There is several different types of silica, some are pretty cheap, some are expensive. A guy that works at my local hydro store said that gh armor si, (potassium silicate) is not immediately available to the plant. He said that after about a week the roots break it down, before its available, but its pretty cheap. Power si is expensive and it is also potassium silicate. I know there is other formes of silica, ie monosilic and others. So whats the best silica for a hydro res. flood and drain buckets? As much as i want gh armor si to work i want something that i know is working even if it costs more.
lets talk silica
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PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
This Video will answer a lot of the questions you have specifically related to that Armor Si.
Plant available silicon is ortho silicic acid
Potassium is the counterion that floats around in solution. In the prepared nutrient solution all kinds of counterions are available. The counterion doesn't effect the effect as fertilizer.
Look here for some more information but there you'te basically talking chemistry
It's the same. Mono silicic acid means its just one Silicon. Mono being greek for one.
Potassium is the counterion that floats around in solution. In the prepared nutrient solution all kinds of counterions are available. The counterion doesn't effect the effect as fertilizer.
Look here for some more information but there you'te basically talking chemistry
Billy the Mountain
Well-Known Member
Potassium Silicate starts disassociating to Potassium and Silicate ions within minutes in water, particularly in acidic environments. There's plenty of good information regarding silicates and their bioavailability.
K2SiO3 + H2O → 2KOH + H4SiO4
The $50 bottles of "Wonder Silica" are for the gullible.
K2SiO3 + H2O → 2KOH + H4SiO4
The $50 bottles of "Wonder Silica" are for the gullible.
Ugh, that equation is terribly wrong.
If you dissolve solid potassium silicate in water you get a very basic solution (pH 14) of negatively charged, polymeric silicates and potassium counter ions. When further diluted the polymeric silicates break down into mono silicic acid and the pH can be lowered to plant compatible levels.
If the pH of the concentrated solution is lowered directly, without dilution, it just crashes out of solution and you get sand. Expensive sand that is.
Billy the Mountain
Well-Known Member
Perhaps my equation is oversimplified, it's been a while since Chem class.
The salient point in the article you cited is:
"It is a misconception that potassium silicates are somehow less “plant available”. They end up producing monosilicic acid and being perfectly available, when used properly."
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Thundercat
Well-Known Member
The key when using silica additives to avoid that crash-out issue is to add the silica to a full reservoir of water first. I've used Silica Blast, Armor SI both seemed about the same to me. I ran silica additives for several years, and honestly can't really say that they ever made a noticeable difference in my plants, so I stopped spending the extra money on them. Same thing for Cal Mag, I ran it for years as just part of what was needed, but then ran out and my plants grew exactly the same and healthy as before so I stopped using it unless I had a specific strain that needed more.
It took me a minute to learn the trick to adding silica way back when, but I try to share it with anyone I get a chance to who is using silica. The silica additives having such a high PH meant I had to make sure I adjusted the PH correctly and I quickly noticed the white cloud of percipitate when I added the silica or when I added the ph down. After a little research, I figured out what was happening and changed my SOP.
To solve the issue, I mixed a test batch of nutes in my res to get all my measurements correct for my nutes and ph with everything added. I dumped that batch because obviously, it precipitated when I added the chems. Then I knew how much of everything I needed, and so I would fill the res with water and start adding with my silica first, and mix that in, then add the nutes and finally, any ph down that was needed to set my final number. Worked like a charm for years, and unless I changed up my recipe, I didn't have to make up test reservoirs each time, just mixed and went.
amneziaHaze
Well-Known Member
Best part about silica products is that they sell you a 1L bottle with 4% silica...
I found a basement sealer that is pure potassium silicate 5L for 20$.i have to find a place to test it but as far as i have found online if its blue or green it has heavy metals but if its clear like water it should be safe.
Been using it for my flowers 20ml in 1L and then from that i use 5ml/L
I found a basement sealer that is pure potassium silicate 5L for 20$.i have to find a place to test it but as far as i have found online if its blue or green it has heavy metals but if its clear like water it should be safe.
Been using it for my flowers 20ml in 1L and then from that i use 5ml/L
amneziaHaze
Well-Known Member
I didnt know that.soo how would one use it in hydroponics? Are there specific bacteria that eat it or any dirt will have them?
It has been tested to see if plants uptake it, I remember grasses and Pine species and some broadleafs. For example i believe with soybean it took some up but only at high Si concentration in the solution, and crimson clover didnt take it up period. One day some university will do proper testing and we will know, also could show us what specific nutrient deficencys actually look like.
Mr. Mohaskey
Well-Known Member
I just started monosilicic, as my first foray into SI, and the label says to add last or you will get foam. I didn't read the label and added first and got foam. It may just be the brand, Growgreen Monosilicic, but....
Billy the Mountain
Well-Known Member
There is no availability difference between Potassium Silicate and the more expensive options. The most salient difference is price.
From the Science in Hydroponics article:
In the end, at the pH where plants are fed, acid stabilized Si and potassium silicate sources generate the exact same monosilicic acid. Plant availability is not an advantage of using this sort of product.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Well from what Ive learned that is not true. (Not saying it wrong just saying that's what I've learned)
I'll have to look into it further I suppose.
From what I've learned silicates need ALOT of time to break down, and even then you're only getting a small % of availability. Is that enough? Maybe? I'm not a scientist but I play one on tv... Lol
Interesting though. I'll try to find some info backing my claim..... Been busy dealing with my trucks brakes past couple weeks. Now I think it's the caliper..... Change that now tmrw. Ffs. Never ends.
Most expensive things.... Cars, silica and ..... WOMEN! LMFAO
Billy the Mountain
Well-Known Member
It's an often repeated misconception, mostly from the purveyors of exorbitantly priced alternatives to Potassium Silicate.
I would encourage you to read the article about silicates. The author is the guy behind hydrobuddy and a chemist by training.
voodoosdaddy
Well-Known Member
I've been using this in soil. I think it was like 35 bucks. Works great.
Attachments
Silicates is a generic term for hundreds or thousands of different chemicals. Everything that contains a silicate group is included there. It can be mono silicic acid that is plant available (ortho silicic acid ist a synonym). It can also refer to calcium silicate (wollastonite) that is somewhat soluble and thus available to plants. But it can also refer to other minerals such as aluminium silicates that arr unsoluble and thus unavailable to plants. Those would need to be weathered and could become plant available on the timeline of months to years.