lime green and curling up leaves, burned edges

Hello!

This is my very first post here so please bear with me. I'm growing 6 GHS Church plants under a 600W hps light, the plants are one week into flowering (almost 6 weeks old) and the leaves are curling up, and two of the plants are becoming very very light green, lime-like color. I repotted them 2 days ago in 13 litre pots (because they were all a little root-bound.) Also, some of the leaves have burned edges, not much, but still.

The problem is not new, and I wanted to try everything before coming here, but nothing helped. I thought the curling was due to low humidity in the room (30-35%), or because the fan was blowing directly into them. I use only organic fertilizer, and never used full-strenght dosage. After repoting them 2 days ago I also watered them, and I noticed little white bugs on one of the trays. They were really small, like 0.5mm or even less. They were jumping around and before I could get a decent pic, they were gone.

Otherwise the plants look ok, they are 40 to 50 cm tall and super-bushy, growth seems normal. Room temperature is between 24 and 30°C, humidity from 40-60%, pH of soil is around 5.7. Some of my friends who are also growers think that my plants have trouble dealing with the heat, but the leaves were curling even when temps were around 21° and never exeeded 25°C.

I am a noob at indoor growing, so please have some patiece. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

Excuse me for my imperfect english, I will improve

Well for starters 30C is a little high for your flowering. How far is your HPS from the plants and what kind of air flow do you have? Also pictures would really help to diagnose this and pretty much any plant issue you could have.

what is the pH of your nutrient solution and fresh water?

Well I havent really tested nutrient solution pH, but fresh water pH is 6.5.

I have a 1.2x1.2x2m box and a cooltubed 600W with a 260cfm(450m3/h) fan for exhaust.

Well that could be your problem for starters, you could be locking nutrients out. Test your nutrient solutions PH before feeding the plants and I recommend 6.2-6.8 PH in soil.

lahadaextranjera said:

I use only organic fertilizer, and never used full-strenght dosage. After repoting them 2 days ago I also watered them,

You are not watering correctly and the roots are starved of oxygen. If u just transplanted then how would it need water 2 days later. You want the roots to grow down in seach of moisture. When u transplant u don't need nutes for the first week or so...

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I'm sorry, what I meant was that I always use organic fertilizers, no chemicals...I dont use them all the time, I add them to water every second or third watering, and never full strenght.I use very little fert because I'm still learning.

So here are the pics as promised. The first 3 pics are from one plant, the second 2 are from another. Please help me with these troublemakers

bump anyone?

anyone solved this?
i'm new here, and i seem to have the same problem as in the first three pics in one of my three plants. the remaining two have no problem at all so far.
in case you -giraudo!- didn't figure it out, it seems like you had two different problems on each one. one is curling up the other one has spots and curls down.
still beginning my search for the solution to the curl up (like in the three first pics above), but any help would be much appreciated. thanx

I'm having like the exact same problem and noone will respond to my posts...someone please help lol

giraudo said:

Well I havent really tested nutrient solution pH, but fresh water pH is 6.5.

I have a 1.2x1.2x2m box and a cooltubed 600W with a 260cfm(450m3/h) fan for exhaust.

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Ph is going to most likely be your problem, Starting with a PH of 6.5 and adding nutes is most likely bringing it done and your experiencing lockout, that is why you are showing multiple deficiencies, test your soil Ph, you can get a kit at Home depot or lowes for soil. They cost about $2 Us. If your PH is low, buy some dolomite lime scratch the surface of the soil to work in the top layer and then water the rest of the way in. Problem will most like be resolved

It looks to me to be a combination of moisture and maybe some light/heat stress. Are those clay pots? I have not used clay pots indoors for a long time. They tend to hold water longer so may want to be watered less frequently, and deep, even to the point of poking a bamboo hole down about 8 inches to encourage the penetration. IF You just transplanted, watering straight off the transfer probably shocked them a bit. You can go chase ph if you want but weed plants are pretty ph tolerant. It still would be a good idea to check it so you know. If you used some sort of potting mix then you are probably in the ball park.

Lives2Smoke said:

I'm having like the exact same problem and noone will respond to my posts...someone please help lol

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It is 100% a over nute or buildup prob. Not that you have too much... but that it's not used fast as its applied, and it gathers, dropping ph horribly. Esp when you have a soil like ocean forest that does not have buffers that last really long. I've seen the end of the season basically just plummet, and it looks like all sorts of deficiencies. If it ever looks like multiple deficiencies at once, chances are it is a ph problem.

The mix there really seems like ph slid too low from lack of ph buffers (or not enough), leading to yellowing leaves first, then spots, then curling, n mimicked other deficiencies or even nutrient burn. It is not real nute burn tho.. its Bc of K locked out (spots), which is from the (yellowing) Ca lockout. N it's a big domino effect that just gets worse and worse as you combat one problem rather than them all.

Ph is tricky, and there's a TON of bs advice out there regarding it. You have a rough time ahead as you deal w low ph. Bc roots are established and may not allow access w dolomite. Hydrated lime is dangerous to work with, but may work better as a fix at the end of the season. Mainly bc it's water soluble. Flushing will not help, besides allowing the plant to eat the food more often than letting it dry out (dangerous when ph is very acidic and can uptake Al and other nutes to toxic levels more quickly). The reason is bc the flush keeps soil wet, and wet soil doesn't change ph very much at all. You also get yellowing from the acidity lockout and the over watering if flushed. Its not something that will pull the acidity outta the soil unless you have low ph due to a very high salt buildup. Even then, flushing is best for lowering nutes levels, not to lower ph. For this you need a buffer of some kind. Its also best applied when dry or semi dry soil.

Anyway, best bet is, if possible, either careful xplant, or dig up around the roots carefully, and mix dolomite (very fine) in the dry ish soil. If you cannot access the soil underneath bc of roots, no worries. Try a hf tbsp of hydrated/fast/rapid lime to 1 gallon warm water. The warm water will help dissolve some things in the soil to leach out, while also getting the lime deep in the soil. That's the key. If it doesn't get deep, u can establish a higher ph root zone, and a lower, very acidic ph bottom root zone. This will show more probs than just one plant w a solid, slightly too acidic ph. The dual zone effs w things. That's y trying to grow a soil pot while running the runoff roots into a "hydro" system underneath does not work out, even tho runoff roots will grow like crazy in stagnant runoff water alone (like a catch tray). It may seem nice, but the plant is not going to like the dual zones of ph, and one set of roots will eat, the other will have probs. Just something I experimented with a while ago.. so I thought I'd give advice. Hppefully it will help ppl who are freaking out searching online for ph problem solutions. I know it's scary as hell to see everything dying at once, but it's best to take a breath, try think clearly and establish a solid plan to remedy the problem. If it's multiple problems, 99% of the time Its due to ph probs. 1% is the freak issues that come from an odd feeding schedule, setup or environment.


Hope it helps somebody out there. Sorry I couldn't find this when u had your probs. There's always next time..

Horticulture is a life long learning process. It never hurts to read and try new advice.

Without a pic of the plant everybody is just pissing in the wind here.

*BUDS said:

Without a pic of the plant everybody is just pissing in the wind here.

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Not completely. Multiple symptoms, is generally synonymous with ph problems. Salt buildup, over or under watering, etc... all changes the ph in a soil grow. I just wanted to offer the perspective bc I've dealt with those type problems in controlled environments (to test and see if ph should be changed with dry or wet conditions to slide). Wet soil does not change ph that easily. Usually that would require chemicals added, and its much easier to just water normally. Flushing doesn't really help low ph issues though, so I thought I'd include some info for future viewers, as I mentioned. Its more of a, "just went thru this so I'll share the results". Bc too many ppl go asking questions about multiple deficiencies (many tine's faux nute burn), yet they get 20 different "solutions". As I mentioned, 99% of the time, multiple deficiencies is indicative of ph problems being the root problem. There are freak occurrences where it may not be the root cause... But more often than naught, pictures are posted and they all have the same issue... ph. Its a pretty broad subject, so I'm just trying to lead them to the correct area to look for answers.

And I actually went thru something very similar w an example journal that I'll b posting soon. 3 diff strains with 3 diff catalysts to trigger ph problems, with simple solutions based on how far into the cycle they are.

I just had to add the original post bc I read so much about ph problems and these new growers are looking to these websites to clarify... I just felt bad that it's such confusing mixes of advice. Some work, others don't. And the person usually goes thru that grow at a major disadvantage. So I've been posting on some stuff that I'm currently in the works of making a guide for. For me, pics aren't really necessary if the description is sufficient. Single probs Get handled thru reg deficiency help, but multiple deficiencies making the plant look like it's dying? That's almost always a ph problem. The pics only help tell you if it's too alkaline too acidic from what I've seen. Many times pics just introduce new and unsound info based on guesses. Ppl see it and they think, oh I read about that or I seen that, not taking the story part into full consideration. When deficiencies combine though, they do not look exactly like the leaf troubleshooters examples and that leads to false ID and solutions for that particular grow.

Most times when I'd search for old threads look for answers, I'd get more confused and I'd mess one thing or another up. Nowadays, I take a basic gist of what's said, cross reference it to build credibility, and then plan a solution based on that info if it pans out. So, I really don't find it much more beneficial to see the pics. Most times you can look at the story and put yourself in their shoes, to consider where they went wrong, then advise from that point. Instead, many ppl see the story how they want to see it, and they look solely at pics. Pics also being susceptible to incorrect color patterns, light shifts and other misleading and unintentional errors. Picking a story apart and considering, "where would I have made a mistake as a newer grower", seems to help complete the picture for me. I mean, if guides can be made to describe the usual things these plants do, then I feel a story is sufficient enough to gain info to help fix the problem. After all, we all have a green thumb fever for one type of plant, so we can all share our own exp and advice, to possibly help a future grower searching w/ similar probs, which was again, my primary reasoning for posting on an old post.

When I started, I used to hate getting 20 diff answers and I'd follow some only to have things get progressively worse at times bc it was so specifically tailored... bit not to my exact problem. Ph is a broad category, I'm just trying to point ppl in the direction of learning more about it when they have multiple deficiencies.

I do apologize though. I'm not trying to sound like a dick or anything. Its just something to try helping future growers who stumble on the pages.