leave problems (pics)

Eagle Eyes

Active Member
so i just potted these babies 3 days ago in some .20-.22.-.20 soil
and my leave keep gettin yellower and whiter and dying has any one had this probem.....
When I began growing indoors, I took loads o clippings, rooted them out, and then plantd in a "pre-nute" soil. I found out too late that my choice of soil was doing the damage. My little ladies started great, within 3 days, the lower leaf sets yellowed, and died. They looked identical to yours.

Aftr a litte research I found ots of people with the same issue, and began to read post after post about "Mirical Grow," and other slow release, or pre-nute" soil. (ALL BAD)

I suggest dropping back on your watering, NO nutes for about 1 1/2 - 2 weeks. Better yet, Repot with clean organic soil. even Wally WOrld has some. If your going to let them grow out, without changing soil, leave the dead leaves on until they ar ready to fall off on their own.

Good luck, let us know the outcome.
 

mbudman20

Active Member
ya i know to run 2/3 times as much water thur the soil but i havent given them any nutes yet .. so what do i need do diffrent put some stone/or diffrent soil cause my 2' fem is also in this same soil ad havent given her any nutes since repot either...
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
no you ok just curious. as long as you have holes in the pot to drain thats ok.
after flushing let drain for an hour or so, mix up your veg nute at 1/4 strenght and make sure it`s ph`d at about 6.3 to 6.8, then give a normal feed. let it dry almost to the point of wilt. then water it normaly. make sure you let it dry up real good between waterings if not it unballance the ph in the soil causing problems again. they do like it on the drier side.
i`m going for a coffe so i`ll be back in a half hour for the other one
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
it dosn`t matter what ratio they use 10/20/10 is the same as .10/.20/.10 look at the actual percentage on the back of the bag if it has it. if they have nothing to hide then it will be there.
how long have they been in that soil. it will only usualy hold the nutes for about 3 weeks, then there is nothing left and you need to nute
of course they are different an npk ratio of 10-20-10 is NOT the same as .10-.20-.10 its all about that decimal point, 10-20-10 means that all nutrients in the soil is 10% n 20% p and 10% k, and .10-.20-.10 means a soil npk ratio of 0.1% n 0.2% p an 0.1% thats hardly nothing! So a soil npk ratio of .20-.22-.20 means 0.2% n 0.22% p and 0.2% k, my soil nute addatives that contain hardly any base nutrients just secondary and trace elements have npk ratios similar like 0.1-0.2-01 and 0.91-0.18-0.24 they have hardly any npk like our mans soil so its probably a lite-mix or equivalent with hardly no npk base ferts made for seedlings and cut, hence the soil is no longer able to sustain the size of the plant so the plant is hungry hence the rapid yellowing of lower leaves.
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
u'l never get any accurate ph readings from testing water run off, all u are doing is testing the ph of the water/nutes u are pouring into the top, soil buffers its own ph but this doesnt happen instantly my soil buffers at 6.5, so if i add water and nutes un ph'd, after a period of time the soil buffers that water/nute mix to 6.5 if i tested the run off when i watered itd probably be something around 5 and id be horrified! If your soil doesnt buffer ph u should use dolomite lime or such in yr soil mix to take care of it, you shouldnt be ph adjusting with soil, messing around with ph does more harm than good in yr soil by killing off the micro herd and beneficial bacteria that break down the nutes making them usable to the plant, thus creating more ph problems by excesses of unbroken down unusable nutes to the plants, remember yr feeding the soil not the plant the soil in turn feeds yr plant. Ive never ph tested or adjusted anything and only ever had deficiencies in my early days of growin when i used to use shitty synthetic mineral ferts in my soil not realising i was killing of the "friendly's" in my soil
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
When I began growing indoors, I took loads o clippings, rooted them out, and then plantd in a "pre-nute" soil. I found out too late that my choice of soil was doing the damage. My little ladies started great, within 3 days, the lower leaf sets yellowed, and died. They looked identical to yours.

Aftr a litte research I found ots of people with the same issue, and began to read post after post about "Mirical Grow," and other slow release, or pre-nute" soil. (ALL BAD)

I suggest dropping back on your watering, NO nutes for about 1 1/2 - 2 weeks. Better yet, Repot with clean organic soil. even Wally WOrld has some. If your going to let them grow out, without changing soil, leave the dead leaves on until they ar ready to fall off on their own.

Good luck, let us know the outcome.
:spew:
:spew: fuck me man if ya gona research at least get it right, firstly slow release nute soil is NOT the same as pre-fertilised, pre fertilised are generally nuted with worm casts, bat guano, sea kelp and such which is readily available to the plant and is generally used for transplanting established seedlings and rooted clones into and is designed to feed the plant throughout veg without adding nutes to yr water and sometimes into flowering depending how "hot" thel pre-fertilised soil is, then by flowering time most of the soils nute reserves will have been depleted and u can start implementing yr feeding schedule without burning yr plants, slow release nute soil on the other hand really isnt for growing mary, they normally have tiny pellets or balls of synthetic ferts normally designed for feeding outdoor plants and long term plants like houseplants growing for years! Not four months. Not designed for fast growing crops like mary, like its name suggests slow release fertiliser, u start adding any nutes into slow release soil then yr plants will be fucked. Secondly of course if u try and root clones in a "hot" pre-fert soil yr askin for trouble! U should root in rockwool jiffy plugs root riot cubes etc then transplant into a light pre-fert soil in a small pot, root out that pot then pot up into yr final pot size with the hot mix for the rest of veg and u wont need to feed at all just water for the whole of veg possibly beyond. if u have to transplant seedlings and freshly rooted cuts into hot soil then u should dilute the mix 50/50 soil and perlite or vermiculite to prevent burning young plants. Thirdly dont use anything miracle grow, its great for the hobby gardener shit for growing our precious plants, and dont confuse slow release nute miracle grow mickey mouse not worth the plastic its wrapped in shit with good quality organically prefertilised soil...
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
no that will be perfect for germinated seeds and rooted cuts in a smallish pot say 4"square, a combination of having such low soil npk ratio and using the wet-dry watering schedule will make yr plants root out the pot much faster as the roots grow out in search of water and nutes, when u got plenty of roots showing at the holes in the pot then transplant into yr final pot size with a good organically pre-fertilised soil, i use canna terra proffesional soil with an npk ratio of 12-14-24, conductivity(the concentration of that npk in the soil) of 1.1-1.3ms and ph buffered @ 6-6.5. All this info should b on the bag. I like to use a final pot size of 10l or 2.5gal, big enough for a decent root ball but not so big that i cant get a decent amount of plants in my floorspace, doing it this way u will not need to feed throuhout veg at all just straight water, eau de tap! If u flush now u will only further wash out what little ferts there is in the soil, why on earth would anybody flush if they havnt even fed anything yet?? And y would u flush if over-watering is suspected only to add to the problem?? Too many people too quick say flush. Just pot up in a larger pot with a soil like i described above and use the wet-dry cycle and yr yellowing will stop and ul b fine until onset of flowering and probably beyond, and i wouldnt recommend letting yr plants wilt off regularly between waterings, yes yr plants can survive this easy but in times of drought when the plants wilt the stomata, the tiny pores in the leaves close up to stop transpiration of water and waste gases in an effort to prevent moisture loss, photosynthesis comes to a halt, and toxins build up in the plant causing stress, not good, especially during bloom. Also when the soil gets too dry irrepairable damage is done to the fine roots and root hairs, just stick yr finger in the soil if u can feel any moisture 2inches down it dont need water, if it feels dry 2inches down give it another day then water, but ffs always before it wilts!
 

Eagle Eyes

Active Member
:spew:
:spew: fuck me man if ya gona research at least get it right, .....blah/blah/blah....
Hey Londoner, why not leave your terrific attitude acoss the pond. Meta-cognative arguments aside, I never once used the term "fertilizer" and used the common N. American phraseing of Mirical Grow," and other slow release, or pre-nute"

Have a lovely day.

Signed the Cheeky Monkey.
 

mbudman20

Active Member
no that will be perfect for germinated seeds and rooted cuts in a smallish pot say 4"square, a combination of having such low soil npk ratio and using the wet-dry watering schedule will make yr plants root out the pot much faster as the roots grow out in search of water and nutes, when u got plenty of roots showing at the holes in the pot then transplant into yr final pot size with a good organically pre-fertilised soil, i use canna terra proffesional soil with an npk ratio of 12-14-24, conductivity(the concentration of that npk in the soil) of 1.1-1.3ms and ph buffered @ 6-6.5. All this info should b on the bag. I like to use a final pot size of 10l or 2.5gal, big enough for a decent root ball but not so big that i cant get a decent amount of plants in my floorspace, doing it this way u will not need to feed throuhout veg at all just straight water, eau de tap! If u flush now u will only further wash out what little ferts there is in the soil, why on earth would anybody flush if they havnt even fed anything yet?? And y would u flush if over-watering is suspected only to add to the problem?? Too many people too quick say flush. Just pot up in a larger pot with a soil like i described above and use the wet-dry cycle and yr yellowing will stop and ul b fine until onset of flowering and probably beyond, and i wouldnt recommend letting yr plants wilt off regularly between waterings, yes yr plants can survive this easy but in times of drought when the plants wilt the stomata, the tiny pores in the leaves close up to stop transpiration of water and waste gases in an effort to prevent moisture loss, photosynthesis comes to a halt, and toxins build up in the plant causing stress, not good, especially during bloom. Also when the soil gets too dry irrepairable damage is done to the fine roots and root hairs, just stick yr finger in the soil if u can feel any moisture 2inches down it dont need water, if it feels dry 2inches down give it another day then water, but ffs always before it wilts!
ok so any organtic soil with a good npk should work
i cant order any soil offline so i have to buy whats at the stores around...

or what would happen if i just start feeding them a 1/4 veg nutes once everyother week

ok so i was readin my bag of soil and it says 100% organic ingerdeince with fert.??? so the .20-.22.-20 is just a low npk huh or should i still get new soil..???
 
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mbudman20

Active Member
bonz so the npk .20-.22.-.20 is low...
so should i just start feeding 1/4 nutes next watering.?????

im confused casue i got people with diffrent answers...lol
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
yes give them 1/4 nute mix. after the flush they will look shity but will come around.
good luck, i couldn`t get back in here last night to answer you sorry
 

Londoner

Well-Known Member
yes yr plant is hungry, what is the npk ratio of yr feed? Bonz mate i stil dont understand yr thinking? The plant isnt that old, mbudman hasnt fed anything yet, the only reasons for flushing are when u have overfed yr plants to flush out the excess unused nutrients(often caused by fuckin around with water ph) buildup in the soil, or when u are approaching harvest and want to leach the soil and plant of nutes, altho completely unnecesary. and i stil dont get why u ph adjust yr water? Unless yr soil and nute manufacturers specify that u have to?
 

bonz

Well-Known Member
my bad, i keep forgeting they have only been in soil a few days. i was always told that if your water`s ph is off it will throw the soil`sph off and screw plants. i dont ph my plain water, mine is good, but i ph after i add the nutes to the water because it lowers it to much. thought thats how it`s done?
 
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