LED self build (el-cheapo)

SmokingCrow

Active Member
Growing to the plants full potential is about understanding what is holding it back. Using fluorescent lights and standard compost are probably the main reasons for ‘low’ yield of my last (and first) grow.

To that end, installing new LED lights was my first priority, as super soil seemed easy to make (for me).

Aliexpress, was where I started and called on my son’s expertise, an electrical engineering graduate, as well as months of research on various forums.

Premade, manufactured LED grow lights are expensive and I’m not in a position to spend the money. With that in mind, I decided to make them myself.
My design consideration:
50w full spectrum LED lights
heat sink and fan

The main design concern was heat dissipation, LED chips generate lots of heat and LEDs do not like heat. It did not take long for me to realise it was way to complex to design or calculate the right sized heat sink for the heat output so I guessed. 100 x 100 x 18mm aluminium heat sink with a fan blowing on it.

Does the fan blow or suck? It did not take long to find that I should align the fan so it blew air toward the fins; where would you stand when you’re hot, in front or behind a fan?

Two suppliers were chosen to supply the LED chips and there is no noticeable difference. Both are 50w full spectrum LEDs and 220v so I did not need to buy and size transformers. The 12v fans were 80 x 80mm and the cheapest on the site which in hindsight was a mistake as the fins are really fragile, but they do the job. Perhaps 220v would have been a better choice than 12v to make the electrics a little easier. A redundant 12v transformer is the power source for the fans.

The heat sink keeps the LEDs cool; they are about 23-26C, one of the test 12v transformers packed up and the fan stopped working. I touched the heat sink and it was hot, not so it sizzled and I did not get a blister. I expect it was around 60 or 70C.

The electrical engineer suggested that the power be parallel not serial. Using some leftover lengths of thin aluminium bar; one side as positive and the other negative.
The grow room is 2000mm long, the aluminium bar was 1800 (6’) and I had 8 units and drilled evenly spaced holes that matched up with the fans through this bar.

The process
Cleaned the back of LED chip and the back of the heat sink with alcohol/methylated spirit. Used a heat sink cement and stuck the LEDs onto the heat sink (centralised of course)
The lights were held in place by screwing through predrilled holes in the bar, through the fans, into the plugs between the fins in the heat sink. The bared 12v wires for the fans were then wrapped around the screws and tightened up for a good connection.
The 220v wiring was soldered into place and zip tied to the frame to reduce any tension on the soldered connections. I alternated the wiring so one plug powered every alternate LED, 200w each plug. This also allowed some form of light control.
Being aluminium bar meant the whole rail bowed when hung up. By adding an aluminium angle stiffened the entire rail.

The costs are detailed below:
LED 50 full spectrum £1.70
Fans 80x80mm £2.00
Heatsink 100x100x18mm £6.00
total £9.70

Less than a tenner about £13-14 USD

I’ll need to see if it makes a difference to yield. Please wait for about 3 months........although I've changed a few other things supersoil, compost teas and topping/training.



IMG_4654.JPGIMG_4648.JPGIMG_4649.JPGIMG_4661.JPG
 

CraigMk

Well-Known Member
This looks a little dodge. That whit wire with the live and nuetrul ... have you wired the live to the frame? If so I wouldn't touch it lol
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
That whit wire with the live and nuetrul ... have you wired the live to the frame? If so I wouldn't touch it lol
He ONLY did the 12vdc to each aluminum rail, not the 220VAC...that's done much better and secured with penny zip ties.
One aluminum rail is +, the other is -, that's a new one. I've only seen stuff from the early 1890-1920's wired like that.
Chose blurple as your spectrum? Whats the story there?
 
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CraigMk

Well-Known Member
He ONLY did the 12vdc to each aluminum rail, not the 220VAC...that's done much better and secured with penny zip ties.
One aluminum rail is +, the other is -, that's a new one. I've only seen stuff from the early 1890-1920's wired like that.
Chose blurple as your spectrum? Whats the story there?
12v I didn't read like should have. Looks like an ok light then..
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
12v I didn't read like should have. Looks like an ok light then..
Not really, the frame is energized with 12vDC, no insulation...anything that falls across the rails causes short/fire and how is that going to be a ground for the AC circuit he has running below it? There's a reason no one has done that in a hundred years, think about it!
 
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CraigMk

Well-Known Member
Not really, the frame is energized with 12vDC, no insulation...anything that falls across the rails causes short/fire and how is that going to be a ground for the AC circuit he has running below it? There's a reason no one has done that in a hundred years, think about it!
He saved the expense of 5 meters of wire to create a deathtrap light, anything it contacts and poof goes the house
Yeah tottaly agree you make total sense. Madness to risk fire and loss of life or death over insulate wire and connector . Also white led is where it is at. I have kingbrite 240w 3000k 660nm quantum board and shes smashing it .blurple is years old.
 

Horselover fat

Well-Known Member
Also white led is where it is at. I have kingbrite 240w 3000k 660nm quantum board and shes smashing it .blurple is years old.
Blurple will grow just as well as white. It's just the shit led companies gave them bad rep with their inflated claims and shitty leds. A blurple can be made more energy efficient and for the same photon count they will grow the same. Working with your plants and diagnosing them under blurple is impossible and that's what makes white leds far superior.
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
Blurple will grow just as well as white. It's just the shit led companies gave them bad rep with their inflated claims and shitty leds. A blurple can be made more energy efficient and for the same photon count they will grow the same. Working with your plants and diagnosing them under blurple is impossible and that's what makes white leds far superior.
It will veg as well as white leds , flower is where they fall off...that is definitely not a tuned spectrum LED, thats old time ye olde Blurples.
Lets not pretend this is some sophisticated build here and get other people burning down their houses, trying to copy this mess or think its OK

Energizing the frame (extremely stupid, this is so dangerous even at 12vDC)
Unsecured 220vAC wiring with exposed terminals (very stupid, what happens when a cord is inadvertently yanked..no grounding!)
Hanging the energized rails with...insulated copper wire! (brilliant, until the vibration and gravity cuts the insulation, shorts the +,-rails and starts a fire)
Ye Olde Blurples ( just a personal choice, I guess)

They used to make appliances like that in the 1890's when everyone was ignorant of electricity, no excuse for this today.
He better have his Electrical Engineer son have a look at this, maybe he can talk sense to the man.
 
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SmokingCrow

Active Member
Okay chaps, You've raised some valid points

My wife has had a stroke, I have left my job to care for her full time - I'm broke. This medicine has stopped five siezures a day to one a week or so, pain levels to a bearable level and helps with a few other things. When you see something Heath Robinson like my light, it could be that it was one of the few options available and that ordering a shiny new Mars light from amazon beyond reach.

These lights cost about a tenner to build, replace a free modified t5 system. There are risks with electricity 220v and 12v but I've risk assessed them for my grow room where I am the only person who accesses it and in my mind the risks are low. You're right as a commercial device, it would need significant modification.

-12v live rail - I've bought lights from IKEA with a live 12v cable supporting and powering lights in the 1980s and not 1890.
-220v is secured to the rails using zip ties in multiple places to prevent the cable being pulled off at any time. I ripped off a cable during "manufacture" and did not want it to happen when it was up.
-Wire at the top, yup it's a low risk but I'll change it to a zip tie

Safety advice is really important to share but taking high moral ground, words like "stupud" and comments dripping with sarcasm don't make pleasant reading.

Thanks for the concerns, and heed the warnings if you are thinking of copying this design.

Merry Christmas
 

DCcan

Well-Known Member
Safety advice is really important to share but taking high moral ground, words like "stupud" and comments dripping with sarcasm don't make pleasant reading.
Good, it was meant to be eye opening so no one else will jump into the fire with you.
This is like shooting bullets in the air...there are no high morals involved in pointing out stupidity that endangers others.

For what its worth, 20 ft of 12v wire (replace the "rail" wire), 10 wire clamps attached with screws and a tube of silicon caulk will take care of most of that for less than $15

That will remove the 12v transformer from isolating the rail's potential to ground, then you can ground it, put silicon over the exposed LED contacts, and attach the AC wiring securely to the frame so nothing gets yanked when moving. And your head wont get electrocuted when you are under it trying to move plants.
The ty-wraps will degrade from the light/heat and become brittle, those are not UV resistant ones, so don't depend on holding anything long term.
Also, what is the AC wire rated at and does it have a ground, because it looks like speaker wire. It should be printed on there for max voltage and temp, you may want to look, and get at least ONE ground wire on that frame somewhere.

And again, have you shown this to the electrical engineer? He'll tell you the same thing, its a menace to all life around it.
 
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Nizza

Well-Known Member
kind of reminds me of a choo choo train or old school knob-and-tube wiring

Good luck and be safe bro. I wish you and your wife the best of luck with everything!
 
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