goes wrong,you can see it. The only fert to watch is like i said calcium Nitrate, this stuff on an very thirsty (dry) will kill it in 4 hours. If you see the tip of the leaves turning brown, flush with water and let it dry and pray. I 'll stop here for now. waiting for questions.

calling it monophosphate potassium may get some strange looks across the counter, better to call it monopotassium phosphate. True there is only one phosphorus atom per molecule and thus "mono = one" says monophosphate is fine, the ambiguity in the compound is the number of potassium atoms present as the phosphate can attract one, two or three potassiums, thus it is better to specify "monopotassium phosphate" and there'll be no ambiguity as to the number of potassium atoms per phoshate compound. Using a heater would do, just make sure you make some Bubling each day to keep the oxygen level nice. if you go with a Pump system,then the water get oxyganeted with the flow and spraying. One can for example: make a new solution, go with it for one day, if half the solution is left in the reservoir,add water for the next day. Then discard waht's left ,to get a fresh solution on the third day. The best is to be able to use the solution as quickly as possible but i sometime use the same solution for up to 4 days if i don't have enough plants and too much solution. After stretching wich was minimal the Kong went down to a more normal level as water intake.... When one plant is processing at least one liter of fluid a day, you can say ...it is in shape and growing. 2 liter a day, you're in business.

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HOW TO PRESERVE POT POTENCY...by stopping bugs and fungi before they damage your weed

by The Bush Doctor

Growers taking time to harvest a healthy cornucpoia of cannabis must also carefully watch over their cut crops. In addition to two-legged thieves, myriad bacteria, molds and insects have been known to rip-off your stash while curing, drying, or in the fridge. Avoiding these ubiquitous threats is nearly impossible, but there is a way to lessen their impact. The key is being able to manipulate storage conditions. A variety of bacteria grow on damp marijuana. Many are deadly. Researchers have found Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter cloacae and Streptococcus (group D) growing in government-supplied reefer. Salmonella muenchen was found in marijuana growing across the Midwest. (Let someone else roll the joints. I don't lick rolling papers anymore!) Under anaerobic conditions (i.e., damp marijuana stored in airtight containers), Clostridium species will rot pot; these are the famous boutlism bacteria. In addition, a number of bacteria-like Actinomycetes have been identified in confiscated ganja, including Thermoactinomyces candidus, T. vulgaris, and Micropolyspora faeni. These bugs cause allergic reactions (sometimes severe), as well as "Farmer's lung" disease. Insects in pot are less intense. Growroom critters, such as aphids and spider mites, rarely damage marijuana after harvest. Smith & Olson (a list of references appears at the end of this article) identified five beetle species from confiscated Mexican weed in San Francisco. They completed this study at the request of the DEA agents, whose offices were overrun by the pests. The predominant species, Tribolium confusum (confused flour beetle), attacks only seeds, not marijuana proper. Two other beetles cited in the study, Adistermia watsoni and Microgramme arga, are fungus feeders (the marijuana was moldy). Thankfully, the researchers found no cannabis equivalent to Lasioderma serricone, the tobacco cigarette beetle. Otherwise some whacked government lab would be growing the bugs en masse to spread across the continent. Fungi destroy more bud than bacteria and insects combined. Bacteria in marijuana may be more dangerous to humans, but they are rare. Molds are common, and can be nasty: Ramirez reports four policeman developing pulmonary histoplasmosis after pulling up a 5,000-square-meter plot of marijuana in Puerto Rico. Some fungi won't rot pot, but they will put you in the hospital. Many fungi causing disease in plants die off after their host is harvested. Exceptions include Botrytis cinerea (the cause of gray mold) and Alternaria alternata (brown blight). After harvest, your competition becomes Aspergillus, Penicillium, Rhizopus, and Mucor, the baddest actors on the planet. Each genus causes disease under different conditions: Ubiquitous Aspergillus grows on anything from rocket fuel to astronauts. The genus is millions of years old; while Home sapiens may come and go, Aspergillus will remain. Westendorp first found an Aspergillus species attacking Cannabis in 1854. More recently, Margolis & Clorfene describe a mold that increases potency in marijuana. Their "black weblike fungus" sounds like an Aspergillus species. What species, I'd like to know....

Schwartz scraped Aspergillus niger from the skull of a marijuana smoker experiencing sinus headaches. I frequently encounter A. niger growing in ganja stored at room temperature. It does not increase potency. Kagen also reports A. niger growing in moldy marijuana, along with two even nastier Aspergilli: A. fumigatus and A. flavus. Chusid et al. blame A. fumigatus for causing near-fatal pneumonitis in a 17-year-old. They note the patient buried his marijuana underground for "aging." No doubt the patient was looking for Margolis & Clorfene's fungus, but A. fumigatus found him instead. A. flavus, on the other hand, kills slowly. It oozes carcinogenic metabolites called aflatoxins. Llewellyn & O'Rear found aflatoxins contaminating Virginian marijuana. Aspergillus species grow better in warmer climates, Penicillium in cooler climates. Refrigerator storage encourages Penicillium infestation. Kagen et al. isolated Penicillium from marijuana cigarettes. Babu et al. identified P. chrysogenum attacking marijuana. (P. chrysogenum occurs abundantly in nature, and was Alexander Fleming's source of penicillin.) I isolated P. italicum from marijuana stored with an orange peel at 0 degrees Centigrade. Adding peels to pot imparts a "pleasant bouquet" (Frank & Rosenthal). In my case, the peel imparted a nidus of infection. P italicum, the "blue citrus mold," is notorious for its ability to spread by contact (i.e., "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch"). Five Mucor species have been described on Cannabis. Members of this genus grow fast and die young. One of them, M. hiemalis, regrettably bioconcentrates (and cannot metabolize) the herbicide paraquat from tainted substrates (Domsch et al.). Mucor's first cousin, Rhizopus, occurs in soil, ripe foodstuffs, and occasionally on people (especially diabetics). Grebeniuk isolated R. stolonifer from hemp stems. In an inoculation experiment, I quickly rotted some damp marijuana with a colony of R. stolonifer found growing on bread.

DIAGNOSIS

Rotting marijuana produces a spectrum of odors, from stale to musty to moldy. P. italicum perfumes a lavender bouquet, while A. flavus smells like a locker room. Clostridium bacteria stink like carrion. Infested marijuana often darkens in color and becomes crumbly. Anaerobic bacteria turn marijuana into brown slime. Marijuana undergoing rapid decay may feel warm to touch. (At this stage your stash is ready for the compost heap.) Tufts of fungi are often visible in mold material. In marijuana stored in darkness, strands look white to light grey. Exposed to light, storage molds spawn millions of colored spores in velvet clumps. A slight tap sends these spores into great billowing clouds. Generally, Rhizopus and Mucor produce grey-black spores; Penicillium species are light blue-green; and Aspergillus species are dark green-black. To check for aflatoxins, inspect your stash under a black light (in medicalese, a "Wood's Lamp"). Material contaminated with aflatoxin-producing A. flavus will fluoresce to a green hue under ultraviolet light. To screen for insects, simply shake samples in a No. 10 steel sieve. Of course, not all bugs found in marijuana cause damage. Some are simply "innocent bystanders" caught during harvesting and die right away. Live (and chewing) insects are more suspicious. A hand lens is helpful for I.D.

CONTROL

Avoid damaging plants before they completely dry (even while they are in the ground and growing). Wounded tissues release exudates on which fungi feed and establish a foothold. Lucas says diseased and nutrient-deficient leaves (as well as old yellow leaves) produce more exudates than healthy leaves. Expect more mold problems in poorly grown plants. The secret to stopping bacteria and mildew is moisture control. Even grey mold dies if plants are carefully and quickly dried. Oven-cured pot rots less than air or sweat-cured crops. Sweat-cured Cannabis (remember '70's Colombian?) maintains a "tradition" of Aspergillus contamination. The oven-drying method inevitably leads to a harsh product. So most people air-dry by suspending plants upside down with enough space for circulation. Drying rooms should be cool and dry, preferably in uninterrupted darkness. (Most storage fungi require light to sporulate and spread.) Living cannabis plants are about 80% water. Perfectly dried marijuana contains about 10%-15% water or moisture content (MC). Material below 10% MC becomes too brittle and disintegrates. Fungi cannot grow below 15% MC. Unfortunately, many growers market their crop above 15% MC. Cannabis, like corn flakes, is sold by weight, not volume. Tobacco farmers also allow thier product to gain weight by reabsorbing moisture before sale. They term this risky business "coming into order." Recently purchased products should be redried. Freezer storage will not protect damp pot. Placing lemon or orange peels in stored marjiuana is discouraged, as they raise the MC above 15%. Dipping Penicillium-infested plants in a solution of baking powder will inhibit these acid-loving fungi but the product must be rapidly redried. Maintaining stored marijuana at 10%-15% MC also discourages insects. Insecticides have no application in stored marijuana. Their residue pose a danger to customers. Also, water-based sprays will kill bugs but trigger a fungus infection by raising the MC. Fumigants (gas, not sprays or aerosols) contain no liquid, thus they do not trigger mold infestations. But they leave residues in air pockets of fumigated material. Big buds are full of air pockets. Poisons are very useful for disinfecting drying rooms, but only after the crop has been cleared out. Low temperatures will "freeze" an insect infestation. However, with rewarming, many bugs continue their destruction. Another drawback to freezing above-15% MC marijuana involves the aforementioned exacerbation of Penicillium. Heating marijuana in a 66-93 degree Centigrade oven for 10 minutes will kill most pests. This also dries out the product--again, the cornerstone of control. Marijuana should not be heated longer than 10 minutes or 93 degrees Centigrade to prevent THC oxidation.

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