Led solder melting when led turns on?

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George2324

Well-Known Member
i just finished part of my build and when I turned on the driver they all lit up fine but some of the solder joints that I've done look like they are melting.

One wire so far fell off due to melting and several others look like they have a brown flux stain around the outside of the solder joint from the heat.

What can I do to stop this?
 

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GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
The melting temp of most 60/40 rosin core solder is almost 400°F so it would be unlikely the chip would survive. I think that it is just a faulty solder joint- clean the solder off and try again.
Also, make sure you're using ROSIN core-not ACID core solder.
 
Observe & Report

Observe & Report

Well-Known Member
It's normal for the brown flux residue to float to the top of the joint, you can remove it with ispropyl alcohol.

Make sure the wires and everything are taped or otherwise secured down so they don't move when soldering. If the wire moves at all after you lift the iron but before the solder cools you'll get a "cold" solder joint (that's bad). Cold solder joints are dull grey, good ones are shiny silver. Watch some YouTube videos if you need more help.
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
Observe & Report said:
It's normal for the brown flux residue to float to the top of the joint, you can remove it with ispropyl alcohol.

Make sure the wires and everything are taped or otherwise secured down so they don't move when soldering. If the wire moves at all after you lift the iron but before the solder cools you'll get a "cold" solder joint (that's bad). Cold solder joints are dull grey, good ones are shiny silver. Watch some YouTube videos if you need more help.
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It might have been a faulty joint other ones are ok for now. I've went and used hot glue on every single joint and it's made them very secure.

Hopefully the issue is resolved.

Cheers for help
 
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High Above

Well-Known Member
Sorry for intruding your tread but i have somewhat similar problem.

So when i took apart my panels i tore down 1 connector if that's what it's called on my Citizen CLU048-1212C4. I am talking about the small metal plate that are on the side of '+' and '-' that you solder onto. Can it be fixed? I tried soldering without it and the solder just falls down.
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
High Above said:
Sorry for intruding your tread but i have somewhat similar problem.

So when i took apart my panels i tore down 1 connector if that's what it's called on my Citizen CLU048-1212C4. I am talking about the small metal plate that are on the side of '+' and '-' that you solder onto. Can it be fixed? I tried soldering without it and the solder just falls down.
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If that can be fixed I will have a fit...
As I had to replace 8 cobs that I broke due to that metal connector breaking offf.

I don't believe that can be fixed
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
Word to the wise... Buy holders. Cheap insurance.
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I bought 680 citizen cob leds for 8 usd each.

680 holders would cost nearly as much as the LEDS. I then broke 8 cobs so I only lost like 64 dollars.

I would of spent nearly 1500 or more on holders.

They are worth it if you only have a small setup though. I just couldn't justify spending so much on holders
 
greg nr

greg nr

Well-Known Member
First rule of soldering: never solder a joint where the joint or the wire attached to it will be free floating. Either secure it mechanically or use crimp/mechanical connector. Soldered connections are prohibited in both marine and aviation applications.

Soldered joints are, to put it succinctly, crap, from a strength standpoint any.
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
greg nr said:
First rule of soldering: never solder a joint where the joint or the wire attached to it will be free floating. Either secure it mechanically or use crimp/mechanical connector. Soldered connections are prohibited in both marine and aviation applications.

Soldered joints are, to put it succinctly, crap, from a strength standpoint any.
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I used a hot glue gun to put glue all around the joint and about 1.5 inch up the wire to secure the wire to the heat sink.

It seems to have done the job to secure it . And it's very cheap
 
DrBlaze

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
greg nr said:
First rule of soldering: never solder a joint where the joint or the wire attached to it will be free floating. Either secure it mechanically or use crimp/mechanical connector. Soldered connections are prohibited in both marine and aviation applications.

Soldered joints are, to put it succinctly, crap, from a strength standpoint any.
Click to expand...
George2324 said:
I used a hot glue gun to put glue all around the joint and about 1.5 inch up the wire to secure the wire to the heat sink.

It seems to have done the job to secure it . And it's very cheap
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Am currently putting together a few fixtures. Was thinking of using clear silicone for this.
 
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George2324

Well-Known Member
DrBlaze said:
Am currently putting together a few fixtures. Was thinking of using clear silicone for this.
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Clear silicone and hot glue would probably do exactly the same thing..

Your best off using hot glue as it costs pennies compared to silicone..

Also hot glue will probably be a better adhesive unless you pay extra for good quality adhesive silicone
 
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