LED Companies w/ LINKS

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
Would you say it's really equal to a 400hps as they claim?

If so I might look into getting a vero (whatever watt it is) to replace a 600.

How hot would you say the one you have gets? Im sure the 600watt hps equivalent will run hotter but ill have a good idea.

If you ran it in a tent would you say it's a must to pump in a/c air or even outside air? Or do you think you'd get by just circulating air/using inline fans just too keep the hot air moving away from the light?
I use 200watt vero to replace like 250watt hps=. The thing I really like about LED is the temp control. I use a carbonfilter with 6inch max fan for exhaust and 6inch hydrofarm booster for intake. I have heater for the winter . temps stay around 85 with 940watts LEDs and 2 fans now! The flower area for optic200watt is 18in x 24inches at 12 inches from canopy!
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
The flower area for optic200watt is 18in x 24inches at 12 inches from canopy!
Have you run this set up full cycle -- all the way through harvest -- yet? The COBs are still new enough that it seems like people are looking for their limits and testing to see how much would be too much.

I've been looking at the Optics and the space I'd be putting it in is 28" x 22" x 60", and I was considering the 120w Vero because they state the footprint as 36" x 24" (@16 inches, so even at less it should be enough light spread). Do you think the 120w would be sufficient for one plant in that space? If it can't handle that space, its hard to imagine what it was actually designed for.

It seems like the common line is that more is better and put as much light into the space as you possibly can, but I wonder at what point are there diminishing returns -- or possibly drawbacks. With HPS its obvious, too much (or too close) and you'll cook your plants. I've read about some LEDs bleaching the leaves when they get too close, but now I'm reading about people putting COBs very close -- like 12" -- from the leaves. I'm not sure what the physics of that are, they provide more light but its light that doesn't burn...?

Obviously I'm at the beginning of the learning curve, so I appreciate any help.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Have you run this set up full cycle -- all the way through harvest -- yet? The COBs are still new enough that it seems like people are looking for their limits and testing to see how much would be too much.

I've been looking at the Optics and the space I'd be putting it in is 28" x 22" x 60", and I was considering the 120w Vero because they state the footprint as 36" x 24" (@16 inches, so even at less it should be enough light spread). Do you think the 120w would be sufficient for one plant in that space? If it can't handle that space, its hard to imagine what it was actually designed for.

It seems like the common line is that more is better and put as much light into the space as you possibly can, but I wonder at what point are there diminishing returns -- or possibly drawbacks. With HPS its obvious, too much (or too close) and you'll cook your plants. I've read about some LEDs bleaching the leaves when they get too close, but now I'm reading about people putting COBs very close -- like 12" -- from the leaves. I'm not sure what the physics of that are, they provide more light but its light that doesn't burn...?

Obviously I'm at the beginning of the learning curve, so I appreciate any help.
You could get away with 120W of Vero 29 (~40% efficient) in your case.
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
You could get away with 120W of Vero 29 (~40% efficient) in your case.
When you say "get away with", what exactly are we talking about? I understand there's no hard science on this, but if you were to take an educated guess, what would I gain by going with the 200w instead of the 120w?

And specifically, if I went with the 120w would I be losing only quantity, or do you think that I might also sacrifice quality?

When I say quality I'm not referring to bud density -- I consider that a factor of weight which is quantity. Quality to me is primarily related to potency, i.e. a bag full of larfy bud that kicks your ass and smokes well, is perfectly fine as long as there is enough of it to meet the patients needs. I hope that makes sense.
 

JimmyIndica

Well-Known Member
Have you run this set up full cycle -- all the way through harvest -- yet? The COBs are still new enough that it seems like people are looking for their limits and testing to see how much would be too much.

I've been looking at the Optics and the space I'd be putting it in is 28" x 22" x 60", and I was considering the 120w Vero because they state the footprint as 36" x 24" (@16 inches, so even at less it should be enough light spread). Do you think the 120w would be sufficient for one plant in that space? If it can't handle that space, its hard to imagine what it was actually designed for.
Ó
It seems like the common line is that more is better and put as much light into the space as you possibly can, but I wonder at what point are there diminishing returns -- or possibly drawbacks. With HPS its obvious, too much (or too close) and you'll cook your plants. I've read about some LEDs bleaching the leaves when they get too close, but now I'm reading about people putting COBs very close -- like 12" -- from the leaves. I'm not sure what the physics of that are, they provide more light but its light that doesn't burn...?

Obviously I'm at the beginning of the learning curve, so I appreciate any help.
Many people are gonna give u many different answers! The setup I run! My 200watt optic covers 18in x 24in flower! during veg at 16-20 u can cover the 2x3, I don't like darkness on my edges! I have no airy buds, dense and heavy.,but training,defoilating has more to do with that. Here is yield from blueberryhead band 4ft and tad over 4oz
 

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AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
When you say "get away with", what exactly are we talking about? I understand there's no hard science on this, but if you were to take an educated guess, what would I gain by going with the 200w instead of the 120w?

And specifically, if I went with the 120w would I be losing only quantity, or do you think that I might also sacrifice quality?

When I say quality I'm not referring to bud density -- I consider that a factor of weight which is quantity. Quality to me is primarily related to potency, i.e. a bag full of larfy bud that kicks your ass and smokes well, is perfectly fine as long as there is enough of it to meet the patients needs. I hope that makes sense.
My apologies for the lack of showing credibility - I'm just now getting to my cup of black tea for the morning, lol.

When it comes to growing plants, there are so many variables to a successful grow operation. Lighting is huge - quality and quantity go hand in hand.

You mentioned you were growing in a confined space and that Optic claimed a large footprint with a measly 120W. The fact of the matter is that all COBS, which offer 120 degree angle output, are going to illuminate around the same area at around the same heights above the ground, due to the law of sines. Now keep in mind, the more power or bigger the COB, the greater the intensity of the illumination, therefore making the light appear brighter in that given area when using more watts.

The point is that even though the 120W covers 36" x 24" at 16" inches, the 200W will do the same but with a higher intensity.

Moving onto to quantity and quality; plants only require so many umols per given area. Some here, such as GreenGenes, will state that 500-1000 PFFD (umol per square meter) is 'adequate' or even ideal for start to finish when growing marijuana, where others will seek upwards to around 1500 PFFD, with anymore being too much for the plant. I think Supra goes after around 300 PPFD for seedlings and plants vegetating. What ends up happening is that the law of diminishing returns comes into effect around 1000 PFFD, which undermines attempts to raise PFFD levels any further.

Comparing the PFFD from my 120W fixtures (heavenbright.com) with Optics, as each incorporate Vero products and run at similar efficacys, your area of ~2.5' x ~2' would receive around 800 PPFD with the 120W - really a nice level to be growing at.

I don't believe quality will differ too greatly between choosing either the 120W or 200W models, as both will share similar lighting qualities.

I totally understand how quality can be crucial - it takes less butter that is heavily concentrated with THC or CBD to make a batch of brownies, thus increasing both supply of product AND profit ;).

Humanrob, if you're serious about buying COB-infused lighting fixtures, please check out my selection! I'll make sure you're taken care of :)
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
@AquariusPanta -- thanks for that thorough and well thought out reply. I am only growing for one medical patient (my wife), so there is no profit involved. This has become an all-consuming hobby for me, and I'm loving it, so that's what I get out of it. I like to do things right, I appreciate quality tools, but I can't afford to try too many things while looking for the best system for my situation. The next light I buy, I will probably live with for a long time.

Thanks again -
 

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
Hello gents... Just following up on my order from LEDDNA. They labeled my order as "shipped" on May 18 but the item didn't get to their Hong Kong postal office until June 1 (this information from the tracking # they provided me three weeks after it was labeled as shipped and the day that I will be receiving my order anyway...).

I e-mailed them four times (over the course of two weeks) to finally receive an answer today that had the tracking # and "just wait" in it. Just a heads up for anyone who wants to order from them. Personally I almost made a yelp account to leave them a bad review but then I got blazed and now there's coffee in my keyboard...
 
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Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
A cannabis specific section of llumitex website which is where certain fixtures are categorized.
http://www.illumitex.com/led-grow-lights-horticulture/
And the "power harvest" is on their finally, and gives a ppf and µmol/w(1.8-1.9µmols/J). As were those figure are absent NS and DS fixture specs.
But when you go to the greenhouse...it's called the PowerPAR is sold exclusively through PARsource.Weird. The powerPAR pics show more chips than the drawing in the harvest spec sheet...and they show nothing of the chips. Both spec sheets have the same exact specs. So I'mm 95% they are the same, otherwise the specs would be different with such a significant chip count difference for the same wattage.
Power harvester says... ip66 rated led assembly(dust and powerful waterjets tight)...sounds fishy, as in not really ip66 as a whole fixture, but I am assuming the worst. And is actively cooled...so really not buying it. But it is ETL, so that is solid.

Anyways...just some info
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
A cannabis specific section of llumitex website which is where certain fixtures are categorized.
http://www.illumitex.com/led-grow-lights-horticulture/
And the "power harvest" is on their finally, and gives a ppf and µmol/w(1.8-1.9µmols/J). As were those figure are absent NS and DS fixture specs.
But when you go to the greenhouse...it's called the PowerPAR is sold exclusively through PARsource.Weird. The powerPAR pics show more chips than the drawing in the harvest spec sheet...and they show nothing of the chips. Both spec sheets have the same exact specs. So I'mm 95% they are the same, otherwise the specs would be different with such a significant chip count difference for the same wattage.
Power harvester says... ip66 rated led assembly(dust and powerful waterjets tight)...sounds fishy, as in not really ip66 as a whole fixture, but I am assuming the worst. And is actively cooled...so really not buying it. But it is ETL, so that is solid.

Anyways...just some info
They have great website layout but their product seems to be a little far-fetched.... are they not assuming 100% light efficiency in the Powerharvest spec sheet with PPF being QER multiplied by fixture wattage, or is there some sort of math that I'm not automatically making sense of?
 

doctorflux

Well-Known Member
Power harvester says... ip66 rated led assembly(dust and powerful waterjets tight)...sounds fishy, as in not really ip66 as a whole fixture, but I am assuming the worst. And is actively cooled...so really not buying it. But it is ETL, so that is solid.
Illumitex uses a potting compound to encapsulate all around the Surexi LEDs after mounting and wiring the modules. Considering the Surexi also has a cover glass adhered to the optical assembly, the potted assembly would be quite waterproof.

Also several suppliers (EMB Pabst comes to mind) offer IP67 / IP66 rated fans, but I agree - it sounds like only the LED assembly is waterproof.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Illumitex uses a potting compound to encapsulate all around the Surexi LEDs after mounting and wiring the modules. Considering the Surexi also has a cover glass adhered to the optical assembly, the potted assembly would be quite waterproof.

Also several suppliers (EMB Pabst comes to mind) offer IP67 / IP66 rated fans, but I agree - it sounds like only the LED assembly is waterproof.
Yes they do. IP68 actually.
IMG_6047.jpg
A good selection too. Noise level is not the greatest, but in an industrial/commercial situation, or even greenhouse...not as big an issue compare to being or not being IP.

They had a sick display...
IMG_5115.jpg
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
all these HT NorCal Cup stories keep coming up in my offsite News-Feed....this one made me throw up a little...:peace:
Double scammers, sell shitty lighting AND copy and mimic another sort of well known brand to boot....Maybe concentrate on what YOU actually produce...err...buy from China and stamp your name on...

 
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