a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
Just some 3500's and some blues I picked up from Rapid LED. Just my typical bro science. Im big on that!What's the spectral formula you have going there?
Just some 3500's and some blues I picked up from Rapid LED. Just my typical bro science. Im big on that!What's the spectral formula you have going there?
Interesting pick, I have found that 3500K 80CRI actually veg's a well as 5000K 98CRI Thrive.Just some 3500's and some blues I picked up from Rapid LED. Just my typical bro science. Im big on that!
My Vero arrays are still going strong after 4 years of use.Cobs are easy to diy with for sure. I had some good grows under mine.
4 cmt series cree's at 50w a piece on gpu coolers.
Sounded like a drone flying in there
If it ain't broke don't fix it! They don't look broke. Got at least another 5 years.i still like and use this setup i made 4 years ago. cxb1830s each run at 25 watts. gonna upgrade soon but not sure to what as these have been running hard for a while now. i’ll either change out the diodes and fans on this one or buy a bar style like mars hydro has.
It's the 1825s I have, was mistaken.The 3618s are 180 watt emitters at nominal voltage. The citizens I've used are 1825s which are 60% efficient at 50 watts. I haven't done the math on the 3618s but I would be surprised if it's not 70% efficiency for 3618s in the 25 watt range. Expensive, but I want that. The AC savings would be worth the investment. One day.
IIRC there are Bridgelux cobs around 190-200 lm/W, low CRI.Do you see the cob tech advancing to the efficiency level of the newest mid-powers?
I always liked the direct "cob-replacement" type pcb's with the spectrum customization aspect
I've used (and have in operation) bare cobs, lenses and reflectors. My lamps are all 4 cob, either 12x12" or 15x15" emitter to emitter. I also have a couple CMH's running. I really like using the optics because the PAR readings are more sustained further from the lamps. They're all 50 watt emitters so for reference I generally run the bare cobs up to 4-5 inches from the tops. Reflectors and Lenses can be as close as 7 inches from tops, and if a top is closer it's fine as long as it's not directly under the cob. There will be a bit of drop off but it's still a benefit when the lamp's prime area is closer to the canopy. I get very even readings through that area with or without optics. In contrast, the CMH is heavier in the center through it's optimal zone. The CMH also throws more side light than cobs with optics fwiw.Can't say that I am as big a fan of COBs as I thought I would be. The fixture that I have doesn't spread the light out very evenly. I haven't used my COB fixture in years.
I recall a couple red based cobs, one was a red/white flip chip (?) or something like that and the other was a solid red cob. There were some compact PCB based arrays but they were really pricy! I would be interested in the small PCBs if the price was better.nobodies tries using rings pcb to suplemental the old COBs with uva or violet or blues or reds or far reds mising on the cobs???... its rare to me saw CJilled or Timber or other cobs lovers not to go on that way... the old cobs needs a bit of help with new actual monos leds... seems to me its more doable an economical (not an expensive way) in actual times...they needs less leds to go on that route... lot of cobs users like the update on actual times... separate channels for colors its an update too on actual times (on light controls to give more spectrum control)...
So you don't led at all?I’d rather use HiD’s or even CFL as the main light source because the extra radiant heat on the leaves allows for a cooler ambient temp in the low 70s
I was using MH in the winter but I might switch to a hps/ led combo for the summer I think leds are great supplemental lighting or if u could add a supplemental radiant far infrared with the leds however I’ve never seen anyone talk about doing that at that point might as well just run HIDSo you don't led at all?
good eye dan pics are from 3 years ago so we’re nearing the end thereIf it ain't broke don't fix it! They don't look broke. Got at least another 5 years.
http://instagr.am/p/CZUm14vppTZ/I recall a couple red based cobs, one was a red/white flip chip (?) or something like that and the other was a solid red cob. There were some compact PCB based arrays but they were really pricy! I would be interested in the small PCBs if the price was better.
My interest would also be peaked if there were controlled studies showing yield and content differences using supplemented spectrums. Without being convinced there's a benefit to quality or cost it's hard to get excited about it. I'm a skeptic, but open to news.
The info is all in dudes thread or whatever it's called on instagramNice. That was in January. Was the grow finished? I can't tell a difference by eye, would be nice to know final weight, purity, terpine content etc.