Light Fuse and get away!!!

S

Soulkipper

Active Member
At lease make this person acquire a field doctors' tried and true theorem for using these advanced chem regimens.

You can't take a seat of the government then ignore that you are indeed changing the facts.
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
problems with our electrical inspector who is... let me see, how should I say this.... A total fucking prick? Yeah, that about covers it.

Put some people on it, I'm going on vacation.
 
Beer Belly

Beer Belly

Well-Known Member
Had a recent fire at my place. Getting all repaired now. I agree most Inspectors are dicks. First thing to do is get chummy, offer them a drink, get some conversation running, make them think they are cool. Kind of like a girl your trying to seal the deal with. Then life gets easier. You may not get laid but they are way less likely to nitpick your shit.
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Yeah. We are super chill with our other inspector. This gut was just as an asshole from the get go. Coming in and telling us all these things we needed to do....that we actually don't have to do. One of those..our electrical contractor just talks to the supervisors at the city kind of thing.

What can I say..the guys a dick. Even our contractor said...yeah, bummer on that guy, he is a dick.

Not a big deal..going to push final inspection our till Monday is all.

So perhaps...with some 12 hour days kind of shit..we will have plants in there by thursday.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
well things are coming along nicely. i can't wait to see the plants in there. this should be a really great grow soon enough. damn inspectors, so many of them just want to make it look like they did something so they find shit thats not really a problem and make it one. bottle of moet for the cheers when the plants go in?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Soulkipper said:
At lease make this person acquire a field doctors' tried and true theorem for using these advanced chem regimens.

You can't take a seat of the government then ignore that you are indeed changing the facts.
Click to expand...
As if thousands of greenhouses growing millions of pounds of vegetables with them every month around the world somehow isn't enough for you?

You're making the average marijuana grower look like an idiot. You babble about 'facts' when it is abundantly clear you don't have yours straight.

Do us a favor and actually try to learn something. Until you do, kindly shut up, before someone else who is too lazy to do their homework believes a single solitary word you spew.
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
just thought Id throw my two cents in,If its allowed I see every other ass hole can,
props to you first of all on tackling this,Its a pile of work,I know a thing or two about heating and air,
Just to cool 30K watts Just the watts of the lamps will take 8.5 tons of cooling,
a geothermal heat pump system is the cheapest to operate by far concerning electrical costs,it is however the most expensive to install,the outdoor loop as it is called can be buried in the ground either horizontal or vertical ,they can also be dropped into the bottom of a pond,
a package unit would be the cheapest to install,i wish I knew more about your climate,but its all good I don't want to know,
a outdoor unit with a economizer, a economizer will mix the outdoor air with indoor air,causing the compressor to not have to run as much saving energy,lots of it too,someone mentioned not using outdoor air because of problems,these economizers have filters,i think you would want to upgrade the filters and also install cheap UV lights that kill pollen and bacteria,you can run duct up on the outside of the building to each section with control dampers for each section,humidifiers for dry winter months are easy to install in the duct work, along with automatic smoke detectors they should be needed according to most codes in the duct work wired to alarms and shuts the system down at the same time,
The duct work would run along the ceiling with branch runs pointing down into the plants distributing the air evenly under a constant even pressure ,This will save on the amount of fans that are needed in the room,
of course sealing and insulating the building will make temps easier to control and a lot cheaper on the power bill,
A 15 ton system will move 6000 CFM of air,for thirty lamps that would be 200 cfm per light,(wouldn't get the full 6000)
with a velocity of almost 600 fpm on a 8 inch hood,
it would change the air over in a 5x5x5 area about one and half times per min,
im not sure what your local codes are but you could set up a dry well and run waste water to it so long as its not human waste,a dry well is just hole in the ground filled with gravel and water drained to it,you can put dirt back over it and plant grass on it if you want,Also could run waste water through RO and reuse it
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
woke up this morning...my neck is killing me from all the overhead work!! Like seriously.

STILL waiting on our fucking electrical service review. The kicked us to the back of the line and requested to know "how much load per panel". Fucking 2 minute phone call would ave answered that question.

Aerospace inspection... yikes!! Now that will raise some eyebrows!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
max420thc said:
just thought Id throw my two cents in,If its allowed I see every other ass hole can,
props to you first of all on tackling this,Its a pile of work,I know a thing or two about heating and air,
Just to cool 30K watts Just the watts of the lamps will take 8.5 tons of cooling,
a geothermal heat pump system is the cheapest to operate by far concerning electrical costs,it is however the most expensive to install,the outdoor loop as it is called can be buried in the ground either horizontal or vertical ,they can also be dropped into the bottom of a pond,
a package unit would be the cheapest to install,i wish I knew more about your climate,but its all good I don't want to know,
a outdoor unit with a economizer, a economizer will mix the outdoor air with indoor air,causing the compressor to not have to run as much saving energy,lots of it too,someone mentioned not using outdoor air because of problems,these economizers have filters,i think you would want to upgrade the filters and also install cheap UV lights that kill pollen and bacteria,you can run duct up on the outside of the building to each section with control dampers for each section,humidifiers for dry winter months are easy to install in the duct work, along with automatic smoke detectors they should be needed according to most codes in the duct work wired to alarms and shuts the system down at the same time,
The duct work would run along the ceiling with branch runs pointing down into the plants distributing the air evenly under a constant even pressure ,This will save on the amount of fans that are needed in the room,
of course sealing and insulating the building will make temps easier to control and a lot cheaper on the power bill,
A 15 ton system will move 6000 CFM of air,for thirty lamps that would be 200 cfm per light,(wouldn't get the full 6000)
with a velocity of almost 600 fpm on a 8 inch hood,
it would change the air over in a 5x5x5 area about one and half times per min,
im not sure what your local codes are but you could set up a dry well and run waste water to it so long as its not human waste,a dry well is just hole in the ground filled with gravel and water drained to it,you can put dirt back over it and plant grass on it if you want,Also could run waste water through RO and reuse it
Click to expand...
Humidification is never a problem in a well run growroom, it's dehuey that takes all the effort... which leads to the next point, which is using some of that waste heat to run heaters in the growrooms in order to dehuey at night. The outdoor circuit might find its way thru a hot tub, too- you know, for all those aches and pains that come from running a first class growing facility...

Love the rest of your tips!
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Humidification is never a problem in a well run growroom, it's dehuey that takes all the effort... which leads to the next point, which is using some of that waste heat to run heaters in the growrooms in order to dehuey at night. The outdoor circuit might find its way thru a hot tub, too- you know, for all those aches and pains that come from running a first class growing facility...

Love the rest of your tips!
Click to expand...
Im not sure of the climate of the area he is in is at,for example Arizona dry hot heat .Or protland area where its a pretty stable climate all year around with a constant rain fall, or another climate,
commercial dehumidifiers are a different beast.,
because both the evaporator and condenser coil run at the same time their is no heat gain,the first coil or the evaporator coil is cold and condensates moisture out of the air,the moisture sticks to it and is drained away.the second coil the air goes through is the condensing coil that reheats the air,
many people I know who grow in basements in the winter time get really dry,one guy gets so dry he cant even measure it on a hygrometer,
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
The AC units will take care of the dehu needs.

Three 5 ton 16 seer units.

People fail to realize that the future of weed growing is uncertain. Uncertain enough that spending cash on ground loops and geothermal units.

Also the economize is a great idea..except we have a sealed room and are generating co2 so to pump all that out of the air is pretty foolish.

Put it this way, my utility bill.. whether it's 4,5, or 7k is the LEAST of my worries
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
max420thc said:
Im not sure of the climate of the area he is in is at,for example Arizona dry hot heat .Or protland area where its a pretty stable climate all year around with a constant rain fall, or another climate,
commercial dehumidifiers are a different beast.,
because both the evaporator and condenser coil run at the same time their is no heat gain,the first coil or the evaporator coil is cold and condensates moisture out of the air,the moisture sticks to it and is drained away.the second coil the air goes through is the condensing coil that reheats the air,
many people I know who grow in basements in the winter time get really dry,one guy gets so dry he cant even measure it on a hygrometer,
Click to expand...
Heat pumps make cold water, which is then passed through an air handler to both cool and dehuey the air in one pass, no additional dehuey equipment required- as long as the water temps are kept far enough below dewpoint.

Remember that the plants themselves are the best humidifiers going, and running a big bunch of rapidly growing trees in a small space will require anything BUT additional humidity!

Colorado has more variable temperatures than AZ, but it's nearly as dry.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
legallyflying said:
The AC units will take care of the dehu needs.

Three 5 ton 16 seer units.

People fail to realize that the future of weed growing is uncertain. Uncertain enough that spending cash on ground loops and geothermal units.

Also the economize is a great idea..except we have a sealed room and are generating co2 so to pump all that out of the air is pretty foolish.

Put it this way, my utility bill.. whether it's 4,5, or 7k is the LEAST of my worries
Click to expand...
True that. Heat pumps make more sense in home situations where they can become the HVAC plant for the house, whether growing is profitable in the future or not.
 
Alienwidow

Alienwidow

Well-Known Member
legallyflying said:
The AC units will take care of the dehu needs.

Three 5 ton 16 seer units.

People fail to realize that the future of weed growing is uncertain. Uncertain enough that spending cash on ground loops and geothermal units.

Also the economize is a great idea..except we have a sealed room and are generating co2 so to pump all that out of the air is pretty foolish.

Put it this way, my utility bill.. whether it's 4,5, or 7k is the LEAST of my worries
Click to expand...
three five tons won't handle your de hu needs.(are they all in that room pictured?) not even close if you want to run over a couple years there with separate rooms if the RH is like mine. well maybe but let me know if you have mold issues. id give em six months before you see problems unless you can keep fresh air around the whole setup. if you seal it allll in you might be feeding badies. gotta like a little filtered air flow, you've seen ac units hold a 40% rh in big rooms?....wo help? I've never. bring on the gravity fed outlets off 70 pts and purge pumps on totes. sealedc room and beasters with no dehu scares this cawbouy. hope yours is hitting the mark with no condensate on the top corners of the walls.
 
legallyflying

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
Alien. We have a 20k sealed flower room at another location and run three mini splits. They literally pull about 10 gallons of water out of the air a night. The humidity sits around 40% it spikes to about 55 at lights out but honestly we have a big twin fan 200 pint dehumidifier and right now it's not even plugged in!!!

I had a 10k room in the garage that I never added water to the rez the entire run. The AC condensate just kept topping of the rez.

W4 should be good as our two flip rooms are connected by four 12" max can fans. That's 6,000 cfm flowing between the rooms so Temps and humidity should be stable between the two.

Ypu know how this shit works though, you can do all the math but until you fire things up you just don't know.
 
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