Andrew1981
Member
I mean for the meanwell led driver it doesn't come with a plug does it? or do i need to buy a plug cut it then connect tot eh wires. And i would like to connect the fans to one dimmer controling all fans.
Led Drivers and heatsink question for the cxa3070 build.
- Thread starter Andrew1981
- Start date
Andrew1981
Member
Sorry couldnt upload an image. Which one would best suit my 4 by 2 area. I made a few diagrams with heatsinks and leds on them. Sorry for my newb word drawing but it shows pretty much what i want to do. Which you think is better? ty for all your input.
ellydee
Well-Known Member
The driver does not have a plug attached. The blue wire is the "neutral" (the bigger slot in your wall socket) and the brown wire is "line". (the smaller slot in the wall socket) THIS IS FOR U.S.A. setups.
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
I just cut an old grounded extension cord i had kicking around and connected it to my meanwell driver, simple and heavy duty enough.
Andrew1981
Member
Ty guys did any of you look at my PDFs trying to figure out what the best placement would be for my 10 vero
bicit
Well-Known Member
Better off just going to wal-mart or home depot and buying a grounded plug. Less than $2, much easier to work with and you don't have to destroy a perfectly good extension cord. It's worth noting that as long as you get the ground in the right spot, you can't really mess up the wiring. The HLG series can be run on a 240v line with 2 'live' wires and a ground.
As far as placement is concerned. The PDF with 4 bars would give you the most adjustment options, but would require more fans. The 2 bar design would offer great coverage and heatsink temps with fewer fans.
I'd say go with the 2 bar design and start off with 6 vero 18's. Add the last 4 as you can afford it. If you're not planning on any automation I'd stick with the A type driver which has an internal pot to adjust. The B type has another set of wires sticking out.
Andrew1981
Member
Ty much yea I was thinking the two bar would be better I was going to run 5 on each 40 inch 4.85 heatsink. Do you think I will need two fans for those two bars. Is there a power supply unit that I can adjust the output to run those fans at lower voltage and what not. I want to drill and tap so I think I checked the screws would be m2.5
bicit
Well-Known Member
Find an old cell phone charger and cut the end off. Most are typically 5v and between 500-1000ma. There should be a label on the side.
With the vero line you'll want an M3 screws. I'd recommend a 2.8mm drill and a M3x0.5 pitch cold form(cold roll) tap, no flutes. Any sort of finish or material should work. Bright finish, High strength steel, bright finish is typically the cheapest.
Use the drill press to start the tap straight, then finish by hand.
Andrew1981
Member
Are you sure vero18 is m3 could of sworn it said 2.5. Also how long should these screws be for the heatsink I don't want to go through correct.
bicit
Well-Known Member
look up the data sheet. I'm sure its M3. Depth doesn't really matter. You'll want a bottoming tap if you want to do blind holes.
bicit
Well-Known Member
My apologies, it was the vero 29 that specified m3... i guess I just assumed they all called for m3 a2.5m is recommended on the data sheet but as long as your accurate 3m screws will work the holes are 3.4mm.
Andrew1981
Member
Is it ok if I drill through the heatsink instead of a blind hole considering I can find such a small screw.
salmonetin
Well-Known Member
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content...Handling-and-Assembly-of-Vero-LED-modules.pdfMy apologies, it was the vero 29 that specified m3... i guess I just assumed they all called for m3 a
...pag 17 (Mechanical Assembly and Fasteners) -pag 18 (Screw Head Types for Vero LED Modules) -pag 19 (Vero LED Module Mounting Specifications)...
...m3 for vero 29... m2,5 for the rest of the veros...
saludos
ellydee
Well-Known Member
I have been thinking the same thing. Everyone seems to be struggling with the smaller taps.
Andrew1981
Member
Yea not so much the m3 actual size but the length of it. Meaning if the heatsink base is .14 kind of hard to find a screw that won't go through. So I'm guessing if I tap through the heatsink and use a m3 screw but a longer length where it will go through the heatsink I sure that won't be a problem just want to double check to see if anyone has done that.
JavaCo
Well-Known Member
I drill and tap threw my heat sinks. Not much of a choice with the ones i use. Wont hurt anything. You can also use SAE 3-48 or 3-56 screws they are just .001 of a inch bigger and might be easier to find here in the states. A good source for hardware http://www.mcmaster.com/#
Andrew1981
Member
Ty Java I'm going to order up some stuff and get my project going there will be pics keep posted
Andrew1981
Member
Java where did you buy your tap from did you do a forming tap.cause some taps have a h6 h4 kind of thing on them. What Size drill but did you use also TyTy
