kush groove
Active Member
packaging was descreet enough for me.....but it is labeled gotham products on the shipper
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packaging was descreet enough for me.....but it is labeled gotham products on the shipper
joe macclennan
Well-Known Member
thanks kush
i am going to call gotham anyways because i don't like the idea of having a history on ebay that anyone can check
i do have one more question on led fixtures in general tho guys i have seen the claims that a 500 watt led is equal to well over a 1000 watt hid in output but i find it hard to believe what have your experiences been regarding this and one dumb led newbie question a 500 watt led fixture is still going to burn 500 watts of electric so the main savings for me would be on heat related issues like a/c, venting, infrared detection and also bulb replacement costs right?
i am going to call gotham anyways because i don't like the idea of having a history on ebay that anyone can check
i do have one more question on led fixtures in general tho guys i have seen the claims that a 500 watt led is equal to well over a 1000 watt hid in output but i find it hard to believe what have your experiences been regarding this and one dumb led newbie question a 500 watt led fixture is still going to burn 500 watts of electric so the main savings for me would be on heat related issues like a/c, venting, infrared detection and also bulb replacement costs right?
dunit
Active Member
That's not actually a dumb question and the power consuption with LED panels is actually quite confusing. First off your 1000WHID typically consumes about 1100 watts and I think Digital Ballasts are supposed to be a bit more efficient but they draw at least their advertised rating.
LED is much more complicated. For example a 3W LED is rated for 3W maximum but if you drive it anywhere near the maximum they produce way more heat than light and are incredibly inefficient and their life span is reduced about 80%. When they get hot their spectrum also shifts so it's never good to drive them to max rating. Because of that they are usually driven about 50% of maximum rated wattage so the actual consumption of a panel is much lower than the advertized max. For example the Stealth Grow 602 actually draws 350 watts which is probably 300W driving the LED's and the rest is lost in power supply and fans. My 357 draws 180Watts. If you are buying a 500W panel if it's being driven at peak efficiency it should draw about 250-300 Watts. Some of the new super-high end, high power LED can apparently be driven at about 70% but you won't see those in horticultural panels as they are over $20 a piece wholesale so until the price comes down they are just not viable.
It may seem like a waste to drive them at half power but the 50% in power reduction generally only results in about a 30% loss in light output so they are 40% more efficient at that level. It's better to underdrive them and just use more.
In terms of how many watts to use to replace HID......isn't that the million dollar question.
If you reasearch some grow journals of some well established LED growers (IRISHBOY is one to google) you'll see they are close to 1g per watt but I haven't seen any credible ones beyond that. There's a guy on here, LedBudGuy, who got .9g/watt on his first journal and is running a second one right now. While these numbers don't necessarily seem all that impressive (I have seen HID pulling the same numbers) Keep in mind these number are using the advertised rating of the light so the grams per consumed watt is fairly impressive and pushes over 1.7 grams per watt in the above instances.
Still means that to replace 2000W of HID you are looking at running a whole lot of LED but exactly how much I really couldn't tell you. I'm just over two weeks into an LED grow myself trying to answer that same question and the link is in my signature if you want to take a look.
kush groove
Active Member
i believe the buyers are private on ebay, but anyway I have never grown with hps.. but i do believe kaptain kron said the 240watt flowering model out performed his 400watt hps grows. So that claim may be true, im not sure though. and as far as the power goes i believe dunit is right on with that info up above..
Hudsonvalley82
Well-Known Member
You said you have and 8x8 room with light movers huh? I suppose you wont be moving the LEDs. If not then you will need around 5 500W (12 sqft each) to come close to saturating that space, I would recommend 6 actually, or even toss a 240W (6 sqft each) in there. Noting that the foot print is smaller with leds, I'm not sure how that would all work with a light mover (I haven't seen that tried out yet) But it may just be the trick.
If I were to recommend how many LEDs to put on that mover, I would just be shooting in the dark.
If I were to recommend how many LEDs to put on that mover, I would just be shooting in the dark.
dunit
Active Member
I'm pretty sure he's using a GL145L tent and its 4'6" by 9'6" unless he moved into a bigger tent later in the grow and I missed it.
TshirtNinja
Well-Known Member
Guys I'm a soil grower by trade but would like to set up a no fuss watering system based on drip irrigation and wondered how to do this on a small scale. My tent will be 4x4 with 6-8 plants. I'm thinking something similar to a product called the oasis by claber but more controlled on watering amounts and schedule. I'd like a set and forget method that I could just fill the res as needed with pre mixed water/mutes solution. Any suggestions?
dunit
Active Member
Has anyone got an HH 550? There isn't a lot of tech info on their site. From what I can tell they use 630 and 660nm reds and then just full spectrum whites. They also have 288 LED's in their panel so not sure what the breakdown is to get 550W. From pictures looks like they have 8 rows (12 each) of whites of which 4 look to be UV or IR leaving about 92 whites which is I'm guessing the 3W CREE HO Full Spectrum they are talking about which would leave the other 196 LED's being the 630-660 reds with maybe some uv or IR in those rows?
I always figured the advantage of LED was to target the spectrum peaks for Chlorophyl a & b which is why most manufacturers focus on blue and red leds with only a few whites, UV and IR. These panels certainly seem to be a very different configuration from most LED grow panels so will be very interesting to see how they perform.
I always figured the advantage of LED was to target the spectrum peaks for Chlorophyl a & b which is why most manufacturers focus on blue and red leds with only a few whites, UV and IR. These panels certainly seem to be a very different configuration from most LED grow panels so will be very interesting to see how they perform.
newworldicon
Well-Known Member
It's a total wattage of the cumulative led's.
dunit
Active Member
So are they 8 rows whites and 12 rows reds? A couple IR and UV in the mix?
Cereall
Well-Known Member
I will have to look when I get home,
There are a few rows of whites, 8 sounds about rought, like you said and the rest multi spectrum reds and a total of 4 ir bulbs I believe. There are also a few blues in 2 different spectrums placed throughout the middle
Everything is balanced and symmetrical in the layout and I will try to take a photo for ya if you would like to see
The company listed all the waver lengths and wattage in an old email I'll have to see if I can dig up
There are a few rows of whites, 8 sounds about rought, like you said and the rest multi spectrum reds and a total of 4 ir bulbs I believe. There are also a few blues in 2 different spectrums placed throughout the middle
Everything is balanced and symmetrical in the layout and I will try to take a photo for ya if you would like to see
The company listed all the waver lengths and wattage in an old email I'll have to see if I can dig up
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
your just too lazy to go look for your answers in this thread man they are all in here. Just order one you wont be sorry and besides its a cheap mistake compared to buying an expensive panel. At least that is how i looked at it til i got mine and saw how good it works.
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
yeah led bud guy is putting out some nice results with those isis panels in that space but so many panels 
lol
lol
dunit
Active Member
The questions were answered? So just as an example what was the temp on the heat sink?
The questions didn't get answered, I just stopped asking because it seemed to cause so much defensiveness and was getting out of hand.
Now I'm lazy too?
I thought we were dropping the name calling and drama.
Kaptain Kron
Well-Known Member
if i had a laser temp sensor i would go check right now for you. That question was never asked to my knowledge if it was im sure you would have gotten a straight answer, i also ask about what name calling you refer to.
I can tell you though that its not hot enough to make my hand even feel uncomfortable putting it on the back of the case.
I can tell you though that its not hot enough to make my hand even feel uncomfortable putting it on the back of the case.
joe macclennan
Well-Known Member
Because of that they are usually driven about 50% of maximum rated wattage so the actual consumption of a panel is much lower than the advertized max.ok dunnit that mostly makes sense to my somewhat fuzzy brain but as far as driving them at less than max if the lights run on 120 volts how do you do that use a dimmer? that doesn't seem right. i googled LED drivers but i don't understand how this works
please help
thanx
joe
please help
thanx
joe
Hudsonvalley82
Well-Known Member
lemme look for my IR thermometer, I have one somewhere...Give me at least 5 hours until the lights turn on and sustain for 2+hours to reach their baseline temp...