LED DIY (planning, suggestions are welcome)

Yeah, constant current drivers won't help you if an LED blows while wired in series, plus you wouldn't want to wire a constant current driver in parallel.
 
You might want to think a little deeper before you post
Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it.
with the Vero chips no solder is needed, just screws and clip in power connector.
if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?
 
Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it. if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?

5 year warranty, "Industry’s Best Warranty Protection" if that's not the final nail, then what?
 
I'd like to see a par comparison in a 3 x 3 area at different heights.


20 xml l2 run at 6.5w for 130w (runs hot at that level ,couldn't imagine how hot they would be at 3a) versus 1 cob at 130w (or two smaller ones to make spread a more even compare).


that would tell a lot


if I had two vero 29, drivers, and a par meter I could do a 240w version of that test (could just refit my veg light). Maybe in a few months
 
I'd like to see a par comparison in a 3 x 3 area at different heights.


20 xml l2 run at 6.5w for 130w (runs hot at that level ,couldn't imagine how hot they would be at 3a) versus 1 cob at 130w (or two smaller ones to make spread a more even compare).


that would tell a lot


if I had two vero 29, drivers, and a par meter I could do a 240w version of that test (could just refit my veg light). Maybe in a few months

I have two Vero 29's, where do I get a Par meter from? Local stores have that sort of thing?
 
That would be a easy way to compare it. Both our lights are built and ready to be measured. My flower light has switches so I can shutoff everything but the 240w of xmls. Can't quite swing the price of the meter right now but maybe in a little bit..

reefled.com has a rental for the meter with a security deposit. Might be a good option..$20 a week
 
That would be a easy way to compare it. Both our lights are built and ready to be measured. My flower light has switches so I can shutoff everything but the 240w of xmls. Can't quite swing the price of the meter right now but maybe in a little bit..

I wanted to get one of these before and test the set up, I have a 2700K and a 5000K, I wonder how that would read.
 
Mine are 5000k and 3200k. Really similar setup just different approach.

Never used a par meter before. If it works on the Area 51 mostly white panel should work fine on these setups
 
ok for your budged of 100-125€ i came up with the following low Price Suggestion (includes shipping, does not include "Import" taxes, from the ebay shop/seller "sure-display") if you wait like 2 more weeks then i can tell you if These cobs and Drivers actually work- there r also other possibilites regarding the Drivers (driving parallel etc.), but this is a simple and still cheap solution:[TABLE="width: 360"]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]price per piece
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]count
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]price per type
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]real W
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]Sum W
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]red 630 30W
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]6,18
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]2
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]12,36
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]23
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]46
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]WW 30W
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]3,14
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]5
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]15,7
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]37
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]185
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]CW 30W
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]3,14
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]3
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]9,42
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]37
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]111
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]drivers 30W
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]5,89
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]10
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]58,9
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"][/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]total price
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]96,38€
[/TD]
[TD="class: xl65, width: 80, bgcolor: transparent"]real Watts:
[/TD]
[TD="bgcolor: transparent, align: right"]342W
[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
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