LEC doing well
- Thread starter TedeBoy
- Start date
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
From a listing on Amazon it says they put out 105 lm/w. That's about the same as COBs running at maximum current. Looks slightly cheaper but that's the only selling point I can see. You still have something that gets hot as an arc welder and requires a lot of reflection because it's basically a point source. It may also put out RF interference like other HIDs, which apparently ticks off cable TV companies and they come to your house. Who wants that? LEDs are RF and electric arc free.
TedeBoy
Well-Known Member
Neither of those an issue with me. Heat is between HID and LED.
Also I'm pulling about 400 to 430W from the wall depending on where I set the fan speed. This is the entire usage by the tent.
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GroErr
Well-Known Member
I use COBs and plan to use more but I also use these LEC's, they have nothing in common with hps/hid other than they use a bulb. Highly recommend doing some reading/research before you trash something you know nothing about, tends to make you look more intelligent.
TedeBoy
Well-Known Member
I'm finding no downside to this light yet. Loving it.
It pulls about 355W from the wall but as I have read, it equals our betters a 600W HID. It's perfect for my 3x3.
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
So an LEC doesn't have an arc or put out RF interference? I find that difficult to believe. I suspect that you have Light Emitting Cell confused with Light Emitting Ceramic, which is in fact an HID lamp. It just has a ceramic arc tube instead of glass like a normal MH and the ballast is slightly different, non-digital so it's a big electromagnet.
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BobCajun
Well-Known Member
How can there be no RF interference when it's an HID? People seem to think LEC is not HID. It appears to be an improvement over other HIDs but it certainly doesn't have the advantages of LEDs. I'm sure they work perfectly well. If you want an HID system it would be the best one.
I really like Sun Systems LEC. My local hydro store has one. I'm surprised at how cool it feels. It runs about 35w/sq ft, right? That's awesome. Not sure what there is to complain about.
There are some less expensive options which were discussed in this thread. The info is spread through that thread. But the highlights were:
Phillips Agro Elite bulb (same as used in Sun System LEC, requires digital ballast): using digital ballast from AdvancedTechLighting
Phillips MasterColor "Retro" bulb: Can be driven with a typical magnetic HPS ballast.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/finding-a-second-light-for-my-flowering-room.891867/#post-12124240
https://www.rollitup.org/t/finding-a-second-light-for-my-flowering-room.891867/#post-12124539
https://www.rollitup.org/t/finding-a-second-light-for-my-flowering-room.891867/#post-12124539
Phillips All-Start bulb: Can be driven with a typical magnetic MH ballast.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/finding-a-second-light-for-my-flowering-room.891867/#post-12124320
Links to another thread where hyroot gave some links:
Links to another thread where hyroot gave some links:
One thing I remain unclear about is whether the horizontal bulbs (Retro and All-Start) produce as much radiant heat as the Agro Elite which operates vertically. I.e., I wonder if the Sun System LEC runs cooler because the radiant heat is reduced (due to operating vertically)?
dbkick
Well-Known Member
That ballast is special and probably doesn't put out the rfi you're talking about since it is low frequency square wave.
GroErr
Well-Known Member
They are nice, the Sun Systems is a nice package as the reflector is really high end. There are a lot of options now, growershouse.com has about 4-5 kits with reflector/ballast/bulb at different price ranges. And there's the DIY option buying the ballast/bulb kit for $200 through advancedtechlighting.com which includes just the ballast and bulb. Nice buy-in price if running bare-bulb, or it can be used in a bat-wing or parabolic reflector. They do say it runs slightly more efficient vertically but they can run horizontally. Key with this Elite Agro 315w (there's a 210w as well) is that it is different for firing and getting the level of efficiency out of it, it requires a special ballast to run it - that's also part of the reduction in heat output. When I bought my Sun Systems LEC's about 1 1/2 years ago the Sun Systems were about the only game in town for a kit with hood.
Both the Mastercolour "Retro" and All-start line are Philips and CMH, but not as efficient nor the same spectrum. imo, if you're looking to try or switch, I'd be looking at the Elite Agro efficiency and spectrum. I've run it as low as 26w/sq. ft and pulled 13 zips, it can do better. Typically they recommend 9 sq. ft which would be the 35w/sq. ft. you mention but at 22-24" you can cover a 3.5 x 3.5 which nets out at 26w/sq. ft. and imo can achieve 1.4 gpw+ with the right strain and grow method.
GroErr
Well-Known Member
I run a security consulting business, at home I have a test lab and have the equivalent of some electronic stores worth of equipment and technologies like servers, routers/firewalls, 2x WiFi, RF temp/humidity sensors, a bunch of stereo equipment, a couple of guitar amps/recording studio etc. I've never had or even hinted at interference running 2 of these Sun Systems for about 1 1/2 years now.
I wish SunSystem had remote ballasts. I'm in a hot climate and that was the only thing which prevented me from buying one two years ago. The ballast seemed to be the warmest part of the system. I didn't like the idea of keeping it in the tent. (I haven't used HID. I assume it's customary to keep the ballast outside.).
I considered moving my T5HO ballasts out of their fixtures, but I wasn't sure how that might work (or not). I read somewhere those wires can be high voltage and aren't supposed to be long. Maybe the CMH ballast is like that too (and that's why they don't make it separate from the fixture).
I think the AdvancedTechLighting system would allow the ballast to be outside the tent(?). And, growershouse has a retrofit kit which appears its ballast could be some distance away.
GroErr
Well-Known Member
Yeah in the Sun Systems they package it all in the hood. But they can be run remote if you prefer, distance would be set by the ballast/brand.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
IMO the sun system let's you get the most out of a square setup. I personally prefer the spread and intensity of the sun system over my unlensed vero setup and heat has been comparable. I have found that I also really enjoy being able to properly light my tent with a single light source as opposed to multiple panels or COBs.
I can't imagine a better veg lamp for my little 2x3 than a vero29 cranked up tho fwiw.
I can't imagine a better veg lamp for my little 2x3 than a vero29 cranked up tho fwiw.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
Ya that was actually one of the things that originally turned me off as well but people aren't lying when they say they run warm to the touch.
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Apparently that lamp has the ballast right in the fixture, so that would keep RF to a minimum. It gets worse the longer the wire from ballast to bulb. It's only when the lamps turn on btw. It's the high voltage of the starter that causes it. Anyway, seems like the best of the HIDs and has lm/w similar to stock LED lamps. It may actually be a better choice than LED, I don't know yet. I'd have to see side by side watt for watt comparisons. My issue with LED is bleaching.
GroErr
Well-Known Member
Not sure if it has anything to do with it but these use pulse start, the draw slowly goes up as they fire and takes a few minutes to get to full power. When I first metered it pretty well right after firing I noticed it wasn't drawing what it should have been. Metered it again later and waited 3 minutes and it stabilized at that point at full power. Shielding inside the hood could play a part also. Haven't had any bleaching with LED's and ran some pretty close to the COBs in a run where I hadn't left enough head room for the stretch. Have seen bleaching of the leaves (not buds) with these LEC's when I first started running it, anything under 20" I'd see the top layer of leaves getting bleached. I'd love to try a side by side in the new year, my problem is to do a proper side by side I'd have to break my perpetual cycle and I'm too tight on veg space. I may be able to run clones about 3-4 weeks apart, going to put some thought into it and see if I can swing something that would be a fair comparison. Thinking about 300w of 3590's @1400ma would give these a run for their money, perhaps Santa will leave some under the tree this year
