PICOGRAV
Well-Known Member
??? lol quite the opposite to what i just saidi guess you didnt use constant current Drivers, did you?
You might want to think a little deeper before you post.
??? lol quite the opposite to what i just saidi guess you didnt use constant current Drivers, did you?
Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it.You might want to think a little deeper before you post
if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?with the Vero chips no solder is needed, just screws and clip in power connector.
Ah lol, well for me "fail" is "-zaaap your Money is gone, all leds r destroyed" (i was thinking: if not using a CC-Driver,without the proper "controls" a normal voltage source could destroy one led by another as a chain reaction, so all would actually "fail" as in beeing destroyed)...he was talking about fail in as in "they go dark",so just one faulty...if one is defective, i would not Need much time to locate it (with a DMM takes about 1sec to check one led) and then replace it. if you get the led on a heatsink, you would just have to desolder the wires. but i was not asking about effort to put into to built it or something like that. But what happens if there is a partial failure of the cob vs single leds -> yea it goes "dark" but you can replace it with no big "financial loss". I was talking about DIY, not some hard enclosed end product with 10000 small screews and glue and stuff like that. I mean i dont know, but does a small failure "get bridged" somehow in cobs (so maybe just a Little dark spot) or is it completly defective then?
I'd like to see a par comparison in a 3 x 3 area at different heights.
20 xml l2 run at 6.5w for 130w (runs hot at that level ,couldn't imagine how hot they would be at 3a) versus 1 cob at 130w (or two smaller ones to make spread a more even compare).
that would tell a lot
if I had two vero 29, drivers, and a par meter I could do a 240w version of that test (could just refit my veg light). Maybe in a few months
That would be a easy way to compare it. Both our lights are built and ready to be measured. My flower light has switches so I can shutoff everything but the 240w of xmls. Can't quite swing the price of the meter right now but maybe in a little bit..