Leaves getting gross

1)
2) Growing indoor
3) Handwater every 2-3 days depending on soil. Recently flushed.
4) Growing Medium - Soil
5) What stage of growth - Week 3 flower
This has been happening slowly since flower. The leaves it claims are random. Food is like a 3-14-14, fox farm, some kelp, with calmag being introduced week 1 of flower. (because I just bought it) N is 3 because of the kelp and calmag. ): Strain is Bubblicious.

I'm bumping this, because after a flush and turning down my lights, it's still getting worse!

TOO MUCH P! K is high for full on use too! N is too low for that High P..

There's not much you can do now...raise the N to slow down the progression is about it - WELL, lower the P and K of course...

At the time of the flip - don't change to "bloom" nutes......At week 3 - mix them 50/50 veg and bloom......At week 4 - full on bloom.

3-14-14 is not a good bloom ratio for cannabis - period......

So this is nute burn? Because all other mostly sativa plants are growing really well. As a guide I was using Maxibloom's 5-15-14 since most people say to KISS.

Dr. Who said:

TOO MUCH P! K is high for full on use too! N is too low for that High P..

There's not much you can do now...raise the N to slow down the progression is about it - WELL, lower the P and K of course...

At the time of the flip - don't change to "bloom" nutes......At week 3 - mix them 50/50 veg and bloom......At week 4 - full on bloom.

3-14-14 is not a good bloom ratio for cannabis - period......

Click to expand...

in your experience;

say I overfed nute burned (I know, many different levels of that) during flower. and I have in the past. there seems to be a window of forgiveness where a plant can recover without loss of expression. my guess is 5 weeks is past forgiveness but these pics show me maybe different, I think he might be able to recover if addressed .

chemphlegm said:

in your experience;

say I overfed nute burned (I know, many different levels of that) during flower. and I have in the past. there seems to be a window of forgiveness where a plant can recover without loss of expression. my guess is 5 weeks is past forgiveness but these pics show me maybe different, I think he might be able to recover if addressed .

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"Recover" Not in the sense I understand the word. Continue and finish well is better....

They can be saved as far as stopping/slowing the yellowing.....Ability to actually reach "potential" is harmed.
Yellowing by P tox is forever....The only leaf "damage" that "repairs" are N problems - high/low...
This is a reduction in the plants ability to photosynthesise......Yellowing leaves do not do it...well, untill they are full yellow when it stops completely.

They (plants) will finish. They will be good too. Not as good as if they didn't....

Dr. Who said:

They can be saved as far as stopping/slowing the yellowing......Yellowing leaves do not do it...

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From the picture... there is no yellowing. Only brown spots that spread until it starts killing the leaf.

HideousPenguinBoy said:

So this is nute burn? Because all other mostly sativa plants are growing really well. As a guide I was using Maxibloom's 5-15-14 since most people say to KISS.

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In a way. Not exactly what I would call "burn".

Just too much P....

Maxi works. Better to say it can be made to work......The formulation and NPK ratio's are off for cannabis growing...Some folks love this stuff......

If you want to KISS? Try Jack's classic "citrus" - 1/4 tsp per gallon - all the way till harvest.
Boost? 1/4 tsp Potassium Sulfate....that's it.......be sure your soil is properly limed.


WOW! I actually opened up the thumbnail.. (I answered by "what you were using and by the NPK values")

You got a pH problem in those pots! That's causing lockouts and defs.

Ca, Mg, P, minerals.......

What is the soil? FF, MG, Black Gold - etc, etc? This is important!

What is the water source?

Dr. Who said:

WOW! I actually opened up the thumbnail.. (I answered by "what you were using and by the NPK values")
You got a pH problem in those pots! That's causing lockouts and defs.
Ca, Mg, P, minerals.......
What is the soil? FF, MG, Black Gold - etc, etc? This is important!
What is the water source?

Click to expand...

FF Ocean Forest. Very low PPM tap water with Saechum for chloramine removal. Water going in has always been 6.5-6.6. The 4 other plants get the same deal and all look normal.

Dr. Who said:

"Recover" Not in the sense I understand the word. Continue and finish well is better....

They can be saved as far as stopping/slowing the yellowing.....Ability to actually reach "potential" is harmed.
Yellowing by P tox is forever....The only leaf "damage" that "repairs" are N problems - high/low...
This is a reduction in the plants ability to photosynthesise......Yellowing leaves do not do it...well, untill they are full yellow when it stops completely.

They (plants) will finish. They will be good too. Not as good as if they didn't....

Click to expand...

Agreed ....recover is not the word I'd use either ....stabilizing is .....good point Dr.

HideousPenguinBoy said:

FF Ocean Forest. Very low PPM tap water with Saechum for chloramine removal. Water going in has always been 6.5-6.6. The 4 other plants get the same deal and all look normal.

Click to expand...

You do realize your ffof soil buffers itself?

No need to be adjusting ph in that soil....as well as a lot of other good soil mixes for that matter .....just a heads up so you don't worry about unnecessary things in soil .....I'd focus on doctor who's advice above and try to stabilize your girls ....GL

HideousPenguinBoy said:

FF Ocean Forest. Very low PPM tap water with Saechum for chloramine removal. Water going in has always been 6.5-6.6. The 4 other plants get the same deal and all look normal.

Click to expand...

There is something going on with that plant in that soil..
I see what you mean about others being ok...

You say you flushed it correct? Don't do it again!
Plain water with Ca/Mg - Check the meter for calibration and pH to the points you have been....water with that for 5 days and restart the nutrient at half strength and increase to full as needed over the next 2 weeks....
The progression of the problem should stop/slow....If it doesn't......The soil got contaminated somehow.....bad mix for that plant somehow.....something happened to that one pot......

Indacouch said:

You do realize your ffof soil buffers itself?

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Yup! I'm just in the school of, "Don't wait until your car doesn't work before you start maintenance." My water tends to be within .3 of the correct pH once I add nutes anyway. Sadly, Dr Who is saying is pH issues, so...

Dr. Who said:

There is something going on with that plant in that soil..
I see what you mean about others being ok...

You say you flushed it correct? Don't do it again!
Plain water with Ca/Mg - Check the meter for calibration and pH to the points you have been....water with that for 5 days and restart the nutrient at half strength and increase to full as needed over the next 2 weeks....
The progression of the problem should stop/slow....If it doesn't......The soil got contaminated somehow.....bad mix for that plant somehow.....something happened to that one pot......

Click to expand...

I did just that for fear I was nute fucking it for the one feeding after the flush. Big problem is that she isn't drinking hardly anything, and even in an airpot it's been a long while since she was dry. ): Should I just force feed her calmagged water anyway? (She isn't sitting in water or anything. Airpot is propped up off the bottom and is getting ventilation. Humidity is around 40-45% ) Should I continue with a kelp foliar spray to help calm the shock she is clearly in?

Dr. Who said:

In a way. Not exactly what I would call "burn".
Just too much P....
Maxi works. Better to say it can be made to work......The formulation and NPK ratio's are off for cannabis growing...Some folks love this stuff......

Click to expand...

What type of final ratio do you prefer for Bloom/EarlyFlower/Flower?

The "flush" probably helped the pH dive but be aware, FFOF soil is notorious for low pH issues. Some say it can be random, as in a quality control issue.
The lack of water uptake is also indicative of some type of root damage/low pH.

If it were me, I'd let the soil dry out (this will also help the pH climb) and continue with 1/4-1/2 strength feed. Next time, I'd skip the FFOF and grab bale of Promix, Sunshine or the like. It will work much better with typed of nutes (salts) you're using. If you have to use the FFOF add some dolomite lime.

Good luck. Hopefully you can bring it to the finish line somewhat "stabilized" as indacouch and Dr. Who have suggested.

HideousPenguinBoy said:

What type of final ratio do you prefer for Bloom/EarlyFlower/Flower?

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I run organic water only soils, I build...

If I were to run synthetics again (in fact I'm just starting some for testing of the nutrients and a personal mix from a friend)

I would give the Botanicare KIND line a shot.. If you can look at plants and know what they want/need by what they're "telling" you. That KIND line is built for you....3 part that you use at your needed amounts to self adjust the NPK ratio's as needed for the strain...

I always liked Hesi nutrients...Got partial to them......I finally ended up with using Hesi Bloom (3.4-2.6-3.4), and had on hand Extreme Nutrients "Boost" (2-0-5) AN's Big Bud (0-1-3), a PK booster (0-6-5) and Atami's Blossom Builder (0-9-19)

I mixed as I saw what the plant needed to reach what I wanted the plant to do......I mean I can't be specific about what and when other to say that vegging plants got the bloom complex, when the soil's nutrition was starting to deplete.....It got some Boost" added to the Hesi during the stretch and the big bud as I saw fit at week 3 and beyond. The Blossom builder, right before the start of the bulking phase...

Sometimes K sulfate instead of the Builder, with a bit of the PK..There was always my home made Mg sulfate stuff around and used..It was all so visual to what the plant was doing and at what time...
In the end, the need to go back to organic and "water and walk away" became my KISS focus again.....

Still, Jack's classic powdered is very popular with old school and some new school growers for it's single step and done KISS.
I would still add the K sulfate during mid to late bloom though.

Mmm, Dyna Gro Foliage pro is another popular single step nutrient.....

Ratio's 3-1-2
2-1-2
3-2-2.5
3-1-3

actual value's as delivered at those times - depends on what the plant needs... Geese,,,, kinda hard to say....I change the ratio's or values 3 - 4 times in bloom ....dbl the N over P and another half to whole point or more again of K.....I have to go back to the point that i give it what I see it need to reach as close to plant "potential".....The lowering of N use in early bloom is wrong...At least in the scope of how damn much they increase the P&K - I'm mostly concerned about the P...

Help?

just a thought, he said its not drinking much....maybe a little root rot? i'd try adding 13 ml of hydrogen peroxide per gallon to my water for a few waterings, see if it makes any difference

Tangerine_ said:

The "flush" probably helped the pH dive but be aware, FFOF soil is notorious for low pH issues. Some say it can be random, as in a quality control issue.
The lack of water uptake is also indicative of some type of root damage/low pH.

If it were me, I'd let the soil dry out (this will also help the pH climb) and continue with 1/4-1/2 strength feed. Next time, I'd skip the FFOF and grab bale of Promix, Sunshine or the like. It will work much better with typed of nutes (salts) you're using. If you have to use the FFOF add some dolomite lime.

Good luck. Hopefully you can bring it to the finish line somewhat "stabilized" as indacouch and Dr. Who have suggested.

Click to expand...

"ROOT DAMAGE" Wonder if the soil has gotten anaerobic from being too wet,,,,,Not getting O2 to the roots.

Oh yeah, got that right

Roger A. Shrubber said:

just a thought, he said its not drinking much....maybe a little root rot? i'd try adding 13 ml of hydrogen peroxide per gallon to my water for a few waterings, see if it makes any difference

Click to expand...

Might as well try.....I wouldn't worry about any bio's in the soil here.