LED Companies w/ LINKS

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
I'll grab up a Philips, price is no big deal. I plan to buy 1 light from each LED manufacturer and seller/reseller eventually, I imagine the Philips would be cheaper.

Any other lights that people want to see under the 'scope, hit me up.
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
White + red. 2:1 ratio diode-wise. 4:1 wattage-wise.

Let's just say I end up with 550mA for XPE and 750mA for XPG (I think this'll be it)

48pcs XPG x 3.1v x 750mA = 111w
24pcs XPE x 2.15v x 550mA = 28.4w

Apx. 25% red boost on top of the whites.
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
620-630nm. Plants love it.

All plants respond to that range.

But not all plants respond (positively) to (too many) deep reds.

Pry away, that's what I'm here for.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
White + red. 2:1 ratio diode-wise. 4:1 wattage-wise.

Let's just say I end up with 550mA for XPE and 750mA for XPG (I think this'll be it)

48pcs XPG x 3.1v x 750mA = 111w
24pcs XPE x 2.15v x 550mA = 28.4w

Apx. 25% red boost on top of the whites.
Seems ,my brother we're surfing on the same wave ...
And it's a great swell ...
Growing bigger ...

Have you checked my new light ?
(Completely build from scratch ... Almost everything ..
Based on Guod's Designs and of course with his precious guidance ...
Take it from here ,if you wish ...

I go for the same 2: 1 WW : reds (645-660 nm ) ..
But I'm going Oslons SSLs ...
Our EU leds ..

Anyway ....

Keep up the great work there ..
Your info has been pure gold to me ! ...
( I go for less total output flux ,so I keep the reds high and blue wls ,lower than 5% ...
If I'll increase flux in future ,I have to increase -mainly- blue and green wls ...
So ..Two "initial " red-rich panels for low flux grows ....
And next panels (if any ) ,as total flux will increase, will contain more blue/green light than the two "initial " ones ...
Something like that ...)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
620-630nm. Plants love it.

All plants respond to that range.

But not all plants respond (positively) to (too many) deep reds.

Pry away, that's what I'm here for.

That's so true !

Anyway ..Those Oslons WW have a broad peak of 1. Rel Power (100% ) from 620- to 640 nm ...
So ,I supplement ,with the ( really broad for monochromatic led ) 645 (dominant ) -660 (peak ) ,Oslon reds..
(covering peaks of both Chs (~642 & 662-6 nm )....)

No blue leds ,no CW ,no NW ....
Maybe, on later add-ons panels ...


 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
I've been trying to keep up with what you're doing on your ideas as much as I can. Good stuff indeed SDS, nothing negative to say at all.

In fact, I would like to use a couple of your panels in my personal grow, those smaller areas are hard to be efficient with what I have made.

If you want to check out one of my lights, let me know, it's on the house. (that means free of cost to you if that does not translate well into Greek)

Osram makes good LEDs, I really like the simplicity in their soldering compared to Cree.

Seems ,my brother we're surfing in the same wave ...
And it's a great swell ...
Growing bigger ...

Have you checked my new light ?
(Completely build from scratch ... Almost everything ..
Based on Guod's Designs and of course with his precious guidance ...
Take it from here ,if you wish ...

I go for the same 2: 1 WW : reds (645-660 nm ) ..
But I'm going Oslons SSLs ...
Our EU leds ..

Anyway ....

Keep up the great work there ..
Your info has been pure gold to me ! ...
( I go for less total output flux ,so I keep the reds high and blue wls ,lower than 5% ...
If I'll increase flux in future ,I have to increaser blue and green wls ...
So ..Two "initial " red-rich panels fro low flux grows ....
And next panels (if any ) ,as total flux will increase, will contain more blue/green light than the two "initial " ones ...
Something like that ...)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
OMG !!!
I'm speechless....
Dunno what to say ,really ...

Yes ..
I had in mind small spaces and really .."economic " - "crisis -proof grows " ,
when I firstplace got the idea of building them ...

OmG !
The new Area 51 panel ,for free ?
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
Hey, good things happen to good people. You deserve a free light at the minimum. (yes, the newest model)

If people haven't noticed, I'm not about making money on LEDs, I'm about making LEDs work for people for the cheapest cost possible.

I just like all things growing, providing it doesn't use too much electricity. ;)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
One thing :

Brother ...
You've just made the planet a better place ..
For me ,at least ...
With only reading how you feel and what you wish ....

People are great !
We humans are able of the greatest miracles ....
Or for every-day miracles (of same greatness...)
But ,brother Eraserhead ,I'm guessing you already ...feel and live by that way ...

You ,my friend ..Are a great guy ....
/you're good ...You're really good ....

[video=youtube;ravi4YtUTxo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ravi4YtUTxo[/video]
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
Gotta love De Niro.

Who doesn't like Robert?

One thing :

Brother ...
You've just made the planet a better place ..
For me ,at least ...
With only reading how you feel and what you wish ....

People are great !
We humans are able of the greatest miracles ....
Or for every-day miracles (of same greatness...)
But ,brother Eraserhead ,I'm guessing you already ...feel and live by that way ...

You ,my friend ..Are a great guy ....
/you're good ...You're really good ....

[video=youtube;ravi4YtUTxo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ravi4YtUTxo[/video]
Any other LED companies lurking, especially of a dark haired canine variety, take notes. Take notes my long toothed friend.

Before you're left behind in the monochromatic world that is known today as inferior, unless your name in Hans.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
EraserHead,Brother ,how do you plan to deal with cooling / heat management ,regarding the new models ?
Fans ? ( More than one, I'm guessing for the monster of ~ 150 Watts ... )

P.S. /Edit : for those who might wonder " 150 Watts " ? "monster " ?
Yes actually ,when a led grow light is trully efficient ....
(And no BS,at all ,in the "middle " .... )
Then 150 Watts is pretty much a good amount of power ...
(respectable yield-wise=>150-350 grs( 5~11 oz ) final yield from just "mere" 150 Watts ...)

 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
146cfm of semi-silent fans, and a thick(er) heat sink (not as thick as I would use with no fans, but my fans so far after a couple years of using the same fans, they are still at a 0% failure rate.) Plus I give them out for free whenever they will (eventually) fail. (they are rated for 100'000 hours, so....)

EraserHead,Brother ,how do you plan to deal with cooling / heat management ,regarding the new models ?
Fans ? ( More than one, I'm guessing for the monster of ~ 150 Watts ... )
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
On a side note, SDS, what is the thickness of your sinks?

I get all my stuff made in Germany and China, shipping is crazy for heavy stuff...
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Listen now ....
Hellas (Aka Greece ,although wrong ! ) is a massive producer of Aluminium ..
( As first material ...) ..
So Aluminium is pretty cheap here ..(Specially the more "pure " / softer alloys ,because of their limited demand ... )

The heatsink we use is made here ..(Do not know where exactly ... )
Cost : ~12 € !!!! (For 2 kilos of Ally ...Heatsink shape extruded -non anodised (+10 € for black anodising )
But it is made of soft 1050 ally and has a base thickness of 10 mm ...
16 fins (30 mm "height " ) and with thickness starting at 5 mm! ending at ~2mm at fin edges ...
Pretty heavy chunk of ally ...
Soft ,easy to work with ,does a great job cooling ....
But ...
If you Ask me ,what I would have preferred instead ...
Same size exactly (everything same ! ) SK 85 of Fischer Elektroniks ..
(the one Guod uses in his new panels ...)
Best heatsink outhere ....

And of course there are the new "ceramics " ..
Light and really efficient ..
( made of Boron Nitride -Beryllia..
Beryllium Oxide (BeO), commonly referred to as beryllia, possesses a unique combination of thermal, dielectric, and mechanical properties which are highly desirable in electronic applications. No other material exhibits these characteristics. BeO ceramic conducts heat better than most metals, exhibits extremely low dielectric loss characteristics, possesses high electrical resistivity, and offers excellent strength properties. It provides all the desirable physical and dielectric characteristics exhibited by aluminum oxide and, in addition, offers higher thermal conductivity and lower dielectric constant.

Beryllium oxide is a unique material for electrical and mechanical applications which require high thermal conductivity along with dielectric and mechanical strength. It is particularly well suited for use as a semiconductor heat sink and as a heat dissipation medium in miniaturized circuitry.
Heat sinks and other semiconductor parts are manufactured in a range of sizes readily adaptable to the basic requirements of the industry. Sizes, configurations, hole sizes and placements conform to conventional TO case sizes, and are maintained within close tolerances to facilitate assembly.
Available in any quantity, mostly from stock, beryllium oxide heat sinks more than justify higher costs than other materials by demonstrating higher temperature capability, realistic power vs. frequency relationships and greater cost effectiveness resulting from improved reliability.
American Beryllia manufactures a wide variety of custom BeO ceramic parts for various applications. Materials are prepared by dry pressing, isostatic pressing, hot pressing, tape casting, and extrusion machining. American Beryllia’s capabilities also include machining metalizing and plating among others.

Check out "American Beryllia -dot- com " for more info ... )

BTW ...
Great choice of fans ...
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
SDS, do you have Skype, or any other live chat function? I'd love to share a brain storm with you.

These are my 2012 heat sinks, pics taken just now.





2013 is 50% more.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
No I'm afraid I do not have such "communicating "programs ...
I'll think a way ...
(My laptop due to it's X-25 SSD has limited available space ...
And I've no more room for any kind of apply I use rarely or never (like Skype ,hotmail,ect )
CS4 ,Figi ,OpenCaD ,sKETCHuP and plenty more .."scientific-oriented " software ,does not allow for skype in the 80 GB hard disc ...
(80 GB ,but faster than a bullet .... )


It seems great piece of hetsink ....
Many fins with low profile ....

Fin efficiency

Fin efficiency is one of the parameters which makes a higher thermal conductivity material important. A fin of a heat sink may be considered to be a flat plate with heat flowing in one end and being dissipated into the surrounding fluid as it travels to the other.[SUP][9][/SUP] As heat flows through the fin, the combination of the thermal resistance of the heat sink impeding the flow and the heat lost due to convection, the temperature of the fin and, therefore, the heat transfer to the fluid, will decrease from the base to the end of the fin. Fin efficiency is defined as the actual heat transferred by the fin, divided by the heat transfer were the fin to be isothermal (hypothetically the fin having infinite thermal conductivity). Equations 6 and 7 are applicable for straight fins.
[SUP][10][/SUP] (6)
[SUP][10][/SUP] (7) Where:

  • h[SUB]f[/SUB] is the convection coefficient of the fin
    • Air: 10 to 100 W/(m[SUP]2[/SUP]K)
    • Water: 500 to 10,000 W/(m[SUP]2[/SUP]K)
  • k is the thermal conductivity of the fin material
    • Aluminium: 120 to 240 W/(m·K)
  • L[SUB]f[/SUB] is the fin height (m)
  • t[SUB]f[/SUB] is the fin thickness (m)
Fin efficiency is increased by decreasing the fin aspect ratio (making them thicker or shorter), or by using more conductive material (copper instead of aluminium, for example).


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_sink

....Can you show a side pic ,showing fin thickness ? (and width ? )
Write down(post ) some measurements (in metric if easy ..)


Again ,I'm no expert ...
You should take that with Guod ,also ...
Brother knows , almost everything regarding cooling (amongst many others ) ...
 

Eraserhead

Well-Known Member
I'll try. My camera isn't the best, I just ordered a new one the same time I ordered my spectroradiometer(s), (I had ordered 2 different models, I want to see if there's a difference)

$12'424 later.....

....Can you show a side pic ,showing fin thickness ? (and width ? )
Write down some measurements (in metric if easy ..)
Brb with your pics.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
The basics (my poor knowledge for heatsinks ...)

-Heatsink base has to be thick ..To spread evenly the heat into fins ...
If thin heat "penetrates" locally ..(hot spots ) in certain parts of fin system..
Not efficient ...

-Heatsink fins have to be a ) "short " and "thick" ...
Short to allow free continuous air movement and exchange (thus cooling by free air ...shit ..forgot it ..induction smthing ... )
Thick to conduct and "capacitate "(store ) heat from base continuously ....
If thin they 'll heat up really quicK and remain hot ,thus rest of heatsink will become hotter ... )

As for area (except mass/volume properties ) fins have to be long ...

And as many as possible,without close neighbouring each other ..(space between them .. )

-Softer alum alloys are the best ..Aim for a 1xxx family alloy ....
(Although most common in heatsinks are of 6xxx family ..)

And not heat treated at all ..T0
 
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